THE  UNIVERSITY 


OF  ILLINOIS 


This  beai 
a basin  sqo 
this’6'ur^J( 
^ ©lad  m rob' 
^^teiAeilvef,  ] 
emeralds  ii 
silvery  lake 
to  meet  the 
mirror,  fra 
seem  to  cai 
and  sunset 
the  hand  o 
bloody  bat 
lovelines,  t 
is  irresista 


LIBRARY 


From  the  collection  of 
Julius  Doerner,  Chicago 
Purchased,  1913. 

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lality 


. Stands  at  the  head  of  thex^afe' 

It  was  built  and  furnished  in  1869.  It  cannot  be  surpassed  by  any  Water- 
ing Place  Hotel  in  this  country.  It  has  accommodations  lor  nine  hundred 
persons.  The  Hotel  has  one  hundred  and  fifty  rooms  en  suite,  suitable  tor 
families  and  parties.  Every  room  is  furnished  with  gas  and  a bell. 

JL  First-Class  Orchestra 

Has  been  engaged  for  the  season.  The  Stables  have  accommodations  for 
One  Hundred  Horses. 

STEAM  AND  SAIL  YACHTS 

And  small  Row  Boats  to  be  had  on  inquiry  at  the  ofiBce.  To  Families  and 
Parties  Special  Terms  will  be  made.  Apply  until  June  1st,  to  “The  Ar- 
lington/’ Washington,  H.  C. 

T.  Roessle  & Son, 

Owners  and  Proprietors. 


/ 


Hither 
Chicago, 
scenery  i 
pastures  gi 
west.  He 
streams,  nc 
various  ant 
Beyond  ( 
having  mor 
interest,  th; 
nre  bent,  oi 
the  wilds  o 
woods  and 
country  of  j 
In  1849,  t 
In  that  year 
portion  of  I] 
afterwards  I 
insurmounta 
opened  for  b 
time  the  Cl 
unto  themsei 
him  and  oth< 
sand  miles  oi 
extend  in  all 
west  of  Chicc 
the  country 
Watertown,  ' 
Marquette;  v 
and  Minneapt 
Owatonna,  St 
(Dakota)  is  r 
Elgin  and  Rot 
and  the  counti 
through  Dixo 
Grand  Junctic 


The  person  charg^ing-  this  material  is  re- 
sponsible for  its  return  to  the  library  from 
which  it  was  withdrawn  on  or  before  the 
Latest  Date  stamped  below. 

Theft,  mutilation,  and  underlining  of  books  are  reasons 
for  disciplinary  action  and  may  result  in  dismissal  from 
the  University. 

To  renew  call  Telephone  Center,  333-8400 

UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS  LIBRARY  AT  URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


L161— 0-1096 


^ 

Lake  George, 

^ 


Tliis  beautiful  Lake  stands  unrivalled  as  a summer  resort.  Nestling  in 
a basin  sqoop^  out  of  one  of  the  most  lovely  spots  upon  the  surface  of 
this'our^lobeLh^i^^ed  in  by  mountains,  meadows,  x)lains  and  valleys; 
©lad  in  roi^es  cferegal,  ever-varying  splendor;  resting  like  a sheet  ol  mol- 
'^tenVsllvei’,  high  above  the  sea  level ; dotted  with  fairy  isles  that  glitter  like 
emeralds  in  the  summer  sunlight,  and  seem  to  float  upon  the  bosom  of  this 
silvery  lake ; its  translucent  waters  send  up  pictures  from  its  lowest  depths 
to  meet  the  charming  scenes  that  he  reflected  on  the  borders  of  this  lovely 
mirror,  framed  and  set  in  nature’s  choicest  brilliants ; the  very  air  and  sky 
seem  to  catch  the  inspiration  of  the  wondrous  scenes,  and  sunrise,  noon 
and  sunset  alike  are  beautiful.  No  wonder  the  red  man  sought  death  at 
the  hand  of  the  pale  face  rather  than  be  driven  from  this  his  Eden,  or  that 
bloody  battles  have  disturbed  this  now  tranquil  picture  of  transcendent 
lovelines,  towards  whose  enchanted  borders  the  traveller  in  this  locality 
is  irresi stably  drawn. 


The  above  named  magnificent  Hotel 

. Stands  at  the  Sead  of  the  Lake, 

It  was  built  and  furnished  in  1869.  It  cannot  be  surpassed  by  any  Water- 
ing Place  Hotel  in  this  country.  It  has  accommodations  lor  nine  hundred 
persons.  The  Hotel  has  one  hundred  and  fifty  rooms  en  suite,  suitabletor 
families  and  parties.  Every  room  is  furnished  with  gas  and  a bell. 

A First-Class  Orchestra 

■ *» 

Has  been  engaged  for  the  season.  The  Stables  have  accommodations  for 
One  Hundred  Horses. 

STEAM  AND  SAIL  YACHTS 

And  small  Row  Boats  to  be  had  on  inquiry  at  the  olBce.  To  Families  and 
Parties  Special  Terms  will  be  made.  Apply  until  June  1st,  to  “The  Ar- 
lington,” Washington,  D.  C. 

T.  Roessle  & Son, 

Owners  and  Proprietors. 


i-i  P] 


N ORTH-W: 


REAT  JNORTH-^V  EST. 


BEYOND  CHICAGO. 


Hitherto  we  have  said  but  little  about  the  railways  or  the  country  beyond 
Chicago.  Many  of  our  readers  have  “ worn  out,”  by  constant  visits,  much  of  the 
scenery  and  tourists’  resorts  of  the  East,  and  are  looking  for  “ forests  new  and 
pastures  green  ” elsewhere.  We  would  invite  them  to  look  to  the  great  North- 
west. Here  they  can  find  lakes  and  hills,  mountains  and  valleys,  woods  and 
streams,  new,  and  untrod  by  the  Eastern  tourist.  To  get  to  Chicago,  you  have 
various  and  good  routes. 

Beyond  Chicago,  we  w'ouldname  the  great  North-Western  Railway,  as  a route 
having  more  terminal  points,  more  connecting  lines,  and  reaching  more  points  of 
interest,  than  any  other ; and  it  may-be  taken,  should  you  be  on  business  or  pleas- 
ure bent,  or  should  you  desire  to  reach  Denver,  and  the  mountains  of  Colorado, 
the  wilds  of  Idaho  and  Montana,  or  the  Pacific  slope,  or  north-westwardly  the 
woods  and  streams  and  lakes  of  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  or  the  Lake  Superior 
country  of  Northern  Michigan. 

In  1849,  there  was  not  a mile  of  completed  railroad  in  the  vicinity  of  Chicago. 
In  that  year,  W.  B.  Ogden  was  endeavoring  to  interest  the  people  in  the  northern 
portion  of  Illinois  to  subscribe  money  to  build  a tramway  along  the  route  ot  what 
afterwards  became  the  Galena  and  Chicago  Union  Railroad.  Through  almost 
insurmountable  difficulties  the  venture  was  finally  accomplished,  and  the  road 
opened  for  business.  From  that  small  beginning  great  results  have  grown.  In 
time  the  Chicago  and  North-Western  Railway  Company  was  formed,  and  took 
unto  themselves  the  first  effort  of  Mr.  Ogden,  and  also  other  lines  projected  by 
him  and  others.  This  great  corporation  now  owns  and  operates  over  two  thou- 
sand miles  of  road,  that,  radiating  from  Chicago  like  the  fingers  in  a man’s  hand, 
extend  in  all  directions,  and  cover  about  all  of  the  country  ndi-th,  north-west,  and 
west  of  Chicago.  With  one  branch  it  reaches  Racine,  Kenosha,  Milwaukee,  and 
the  country  north  thereof;  with  another  line  it  pushes  through  Janesville 
Watertown,  Oshkosh,  Fond  du  Lac,  Green  Bay,  Escanaba,  to  Negaunee  and 
Marquette;  with  another  line  it  passes  through  Madison,  Elroy,  and  for  St.  Paul 
and  Minneapolis;  branching  westward  from  Elroy,  it  runs  to  and  through  Winona, 
Owatonna,  St.  Peter,  Mankato,  New  Ulm,  and  stops  not  until  Lake  Kampeska 
(Dakota)  is  reached ; another  line  starts  from  Chicago,  and  continues  through 
Elgin  and  Rockford  to  Freeport,  and  connects  for  Warren,  Galena,  and  Dubuque, 
and  the  country  beyond.  Still  another  line  runs  almost  due  westward,  and  passes 
through  Dixon,  Sterling,  Fultpn,  Clinton  (lo.),  Cedar  Rapids,  Marshalltown, 
Grand  Junction,  Missouri  Valley  Junction,  to  Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha.  This 


s the  “ Great  Trans-Continental  Route,”  and  the  pioneer  overland  line  for 
Nebraska,  Colorado  Utah,  Idaho,  Montana,  Nevada,  California,  and  the  Pacific 
Coast.  It  runs  through  the  garden  of  Illinois  and  Iowa,  and  is  the  shortest  and 
quickest  route  for  Omaha,  Lincoln,  and  other  points  in  Nebraska,  and  for 
Cheyenne,  Denver,  Salt  Lake  City,  Virginia  City,  Carson,  Sacramento,  San 
Francisco,  and  all  other  points  west  of  the  Missouri  River. 

See,  then,  what  one  company  can  do  for  you.  If  you  want  to  go  to  Milwaukee, 
Fond  du  Lac,  Manitowoc,  Sheboygan,  Janesville,  Watertown,  Oshkosh,  De  Pere, 
Green  Bay,  Ripon,  Madison,  Baraboo,  Eau  Claire,  Hudson,  Stillwater,  St.  Paul, 
Minneapolis,  Duluth,  Breckenridge,  Morehead,  Fort  Garry,  Winona,  Owatonna, 
New  Ulm,  Freeport,  Warren,  Plattville,  Galena,  Dubuque,  Waterloo,  Fort 
Dodge,  Sioux  City,  Yankton,  Council  Bluffs,  Omaha,  Lincoln,  Denver,  Salt  Lake 
City,  Sacramento,  San  Francisco,  ora  hundred  other  northern,  north-western,  or 
western  points,  this  great  line  affords  the  amplest  accommodations.  The  track  is 
ofthe  best  steel  rail,  and  is  well  ballasted,  and  as  free  from  dust  as  a road  can  be 
made.  The  bridges  are  strong  and  durable ; and  all  the  appointments  are  first- 
class  in  every  respect.  The  trains  that  run  over  this  route  are  made  up  of  elegant 
new  Pullman  palace  drawing-room  and  sleeping  coaches  built  expressly  for  this 
line;  luxurious,  well  lighted,  and  well-ventilated  day-coaches,  and  pleasant 
lounging  and  smoking  cars,  all  built  by  this  company  in  their  own  shops.  The 
cars  are  all  equipped  with  the  celebrated  Miller  safety  platform,  and  patent 
buffers  and  couplings,  Westinghouse  safety  air  brakes,  and  every  other  appliancy 
that  has  been  devised  for  the  safety  of  passenger-trains.  All  trains  are  run  by 
telegraph,  and  are  so  regularly  on  time  that  one  could  safely  set  his  watch  by 
their  arrivals  or  departures.  It  is  acknowledged  by  the  travelling  public  to  be  the 
popular  line  for  all  points  in  Northern  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  Northern 
Michigan,  Dakota,  Western  Iowa,  Nebraska,  Wyoming,  Colorado,  Utah,  Mon- 
taiia,  Idaho,  Nevada,  California,  and  the  Pacific  slope. 

The  Devil’s  Lake  country  around  Baraboo  (171  miles  from  Chicago),  the 
beautiful  lake  country  around  Madison  (140  miles  from  Chicago),  Sparta  (a 
celebrated  magnetic-spring  resort),  Escanaba,  Fond  du  Lac,  Green  Lake,  Elk- 
hart Lake,  Marquette,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis,  the  Falls  of  Minnehaha,  Lakes 
Calhoun,  Harriett,  and  Minnetonkee,  White  Bear  Lake,  Lake  Como,  and  many 
other  points  on  this  route,  are  well  worth  visiting.  Good  Hotels,  and  pleasant 
boarding  and  farm  houses,  abonnd ; near  which  you  can  find  fishing,  sailing, 
boating,  and  bathing  to  your  heart’s  content.  Lake  Geneva,  the  gem  of  Western 
lakes,  is  also  on  this  line ; and  at  its  head  is  the  town  of  that  name,  that  has 
been  appropriately  named  “The  Saratoga  of  the  West.”  The  Chicago  and 
North-Western  each  year  places  on  sale  excursion -tickets  at  cheap  rates  to  all  of 
its  summer  resorts  in  the  North-west,  and  to  Denver  and  other  points  in  Colorado. 
George  L.  Harrison,  at  5 State  Street,  Boston  is  the  New  England  Agent 
of  this  great  Line  and  will  at  all  times  be  pleased  to  give  full  information  about 
its  routes,  etc. 


MARVIN  HUGHITT, 


General  Superintendent, 
Chicago. 


W.  H.  STENNETT, 

GenH  Passenger  Agent, 
Chicago. 


Strant^ers  and  Citizens  are  Cordially  Invited 

TO  VISIT  TMK  STORK  OF 

Bradford  & Anthony, 

374  Washington  St.  (opposite  Bromfield  St.,)  Boston, 

Importers,  Wholesale  and  Retail  Dealers  in 

dutlefy, 

SKATES,  AND  FANCY  HARDWARE. 

Throughout  this  establishment,  from  basement  to  roof,  are  to  be  seen  many  novel 
and  useful  articles.  Table  Cutlery— of  latest  styles — finest  finish  and  servica- 
ble  quality.  Pocket-Knives — of  all  the  noted  makers  in  every  style.  Fancy 
KNives.  Scissors — elegantly  finished — all  sizes  and  forms — also  in  Sets  and 
Cases.  Razors,  Dressing  Cases,  Travelling  Cases,  Sportsmen’s  Knives. 
Traveller’s  Articles— such  as  Luncheon  Baskets,  Flasks,  Pocket  Stoves, 
Telescopes,  Pocket  Compasses.  &c.,  &c.  Fancy  Hardware  in  endless  variety. 
Small  Steel  Wares.  Anglers  will  find  everything  for  fishing,  of  the  most 
reliable  quality,  of  all  kinds  and  styles.  Rods  made  of  Split  Bamboo,  Green- 
heart,  Lancewood,  &c.  Reels  of  Aluminium,  Oreide,  Ebonite,  &c.  Artificial 
Flies  for  all  waters,  own  patterns  and  dressing ; special  Flies  made  to  order. 
Everything  that  is  new  and  choice  in  the  way  of  Fishing-Tackle. 

Bradford  & Anthony  ara  Agents  for  the  United  States  for  the  Patent  Acme  Skates, 
the  best  self-fastening  Skates  made,  and  have  always  a full  assortment  of  the  best 
and  latest  styles  of  Skates  in  the  market. 


BOSTON  traveller. 

The  Family  Newspaper.  ^ 

DAILY,  SEMI-WEEKLY  AND  WEEKLY. 


EVENING-  TRAVELLER, 

[ESTAliLISIIED  1845.] 

'f lie  5^olio  4^vei]ir\g Paper  ip  Xew3i<pglki)d. 

$9,00  per  annnin,  including  Postage. 

BOSTON  (vyfEEKLv)  TRAVELLER, 

[Established  1824.] 

$4.00  per  annum  in  advance. 

AMERICAN  (weekly)  TRAVELLER, 

[Established  1838.] 

$2.00  per  annum  in  advance. 


WOETHINGTON,  FLANDERS  & CO.,  Traveller  Building,  Boston. 


THE  BOSTON 

COMMERCIAL  BULLETIN. 

The  Best  Paper  of  the  kind  in  the  Country, 

The  only  paper  that  prints  the 

MANUFACTURING  NEWS 

of  the  United  States,  and  the 

BUSINESS  CHANGES  in  the  UNITED  STATES. 

INCLUDING 

New  Partnerships,  Dissolutions,  Failures,  and  Suspensions. 

ALSO, 

Market  Reports,  Money  Artioles,  Business  Items,  Gossip  of  Trade,  Railroad  and 
Zninrance  Matters, 

ORIGINAL  SKETCHES 

By  the  Best  American  Authors. 

Also,  the  celebrated 

ST^IOIB  OIF  TjZIFE  OOLTJAZIT 

Of  Original  Wit  and  Humor. 

Terms:  Four  Dollars  a Year. 

The  Commercial  Bulletin  has  the  largest  circulation  of 
any  Paper  of  its  class  in  the  United  States. 

Office:  Bulletin  Building,  275  Washington  Street, 

Opposite  Water  Street^  ...  BOSTON. 

CURTIS  GUILD  & CO.,  Proprs. 


THE  STANDARD  OF  THE  WORLD. 


2 

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o 

o 


NO 

CO 

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Q> 


The  Most  Convenient 


HIGHEST  PRIZES  AT  PARIS  IN  1857;  VIENNA,  MONTREAL, 
1873;  PHILADELPHIA,  1874. 

In  every  respect  worthy  of  the  most  implicit  confidence,  and  in  their  correct- 
ness of  Principle,  in  their  Accuracy  of  Adjustment,  in  their  Durability,  and  in 
their  convenient  Adaptability  to  every  business  need,  they  are 

UNEQUALLED. 


FAIRBANKS’ 

loslal  lackase  |cal»; 

Designed  for  and  adopted  by  the  UNITED  STATES  GOVERNMENT.  Also, 


Miles’  Patent  Alarm  Safety  Money  Drawer. 

WAREHOUSES  : 

2 Milk  St.,  Old  South  Block,  Boston, 

FAIRBANKS,  BROWN  & CO. 

311  Broadway,  - - - New  York, 

FAIRBANKS  & CO. 


The  Most  Durable, 


WHITE  MOUN'l'AIN  RANGE,  GENERAL  VIEW. 


FAXON’S 


OF 


SUMMER  TRAVEL, 

TO  THE 

LAKES,  SPRINGS  AND  MOUNTAINS 


OF 

NEW  ENGLAND  AND  NEW  YORK. 


BY  EDWARD  S.  SEARS. 


Routes  to  New  York,  Long  Island  Sound,  the  Hudson  River 
THE  Hoosac  Tunnel  and  Saratoga.  Lakes  George, 
Champlain,  Winnepiseogee  and  Memphrejiagog. 

The  AVhite  Mountains,  and  the  Adiron- 
dacks.  Niagara,  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  iiiE  Saguenay,  etc.,  etc. 


:N"EiW  EDITIOIM. 


BOSTON: 

PUBLISHED  BY  CHARLES  A.  FAXON, 
No.  228  Washington  Street. 
(FOKMEllLY  82.) 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1875,  by 
C.  A.  FAXON, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


,7.  B.  Batchelder  & Co.,  Printers,  319  Washington  St.,  Boston. 


^17.4 


CHAPTER  /. 

Steamboat  Routes  to  New  York.  - Stonington  Line; 
Providence;  Steamer  Rhode  Island;  Approach  to  New 
York;  The  Fall  River  Route ; Newport;  Norwich  Line; 
Norwich ; Shore  Line  Rome  to  New  York ; New  Haven ; 
Springfield  Route  to  New  York;  Hartford  and  the  Con- 
necticut  River. 

CHAPTER  If. 

Up  the  Hudson  River  to  Albany.  — Saratoga ; The  Pali- 
sades; Highlands;  West  Point;  Newburgh;  Fishkill; 
Poughkeepsie;  Hudson  City;  Albany;  other  Routes  to 
Saratoga;  Fitchburg.  Rutland  and  Saratoga  Line ; Fitch- 
burg; Mount  Monadnock ; Bellows  Falls ; Ludlow;  Rut- 
land ; Rutland  to  Saratoga ; Boston  and  Albany  Route ; 
Worcester;  Springfield;  Pittsfield  to  Albany. 

CHAPTER  in. 

The  Hoosac  Tunnel  Route  to  Saratoga.  — Fitchburg - 
Gardiner;  Athol;  Orange;  Brattleboro’ ; Greenfield; 
Hoosac  Tunnel  and  its  History;  North  Adams  to  Troy. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Saratoga  and  its  Attractions.  — Congress  Park;  Con- 
gress, Columbian,  Empire,  Star,  Pavilion,  Hathorn 
and  Geyser  Springs ; Analysis  of  the  Waters ; Bottling 
the  Waters;  United  States,  Grand  Union,  Congress  and 


I 

1 


53 


s'9 


CONTENTS. 


Columbian  Hotels ; The  Holden  and  Waverlj  Houses ; 
Strong’s  Institute;  Social  Life  in  Saratoga;  Schroon 
Lake ; The  Route  to  Lake  George. 

CHAPTER  V.  . 

Lake  George  and  its  Beauties. — The  Fort  William 
Henry  Hotel;  Trip  down  the  Lake;  History  of  Lake 
George ; Ticonderoga. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Down  Lake  Champlain.  — Crown  Point ; Burlington  ; Lake 
View;  Across  the  Lake  to  Plattsburg;  Scene  of  the 
Battle,  etc. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Plattsburg  and  the  Ausable  Chasm.  — Fouquet’s  Hotel ; 
Plattsburg ; The  Drive  to  the  Chasm ; Map  of  the 
Chasm ; The  Journey  through  the  Glen,  etc. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

The  Adirondack  Region.  — Paul  Smith’s  ; Martin’s  ; Boat 
Trip  through  the  Lakes ; A Visit  to  the  Southern  Lakes ; 
Big  Tupper;  Long  and  Raquette  Lakes;  John  Brown 
Tract;  Eckford  Chain  of  Lakes;  The  Southern  Adiron- 
dacks  ; Indian  Pass  ; Elizabethtown  ; Lake  Placid  ; Wil- 
mington Pass  and  Whiteface  Mountain. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Routes  to  Montreal. — Via  Lowell,  Manchester,  Concord; 
The  Air  Line  Route ; Lake  Winnipiseogee ; Down  the 
Lake  to  Wolf  boro’ ; Alton  Bay ; Plymouth  ; The  Grand 
Trunk  Route ; Wells  River;  Newport;  Lake  Memphrem- 
agog;  Trip  down  the  Lake;  Central  Vermont  Route; 
Mount  Mansfield  ; St.  Albans  ; Vermont  Mineral  Springs  ; 
From  Rutland  to  Montreal ; Plattsburg  to  Montreal. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  X. 


Route  to  Niagara  Falls. — Rochester  to  Niagara;  The 
Village  and  its  Hotels ; Tour  of  the  Islands ; Biddle 
Stairs  and  Cave  of  the  Winds ; Prospect  Park ; Across 
the  River;  Suspension  Bridge;  Webster’s  Description; 
Across  Lake  Ontario;  Down  the  St.  Lawrence;  The 
Thousand  Islands ; Ogdensburg;  Down  the  Rapids. 


CHAPTER  XL 


Montreal.  — Its  Squares,  Buildings,  Churches,  Institutions; 
Drive  around  the  Mountain;  Down  the  River  to  Quebec; 
City  of  Quebec  and  its  History;  The  Suburbs;  Mont- 
morenci  Falls;  The  Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  the 
Saguenaj";  Tadousac;  Ha!  Ha!  Bay;  other  Trips  from 
Quebec. 


CHAPTER  XI  I . 


The  White  Mountains. — Old  Man  of  the  Mountain;  The 
Flume ; Twin  Mountain  and  Crawford  Houses ; The 
Notch ; Gate  of  the  Notch ; Climbing  Mount  Washing- 
ton; North  Conway;  Kiarsarge  Mountain. 


THE  PROLOGUE, 


1873  and  1874,  Faxon’s  Handbook  of  Travel 


to  Saratoga,  the  Adirondacks,  Niagara  and 
the  Northern  watering-places  was  received 
with  the  most  flattering  favor  by  the  public 
generally  and  by  tourists  especially.  So 
marked,  indeed,  was  the  favor  accorded  it, 
that  the  publisher  would  have  been  justifled 
in  re-issuing  it  without  change,  for  an  in- 
deflnite  period,  assured  of  abundant  success. 
But  the  Spring  of  1875  brought  the  comple- 
tion of  the  Hoosac  Tunnel,  and  other  impor- 
tant routes  of  travel,  which  fact,  with  the 


desire  to  improve  the  book  still  further,  and  to  place  it  at 
the  head  of  all  similar  works,  determined  the  publisher  up- 
on a complete  revision  of  the  work,  including  all  changes 
up  to  the  present  time,  and  also  introducing  much  additional 
information  and  many  descriptions  of  scenes  not  found  in  the 
previous  issues.  This  work,  which  extends  to  an  entire  re- 
writing of  the  book,  has  been  carefully  and  conscientiously 
performed,  great  pains  being  taken  to  present  the  facts  ac- 
curately, yet  with  due  regard  to  interest,  and  it  is  believed 
that  a thoroughly  trustworthy  guidebook,  as  well  as  an  en- 
joyable volume  for  whiling  away  the  tedium  of  travel  is  the 
result.  The  attention  of  the  reader  is  especially  called  to 
several  original  features  in  this  book  which  will  be  of  value 
to  the  tourist. 


UBi?ARy 

wuvmiTy  orwiNfl* 


CHAPTER  I. 

Steamboat  Routes  to  Saratoga. 

HE  objective  point  of  our 
journeying-s  for  the  present 
being  Saratoga,  we  will  first 
show  how  a very  pleasant 
trip  thither  may  be  made 
principally  by  steamer, 
with  more  or  less  railroad 
worked  in  by  way  of  con- 
nections, as  may  be  de- 
sired. And  in  opening  the 
consideration  of  this  sub- 
ject, several  popular,  esti- 
mable and  every  way  first- 
class  routes  intrude  them- 
selves, so  to  speak,  upon  our 
notice,  and  we  shall  treat 
them,  one  at  a time  as  they 
deserve.  But  first,  which- 
ever route  be  chosen,  we  will 
presume  the  tourist  under- 
stands his  business,  has 
procured  his  tickets  and  laid  out  his  course  beforehand,  and 
has  not  as  some  foolish  virgins  do,  left  all  till  arrival  at  the 
railway  station,  a few  minutes  before  train-time.  Thus  in  place 

I 


2 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK, 


of  a nearly  distracted  and  thoroughly  irritated  man,  hurl- 
ling  questions  at  the  head  of  a busy  and  preoccupied  ticket- 
seller  or  a hurrying  and  impatient  porter,  while  his  family 
(the  traveller’s,  not  the  porter’s)  stand  around  in  anxiety  and 
despair,  we  shall  have  the  pleasing  spectacle  of  a complacent 
and  amiable  gentleman,  leading  a well  ordered  and  joyous 
procession  of  his  family  into  the  right  car,  at  the  right  time 
and  bound  in  the  right  direction ; with  ample  leisure  for  the 
purchase  of  the  morning  papers  and  the  selection  of  seats  on 
the  shady  side  of  the  car,  or  a desirable  section  in  the  ‘‘draw- 
ing room  ” if  preferred.  This  much  premised,  we  will  pro- 
ceed to  speak  of 

The  Stonington  Route  to  Wew  York, 

whence  we  will  take  the  Hudson  river  boats  to  Albany,  and 
the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad  thence  to  the  Springs. 
The  agency  in  Boston  of  this  line  is  at  228  Washington 
street,  where  courteous  gentlemen  will  be  happy  to  afford 
any  necessary  information  and  to  sell  tickets  for  any  desirable 
excursion  taking  in  this  route.  From  Boston  our  course  is 
over  the  Boston  and  Providence  Railroad,  one  of  the  best- 
managed  and  most  comfortable  roads  to  ride  over,  in  the 
country.  The  station  is  on  Park  Square,  only  a few  steps 
from  the  Common  and  the  Public  Garden,  and  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  finest  railway  depots  in  New  England.  The  mag- 
nificent train  house,  a huge  Gothic  arch,  accommodates  a doz- 
en trains  at  once,  without  confusion  or  inconvenience,  while 
the  waiting  rooms,  offices,  etc.,  in  the  head-house  fronting  on 
the  Square,  are  magnificent  in  their  dimensions,  furnishings 
and  conveniences.  A lofty  clock-tower  surmounts  the  head- 
house  and  adds  beauty  and  lightness  to  the  outward  appear- 
ance of  the  structure.  Taking  seats  on  the  right  hand  side  of 
the  cars  if  it  be  a hot  and  sunny  day,  we  are  whirled  out  of 
the  station,  across  the  Back  Bay,  stopping  for  one  instant 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Boston  and  Albany,  and  then  a delight- 
ful ride  begins  through  the  beautiful  western  suburbs  of  Bos- 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK^ 


3 


ton.  The  several  neat  and  convenient  stations  in  the  newly 
annexed  wards  of  the  city  are  passed,  and  then  come  Hyde 
Park,  Readville  and  Canton  (14  miles  from  Boston,  and  the  seat 
of  one  of  Eliot’s  Christian-Indian  settlements),  where  the 
railroad  traverses  a viaduct  of  solid  granite  63  feet  high  and 
600  feet  long,  and  whence,  seated  in  the  cars,  we  overlook  the 
roofs  of  the  village.  Here  the  Stoughton  Branch,  four  miles 
long,  leaves  the  main  road  and  runs  southeasterly  to  Stough- 
ton forming  a connection  with  the  Old  Colony.  Blue  Hill, 
an  eminence  over  600  feet  high,  commands  a fine  view  of  the 
city  which  we  have  just  left,  the  ocean  dotted  with  snowy 
sails  and  the  whole  surrounding  country.  Next  come  Sharon 
and  Foxboro,  noted  for  their  fine  hills,  their  manufacture  of 
straw-goods  and  their  fine  farms.  Mansfield,  22  miles  from 
Boston,  is  the  next  place,  and  here  we  make  our  first  stop, 
taking  on  board  probably,  a number  of  passengers  who  have 
come  down  from  Fitchburg,  Clinton,  Lowell  or  South  Fram- 
ingham “and  way  stations”  via  the  Mansfield  and  Framingham 
Railroad,  which  here  crosses  our  track  on  its  way  to  Taunton 
and  New  Bedford,  and  which  will  hereafter  be  described. 
The  junction  here  of  these  two  important  lines  has  made 
Mansfield  quite  a busy,  thriving  railroad  centre,  though  there 
is  little  else  of  interest  about  the  place.  Passing  West  Mans- 
field “on  the  fly”  we  are  soon  whizzing  through  Attleborough, 
on  a high  embankment,  giving  us  a view  of  the  busy  village, 
with  its  factories  lighted  up,  if  it  be  a dark  evening,  and 
their  hundreds  of  windows  gleaming  through  the  darkness  like 
fire-flies.  The  principal  industries  — indeed  almost  the  uni- 
versal manufacture,  is  that  of  jewelry.  The  tradition  used  to 
be  that  Attleboro  jewelry  could  be  procured  for  fifty  cents  a 
peck,  and  that  it  was  dear  at  that,  but  of  late  the  manufac- 
turers have  copied  costly  gold  jewelry  with  such  accuracy  and 
good  taste,  and  have  so  thoroughly  plated  their  goods  that 
their  appearance  can  be  hardly  distinguished  from  the  origi- 
nal, and  they  will  wear  for  a number  of  years.  Dodgeville 
and  Hebronville,  manufacturing  villages,  are  rapidly  left 


4 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


behind,  and  then  we  pass  through  Pawtucket,  39  miles  from 
Boston,  the  first  town  in  Rhode  Island,  on  a high  embank- 
ment, with  quite  a sharp  curve,  and  have  a fine  view  of  the 
many  large  and  busy  manufactories  for  which  the  place  is 
famous.  Here  are  the  Pawtucket  tack  works,  turning  out 
some  300  or  400  millions  annually,  the  Dunnell  manufactur- 
ing company’s  thirty-six  factories,  where  some  20  million 
yards  of  calico  are  yearly  printed,  the  thread  and  spool  fac- 
tories, the  steam  fire  engine  works  and  many  other  industries. 
Pawtucket  has  its  historical  interest,  also,  being  the  spot 
where  in  1676  Captain  Pierce  with  70  men  were  massacred  by 
the  Indians  in  the  bloody  “King  Philip’s  war.”  From  Paw- 
tucket we  ride  only  five  minutes  or  so  until  we  draw  up  in 
the  fine  and  spacious  railway  station  at  Providence,  434  miles 
from  Boston. 

Providence  — Its  History  and  Surroundings. 

Probably  every  reader  of  this  book  is  familiar  with  more  or 
less  of  the  history  of  this,  the  second  city  in  size  and  wealth, 
of  the  Eastern  States.  “ The  State  of  Rhode  Island  and 
Providence  Plantations,”  as  the  olficial  documents  read,  has 
had  more  good  natured  fun  made  of  it  than  any  other  State 
in  the  Union,  except  perhaps  Delaware,  on  account  of  its  tiny 
dimensions  and  its  two  capitals,  being,  since  the  rejection  of 
the  absurd  custom  by  Connecticut,  the  only  State  which  in- 
dulges in  such  an  expensive  and  needless  luxury.  Yet  if 
wealth,  industry  and  prosperity  count  for  anything,  Rhode 
Island  is  a great  State,  and  as  for  patriotism  and  national 
pride,  the  1680  Rhode  Island  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  war  for 
the  Union  sufficiently  answer.  Providence  “is  the  State”  to 
a greater  degree,  probably,  than  is  true  of  the  capital  of  any 
other  Commonwealth,  not  merely  by  virtue  of  containing 
some  70,000  of  the  220,000  entire  population  of  the  State,  but 
bv  virtue  of  its  commerce,  its  manufactures,  its  educational 
institutions  and  the  wealth  and  enterprise  of  its  citizens. 
It  is  a beautiful  city,  most  attractively  located  around  the  head 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


5 


of  Narragansett  Bay,  which  stretches  southward  to  the  ocean. 
The  Providence  river,  which  empties  into  the  bay,  expands 
into  a cove,  almost  circular  in  form,  and  quite  large  in  area, 
which  lies  to  our  right  as  we  enter  the  station.  This  cove  is 
surrounded  by  a broad  walk,  shaded  by  fine  trees,  amply 
lighted  and  protected  by  an  iron  railing,  thus  forming  a favor- 
ite promenade  in  the  Summer.  The  view  across  the  cove  in 
the  evening,  when  all  the  twinkling  lights  are  gleaming  and 
their  refiections  flash  from  the  water,  is  very  pretty.  The 
Seekonk  river  runs  on  the  East  side  of  the  city,  forming  at  its 
confluence  with  the  Providence  river  a broad  and  commodious 
harbor.  On  the  eastern  side  of  the  Seekonk,  is  East  Provi- 
dence, a pleasant  suburb,  through  which  the  Providence, 
Warren  and  Bristol  Railroad  runs  along  the  shore  of  the  bay 
to  Vue  de  L’Eau,  and  thence  to  Warren  and  Bristol.  The  city 
is  very  irregularly  laid  out,  rivalling  its  ancient  foe,  Boston, 
in  that  respect,  but  its  business  streets  and  buildings  are 
many  of  them  very  fine.  The  manufacture  of  steam  engines 
and  other  machinery,  silver  ware,  fire-arms,  cigars,  etc., 
foreign  commerce  and  trade  are  the  principal  sources  of  the 
wealth  of  Providence.  Alighting  from  the  cars,  we  step  out 
of  the  depot  upon  Exchange  Place,  where  we  see  the  fine  sol- 
diers’ monument,  from  the  design  of  Randolph  Rogers,  and 
which  was  erected  by  the  State.  The  base  is  of  blue  Westerly 
granite  and  the  superstructure  of  bronze.  Four  statues  seven 
feet  high  represent  the  Infantry,  Cavalry,  Artillery  and  the 
Navy,  and  above  them  stands  a figure  of  America,  ten  feet 
high,  extending  in  one  hand  a wreath  of  immortelles  for  the 
fallen  and  in  the  other  a sword  and  laurel  wreath  for  the  liv- 
ing. A short  distance  from  the  monument,  towards  the  river, 
is  the  Custom  House  and  Post-office,  a massive  granite  build- 
ing, and  just  across  the  river  is  the  City  Hall.  The  Arcade, 
a large,  open  hall,  roofed  with  glass,  on  either  side  of  which, 
on  two  stories,  open  retail  stores  of  various  descriptions,  ex- 
tends through  from  Weybosset  to  Westminster  streets,  in 
this  immediate  vicinity,  and  is  one  of  the  attractions  usually 


6 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


shown  to  strangers.  The  Rhode  Island  Hospital,  Brown  Uni- 
versity, the  Athenaeum,  the  Rhode  Island  Historical  Society’s 
Hall,  the  Dexter  Asylum,  the  Butler  Insane  Hospital,  the 
Friends’  Boarding  School,  and  the  State  Prison  are  the  prin- 
cipal public  institutions,  and  there  are  many  fine  churches  of 
various  denominations. 

Providence  was  founded  in  June,  1636,  by  Roger  Williams, 
who  had  been  exiled  from  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony  for 
heretical  religious  views,  he  being  a Baptist.  On  his  coming 
hither,  he  was  drifting  down  the  Seekonk  river,  when  at  a 
rock  near  the  foot  of  Power  street,  which  is  still  shown  to 
visitors,  he  was  hailed  by  some  Indians  with  the  cry  “What 
cheer?”  He  landed,  "end  after  a short  confab  with  the  savages, 
who  were  very  friendly  and  amiable,  he  continued  his  course 
a few  blocks  further,  under  the  India  street  bridge  and  around 
Fox  street  to  the  mouth  of  the  Providence  river,  where  he  saw 
a good  opening  for  a settlement,  and  accordingly  settled. 
Since  that  day,  Roger  Williams  and  What  Cheer  have  been 
the  patron  saints  of  Rhode  Island,  and  nearly  everything  in 
Providence  is  named  after  one  or  the  other.  Roger  Williams 
was  a good  man  and  he  was  the  first  to  try  the  experiment  of 
genuine  and  perfect  religious  liberty  in  this  country.  The 
consequence  was  that  his  little  colony  was  soon  filled  up  with 
all  sorts  of  “damnable  heretics,”  Quakers,  Baptists,  Catho- 
lics and  those  of  no  particular  faith,  yet  they  managed  to  pros- 
per, branch  out  and  increase,  living  at  peace  with  each  other 
and  with  the  Indians.  It  will  be  observed  that  there  were 
good  Indians  in  those  days.  The  Narragansetts,  as  Roger 
Williams  found  them,  were  a simple,  amiable  race,  and  what 
is  most  wonderful  for  Indians,  industrious,  supplying  most  of 
their  dusky  brethren  of  other  tribes  with  wampum,  pipes  and 
pottery.  The  only  good  Indians  nowadays,  are  dead  Indians. 

The  suburbs  of  Providence  are  very  inviting  to  the  Summer 
tourist.  By  the  Providence,  Warren  and  Bristol  railroad,  one 
may  visit  several  watering  places  along  the  east  shore  of  Nar- 
raganset  Bay,  or  may  settle  for  a time  at  Warren,  the  former 


TOURISTS  HANDBOOK. 


7 


home  of  Massasoit,  or  at  Bristol,  near  which  is  Mount  Hope, 
the  dwelling  place  of  Metacomet  or  King  Philip,  son  of  the 
great  sachem,  and  the  bitterest  foe  of  the  whites  in  the  long 
war  which  ended  with  his  death.  By  steamers  from  Provi- 
dence one  can  take  passage  almost  hourly  down  the  Bay  to 
Vue  de  L’Eau,  Smith’s  Palace,  Silver  Springs,  Cedar  Grove, 
Bullock’s  Point,  Naj^att  Point;  Rocky  Point,  the  most  cele- 
brated shore  resort  and  clambake  manufactory  in  New  Eng- 
land ; past  Warwick,  famous  in  old  times  as  the  seat  of  a 
colony  of  most  remarkable  heretics  even  for  that  age^  and 
as  the  birthplace  of  General  Nathaniel  Greene,  of  Revolu- 
tionary fame ; by  Prudence,  Hope,  Patience  and  Despair 
Isfands,  then  down  between  Rhode  and  Conanicut  Islands, 
and  into  the  harbor  of  Newport.  From  Providence,  a line 
of  steamers  runs  to  New  York,  the  Hartford,  Providence 
and  Fishkill  Railroad  runs  west  to  Hartford  and  Water- 
bury,  the  Providence  and  Worcester  northw^est  to  Worcester, 
and  the  Stonington  and  Providence,  by  which  we  continue 
our  route,  and  which  forms  part  of  the  Shore  Line,  (all-rail) 
to  New  York,  skirts  along  the  west  coast  of  Narraganset  Bay 
and  across  a point  of  Washington  County,  across  the  line  of 
Connecticut  to  Stonington  at  the  easterly  end  of  Long  Island 
Sound. 

Stonington  and  the  Sound  Voyage. 

Leaving  Providence  we  pass  nearly  south  through  the 
towns  of  Cranston  (noted  for  its  cotton-mills  and  for  its  Nar- 
ragansett  race-course), Warwick,  previously  described;  Green- 
wich, the  site  of  a Methodist  seminary;  Wickford,  a sleepy, 
antique  place,  and  Kingston  (70  miles  from  Boston),  the  coun- 
ty seat,  whence  carriages  convey  passengers  to  Narragansett 
Pier,  nine  miles  southeast,  the  youthful  rival  of  Newport, 
with  its  cluster  of  hotels,  its  fii^e  beach,  its  overlooking 
Heights,  its  morning  bathing  and  afternoon  croquet,  and  its 
drives  to  Narragansett  Heights,  the  neighboring  lakelets.  Point 
Judith  and  other  points  of  interest.  This  town  of  South 


8 


TO  UR  IS  TS^  HA  ND  BOOK. 


Kingstown  is  the  largest  in  Rhode  Island,  covering  an  area  of 
76  square  miles ; it  is  noted  as  the  birthplace  of  Commodore 
Perry  and  of  Stuart  the  great  painter,  and  for  containing  the 
great  swamp  in  which  was  fought  the  decisive  battle  in  the 
King  Philip  war.  On  a hill  crowned  with  pines  and  cedars 
in  the  centre  of  this  swamp  are  still  to  be  seen  the  remains  of 
the  rude  fort  in  which  the  desperate  Narragansetts  intrenched 
themselves  and  whence  they  were  driven  by  the  still  more 
desperate  colonists  from  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut. 

Leaving  behind  Carolina,  a manufacturing  village,  Rich- 
mond Switch  and  Niantic,  we  come  to  Westerly,  which  lies  on 
both  sides  of  the  Pawcatuck  river.  Here  is  the  dividing  line 
between  Connecticut  and  Rhode  Island ; accordingly  one  half 
the  village  is  in  one  State  and  the  rest  in  the  other.  Another 
curious  feature  of  Westerly  is  that  nearly  all  the  inhabitants 
are  Seventh  Day  Baptists,  so  that  on  Saturday  the  visitor  will 
find  the  manufactories  and  stores  closed  and  the  church  bells 
ringing.  On  Sunday,  everything  assumes  its  week-day  aspect. 
There  are  extensive  fiannel  and  cotton  mills  here  and  the  vil- 
lage has  quite  a picturesque  appearance.  There  is  one  fine 
hotel  here,  the  Dixon  House,  owned  by  and  named  after  ex- 
Senator  Dixon.  From  Westerly  a little  steamer  runs  twice 
daily  down  the  river  to  Watch  Hill,  a favorite  watering  place 
on  the  Sound,  or  rather  on  the  precipitous  promontory  which 
divides  the  Atlantic  Ocean  from  the  Sound.  On  the  one  side 
of  this  point  the  visitor  can  enjoy  still-bathing;  on  the  other 
surf-bathing,  which  in  high  winds  is  too  high  and  strong  for 
safety.  Watch  Hill  is  also  accessible  six  times  daily  by  boat 
from  Stonington  and  once  or  twice  daily  by  boats  from  Nor- 
wich and  New  London.  There  are  seven  fine  hotels  at  Watch 
Hill,  all  on  the  summit  of  the  Bluff,  and  a fine  view  of  the 
Sound,  Fisher’s  and  Block  Islands,  and  the  town  of  Stoning- 
ton on  the  mainland  just  across  the  sheltered  bay.  The  col- 
lision by  which  the  steamer  Metis  was  sunk  off  Watch  Hill, 
in  August,  1872,  will  be  remembered  for  many  years  by  resi- 
dents and  visitors.  The  deck  of  the  vessel  with  most  of  the 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK, 


9 


rescued  passengers  washed  ashore  on  the  point,  and  so  did 
most  of  the  bodies  of  the  drowned.  The  proprietors  and 
guests  of  the  hotels  were  indefatigable  in  their  efforts  for  the 
comfort  of  the  rescued. 

Stonington,  92  miles  from  Boston,  is  the  next  station,  but 
we  do  not  see  anything  of  the  quaint  and  sleepy  old  town,  for 
we  are  switched  off  a mile  or  two  short  of  the  station,  and 
sent  down  to  the  landing  alongside  which  lies  the  steamer 
Rhode  Island,  Stonington  or  Narragansett,  with  steam  up, 
ready  to  convey  us  to  New  York.  These  steamers  of  the 
Stonington  line  (especially  the  Rhode  Island,  the  newest  of 
the  Sound  boats  and  one  of  the  most  elegant  afloat)  are  fa- 
mous the  country  over  for  their  speed,  safety,  comfort  and 
luxury,  and  the  convenient  hours  at  which  they  start  and  ar- 
rive have  always  made  this  a favorite  route  with  the  public. 

The  Rhode  Island  — A Model  Steamer  and  an  Enchant- 
ing Sail. 

The  Rhode  Island  may  be  taken  as  a model  Sound  steamer, 
her  size,  elegance  and  varied  conveniences  being  united  with 
speed  and  safety,  thus  making  up  all  the  desirable  qualities  of 
a steam.boat.  One  novel  and  most  agreeable  feature  is  the 
location  of  the  dining  hall  on  the  main  deck,  aft  the  space 
usually  devoted  to  the  Ladies  Saloon.  This  dining  hall  is  a 
spacious  and  luxurious  apartment,  fitted  up  tastily  and  look- 
ing out  upon  the  water  on  both  sides,  thus  ensuring  a happy 
combination  of  light,  fresh,  pure  air,  and  an  everchanging 
scene  npon  the  waters  of  the  largest  inland  sea  of  America. 
The  linen,  silver,  glass  and  service  of  this  hall  is  rich,  attrac- 
tive, and,  in  beauty  of  finish,  all  that  the  most  fastidious  could 
hope  or  wish  for.  The  dining  room  will  seat  250  persons  at 
one  sitting.  On  warm  afternoons,  parties  desiring  it  can 
dine  off  the  spacious  guards,  a novelty  in  steamboat  travel. 
There  are  165  staterooms,  each  large  and  with  lofty  ceilings. 
Every  room  on  the  boat  is  lit  with  gas,  and  in  each  alcove  is 
an  electric  bell,  which  communicates  with  the  steward’s  de- 


lO 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


partment,  which  is  a novelty  on  a Sound  steamer.  The  rooms 
are  richly  furnished  and  fitted  with  every  convenience.  A 
Chickering  grand  piano  graces  the  saloon  which  is  sumptu- 
ously decorated,  carpeted  and  frescoed,  and  is  lighted  by  ele- 
gant bronze  chandeliers.  One  of  the  noticeable  features  of 
this  really  magnificent  steamer  is  the  application  of  steam  to 
her  steering  wheel,  which  reduces  the  chances  of  accident  by 
collision  to  the  merest  minimum.  A child  can  steer  the 
Rhode  Island,  as  far  as  strength  is  required.  Under  its  pres- 
ent auspices  the  Stonington  Steamboat  Company  has  been  in 
operation  seven  years,  without  missing  a trip  or  losing  a 
single  life.  It  traverses  what  is  called  the  inside  route,  thus 
avoiding  the  rough  and  uncertain  passage  around  Point 
Judith,  and  its  provisions  for  the  comfort  and  pleasure  of  pas- 
sengers are  unsurpassed. 

Embarking  at  about  9 o’clock  we  are  soon  steaming  out  into 
the  Sound,  with  a view  of  the  gleaming  lights  of  the  Watch 
Hill  hotels  on  our  left,  and  the  blazing  Fisher’s  Island  light 
ahead  of  us.  Soon  we  turn  to  the  eastward  and  lay  our  course 
up  the  Sound,  with  the  beautiful  hills  and  green  fields  of  Con- 
necticut on  our  right,  and  the  low,  flat,  monotonous  shores  of 
Long  Island  in  the  distance  on  our  left.  After  a substantial 
supper  in  the  saloon  below,  if  it  be  a moonlight  night,  we 
shall  find  our  chief  enjoyment  of  the  trip  in  sitting  out 
upon  the  forward  deck,  watching  the  lights  on  shore,  the  pas- 
ing  sails  that  gleam  ghostly  white  in  the  moonbeams  for  an 
instant  and  flit  by  like  morning  vapors ; the  bold  outlines  of 
the  eminences  on  the  shore,  or  the  islands  along  our  course, 
while  the  gentlemen  enjoy  the  acme  of  physical  happiness  in 
the  whiffing  of  fragrant  cigars,  and  the  ladies,  wrapped  in 
fleecy  nothings  express  their  uncontrollable  enthusiasm  in 
positive  declarations  that  “it’s  just  too  lovely  for  anything.” 
Or,  if  the  breeze  be  too  strong,  as  Sound  breezes  even  in 
..  Summer  often  are,  we  shall  find  in  a seat  upon  the  afterdeck, 
with  the  steamer’s  wake  churned  to  frothy  whiteness  by  the 
paddlewheels  stretching  behind  us  like  a path  of  silver  in  the 


TO URIS  TS^  HA  NDBOOK.  1 1 

white  moonbeams,  a fascination  that  we  would  not  forego, 
and  here  for  hours  we  shall  find  delighted  voyagers  drinking 
in  the  beauty  of  the  scene  with  placid  contentment.  But 
romance  fades  before  the  drowsy  god,  and  we  shall  doubtless 
succumb  to  the  desire  for  sleep  sometime  before  midnight. 
Then  we  can  retire  to  our  cosy  staterooms  fitted  with  electric 
bells,  running  water,  gas  and  other  comforts  of  a first  class 
hotel,  and  on  a luxurious  bed  rest  as  sweetly  as  if  at  home, 
being  wakened  in  the  morning,  if  we  desire,  in  season  to  en- 
joy the  sail  through  the  East  River  and  Hell  Gate ; or  if  we 
prefer  can  slumber  till  the  boat  reaches  her  pier.  No.  33  North 
River. 

The  Approach  to  New  York. 

The  East  River,  so  called,  is  simply  the  narrow  strait  by 
which  the  waters  of  the  Sound  communicate  with  New  York 
Bay.  The  narrowest  portion  of  this  strait,  filled  with  sunken 
ledges,  projecting  rocks  and  small  islets,  through  which  all  the 
water  is  poured  at  every  turn  of  the  tide  is  known  as  Hell 
Gate,  from  its  dangerous  character  in  years  past.  Many  ves- 
sels have  been  caught  in  its  treacherous,  boiling  whirlpools 
and  dashed  upon  its  sunken  rocks,  to  destruction.  But  the 
government  engineers,  by  blasting  out  the  submarine  rocks 
have  greatly  changed  the  aspect  of  the  place  for  the  better  and 
there  is  now  little  or  no  danger  in  navigating  the  river.  Our 
entrance  to  the  river  is  made  where  the  Sound,  suddenly  nar- 
rowing, is  almost  cut  off  by  the  projection  of  Throgg’s  Neck, 
from  the  shore  of  Westchester  County  on  the  north,  and  the 
almost  coincident  projection  of  Willett’s  Point  from  Long 
Island  on  the  south.  Here  the  government  has  two  strong 
fortifications  commanding  the  passage  of  the  river  and  the 
approach  to  the  city  from  this  direction.  Soon  we  pass  Flush- 
ing Bay,  on  the  left,  with  the  beautiful  village  of  the  same 
name  at  its  head ; Randall’s  Island,  with  its  House  of  Refuge 
for  young  criminals ; Ward’s  Island,  with  its  Emigrant  Hospi- 
tal and  Potter’s  Field ; Hell  Gate,  with  its  swirling  currents 


12 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


and  rocky  isles;  Astoria  and  Ravenswood,  pretty  villages  on 
the  Long  Island  shore ; Blackwell’s  Island,  with  its  Lunatic 
Asylum,  Workhouse,  Almshouse,  Penitentiary,  Charity  Hos- 
pital, Small-pox  Hospital,  and  its  neat  little  fortification,  built 
by  a crazy  inmate  named  Maxey,  who  was  impressed  with  the 
belief  that  this  was  the  true  point  to  defend  the  city.  We 
now  begin  to  realize  our  approach  to  the  metropolis.  The 
elegant  villas  and  richly  cultivated  gardens  on  either  side  of 
the  river  begin  to  give  place  to  foundries,  ship-yards  and  other 
manufacturing  establishments  ; on  our  left  we  pass  in  succes- 
sion Hunter’s  Point,  Greenpoint,  Williamsburg  (now  part  of 
Brooklyn),  the  Wallabout  Bay,  with  the  U.  S.  Navy  Yard  and 
the  houses  and  spires  of  Brooklyn ; on  our  right  flit  past  one 
after  the  other  Jones’s  Wood,  the  German  festival  garden, 
Bellevue  Hospital,  and  then  the  solid  squares  of  brick  and  mor- 
tar that  go  to  make  up  the  great  city.  Continuing  down  the 
East  River,  amid  the  swarm  of  ferryboats  that  dart  out  from 
the  slips  on  either  hand,  by  the  forests  of  masts  that  line  the 
wharves  on  both  sides,  we  pass  the  huge  and  towering  piers 
of  the  Brooklyn  Suspension  Bridge,  turn  to  the  right  and 
are  soon  rounding  the  Battery.  This  small  island  on  our 
left,  covered  with  fortifications  bristling  with  guns,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a circular  fort  that  looks  as  much  like  a cheese  as 
anything,  is  Governor’s  Island.  That  round,  odd  looking 
structure  on  our  right,  with  a conical  roof  that  looks  like  a big 
gasholder,  is  Castle  Garden,  once  a fort,  later  the  fashion- 
able concert  hall  and  ball-room  of  the  city,  where  Jenny  Lind, 
Parodi,  Sontag  and  other  old-time  prime-donne  made  their 
most  notable  successes ; now  the  emigant  depot  of  the  city. 
It  was  formerly  isolated  from  the  main  land,  and  accessible 
only  by  a bridge,  but  among  the  improvements  carried  on  by 
the  Tammany  ring,  with  Boss  Tweed  as  its  centre,  was  the  ex- 
tension and  beautifying  of  the  Battery,  by  which  Castle  Gar- 
den was  included  within  its  limits,  the  whole  territory  enclosed 
by  a splendid  granite  sea-wall,  the  surface  graded,  turfed  and 
laid  out  in  walks,  trees  planted,  lights  set,  and  the  whole  made 


TO  UR  IS  TS'  HA  ND  BOOK, 


13 


a most  attractive  pleasure  park  for  the  densely  crowded  dis- 
trict in  its  vicinity.  “Give  the  devil  his  due”  is  an  old  pro- 
verb, and  Boss  Tweed  and  the  Tammany  ring  have  received 
so  much  just  denunciation  that  they  ought  to  have  credit  for 
this  genuine  improvement  to  the  city.  Looking  directly  north 
from  the  Battery  extends  Broadway,  the  great  artery  of  Man- 
hattan Island.  We  are  now  entering  the  North  or  Hudson  river, 
and  passing  between  New  York  city  on  the  right,  and  Jersey  city 
and  Hoboken  on  the  left.  On  both  sides  are  the  piers  and  docks 
of  steamship  lines,  foreign  and  domestic,  and  all  along  the 
wharves  are  the  proofs  of  the  immense  commerce  of  the  city. 
The  piers  are  numbered  in  regular  order,  beginning  at  the 
Battery,  and  as  our  Pier  is  No.  33,  it  is  only  a short  time  before 
we  are  “warping  in”  and  soon  we  are  landed  at  the  foot  of 
Jay  street,  a few  steps  from  West  street.  As  this  is  not  a cyclo- 
paedia nor  a gazetteer,  no  description  of  New  York  city  will 
be  attempted  ; indeed  to  most  people  it  will  be  unnecessary. 
We  will  simply  pursue  our  journey  Saratogaward,  proceeding 
by  steamer  up  the  Hudson,  as  described  in  Chapter  II. 

The  Old  Colony  Route  to  Saratoga. 

Another  favorite  route  from  Boston  to  New  York,  e7i  route 
for  Saratoga,  is  that  via  Old  Colony  Railroad  to  Fall  River 
or  Newport,  thence  by  the  steamer  Bristol  or  Providence  to  New 
York,  and  thence  up  the  Hudson,  as  described  in  next  chapter. 
If  we  decide  on  this  route,  our  first  move  will  be  to  visit  the 
office  of  the  line  in  the  venerable  old  building  at  the  head  of 
State  street,  formerly  the  seat  of  the  assembled  wisdom  of  the 
colony,  known  as  the  Old  State  House.  Having  purchased 
tickets  and  secured  check  for  a first  class  stateroom,  we  repair 
to  the  Old  Colony  depot,  corner  of  Kneeland  and  South 
streets,  a few  minutes  before  half  past  four  in  the  afternoon, 
and  are  soon  comfortably  seated  in  the  cars.  We  have  an 
opportunity  to  admire  the  fine  station,  with  its  lofty  rotunda, 
its  elegant  and  luxuriously  furnished  waiting  rooms,  its  im- 
mense arched  train  house,  its  courteous  ticket  sellers  and  other 


14 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


depot  officials,  its  complete  system  of  designating  trains  and 
their  starting  time,  so  that  no  one  could  possibly  go  astray, 
and  the  numerous  conveniences  which  all  travelers  must  ap- 
preciate, but  which  are  not  often  found  in  such  perfection  as 
here.  If  we  choose  we  can  fancy  ourselves  English  lords  or 
something  else  as  we  whirl  over  the  smooth  rails,  by  taking  to 
ourselves  a compartment  in  the  English  coaches  which  are 
run  on  the  steamboat  trains,  but  if  we  here  have  a patriotic 
horror  of  “blasted  Britishers”  and  their  ways,  we  shall  find 
the  ordinary  cars  sufficiently  comfortable  for  the  best  Yankee 
citizen.  We  move  out  of  the  depot,  and  out  of  the  city  pro- 
per almost  simultaneously  as  we  cross  Fort  Point  Channel  to 
South  Boston,  on  a pile  drawbridge,  but  though  out  of  the  old 
town  of  Boston,  we  are  not  to  be  outside  of  the  limits  of  the 
present  city  of  Boston  for  some  time.  Crossing  the  South 
Bay  on  a causeway  and  pile  bridge,  we  enter  the  old  town  of 
Dorchester,  now  the  Sixteenth  Ward,  Boston.  We  successive- 
ly pass  Crescent  Avenue,  Savin  Hill,  Harrison  Square  and 
Neponset  stations,  all  in  the  Dorchester  District,  and  all  on 
the  shores  of  Dorchester  Bay,  across  which  fine  views  of  the 
harbor  and  islands  are  obtained.  Then  we  cross  the  end  of 
Milton  (Atlantic  Station)  and  enter  the  famous  town  of 
Quincy,  famous  as  the  home  of  the  Adams  family  and  the 
birthplace  of  Quincy  granite.  The  three  stations  in  this  town 
are  Wollaston  Heights,  Quincy  and  Quincy  Adams,  respec- 
tively 6-i,  8 and  82  miles  from  Boston.  The  Quincy  station  is 
near  the  homestead  of  the  Adams  family.  Then  Braintree  is 
passed,  whence  the  South  Shore  division  branches  off  to 
the  eastward,  passing  through  Weymouth,  Hingham,  Co- 
hasset,  Scituate  and  Mansfield  to  Duxbury,  and  thence  to 
Plymouth  by  a short  connecting  branch,  and  we  draw  up 
for  a moment  at  South  Braintree,  ii4  miles  from  Boston. 
Here  is  a general  junction,  as  three  divisions  of  the  road 
branch  off  here,  one  via  the  Abingtons,  Hanson,  Hali- 
fax, Plympton  and  Kingston  to  Plymouth,  with  a branch 
diverging  from  South  Abington  to  Bridgewater  on  the  sec- 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK.  1 5 

ond  or  Cape  Cod  Division.  This  division  taking  South 
Braintree  as  its  point  of  departure,  passes  through  Holbrook, 
East  Stoughton,  Brockton,  Bridgewater,  Middleboro,  (whence 
two  branches  lead  to  the  westward,  one  to  Weir  Junction, 
near  Taunton,  the  other  via  Myricks,  where  the  New  Bedford 
Railroad  is  crossed,  to  Somerset  Junction,  forming  a connec- 
tion with  the  third  or  Fall  River  and  Newport  Division,  jet  to 
be  described,  through  South  Middleboro,  Tremont  (con- 
necting with  the  Fairhaven  Branch  Railroad  to  New  Bedford), 
Wareham,  Cohasset  Narrows  (hence  still  another  branch  runs 
south  via  Falmouth  to  Woods’  Hole,  where  the  Martha’s  Vine- 
yard and  Nantucket  steamer  is  taken).  Sandwich,  Barnstable, 
Yarmouth  (where  a little  branch  runs  south  to  Hyannis  Port, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  Cape,  a watering  place  of  some  note), 
then  along  the  sandy  ridge  known  as  Cape  Cod,  through 
Dennis,  Harwich,  Brewster,  Orleans,  Eastham,  Wellfleet,  and 
Truro,  to  the  extreme  curving  tip  of  the  Cape,  the  fishing  town 
of  Provincetown,  120  miles  from  Boston.  The  third  division 
is  the  one  with  which  we  have  to  do,  and  we  take  the  most 
westerly  course  of  the  three  from  South  Braintree.  We  pass 
through  Holbrook,  14!  miles  from  Boston,  a “shoe  town,” 
Stoughton,  North  Easton,  Easton,  and  Raynham,  in  which 
latter  place  the  first  forge  in  America  was  set  up  by  the 
Leonard  brothers,  in  1652,  and  soon  enter  the  station  at  Taun- 
ton, 34  miles  from  Boston.  This  is  a city  of  some  20,000 
inhabitants,  on  the  Taunton  river,  which  furnishes  the  power 
for  many  manufactories,  thus  disproving  the  ancient  libel  that 
Taunton  water  was  too  weak  to  run  down  hill.  Miss  Eliza- 
beth Pool,  of  Taunton  in  Somersetshire,  England,  founded 
and  named  this  city  in  the  early  days  of  the  colony,  but  it 
was  only  a pretty  hamlet  in  1810.  Now,  there  are  the  im- 
mense Mason  Locomotive  Works,  the  Taunton  Car  Works, 
the  various  tack  manufactories  which  turn  out  about  the  only 
kind  of  tax  popular  with  the  public,  the  Taunton  Copper 
Works,  several  brick  manufactories,  foundries,  cotton  mills 
and  an  extensive  Britannia-ware  manufactory.  The  centre  of 


i6 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


the  city  is  the  Green,  a neat  square,  with  fine  buildings  front- 
ing upon  it.  Near  hy  are  the  buildings  and  grounds  of  the 
State  Lunatic  Asylum,  a pleasant  and  popular  Summer  resort, 
the  City  Hall,  Public  Library  and  several  fine  stone  churches. 
Taunton  is  a quiet  and  thrifty  place,  and  much  pleasanter  to  the 
visitor  than  its  younger  and  more  energetic  sister.  Fall  River. 
Weir  Junction,  where  the  New  Bedford  Railroad  crosses  our 
track,  Weir,  North  Dighton,  Dighton  (near  which  the  famous 
Dighton  Rock,  with  its  supposed  Icelandic  inscription  is 
found),  and  Somerset  are  successively  passed,  and  we  arrive  at 
Fall  River,  50  miles  from  Boston. 

Pall  River  and  its  Factories. 

Here  is  the  great  spindle  city  of  the  country,  ranking  even 
Lowell.  The  mills  stand  in  rows,  one  above  the  other,  along 
the  steep  banks  of  the  river  which  falls  136  feet  in  half  a mile, 
and  so  thickly  are  they  studded  along  this  magnificent  water- 
power  that  they  completely  hide  it  from  view.  Many  of  the 
mills,  however,  are  run  by  steam-power.  Print  cloths  are  the 
principal  manufacture,  though  all  kinds  of  cotton  goods  and 
some  woolens,  are  made.  Over  $10,000,000  are  invested  in 
the  Fall  River  mills,  and  they  furnish  employment  for  over 
20,000  operatives.  Most  of  the  factories  are  massive  granite 
structures  and  rank  among  the  finest  of  their  class.  The  sad 
disaster  at  the  Granite  Mill,  No.  i,  in.  the  Autumn  of  1874,  by 
which  20  or  more  operatives  were  suffocated  in  the  burning 
structure,  or  leaped  from  the  windows  to  a cruel  death  on  the 
pavements  below,  is  fresh  in  everyone’s  mind.  Fall  River  is 
solidly  built  along  the  shore  of  Mount  Hope  Bay,  with  Mount 
Hope  itself  looming  up  on  the  other  shore.  The  boundary 
line  of  Rhode  Island  passes  just  south  of  the  city ; formerly  it 
divided  it,  but  Massachusetts  ceded  some  land  around  Paw- 
tucket to  “ Litle  Rhody,”  and  secured  the  whole  of  the  “Bor- 
der City”  for  herself.  The  Fall  River,  Warren  and  Provi- 
dence Railroad  runs  hence,  northwest,  to  Providence,  16 
miles.  At  Fall  River,  our  train  runs  down  to  an  extensive 


TO  UK  IS  TS'  /I  A NDKOOK. 


17 


wharf,  alongside  which,  witli  steam  up,  lies  the  magnilicent 
steamer  Bristol  or  Providence,  waiting  to  convey  us  to  New 
York.  These  vessels,  which  are  perfect  counterparts  of  each 
other,  have  exhausted  the  praises  of  hosts  of  writers.  For 
size,  speed,  beauty  and  luxury  of  appointments,  they  are 
among  the  finest  steamers  ever  launched,  and  each  Summer 
the  crowds  that  patronize  them  attest  their  popularity.  A fine 
military  band  on  each  trip  performs  selections  on  deck,  and 
also  dance  music  in  the  saloon,  and  the  hours  of  the  evening 
often  wane  into  the  “wee  sma’  hours  ayant  the  twal,”  before 
the  happy  voyagers  seek  their  sumptuous  stateroom  couches. 
From  Fall  River,  our  course  is  across  Mount  Hope  Bay  and 
into  that  of  Narragansett,  down  which  we  steam  for  20  miles, 
and  round  into  the  harbor  of  Newport.  The  sail  down  the 
Bay  is  most  exhilarating  and  delightful,  much  more  so  than 
the  ride  by  rail  from  Fall  River,  via  Tiverton,  Bristol  Ferry, 
where  the  track  crosses  a narrow  strait  to  the  upper  end  of 
Rhode  Island  (the  island,  not  the  State),  and  then  down  to 
Newport,  which  occupies  the  southwestern  portion  of  the 
island. 

Newport  and  its  Attractions. 

This  famous  watering  place,  famous  alike  for  its  mild  and 
equable  climate,  its  magnificent  ocean  views  and  its  refined 
and  cultured  society,  can  have  but  an  imperfect  mention  here. 
A volume  alone  could  do  it  justice.  Indeed,  many  volumes 
have  been  devoted  to  the  task  and  have  only  in  part  succeed- 
ed. Newport  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  American  summer  re- 
sorts, and  will  always  hold  its  preeminence,  though  since  the 
war,  the  decline  of  Southern  travel  has  tended  to  change  the 
preponderance  of  the  transient  population  from  the  great  ho- 
tels to  the  magnificent  villas  or  the  cosy  cottages  that  spring 
up  like  the  work  of  enchanters  all  over  the  peninsula;  from 
mere  butterflies  of  fashion  to  refined  and  elegant  summer 
residents.  In  the  i6th  century,  Verrazani,  a Florentine,  vis- 
ited this  spot  and  wrote  of  its  beauties,  but  even  his  landing 
is  antedated  by  that  of  the  Norsemen,  if  the  testimony  of  the 


i8 


TO  UR  IS  TS’  HA  ND  BOOK. 


old  stone  tower  in  Touro  Park  may  be  credited.  This  won- 
derful ruin,  which  has  set  all  the  antiquarians  by  the  ears  for 
centuries,  is  a circular  structure  of  stone,  supported  on  round 
arches,  and  now  covered  with  ivy  and  enclosed  by  an  iron 
fence.  It  certainly  does  not  bear  out  in  construction,  mater- 
ial or  style  of  architecture  the  theory  that  a colonial  governor 
built  it  for  a wind-mill,  in  the  i7th  century,  neither  is  there 
any  record  that  such  was  the  case,  and  the  opinion  generally 
accepted  is  that  it  was  a watch-tower,  built  by  the  Norsemen 
who  are  supposed  to  have  settled  this  section  in  the  nth  cen- 
tury ; the  same  who  inscribed  the  Dighton  rock.  Its  elevated 
locality,  its  workmanship  and  its  style  of  architecture  all  tend 
to  bear  out  this  supposition.  It  is  naturally  one  of  the  chief 
points  of  interest  in  Newport,  and  standing  as  it  does,  in 
front  of  the  Atlantic  House  and  near  the  centre  of  the  city, 
is  observed  by  all  visitors.  The  old  town,  built  around  a fine 
harbor  opening  from  Narragansett  Bay,  is  a sleepy,  antique- 
looking old  burgh,  with  several  buildings  dating  back  before 
the  Revolution,  and  a general  air  of  musty  tradition.  The 
new  town,  on  the  elevated  ground  encircling  the  old  part,  and 
on  the  ocean  shore  forming  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
island,  is  the  fashionable  Newport.  Here  are  the  magnificent, 
broad,  hard,  smooth  and  tree-bordered  avenues,  brilliant  each 
afternoon  with  processions  of  stylish  equipages ; here  are  the 
splendid  villas  and  the  elegant  cottages  which  the  wealthy 
Summer  residents  from  New  York  and  Boston  yearly  occupy; 
here  is  the  abode  of  the  society  which  gives  Newport  its  chief- 
est  charm.  It  is  not  a place  for  a visit  of  a week  or  so,  like 
Saratoga  or  Long  Branch.  One  doesn’t  get  into  the  ways  of 
the  habitues  in  that  time,  and  one  needs  to  visit  Newport 
often,  and  stay  a long  time,  to  become  familiar  with  its  attrac- 
tions and  to  enjoy  its  advantages. 

The  Sound  Trip  to  New  York. 

But  we  have  no  time  to  revel  in  the  delights  even  of  New- 
port, and  whether  we  have  come  hither  by  boat  from  Fall  River, 


TO  UR  IS  TS*  HA  NDBOOK, 


19 


or  being  delayed  have  taken  the  later  through  express  to 
Newport,  we  must  be  promptly  on  board  our  splendid  craft 
which  is  impatiently  snorting  at  her  moorings.  At  last  we 
are  off,  and  steaming  out  of  the  harbor,  between  Goat  Island 
(the  seat  of  the  United  States  naval  torpedo  station),  and  Fort 
Adams,  on  a point  partially  enclosing  the  harbor,  we  pass 
between  Rhode  and  Conanicut  Islands,  into  the  Atlantic. 
Rounding  Point  Judith,  famed  in  the  past  for  rough  weather 
and  universally  seasick  passengers,  but  now,  with  immense 
steamers  and  the  highest  degree  of  comfort,  little  feared,  we 
skirt  along  the  coast  of  the  mainland,  with  the  state  of  Rhode 
Island  on  both  sides  of  us,  which  seeming  paradox  is  ex- 
plained by  the  fact  that  while  the  state  proper  lies  to  the 
north,  Block  Island,  noted  for  its  codfishery,  and  belonging 
to  the  same  gorgeous  little  State,  lies  to  the  southward  some 
ten  miles.  Soon  we  pass  Fisher’s  Island  on  the  right  and 
Long  Island  begins  to  overlap  us  on  the  far  left.  We  pass 
the  mouths  of  the  Thames  and  the  Connecticut,  and  lay  our 
course  straight  up  the  Sound,  arriving  in  the  East  River  at 
early  dawn,  and  at  our  pier,  No.  28  North  River,  about  sun- 
rise. From  New  York  up  the  Hudson,  our  route  as  is  des- 
cribed in  Chapter  II. 

The  Norwich  Line  to  Saratoga. 

By  the  Norwich  line  of  steamers,  a very  direct  and  easy 
route  is  afforded  us  from  the  Hub  to  the  metropolis.  For  in- 
formation, tickets  or  staterooms,  we  shall  apply  at  the  office  of 
the  line,  219  Washington  Street,  where  we  shall  find  every  re- 
quired courtesy  and  facility,  and  sometime  before  6 P.  M.,  if 
we  propose  to  go  via  New  York  and  New  England  Railroad, 
or  before  5 : 30  P.  M.,  if  we  go  via  Boston  and  Albany,  we 
shall  be  on  board  the  cars.  By  the  latter  course,  we  go  direct 
to  Worcester,  thence  over  the  Norwich  and  Worcester  Divis- 
ion of  the  New  York  and  New  England,  through  Auburn, 
Oxford  and  Webster,  Mass.,  and  Thompson,  Conn.,  to  Put- 
nam, Conn.,  61  miles  from  Boston,  where  the  train  by  the 


20 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK, 


main  line  of  the  New  York  and  New  England  joins  us,  and 
whence  we  proceed  to  Norwich  and  New  London.  By  the 
New  York  and  New  England,  we  leave  the  station,  foot 
of  Summer  Street,  at  6 P.  M.,  and  trundling  across  the 
famous  South  Boston  flats,  on  a causeway,  we  dash  through 
South  Boston  in  a deep  trough  underneath  the  streets  and 
at  the  very  roots  of  the  houses,  cross  the  South  Bay  and 
the  line  of  the  Old  Colony,  traverse  the  Dorchester  District 
in  a different  direction  and  further  inland  than  the  Old  Colo- 
ny, passing  the  Stoughton  Street,  Bird  Street,  Mount  Bow- 
doin,  Dorchester  and  Mattapan  stations,  before  we  get  outside 
the  city  limits.  All  these  stations  are  in  the  midst  of  delight- 
ful rural  scenery  and  have  neat  and  attractive  station  houses 
and  tasteful  surroundings.  Hyde  Park,  a station  in  the  new 
and  flourishing  town  of  the  same  name,  eight  miles  out,  comes 
next,  and  then  Readville,  in  the  same  town,  where  the  line 
crosses  that  of  the  Boston  and  Providence.  Then  come  Elm- 
wood, Springvale  and  Ellis  stations,  all  in  the  town  of  Ded- 
ham and  all  within  thirteen  miles  of  Boston.  Dedham,  the 
shire  town  of  Norfolk  county,  is  a quiet  old  borough  with  a 
•considerable  village  in  which  stands  the  elegant  court-house. 
In  the  township  are  several  factories,  power  for  which  is  af- 
forded by  “Mother  Brook”  so-called,  though  it  is  really  not  a 
Lrook,  but  a canal,  and  the  oldest  one  on  the  continent.  It 
was  made  in  1640,  and  its  design  was  to  increase  the  naviga- 
ble facilities  of  Neponset  River  by  diverting  into  it  part  of  the 
waters  of  the  Charles.  It  is  three  miles  long,  with  60  feet  fall. 
Norwood,  in  the  town  of  the  same  name,  formerly  South  Ded- 
ham, Everett’s,  Winslow’s  and  Tilton’s  stations  are  successive- 
ly passed  in  the  next  four  miles.  All  are  thriving  suburban 
villages,  possessing  much  rural  beauty,  and  all  are  largely 
inhabited  by  people  doing  business  in  Boston.  Next  comes 
Walpole, 19  miles  from  Boston,  where  the  Mansfleld  and  Fram- 
ingham Division  of  the  Boston,  Clinton  and  Fitchburg  Rail- 
road crosses  our  track  and  affords  through  connections  with 
Providence,  New  Bedford,  Lowell  and  the  north.  Next  comes 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK.  2 1 

thet  own  of  Norfolk,  formerly  North  Wrentham,  noted  for  its 
straw  factories,  with  the  several  stations  of  Campbell’s,  Nor- 
folk and  City  Mills.  Franklin  is  next,  27  miles  from  Boston, 
a town  named  for  the  immortal  “Poor  Richard,”  and  by  him 
presented  with  a valuable  library.  Wadsworth  is  the  next 
station,  and  then  Mill  River  Junction,  33  miles  from  Boston, 
a business  centre  of  some  importance  from  the  fact  of  the 
Woonsocket  Division, — which  leaves  Boston  from  the  Boston 
& Albany  Depot,  and  pursues  a route  through  Brookline, 
Newton,  Needham,  Medfield,  Medway  and  Bellingham — here 
crosses  the  main  line,  and  affords  connection  with  the  great 
manufacturing  village  of  Woonsocket,  just  over  the  Rhode 
Island  line.  Our  next  station  is  Blackstone,  36  miles  from 
Boston,  an  important  manufacturing  village,  just  across  the 
river  (and  the  State  line)  from  Woonsocket.  Here  the  Provi- 
dence and  Worcester  Railroad  crosses  our  line,  and  affords  yet 
another  set  of  through  connections.  Our  course  now  turns 
slightly  to  the  northward,  and  we  skim  along  through  the 
southernmost  towns  of  Worcester  county,  Blackstone,  Ux- 
bridge and  Douglas,  with  the  stations  of  Millville,  Ironstone, 
East  Douglas,  and  Douglas,  all  inside  of  50  miles  from  the 
Hub. 

Througli  Rliode  Island  and  into  Connecticut. 

Then  we  trend  southwest  again,  cut  off  a tiny  corner  of  the 
northwestern  town  of  Rhode  Island,  Burrillville,  and  cross 
into  Connecticut,  entering  the  northeastern  town  of  that 
Commonwealth,  Thompson.  East  Thompson  is  the  station, 
and  hence  a branch  18  miles  long  runs  northwest  through 
Webster  and  Dudley  to  Southbridge,  Mass.,  connecting  at 
Webster  with  the  Norwich  and  Worcester  division.  Our 
route  next  takes  us  through  Thompson  and  Mechanicsville  to 
Putnam,  59  miles  from  Boston.  Here  the  Norwich  and  Wor- 
cester Division  crosses  the  main  line,  and  here  is  a large  and 
commodious  station,  with  all  facilities  for  the  comfort  of  pas- 
sengers waiting  for  trains,  and  a good  restaurant  where  an 


22 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


excellent  dinner  can  be  procured  when  desired.  From  Put- 
nam the  main  road  runs  by  Pomfret,  Abington,  Eliot’s, 
Hampton,  Goshen,  and  North  Windham  stations,  among  the 
most  wild  and  romantic  scenery  of  Tolland  County,  to  Wil- 
liamantic,  the  great  railroad  centre  of  Eastern  Connecticut. 
Here  the  New  London  Northern  Railroad  from  New  London, 
Conn.,  to  Grout’s  Corner,  Mass.,  the  Hartford,  Pxovidence 
and  Fishkill  Railroad  from  Providence  to  Waterbury,  Conn., 
(which  is  designed  to  be  one  division  of  the  New  York  and 
New  England  through  line)  and  the  New  Haven,  Middletown 
and  Willimantic  Railroad,  which  forms  a direct  connection 
with  the  New  York,  New  Haven  and  Hartford  Railroad,  and 
New  Haven,  and  thus  completes  the  New  York  and  Boston 
Air  Line,  (all  rail.) 

From  Putnam  to  Norwich. 

But  our  course  does  not  take  us  to  Willimantic,  this  time, 
as  we  turn  to  the  left  at  Putnam,  onto  the  track  of  the  Nor- 
wich and  Worcester  Division,  which,  coming  from  Worcester, 
26  miles  north,  through  the  towns  of  Auburn,  Oxford  and 
Webster,  Mass.,  and  Thompson,  Conn.,  now  continues  to  the 
south  through  the  town  of  Killingly,  noted  for  Indian  legends 
and  traditions  of  the  old  colonial  days.  It  is  a rich  manufac- 
turing town,  having  large  woolen  and  cotton  mills  at  Days- 
ville  and  at  Danielsonville,  which  latter  is  the  principal  village 
of  the  town,  where  two  or  three  weekly  papers  are  published, 
and  where  the  arrival  of  a train  brings  together  nearly  the 
entire  floating  population  at  the  station.  Wauregan  comes 
next,  a small  station,  the  village  being  some  distance  west,  on 
the  Quinebaug  river,  which  furnishes  power  for  the  large 
Wauregan  cotton  mills,  and  near  the  pretty  Quinebaug  Pond, 
three  miles  long,  connected  with  which  is  a legend  that  once 
in  seven  years,  at  midnight,  a pillar  of  fire  (known  as  the 
Narragansetts’  fishing  light),  rises  over  the  centre  of  the  lake. 
The  object  of  this  apparition  is  not  stated  by  the  old  settlers 
who  claim  to  have  seen  it,  but  as  they  still  live,  apparently  it 


TO  UK  IS  TS'  If  A ND  BOOK. 


23 


is  not  a cian<yerous  omen.  We  now  pass  into  the  town  of 
Plainfield,  with  Central  Village,  a large  cotton  manufacturing 
hamlet,  as  our  first  stopping  place,  and  then  Plainfield  Junc- 
tion, iS  miles  from  Putnam,  78  from  Boston,  where  we  cross 
the  Hartford,  Providence  and  Fishkill  Railroad.  At  Jewett 
City,  a small  station  six  miles  further  on,  we  cross  the  Quine- 
baug  river,  and  soon  after  pass  through  a tunnel  300  feet  long, 
cut  from  the  solid  rock.  Greenville,  eight  miles  further  south- 
west, is  a large  manufacturing  village  on  the  Shetucket  river, 
which  we  have  crossed  a mile  or  two  back,  near  the  point 
where  the  Quinebaug  empties  into  it.  From  this  point  we 
follow  the  right  bank  of  the  Shetucket,  two  miles,  and  arrive 
in  Norwich,  the  principal  city  of  eastern  Connecticut,  and  the 
shiretown  of  New  London  County. 

Norwich,  its  Peculiarities  and  its  Beauties. 

Norwich  is  94  miles  from  Boston,  and  is  built  on  a lofty 
promontory  between  the  Shetucket  and  Yantic  rivers,  which 
here  unite  to  form  the  majestic  Thames,  and  on  the  alluvial 
ground  at  the  foot  of  the  steep  acclivity.  In  its  location  and 
configuration  Norwich  much  resembles  Quebec.  No  other 
place  on  this  continent  probably  has  a more  commanding 
situation,  or  a more  delightful  overlook.  In  the  construction 
of  the  town,  also,  Norwich  is  much  like  Quebec,  barring  the 
wall  and  the  citadel  of  the  latter.  The  commercial  streets  run 
along  the  Shetucket  front,  whose  wharves  are  crowded  with 
shipping ; the  residence  streets  are  terraced  one  above  another 
on  the  overhanging  bluff,  to  which  zig-zag  lines  of  streets 
lead  up  like  the  “switchbacks”  on  a coal  railroad.  The 
promontory  points  to  the  south  and  from  its  summit,  crowned 
with  handsome  villas,  the  view  of  the  noble  Thames  which 
expands  from  its  very  foot  and  stretches  way  to  the  Sound, 
fifteen  miles  south,  is  charming  and  grand.  Norwich,  in 
consequence  of  its  site  at  the  head  of  the  navigable  waters 
of  the  Thames  has  an  extensive  commerce  with  coastwise 
ports  and  with  the  West  Indies,  while  by  its  propinquity 


24 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


to  the  great  cotton  manufactories  of  Eastern  Connecticut 
it  enjoys  a large  trade  in  those  articles.  From  the  low  ground 
on  the  river  banks,  near  which  the  railway  station  stands,  the 
view  of  the  town  is  confused  and  meagre ; one  seems  to  be 
looking  up  into  an  overhanging  mass  of  houses,  with  no 
regularity,  but  as  one  becomes  acquainted  with  the  place, 
and  traverses  its  entire  extent,  it  is  seen  to  be  a symmetrical 
and  pleasing  city  of  some  20,000  inhabitants,  making  consid- 
erable pretension  to  architectural  beauty,  and  abounding  in 
delightful  walks  and  drives.  By  reason  of  its  peculiar  config- 
uration, Norwich  is  one  of  the  most  oddly  built  cities,  in  its 
business  portion,  of  any  in  the  world,  and  has  been  made  the 
subject  of  no  end  of  jokes  on  this  account.  Norwich  is  the 
original  town  where  the  people  of  one  street  look  from  their 
kitchen  doors  down  their  neighbor’s  chimneys  on  the  next 
street  and  see  what  they  are  cooking  for  breakfast ; where  a 
man  steps  out  of  his  garret  window  into  another  man’s  back 
door  yard,  and  where  the  cellar  of  one  house  drains  on  to* 
the  roof  of  the  next  below.  Without  joking,  some  business 
blocks  which  stand  three  stories  high  on  Main  street  are  six 
stories  high  on  the  next  street,  if  they  run  through  the  block, 
as  some  do;  while  on  the  other,  or  up-hill  side  of  Main  street, 
a block  three  or  four  stories  high  is  so  built  into  the  solid 
rock  of  the  hill  that  you  have  to  go  up  two  flights  of  stairs 
before  you  see  daylight  at  the  rear,  and  the  back  yard  is  only 
accessible  from  the  upper  floor.  As  may  be  supposed,  streets 
do  not  run  up  and  down  the  hill,  but  around  its  side,  gradu- 
ally climbing  upward,  and  instead  of  cross-streets,  there  are 
flights  of  stairs  by  which  pedestrians  get  from  one  street  to 
another,  while  vehicles  have  to  take  the  long  gradients  and 
sharp  angles  by  which  the  streets  communicate  at  their  ex- 
tremities. Climbing  above  the  business  portion  of  the  city, 
Washington  street  runs  along  the  west  side  of  the  promon- 
tory, overlooking  the  Yantic  and  bordered  on  either  side  by 
magnificent  lawns,  on  which,  far  back  from  the  street,  stand 
the  stately  mansions  of  the  merchant  princes.  Broadway 


TO  UR  IS  TS*  HA  NDBOOIC. 


25 


extends  from  the  business  center,  nearly  parallel  with  Wash- 
ington street,  but  on  the  eastern  side,  and  is  less  imposing  in 
the  matter  of  residences,  and  more  like  a city  street,  and  both 
open  upon  the  parade,  (also  known  as  Williams  Park)  a 
splendid  field  on  the  level  plateau  surmounting  the  bluffs, 
bordered  with  magnificent  elms,  and  surrounded  by  elegant 
residences,  among  which  is  that  of  ex-Senator  Lafayette  S. 
Foster  and  the  old  home  of  General  Williams  of  Revolu- 
tionary fame.  On  one  side  stands  the  noble  building  of  the 
Free  Academy  which  possesses  a wide  reputation,  and  broad 
streets  diverge  in  various  directions.  Sachem  street  leads  to 
the  Falls  of  the  Yantic,  formerly  a wild  and  romantic  cataract, 
through  a water  worn  gorge  in  the  eternal  rock,  and  over 
curiously  grouped  and  massive  boulders.  The  diversion  of 
the  water  of  the  river  by  a dam  above  into  an  artificial  chan- 
nel, has  left  the  rocky  foundation  of  the  Falls  bare,  except  in 
seasons  of  freshets,  yet  the  spot  is  always  well-worthy  a visit. 
But  though  the  demands  of  business  have  thus  marred  the 
beauty  of  the  Falls,  they  have  widely  increased  their  financial 
value.  The  artificial  channel  furnishes  power  for  a score  of 
extensive  factories  which  manufacture  paper,  cottons,  rubber 
goods  and  almost  every  thing  else,  and  form  the  nucleus  of 
the  thriving  Falls  Village.  Near  the  Falls  is  the  old  Indian 
cemetery,  the  burial-place  for  many  ages  of  the  Mohegan 
chiefs.  Here  is  the  monument  to  Uncas,  the  famous  Mohegan 
Sachem,  the  steady  friend  of  the  whites,  and  with  his  army 
of  trained  warriors  their  most  efficient  ally  against  the  Pe- 
quots,  Narragansetts  and  King  Phillip’s  confederation.  Uncas 
was  originally  a Pequot  chief,  who  in  1634  revolted  against 
the  Sachem  Sassacus  and  joined  the  Mohegans.  They  made 
him  Sachem  and  he  brought  the  nation  to  the  highest  point 
among  the  tribes,  and  after  ruling  50  years,  died  in  1683.  In 
1640  he  sold  the  site  of  the  present  city  to  the  colonists,  for 
£70.  Near  Greenville,  which  is  reached  by  horse-cars  from 
Norwich,  is  the  Sachem’s  Plain,  where  Uncas  with  500  Mohe- 
gans defeated  and  killed  Miantonomah,  Sachem  of  the  Nar- 


26 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


ragansetts  with  900  warriors.  Five  miles  south  of  Norwich 
is  Mohegan,  the  site  of  the  fortress  of  Uncas,  and  here  live 
the  few  half-breeds  who  represent  the  famous  tribe. 

From  Norwich,  to  New  York. 

From  Norwich  to  the  New  York  steamers,  there  are  two 
routes,  sometimes  one  and  sometimes  the  other  being  used. 
By  the  first  we  cross  the  Shetucket  near  the  upper  end  of  the 
city,  and  proceed  down  the  east  bank  of  the  Thames,  through 
portions  of  the  towns  of  Preston  and  Ledyard  to  Allyn’s 
Point  in  the  latter  town,  where  are  extensive  wharves  and 
depots  for  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Norwich  and  New  York 
Transportation  Company’s  fine  steamers^^City  of  Boston  and 
City  of  New  York.  These  boats  rank  among  the  finest  and 
swiftest  on  the  sound,  and  their  course  being  entirely  ‘‘in- 
side” and  sheltered  by  Long  Island,  the  route  is  a favorite 
with  many  tor  whom  seasickness  has  terrors.  The  other 
means  of  reaching  the  boats  is  via  New  London  Northern 
Railroad  to  New  London,  thirteen  miles,  along  the  west  bank 
of  the  Thames.  The  road  follows  the  waterside  closely, 
running  at  the  foot  of  the  steep  and  lofty  banks  most  of  the 
way,  and  the  view  from  the  windows  at  the  left  side  of  the 
train  is  of  surpassing  beauty.  The  stations  are  Thamesville, 
Waterford  and  New  London,  at  which  last  place  the  train 
runs  down  upon  a long  covered  wharf,  alongside  which  lie 
the  boats. 

New  London  is  a city  of  about  10,000  inhabitants,  which 
has  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world,  and  in  the  days  of 
the  whale  fishery  was  only  second  to  New  Bedford  as  an  oil 
city.  Of  late  it  is  one  the  sleepiest  of  decayed  seaports,  its 
wealth  being  mainly  that  accumulated  by  the  whaling  masters 
of  a generation  ago,  safely  invested.  Its  location,  on  a broad, 
gentle  slope,  is  naturally  very  fine,  and  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  city  there  are  many  fine  residences  and  some  handsome 
public  buildings,  but  the  business  portion  of  the  town  is  old- 
fashioned,  out-of-repair,  dirty  and  unattractive.  The  fishing 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK. 


27 


and  coasting  interests  and  railroad  connections  are  the  princi- 
pal sources  of  the  prosperity  (such  as  it  is)  of  New  London. 
It  is  a delightful  resort  in  summer,  despite  the  drawbacks 
mentioned,  by  reason  of  its  natural  advantages.  The  aristo- 
cratic Pequot  House  stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Thames,  some 
three  miles  south  of  the  city,  near  the  lighthouse,  and  other 
summer  hotels  are  found  in  vicinity.  Sailing,  fishing  and 
bathing  are  of  the  best  and  easily  attainable,  and  steamers 
run  daily  to  Watch  Hill,  Norwich,  Sag  Harbor  and  Hartford. 
Between  the  city  and  the  mouth  of  the  river,  on  a projecting 
rocky  peninsula,  stands  Fort  Trumbull,  a massive  granite  for- 
tress, manned  by  a small  garrison,  and  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river  in  the  town  of  Groton,  is  a strong  water  battery.  Near 
this  point  on  the  bights  is  the  site  of  old  Fort  Griswold, 
captured  in  1781  by  a detachment  of  the  force  which  under 
the  renegade  Benedict  Arnold  burned  New  London.  The 
fort  was  defended  valorously  by  150  militiamen  under  Colonel 
Ledyard,  who  on  surrendering  his  sword  to  the  tory  Captain 
Bloomfield,  was  run  through  the  body  with  it,  and  the  Ameri- 
can prisoners  were  all  at  once  massacred  by  their  cowardyl 
captors.  The  story  is  familiar  to  every  child  who  has  studied 
the  History  of  the  United  States.  On  the  spot  stands  a fine 
granite  shaft  127  feet  high  and  26  feet  square  at  the  base;  a 
monument  to  the  slaughtered  militia.  Above  the  city  is  the 
newest  of  our  navy  yards,  secured  by  the  Connecticutd  elega- 
tion  in  Congress  only  after  a severe  struggle,  and  still  in  a 
rudimentary  state.  Besides  the  New  London  Northern,  the 
Shore  Line  Division  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  and  Hart- 
fort|Railroad  has  its  eastern  terminus  here,  forming  a link  in 
the  Shore  Line  route  from  Boston  to  the  metropolis.  A ferry 
across  the  Thames  to  Groton  conveys  the  cars  back  and  forth. 

Whichever  route  we  take  from  Norwich,  we  will  suppose 
ourselves  safely  on  board  the  steamer  and  passing  out  of  the 
Thames  river  by  Fort  Trumbull  and  the  tall  lighthouse,  into 
the  Sound.  Moving  to  the  right,  we  pursue  the  same  general 
course  as  has  been  described  for  the  other  lines,  and  reach 


28 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


New  York  early  in  the  morning,  where  the  Hudson  river 
steamer  is  taken  for  Albany,  as  will  be  narrated. 

The  Shore  Line  Route  to  Saratoga. 

The  Boston  and  New  York  Shore  Line  is  another  favorite 
route  from  the  Hub  to  the  great  city  of  Gotham,  and  by  many 
travellers  preferred  to  any  other.  We  take  the  cars  at  the 
magnificent  Boston  and  Providence  station,  and  pursue  the 
same  course  to  Stonington  as  has  been  laid  out  in  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  Stonington  steamboat  line.  From  Stonington  we 
pass  through  Mystic,  a small  but  thriving  village,  whose 
principal  industry  is  ship-building.  West  Mystic,  Noank, 
Pequonnock  Switch  and  Groton,  to  New  London,  a distance 
of  twelve  miles.  Near  Mystic  are  Pequot  Hill  and  Fort 
Hill,  ancient  strongholds  of  the  Pequot  Indians,  who  caused 
our  colonial  forefathers  so  much  trouble.  The  former  for- 
tress was  stormed  in  1637  ^ handful  of  settlers  and  a 

force  of  Mohegans  under  Uncas  and  Narragansetts  under 
Miantonomah  (this  was  before  these  sachems  had  fallen 
out)  and  the  six  hundred  Pequot  warriors  were  put  to  the 
sword.  The  view  of  the  Thames  river,  the  Sound  and 
the  neighboring  country  from  Fort  Hill  is  particularly  fine. 
At  Groton  we  get  a fine  view  of  the  monument  on  the  right, 
and  soon  the  cars  run  down  a gradual  incline  upon  the  im- 
mense ferry-boat  which  is  in  waiting  to  convey  us  across  the 
river  to  New  London.  A large  dining-hall  is  arranged  on  the 
upper  deck,  over  the  cars,  and  a capital  hot  dinner  is  served 
to  passengers  who  desire  during  the  transit.  From  New  Lon- 
don we  follow  the  shore  of  Long  Island  Sound,  getting 
occasional  fine  land-and-water-scapes  from  the  windows  on 
the  left.  The  shores  are  mostly  low  and  sedgy,  but  there  are 
some  bold,  rocky  projections,  and  groves  of  fine  trees.  We 
pass  through  the  towns  of  Waterford,  East  Lyme  and  Old 
Lyme  (stations,  Waterford,  East  Lyme,  South  Lyme,  Black- 
ball, Lyme  and  Connecticut  river)  crossing  at  East  Lyme  the 
Niantic  Bay,  an  arm  of  the  Sound,  on  which  is  the  beautiful 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


29 


village  of  Niantic,  much  frequented  in  summer,  and  provided 
with  several  good  hotels  and  boarding  houses.  Boating  and 
fishing  are  the  principal  attractions,  and  marvellous  stories 
are  told  of  the  numbers  of  tautog  and  striped  bass  taken 
here. 


An  Historic  Old  Town. 

We  cross  the  Connecticut  river  by  a covered  truss  bridge  and 
enter  the  famous  old  town  of  Saybrook,  at  the  station  of  the 
same  name  ; the  Connecticut  Valley  Railroad  crosses  our  track, 
following  the  course  of  the  Connecticut  river  from  Hartford 
to  its  mouth,  at  Saybrook  Point,  near  which  is  its  terminal 
station  of  Fenwick  Hall,  a fine  new  summer  hotel,  with  seve- 
ral handsome  outlying  cottages,  and  splendid  views  of  river, 
Sound  and  shore,  excellent  bathing,  fishing  and  sailing  facili- 
ties, direct  railroad  communication,  and  the  quiet  elm  shaded 
streets  of  the  venerable  hamlet  of  Old  Saybrook  near  by. 
Saybrook  Point  was  the  site  of  an  old  fort  built  in  1635,  and 
which  was  obliterated  by  the  cutting  through  of  the  railroad. 
In  1636,  Colonel  Fenwick  came  from  England  and  took 
command,  bringing  with  him,  his  wife  who  died  in  1648, 
and  whose  grave,  marked  by  a rude  stone,  remained  until 
1872,  when  the  ashes  of  Lady  Fenwick  were  disinterred  with 
considerable  ceremony,  conveyed  to  the  cemetery  and  depo- 
sited beneath  a monument.  Saybrook  was  a place  of  note  in 
colonial  days,  and  the  old  fort  did  much  service  in  repelling 
hostile  fleets.  Yale  College  was  at  first  located  in  Saybrook, 
being  chartered  in  1701  and  holding  its  first  fifteen  “com- 
mencements” here.  In  1708  the  celebrated  Saybrook  Plat- 
• form  was  drawn  up  here,  for  the  guidance  of  the  college.  We 
next  pass  through  Westbrook,  Clinton,  Madison  and  Guil- 
ford, quiet  farming  towns,  with  watering  places  on  the  shores 
of  the  Sound,  and  come  to  Stony  Creek,  oif  which  are  the 
Thimble  Islands,  famous  in  tradition,  and  romantic  in  scen- 
ery. 


30 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


The  Komantie  Thimble  Islands. 

Stony  Creek  has  several  small  summer  hotels,  and  a fleet  of 
fine  yachts  lies  in  its  little  haven,  for  the  accommodation  of 
sailing  parties  or  of  visitors  to  the  islands.  These  Thimble 
Islands  are  chiefly  owned  by  New  York  and  New  Haven 
people,  who  have  cottages  of  more  or  less  simplicity  upon 
them  for  their  vacation  residences.  The  group  numbers  365, 
it  is  said,  and  all  are  rocky,  bold  prominences,  rising  out  of 
deep  water,  and  mostly  covered  with  trees.  The  channels 
between  the  islands,  by  their  depth  of  water  and  being 
sheltered  from  the  winds  by  the  islands,  afford  a safe  haven  to 
yachts  and  fishing  vessels  in  storms,  and  many  sail  nightly 
make  harbor  among  the  isles.  The  pirate  Captain  Kidd  fre- 
quently put  in  here,  and  Money  island,  the  largest  of  the 
group,  has  been  dug  all  over  for  the  treasure  he  is  fabled  to 
have  buried  here.  A small  hotel  has  been  built  here  by  the 
owner,  and  most  of  the  island  laid  out  in  building  lots  which 
have  been  bought  up  and  occupied  with  small  cottages.  On 
Pot  Island,  the  loftiest  and  best  wooded  of  the  group,  is  another 
summer  hotel,  where  good  living,  pure  air,  the  best  of  bath- 
ing and  excellent  views  of  the  Sound  can  be  had  at  a low 
price.  The  oysters  which  are  taken  from  the  waters  of  Stony 
Creek  harbor  and  among  the  islands,  are  of  wonderful  size 
and  flavor,  and  they  form  the  staple  of  every  meal  if  desired. 
Branford  is  the  next  station  to  Stony  Creek,  and  is  the  point 
of  departure  for  several  popular  summer  resorts,  Indian  Neck, 
Pine  Orchard,  Branford  Point  and  Double  Beach,  at  each  of 
which  are  one  or  more  comfortable  and  moderate  priced  hotels. 
We  next  pass  through  East  Haven,  cross  Saltonstall  Lake, 
(whence  the  city  of  New  Haven  procures  the  most  of  its  ice, 
and  where  a part  of  the  Yale  College  class  races  are  rowed) 
the  Quinnipiack  river,  and  passing  through  Fairhaven,  (the 
great  oyster  mart  of  the  section,  and  now  one  of  the  wajrds  of 
New  Haven)  soon  roll  into  the  under-ground  station  in  the 
heart  of  the  Elm  City. 


TOURISTS'  HAND  BOOK. 


I^ew  Haven  and  its  Environs. 

New  Haven  is  the  largest  city  in  Connecticut,  and  up  to 
1873,  when  Hartford  was  very  sensibly  made  the  sole  capital, 
divided  the  honors  of  the  seat  of  government  with  that  city. 
It  has  almost  60,000  inhabitants,  is  a thriving  manufacturing 
and  commercial  town,  and  is  famous  for  its  magnificent  elm 
trees,  which  line  nearly  every  street.  In  the  center  of  the 
city  is  the  Green,  a handsome  public  square,  surrounded  by 
elms  and  containing  the  old  Center  church,  Trinity  church 
and  the  North  church,  all  ancient  and  venerable,  and  in 
their  rear,  on  a gentle  rise,  the  Old  State  House,  now  useless, 
a shabby  old  structure  of  brick  and  plaster,  in  the  Doric  style 
of  architecture.  Chapel  street,  the  main  business  avenue, 
runs  along  one  side  of  the  Green,  Elm  street  on  the  oppo- 
site, and  they  are  intersected  at  right  angles  by  Church 
street  (on  which  stands  the  splendid  City  Hall),  and  College 
street  completing  the  sides  of  the  square,  which  is  the  size 
of  four  city  blocks.  Temple  street,  a broad  thoroughfare, 
bordered  by  grand  elms  whose  branches  unite  in  a splendid 
gothic  arch  above  it,  traverses  the  Green  midway  between 
Church  and  College  streets.  Above  College  street  are  the 
grounds  of  Yale  College  and  its  fine  and  extensive  buildings. 
This  famous  college,  removed  here  in  1717  from  Saybrook, 
is  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  learning  in  this  country,  and  its 
edifices  number  some  fifteen  large  structures,  besides  several 
small  society  buildings  and  those  of  the  Scientific,  Law, 
Medical  and  Theological  schools  connected  with  the  Univer- 
sity. The  Art  Gallery  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  exten- 
sive in  the  country,  and  the  museums,  reading  rooms  and 
other  accessories  are  fully  supplied  and  of  a high  order. 

Manufactures,  Suburbs,  and  Means  of  Transportation. 

The  manufactures  of  New  Haven  are  so  extensive  and 
varied  as  to  preclude  particular  mention  in  a work  of  this 
kind.  The  principal  are  firearms,  of  which  the  Winchester 


32 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


Repeating  Arms  Company  and  the  Whitney  Rifle  Company 
turn  out  immense  quantities;  church  and  parlor  organs, 
pianos,  carriages,  agricultural  implements,  hardware,  rail- 
road cars,  etc.,  etc.  The  city  also  enjoys  an  extensive  West 
India  and  coastwise  commerce,  and  is  a very  wealthy  and 
intellectual  city.  The  streets  abound  in  handsome  residences, 
nearly  all  of  which,  even  in  the  heart  of  the  town,  have  con- 
siderable grounds  around  them.  On  the  avenues  radiating 
from  the  business  centre,  are  many  splendid  mansions, 
notably  on  Hillhouse  avenue,  at  the  head  of  which  is  “Sa- 
chem’s Wood,”  a noble  villa,  surrounded  by  a park,  the 
property  of  the  Hillhouse  family.  There  is  a fine  drive  on 
the  east  side  of  the  bay,  at  the  head  of  which  the  city  stands, 
by  Forts  Hale  and  Worcester,  to  the  lighthouse,  five  miles 
from  the  city,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Sound.  Savin  Rock,  four 
miles  from  the  city,  at  the  west  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  bay 
is  another  resort.  The  road  thither  passes  through  the  quiet 
old  village  of  West  Haven.  The  rock  is  a bold  projection, 
near  which  is  a fine  beach,  with  a Summer  hotel.  East  Rock 
and  West  Rock,  some  two  miles  inland  from  the  city,  are 
lofty,  precipitous  masses  of  trap  rock,  rising  from  the  plain, 
from  the  summits  of  which  grand  views  are  obtained.  Horse 
cars  run  to  the  base  of  each,  and  they  are  much  visited. 
Near  West  Rock  is  Maltby  Park,  where  is  located  the  city 
water- works.  There  is  a fine  series  of  drive-ways  in  this  park, 
which  covers  some  800  acres.  Besides  the  Shore  Line  Divi- 
sion, the  main  line  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  and  Hart- 
ford Railroad,  the  New  Haven,  Middletown  and  Willimantic, 
the  New  Haven  and  Northampton,  or  Canal  Railroad,  and 
the  New  Haven  and  Derby  Railroad,  all  converge  in  the 
underground  station,  which  will  soon  be  a thing  of  the  past, 
as  the  New  York,  New  Haven  and  Hartford  Railroad  is  now 
building  near  the  basin  at  the  head  of  the  harbor,  a magnifi- 
cent depot,  which  will  be,  when  completed,  one  of  the  finest 
in  New  England.  Steamers  run  to  New  York  twice  daily, 
forming  still  another  route  to  the  metropolis,  and  small  boats 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK.  33 

ply  daily,  in  Summer,  to  the  various  resorts  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. 

From  New  Haven  to  New  York. 

From  New  Haven  we  travel  by  the  main  line  of  the  New 
York,  New  Haven  and  Hartford  railroad,  which  forms  with 
the  Boston  and  Albany  the  Express  Line ; with  the  New 
Haven,  Middletown  and  Willimantic  and  New  York  and  New 
England  the  Air  Line ; and  with  the  roads  by  which  we  have 
come  the  Shore  Line  — all  three  direct  all-rail  express  lines 
from  New  York  to  Boston.  By  whichever  route  he  comes 
from  Boston  the  traveller  is  transported  from  New  Haven 
over  the  one  trunk  line,  which,  rolling  out  of  the  depot  under- 
neath the  busy  streets  of  the  city,  skirts  the  shore  of  New 
Haven  bay  in  a southwesterly  direction,  passing  through 
West  Haven,  Milford  and  Stratford,  quiet  country  villages 
with  broad,  elm-shaded  streets.  We  cross  the  Housatonic  river, 
which  divides  the  two  last  named  towns,  and  are  soon  in 
Bridgeport,  the  fifth  city  in  population  of  Connecticut,  and 
one  of  the  most  extensive  manufacturing  centers  of  New  Eng- 
land. Here  are  the  sewing  machine  factories  of  Elias  Howe, 
Jr.,  and  Wheeler  & Wilson,  each  employing  several  hundred 
hands  and  turning  out  many  thousands  of  machines  every 
year;  a number  of  arms  and  ammunition  manufactories, 
clock  shops,  and  indeed  manufactories  of  nearly  all  sorts  of 
“ Yankee  notions.”  But  Bridgeport’s  chief  fame  is  that  it  is 
the  birthplace  of  P.  T.  Barnum  and  Tom  Thumb,  and  the 
former  has  a splendid  mansion,  Windermere,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  city,  overlooking  the  Seaside  Park,  with  its  fine 
esplanade  and  its  charming  view  of  the  Sound.  Bridgeport 
has  bi-daily  steamers  to  New  York,  and  the  Naugatuck  Rail- 
road runs  north-east  to  Waterbury,  62  miles,  and  the  Housa- 
tonic north  no  miles  to  Pittsfield,  Mass.  Bridgeport  is  18 
miles  from  New  Haven  and  178  from  Boston.  We  next  pass 
through  Fairfield,  an  ancient  and  quiet  seaside  village,  which 
is  rich  in  Indian  and  Revolutionary  tradition,  having  been 
2* 


34 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


burned  in  1779  by  Trjon’s  Hessian  Yagers,  returning  from  a 
raid  on  New  Haven.  Southport,  two  miles  further  along,  is 
chiefly  famous  for  an  Indian  fight  some  250  years  ago,  and 
has  done  nothing  notable  since.  Westport  is  a young  and 
vigorous  village  on  the  Naugatuck,  and  South  Norwalk,  14 
miles  from  Bridgeport  and  192  from  Boston,  with  its  neigh- 
boring village  of  Norwalk,  is  the  largest  place  between  Bridge- 
port and  New  York.  The  chief  manufactures  are  locks,  knobs 
and,  hats,  and  the  principal  other  trade,  oyster  raising  and 
shipping.  The  magnificent  million-dollar  palace  of  the  late 
Le  Grand  Lockwood  stands  near  the  village.  At  the  draw- 
bridge which  we  cross  just  before  reaching  the  station,  the 
fearful  accident  by  which  a train  was  precipitated  into  the  river, 
took  place,  and  caused  the  passage  of  the  law  now  enforced, 
compelling  the  stopping  of  all  trains  before  reaching  a draw- 
bridge. F rom  South  Norwalk,  the  Danbury  and  Norwalk  Rail- 
road runs  north  24  miles  to  Danbury,  the  great  hatting  village 
of  the  country  and  the  home  of  James  M.  Bailey,  the  Danbury 
News  man ; indeed  of  the  Danbury  News  itself.  Darien  and 
Noroton  come  next,  the  latter  being  the  site  of  Fitch’s  Home 
for  Soldiers’  Orphans,  founded  by  Benjamin  Fitch,  with  its 
fine  library  and  art  gallery.  Stamford,  200  miles  from  Boston 
and  34  from  New  York,  a very  handsome  village,  is  a great 
watering  place  with  wealthy  New  Yorkers,  and  their  cottages 
dot  the  hillsides  on  every  hand.  The  New  Canaan  Railroad 
runs  north-east  to  the  adjoining  town  of  the  Biblical  name,  a 
distance  of  eight  miles.  Like  old  Canaan,  it  is  a land  flow- 
ing with  milk  and  honey,”  or  would  be  if  bee-farming  were 
carried  on,  as  it  is  a great  cow  country.  From  Stamford  also, 
communication  is  had  with  New  York  by  steamer.  Cos  Cob, 
near  which  Edwin  Booth  has  a fine  villa ; Greenwich,  where 
Israel  Putnam  performed  his  daring  equestrian  feat  of  riding 
his  horse  down  stairs,  and  where  are  several  fine  churches 
and  the  famous  Americus  Club  house  of  the  Tammany  ring, 
are  next  passed,  and  then  we  cross  the  frontier  into  New  York 
State.  Port  Chester  is  the  first  station  in  the  Empire  State, 


TOURISTS'  If  AND  BOOR-. 


35 


;i  thriving  village  27  miles  from  New  York.  Rje  comes  next, 
then  Mamaroneck  and  New  Rochelle,  whence  the  Harlem 
River  Branch  diverges  slightly  from  the  main  line,  and  runs 
to  the  Harlem  river,  through  a number  of  the  villages  of  West 
Chester  County,  which  furnish  residences  for  many  New  York 
business  men.  Our  train  passes  rapidly  by  the  stations  of 
Pelhamville  and  Mount  Vernon,  whence  we  turn  south-west 
and  traverse  the  tracks  of  the  Harlem  Railroad,  passing 
through  the  upper  portion  of  New  York  City,  with  its  shanty- 
crowned  rocks,  on  which  a large  population  of  rag-pickers, 
pigs  and  goats  sustain  an  unenviable  existence ; soon  arrive 
at  the  numbered  streets,  and  after  a short  ride  draw  up  in  the 
magnificent  Grand  Central  station,  700  feet  long,  and  covering 
three  acres  of  ground.  It  extends  from  42d  to  45th  streets, 
and  half-way  from  Fourth  avenue  to  Madison  avenue.  It  is 
of  brick,  stone  and  iron,  with  several  lofty  domes,  and  miles 
of  tracks  inside  its  vast  enclosure.  Besides  our  own,  the 
Harlem  and  the  Hudson  River  trains  enter  and  leave  this 
depot,  and  from  its  vicinity  various  lines  of  horse  cars  and 
stages  can  be  taken  to  any  part  of  the  city,  or  we  can  charter 
a hack  direct  to  the  pier  of  the  Hudson  river  steamer  which  is 
to  convey  us  to  Albany. 

The  Boston  and  New  York  Express  Line. 

Another  much  frequented  route  from  Boston  is  by  the 
New  York  and  Boston  Express  Line,  over  the  Boston  and 
Albany  and  the  New  York,  New  Haven  and  Hartford  Rail- 
roads. Our  route  to  Springfield  is  described  under  the  head 
of  the  Boston  and  Albany  route.  From  Springfield,  we  turn 
south,  following  the  east  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  which 
spreads  out  from  half  a mile  to  a mile  wide  on  our  right, 
along  the  fertile  alluvial  meadows  of  Longmeadow,  the  staid 
and  quiet  village  being  on  the  high  blufts  to  our  left.  Below 
Longmeadow,  near  the  Enfield  Bridge  station,  and  the  old 
toll-bridge  across  the  Connecticut,  the  river  passes  over  a 
series  of  shallow  rapids  extending  for  several  miles  over  the 


36 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


red  sandstone  ledges  which  form  its  bed.  Near  the  upper  end 
of  these  rapids,  a wing-dam  is  thrown  across  the  river,  and 
diverts  the  water  into  a canal  on  the  western  side,  which  fur- 
nishes power  for  the  various  manufactories  at  Windsor  Locks, 
some  six  miles  below,  where  it  empties  into  the  river  by  a 
series  of  locks.  Light  draft,  flat-bottomed  steamers  and  scows 
by  means  of  this  canal  make  the  voyage  from  Hartford  to 
Springfield  with  coal,  stone,  etc.  Formerly  the  traiflc  was 
very  extensive,  and  embraced  also  the  transportation  of  pas- 
sengers by  two  or  three  daily  lines  of  steamers,  the  passage 
being  graphically  portrayed  by  Dickens  in  his  ‘‘  American 
Notes.”  The  passenger  travel  and  most  of  the  freighting  has 
been  monopolized  by  the  railroad,  of  late  years.  Thompson- 
ville,  nine  miles  from  Springfield,  and  107  miles  from  Boston, 
is  a busy  manufacturing  village  on  the  east  bank,  in  the  town 
of  Enfield.  Here  are  the  mills  of  the  Hartford  Carpet  Com- 
pany, the  largest  of  the  kind  in  the  country,  turning  out 
nearly  2,000,000  yards  annually.  In  this  town  of  Enfield,  the 
northernmost  of  Connecticut,  are  also  the  Hazard  Powder 
Works,  at  Hazardville,  and  the  famous  Shaker  community. 
At  Warehouse  Point,  four  miles  south,  we  cross  the  Con- 
necticut on  a splendid  iron  bridge,  built  in  England  and  set 
up  here  piecemeal  on  the  piers  of  the  old  bridge,  without 
interruption  to  travel,  in  1866.  We  soon  pass  through  the 
village  of  Windsor  Locks,  with  its  many  paper,  silk  and  iron 
mills,  cross  the  Farmington  river  on  a stone  bridge  of  seven 
arches,  pass  through  Windsor,  a handsome  old  town  of  great 
fame  in  Colonial  days,  and  now  a great  tobacco-raising  town, 
and  in  a short  time  enter  the  brown  stone  station  at  Hartford, 
26  miles  from  Springfield,  and  124  from  Boston. 

Hartford  and  Its  Environs. 

Hartford,  the  capital  of  Connecticut,  is  a beautiful  city  of 
40,000  inhabitants,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Little  River,  so-called, 
and  was  settled  by  the  Dutch  in  1633,  who  built  a fort  at  the^ 
mouth  of  the  Little  river,  on  a point  still  known  as  “Dutch 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


37 


Point.”  Three  years  later,  Thomas  Hooker,  a Puritan  pastor, 
led  his  little  flock  through  the  wilderness  from  Newtown,  and 
established  himself  here.  A little  log  church  was  built  near 
the  present  site  of  the  old  State  House,  and  was  the  prede- 
cessor of  a number  of  churches,  of  which  the  present  lineal 
descendant  is  the  old  Center  church  near  the  same  spot,  in 
the  burying  ground  of  which  rests  Hooker’s  body  under  a 
stone  table.  The  business  center  is  on  several  streets  parallel 
with  the  river,  and  intersected  by  streets  running  westward  to 
the  elevated  ground  beyond  the  railroad.  The  old  State  House 
stands  in  a small  square  at  the  junction  of  State  and  Main 
streets,  on  the  eastern  portion  of  which  the  United  States 
government  is  building  a post  otflce.  The  new  State  House, 
a magnificent  structure  of  granite  and  marble,  is  building  on 
the  gentle  slope  overlooking  the  City  Park,  the  Little  river 
and  the  railroad,  on  grounds  formerly  owned  by  Trinity  Col- 
lege, which  is  removing  to  higher  and  more  ample  grounds, 
on  the  hills  west  of  the  city.  The  college  is  a wealthy  Epis- 
copalian institution,  founded  in  1823.  The  old  buildings  were 
of  sandstone,  with  no  particular  architectural  beauty ; the  new 
edifices  will  be  worthy  the  college.  The  City  Park  is  a splen- 
did tract  of  45  acres,  bordered  by  the  Little  river  (also  called 
Park  river)  and  is  laid  out  in  the  highest  style  of  landscape 
gardening,  and  adorned  by  fountains,  statues  and  an  elevated 
stone  terrace.  The  splendid  bronze  statue  of  the  late  Bishop 
Brownell,  on  an  eminence  in  front  of  the  State  House,  the 
statue  of  Israel  Putnam,  and  that  to  Dr.  Welles,  the  discov- 
erer of  anaesthetics  are  its  principal  work  of  art. 

Hartford’s  Public  Buildings. 

In  strictly  public  buildings,  Hartford  has  few  of  which  to 
boast.  The  new  jail  in  the  northwest  part  of  the  city  is  one  of 
the  handsomest  of  them,  and  that  is  hardly  attractive  to  the 
ordinary  visitor.  The  Wadsworth  Athenaeum  on  Main  street 
near  the  Little  river  is  an  old,  castellated  structure,  with  a 
gray  mastic  front,  in  which  are  the  rooms  of  the  Connecticut 


38 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


Historical  Society,  including  a museum  of  curiosities,  chiefly 
dating  back  to  Revolutionary  and  colonial  times,  relics  of  In- 
dian wars,  things  that  belonged  to  Israel  Putnam,  the  bloody 
shirt  in  which  Colonel  Ledyard  was  slain,  pieces  of  the  Char- 
ter Oak,  etc.  Speaking  of  the  Charter  Oak,  every  other 
thing  you  see  or  hear  of  in  Hartford  is  “ Charter  Oak  ” some- 
thing or  other  — insurance  companies,  fire  engines,  eating 
houses,  saloons,  etc.  Mark  Twain  says  he  has  seen  enough 
“ genuine  wood  of  the  Charter  Oak”  to  build  a plank  road  to 
Salt  Lake  City,  and  he  doesn’t  exaggerate  much.  The  chair  of 
the  President  of  the  Senate  in  the  Old  State  House  is  made  of 
the  wood,  beautifully  garved,  the  museum  above  referred  to 
has  several  pieces,  and  at  least  one  family  in  town  has  a piano 
case  made  of  it.  And  yet,  the  spot  where  the  old  tree  stood 
is  marked  only  by  a round  marble  slab,  a foot  or  so  in  diame- 
ter on  Charter  Oak  avenue.  The  High  School  building  on 
Farmington  avenue  occupies  a sightly  acclivity,  overlooking 
the  Park  and  the  river,  as  well  as  the  railroad  and  a good 
share  of  the  city,  while  a little  northward,  the  Blind  Asylum 
on  Asylum  avenue,  stands  in  a fine  park,  embowered  in 
trees. 


Magnificent  Private  Residences. 

These  avenues  are  largely  appropriated  by  the  residences 
of  wealthy  citizens.  The  Hon.  Marshall  Jewell,  Postmaster 
General,  owns  a splendid  mansion  on  Asylum  avenue,  and 
Mark  Twain  has  the  oddest  of  costly  villas  on  Farmington 
avenue.  The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  is  on  Retreat  avenue  in 
the  southwestern  portion  of  the  city,  and  to  the  eastward,  on 
Wethersfield  avenue  is  the  magnificent  estate  of  Mrs.  Samuel 
Colt,  widow  of  the  great  fire  arms  inventor.  The  property 
comprises  a large  tract  of  land,  laid  out  as  a park,  with  build- 
ings for  every  conceivable  use  of  a city  mansion  and  suburban 
villa  combined ; conservatories,  pheasantry,  hot  houses,  gra- 
peries, and  the  like ; while  trees,  fountains  and  statuary  render 
the  grounds  among  the  finest  in  the  country.  Between  this 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK’, 


39 


splendid  estate  find  the  river  (from  whieh  it  is  divided  and  pro- 
tected hy  a dyke),  stretches  the  South  Meadows,  formerly  pas- 
turage, and  bought  very  cheap  by  Colonel  Colt  as  the  site  for 
his  factories  — now  the  property  of  the  Colt  Patent  Fire  Arms 
Company,  of  which  General  William  B.  Franklin  is  presi- 
dent. 


Manufactories  and  other  Business  Interests. 

On  this  vast  tract.  Colonel  Colt  laid  out  broad  avenues  and 
cross  streets,  surrounded  it  with  a dyke  to  keep  out  the  river 
in  time  of  freshets,  built  cottages  for  his  workmen,  buildings 
for  stores,  a public  hall,  and  in  fact,  laid  the  foundation  of  a 
complete  village.  His  death,  no  doubt,  somewhat  retarded 
the  progress  of  the  new  village,  but  it  is  still  a neat,  thriving 
and  comfortable  settlement,  where  most  of  the  workmen  in 
the  arms  factory  and  other  industries  connected  therewith 
reside.  On  this  territory,  Mrs.  Colt  has  built,  as  a memorial 
to  her  husband  and  deceased  children,  a splendid  free  church, 
of  brown  and  Ohio  stone,  which  for  beauty  of  architecture 
and  perfection  of  detail  is  probably  unequalled  by  any  church 
of  its  size  in  this  country.  The  entire  expenses  are  borne  by 
this  noble  lady,  who  is  as  good  as  she  is  wealthy,  and  is  uni- 
versally beloved  for  her  numberless  acts  of  benevolence  and 
Christian  charity.  Washington  street,  a broad,  handsome 
drive,  leading  south  from  Capitol  avenue,  is  bordered  on 
either  side  by  magnificent  residences,  fronted  by  green  and 
velvety  lawns.  In  winter  it  is  the  favorite  sleighing  ground 
of  the  city,  and  here  the  fast  ’uns  maybe  seen  of  an  afternoon, 
if  snow  be  on  the  ground.  In  its  wealth,  in  proportion  to 
population,  Hartford  stands  at  the  head  of  the  cities  of  the 
nation,  as  it  does  in  respect  to  business  buildings.  The 
Phoenix  Bank,  the  Connecticut  Mutual  Life,  the  Charter  Oak 
Life  and  the  Hartford  Fire  Insurance  Companies’  buildings 
are  among  the  largest  and  most  magnificent  and  can  cope 
with  any  in  the  country  The  insurance  business  is  pre- 
eminently Hartford’s  source  of  wealth,  though  trade,  com- 


40 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


merce  and  manufactures  are  largely  responsible  for  the  result. 
Besides  the  Colt  works,  the  Pratt  and  Whitney  Company, 
machinists,  the  Roper  Arms  Company,  the  Weed  Sewing 
Machine  Company,  the  Sharpe  Arms  Company  and  many 
other  manufactories  do  a thriving  business.  Steamers  run 
daily  to  New  York,  and  others  to  the  river  ports,  to  Sag  Har- 
bor, New  London,  etc.,  and  many  sailing  vessels  come  up 
the  river  to  this  port.  Of  railroads  centering  in  Hartford, 
there  are  the  New  York,  New  Haven  and  Hartford,  by  which 
we  have  come  and  by  which  we  pursue  our  course,  the  Hart- 
ford, Providence  and  Fishkill,  from  Providence  to  Waterbury, 
the  Connecticut  Valley  from  Hartford  to  Saybrook  Point,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Connecticut  river,  and  the  Connecticut 
Western  from  Hartford  to  Millerton,  where  it  connects  with 
the  Poughkeepsie  and  Eastern,  and  is  designed  to  form  a link 
in  one  of  the  through  western  lines.  Hartford  has  a fine 
opera  house,  seating  1800,  and  another  hall  in  which  theatri- 
cal entertainments,  concerts,  etc.,  are  given,  several  good 
hotels  and  all  the  characteristics  of  a live  city.  For  its  his- 
toric note,  the  reader  is  referred  to  any  first-class  history  of 
the  United  States. 

To  New  Haven  and  New  York. 

Having  thus  taken  a random  ramble  about  Hartford,  we  will 
return  to  the  stone  railway  station  and  take  passage  on  the 
next  train  south.  For  the  first  mile  or  so  our  route  follows 
the  curve  of  the  Little  river,  which  separates  the  track  from 
the  Pratt  and  Whitney,  Roper  and  other  machine  works.  We 
soon  reach  Parkville,  a hamlet  in  the  southwestern  outskirts 
of  the  city,  about  the  intersection  of  Park  street  with  the 
railroad,  near  which  is  the  Charter  Oak  Park,  a fine  enclosure 
with  race  track,  designed  for  agricultural  fairs  and  horse 
trots.  Four  miles  further  we  come  to  Newington,  where  the 
Hartford,  Providence  and  Fishkill  Railroad,  which  has  run 
on  the  same  track  with  us  since  leaving  Hartford,  branches 
off  to  the  right,  and  five  miles  more  bring  us  to  Berlin. 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


41 


Hence,  two  branches  diverge;  the  one  to  the  right  running 
to  New  Britain,  a young  but  thriving  city,  noted  for  its  manu- 
hictures  of  small  hardware,  tools,  etc.,  and  the  other  to  the 
left,  connecting  with  the  city  of  Middletown,  on  the  Con- 
necticut river,  15  miles  from  Hartford,  where  also  the  Con- 
necticut Valley  and  the  New  Haven,  Middletown  and  Willi- 
mantic  (Air  Line)  railroads  cross.  Middletown  is  a large,  quiet 
and  rather  old  fogy  place,  chiefly  noted  as  the  seat  of  Wes- 
leyan University,  the  chief  Methodist  college  of  the  north. 
The  next  stopping  place  is  Meriden,  a wide-awake,  bustling 
city,  the  chief  attractions  of  which  are  its  numerous  manufac- 
tories of  silver-plated  ware.  Fire  arms  are  also  made  here, 
and  the  State  Reform  School  is  pleasantly  located  on  a slope  in 
the  outskirts.  Three  miles  further,  or  145  from  Boston, 
comes  Yalesville,  a small  manufacturing  village;  then  Wal- 
lingford, noted  for  its  britannia  ware  manufacture  and  its 
being  the  home  of  a branch  of  the  celebrated  Oneida  Com- 
munity of  Free  Lovers.  The  train  next  traverses  a long 
stretch  of  white  sandy  plains,  useful,  no  doubt  in  holding  the 
world  together,  but  as  soil,  too  poor  to  raise  mullein.  The 
more  of  this  land  a man  owns,  the  poorer  he  is.  Geologists 
say,  and  there  is  every  reason  to  believe,  that  this  was  once 
part  of  the  sandy  bed  of  New  Haven  harbor,  and  can  trace 
the  former  shores  of  the  bay  in  the  rising  ground  bordering 
these  plains.  The  road  is  terribly  dusty  here,  and  every  body 
is  glad  to  reach  North  Haven  station,  where  we  strike  “solid 
ground”  again.  This  is  a great  town  for  brick-making,  and 
ships  several  millions  yearly.  Half  a dozen  miles  more  of 
travel  amidst  interesting  scenery  brings  us  to  New  Haven, 
whence  we  continue  our  journey  to  New  York  and  thence 
to  Saratoga. 


CHAPTER  III. 


Up  the  Hudson  Hiver  to  Albany  and  Saratoga. 


ARATOGA,  however,  being  our 
present  Mecca,  and  not  New  York, 
we  will  not  delay  in  the  metropolis, 
but  seek  the  first  conveyance  to  the 
Springs.  Pier  39,  foot  of  Vestry 
street,  is  but  a few  steps, — to  be 
exact  about  it,  half  a dozen 
blocks, — and  if  we  choose 
to  do  so,  we  can  proceed 
direct  thither  and  on  board 
one  of  the  splendid  day 
boats  Chauncey  Vibbard 
and  Daniel  Drew,  famed  as 
floating  palaces  par  excel- 
lence, for  Albany.  Or  if  we 
choose  we  may  take  a car- 
riage for  a short  drive  up  town,  or  if  desirable  may  snatch  an 
hour  or  two  for  the  transaction  of  business  (this  refers  to  the 
gnetlemen,  of  course)  as  the  boat  up  the  river  does  not  start  till 
8.30.  At  that  hour,  accordingly,  we  shall  be  promptly  on  hand 
,,or  if  more  convenient  we  may  connect  with  the  boat  at  the 
foot  of  23d  street,  fifteen  minutes  later.  We  are  soon  com- 
fortably ensconced  somewhere  on  deck,  so  that  our  eyes  can 

(42' 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


43 


range  the  scene  in  every  direction  and  get  the  full  effect  of 
the  varied  beauties  of  nature  and  art.  As  we  head  up  the 
river,  we  leave  behind  us  the  crowded  harbor  and  the  bustling 
piers  ; to  our  left  and  rear  is  Jersey  City,  with  its  various  depots 
for  transatlantic  steamships,  its  manufactures  and  its  busy 
streets;  directly  abreast  of  us  and  adjoining  Jersey  City  is 
Hoboken,  the  former  picnic  suburb  of  the  metropolis,  now  a 
steamship  and  railway  terminus,  and  a little  beyond  and  on  the 
same  side  is  Weehawken.  Straight  ahead  of  us  stretches  the 
noble  river,  bearing  on  its  bosom  so  great  a proportion  of 
the  city’s  wealth-producing  commerce  ; the  vast  fleets  of  canal 
boats,  laden  with  coal  from  the  Pennsylvania  mines,  or  grain 
from  the  western  fields ; the  steamers  from  Europe  and  the 
American  coast  ports ; clam  and  oyster  boats  from  the  south 
and  the  lower  bay;  rafts  of  lumber  from  the  north,  and  the 
pleasure  palaces  like  that  on  which  we  are  taking  our  passage. 
On  our  right  is  the  great  city,  with  its  square  miles  of  build- 
ings, its  labyrinths  of  streets  and  its  forests  of  masts.  As  we 
proceed  up  the  river  we  successively  pass  and  recognize,  if 
we  be  familiar  with  the  metropolis,  Manhattanville,  with 
its  Lunatic  Asylum,  Manhattan  College,  and  the  Sacred 
Heart  Convent;  Carmansville,  with  its  Deaf  and  Dumb  In- 
stitution, and  group  of  fine  villas ; the  Morris  House,  Wash- 
ington’s headquarters  in  1776,  Fort  Washington,  the  highest 
point  on  the  island,  crowned  with  villas  — all  formerly  sub- 
urban villages,  but  now  connected  portions  of  the  great  city. 
Between  us  and  Mount  Washington  projects  Jeffrey’s  Hook, 
the  site  of  a redoubt  in  1776,  and  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
river,  directly  to  our  left,  is  Fort  Lee,  with  its  Revolutionary 
memories  and  its  immense  Palisades  Hotel. 

The  Palisades. 

The  grand  and  wonderful  Palisades,  famous  the  world  over, 
have  begun  to  appear  on  our  left,  since  passing  Weehaw- 
ken, and  from  Fort  Lee  for  several  miles  north,  they  tower 
like  a great  wall  above  the  river.  These  palisades  are  of  the 


44 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


singular  rock  formation  known  as  a “trap  dyke,”  from  300  to 
500  feet  high,  forming  the  west  bank  of  the  river.  The  lofty 
wall  appears  like  a succession  of  vertical  pillars,  joined  to  each 
other,  or  the  palisades  of  a fortification,  whence  its  popular 
name  is  taken.  Nearly  opposite  Fort  Lee,  on  the  East  side, 
appears  the  mouth  of  Spuyten-Duyvil  Creek,  a tidal  inlet, 
which  with  Harlem  River  forms  a water  communication 
between  the  Hudson  and  East  Rivers,  and  isolates  the  island 
of  Manhattan.  The  creek  is  crossed  by  several  bridges. form- 
ing the  means  of  communication  with  the  towns  in  Westches- 
ter County  lately  annexed  to  the  metropolis.  The  legend 
goes  that  a Dutch  trumpeter,  Anthony  by  name,  while  on  a 
journey  in  the  old  days  of  New  Amsterdam,  was  impeded  in 
his  progress  by  this  creek,  then  nameless.  He  swore  that  he 
would  swim  it,  “en  spuyt  den  duyvil,”  (in  spite  of  the  devil) 
and  plunged  in.  But  when  half  across,  the  veracious  narra- 
tive goes,  the  devil  angered  at  the  free  use  of  his  name,  came 
up  in  the  form  of  a huge  moss-bunker,  or  menhaden,  seized 
Anthony  and  pulled  him  under,  to  rise  no  more.  Above  the 
creek  we  pass  Riverdale,  Mount  St.  Vincent,  with  its  con- 
vent, and  soon  reach  Yonkers,  17  miles  from  New  York,  a 
fiourishiffg  and  beautiful  village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Neperah 
river,  with  many  suburban  residences  of  New  York  merchants 
in  its  limits.  Here  was  the  ancient  Philipse  estate,  the  old 
Dutch  manor  house,  built  in  1682  and  enlarged  in  1745,  being 
still  in  existence.  Mary  Philipse,  the  lovely  heiress  of  this 
estate  was  sought  in  marriage  by  Washington  long  before  he 
wooed  the  widow  of  Custis,  and  he  never  forgot  her  refusal. 
Hastings  comes  next,  a busy  town,  and  the  port  of  shipment 
for  the  Westchester  marble  quarries.  A little  above  is  Dobbs’s 
Ferry,  an  old  village  at  the  mouth  of  Wisquaqua  Creek,  and 
opposite  is  Piermont,  on  the  line  between  New  York  and  New 
Jersey.  Hitherto,  we  have  had  the  foreign  country  last  named, 
on  our  left  all  the  way,  but  now  for  the  rest  of  our  journey, 
we  shall  be  in  the  United  States  and  in  New  York,  all  the 
way.  Inland  from  Piermont  is  the  old  Dutch  hamlet  of  Tap- 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK* 


45 


pan,  noted  chiefly  as  the  place  of  Major  Andre’s  trial  and  exe- 
cution in  17S0,  after  Benedict  Arnold’s  unsuccessful  attempt 
to  deliver  up  West  Point  to  the  British. 

A Region  of  Romance. 

Here  begins  the  Tappan  Zee,  a lake  formed  by  the  widening 
of  the  river,  which  is  from  two  to  five  miles  wide  for  a dis- 
tance of  ten  miles.  Near  Irvington  stands  “ Sunnyside,”  the 
old  home  of  Washington  Irving,  to  whose  genius  this  whole 
region  owes  much  of  its  charm,  for  he  gathered  up  the  quaint 
Dutch  traditions  that  lingered  about  the  scenes  and  localities, 
and  interweaving  them  with  the  bright  romances  of  his  own 
brain,  formed  a chaplet  which  crowns  the  Hudson  with  im- 
mortal fame.  The  Tappan  Zee  and  its  neighborhood  is  the 
very  center  of  this  mythical  and  romantic  region.  In  the 
legends  of  the  early  settlers  the  lovely  lake  is  haunted  by  spec- 
tral ships  of  ancient  Dutch  mould,  which  came  flying  up  in  the 
teeth  of  the  wind  and  tide,  and  never  returned ; by  phantom 
whale-boats  of  the  old  water-guard,  sunk  by  the  British ; and 
by  the  spectral  skiff*  of  Rambout  Van  Dam,  destined  to  row 
between  Kakiat  and  Spuyten  Duyvil  till  the  day  of  judgment. 
Even  Sunnyside  has  its  legendary  interest.  It  was  built  over 
200  years  ago  by  Wolfert  Acker,  a Dutch  councillor,  who  in- 
scribed over  the  door,  “Lust  in  Rust,”  (pleasure  in  quiet)  and 
the  English  settlers  with  a droll  humor  nicknamed  it  “ Wol- 
fert’s  Roost.”  All  around  are  beautiful  villas,  of  New  York 
grandees  mostly,  and  the  spot  is  charming  to  the  highest 
degree.  A short  distance  above  is  Tarrytown,  the  Dutch 
Terwe  Dorp,  immortalized  in  Irving’s  work,  and  near  by  is 
Sleepy  Hollow,  a quiet  valley  originally  called  Slaeperigh 
Haven,  the  scene  of  Irving’s  world-famous  legend.  Carl’s 
Mill,  the  old  Dutch  church,  built  of  bricks  brought  from  Hol- 
land, the  bridge  over  the  Pocantico,  where  Ichabod  Crane  was 
overthrown  by  the  Headless  Horseman,  the  Philipse  Castle, 
an  old  loop-holed  mansion,  built  in  1683,  a point  of  defence 
for  the  tenantry  of  the  Philipse  manor,  all  are  extant.  Oppo- 


46  TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 

site  Tarrjtown  is  Njack,  and  a short  distance  above  is  Sing 
Sing,  a pleasant  village  on  a sunny  slope.  Near  the  river 
bank,  on  grounds  covering  130  acres,  stands  the  famous  State 
Prison,  whose  marble  buildings  were  erected  by  the  convicts 
who  swarm  like  bees  all  over  the  enclosure.  On  the  west 
bank  is  Verdritege  Hook  on  Point-no-Point,  a bold  promon- 
tory on  the  top  of  which  lies  Rockland  Lake,  the  ice-fleld 
whence  the  metropolis  is  chiefly  supplied.  Teller’s  or  Croton 
Point  projects  from  the  right  bank  nearly  two  miles,  as  if  to 
contest  the  passage  of  the  river,  and  as  we  approach  it  we  see 
the  mouth  of  the  Croton  river,  whence  the  water  supply  of 
New  York  City  is  conveyed  40  miles  in  a covered  aqueduct. 
The  dam  is  six  miles  up  the  river,  and  is  250  feet  long,  40  feet 
high  and  70  feet  thick  at  the  base,  forming  a lake  five  miles 
long,  covering  four  hundred  acres  and  holding  500,000,000 
gallons  of  water.  The  aqueduct,  of  stone  and  brick,  follows  the 
course  of  the  Hudson  river  to  the  great  reservoirs  in  Central 
Park,  and  has  a daily  capacity  of  60,000,000  gallons.  The 
works  cost  $14,000,000,  and  include  sixteen  tunnels  and 
twenty-five  bridges,  by  which  the  conduit  overcomes  natural 
obstacles  in  its  course. 

The  Highlands  of  the  Hudson. 

We  round  Croton  Point,  steering  nearly  towards  the  west 
bank,  where  the  Highlands  loom  up  grandly  before  us,  and 
enter  the  beautiful  Haverstraw  Bay,  a placid  expanse  of  the 
river,  named  from  the  village  of  Haverstraw  on  the  left.  On 
Treason  Hill,  appropriately  so  called,  stands  the  old  stone 
mansion  where  Arnold  and  Andre  met  and  arranged  for  the 
surrender  of  West  Point.  A short  distance  above,  on  the 
same  side,  is  Stony  Point,  the  scene  of ‘‘Mad  Anthony” 
Wayne’s  reckless,  but  successful  assault  in  the  Revolution, 
and  opposite  is  Verplanck’s  Point,  which  he  rendered  unten- 
able by  the  cannonade  from  Stony  Point,  after  its  capture.  A 
few  miles  above,  on  the  right  bank,  is  Peekskill,  at  the  mouth 
of  a creek  or  “kill”  from  which  the  village  takes  its  name. 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK. 


47 


Jan  Peek,  an  early  Dutch  mariner  having  ascended  hither  and 
named  the  kill  after  himself.  Here  the  river  turns  sharply 
to  the  left,  and  passes  through  “The  Race  ” so  called,  formed 
by  the  blulf  promontory  of  Anthony’s  Nose  on  the  North  and 
the  Dunderburg  on  the  South.  Between  these  the  narrow 
channel  is  cut,  the  course  of  the  river  being  very  nearly  from 
West  to  East  for  a mile  or  two.  The  scenery  here  is  grand 
and  majestic.  Our  steamer  plows  its  way  between  the  im- 
posing mountains  of  the  Highlands.  The  lofty  Dunderberg 
(believed  by  the  ancient  Dutch  to  be  the  home  of  the  storm- 
goblins — hence  its  name  of  “Thunder  Mountain,”  as  amus- 
ingly described  by  Irving)  towers  on  our  left,  and  hardly  a 
stone’s-throw  on  our  right,  Anthony’s  Nose  (named,  accord- 
ing to  the  same  authority,  from  the  bulbous  and  rubicund 
protuberance  of  Anthony  Van  Corlear,  Governor  Peter 
Stuyvesant’s  trumpeter,)  rises  1128  feet  above  the  water.  Soon 
we  turn  to  the  right,  pass  Bracken  Kill,  Iowa  Island,  Poplopen 
Kill,  and  the  remains  of  Forts  Montgomery  and  Clinton, 
between  which  the  Yankees  in  1777  stretched  a heavy  chain 
and  boom  to  stop  the  passage  of  the  British  fleet,  but  from 
whence  they  were  driven  by  a flank  movement  of  Sir  Henry 
Clinton. 

West  Point  and  Above. 

Buttermilk  Falls  are  passed  on  the  left,  near  which  stands 
the  famous  Cozzens’s  Hotel,  and  soon  we  arrive  at  West 
Point,  the  nursery  of  Uncle  Sam’s  incipient  warriors,  and  the 
flirtation  field  of  hosts  of  metropolitan  damsels  during  the 
summer  encampment.  Here  are  the  barracks  for  2^0  cadets, 
the  chapel,  the  hospital,  the  main  academy  building,  the  tro- 
phies of  captured  artillery,  the  ruins  of  old  fort  Putnam,  and 
the  Siege  Battery  near  the  water’s  edge.  Across  the  river,  we 
see  Sugar  Loaf,  beneath  whose  shadow  still  stands  the  house 
in  which  Arnold  made  his  headquarters ; a little  further  along 
is  Cold  Spring,  overlooked  by  Mount  Taurus  and  Breakneck 
Hill.  On  the  left  side,  a little  beyond  West  Point,  loom 
Crownest  and  Boterberg  mountains,  separated  by  the  “Vale 


48 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


of  Tempe,”  the  scene  of  part  of  ‘‘The  Culprit  Faj.”  Near 
the  northern  foot  of  the  last  named  mountain,  lies  the  pretty 
village  of  Cornwall,  and  near  by  the  former  villa  (Idlewild) 
of  N.  P.  Willis. 

Newburgh,  Fishkill  and  Poughkeepsie. 

But  a short  distance  further,  we  see  the  busy  streets,  the 
white  dwellings  and  the  lofty  spires  of  Newburgh,  apparently 
climbing  the  steep  bluffs  on  the  west  bank,  while  at  the  water- 
side stand  blocks  of  huge  warehouses,  and  acres  of  wharves 
and  fleets  of  canal  boats  lie  at  the  coal  docks,  loading  with 
black  diamonds  brought  direct  from  the  mines  by  a branch  of 
the  Erie  Railway.  The  “switchback,”  by  which  the  loaded 
trains  run  by  gravity  down  to  the  dock,  and  discharge  directly 
into  the  canal  boats,  will  be  witnessed  with  interest  by  all  our 
fellow  passengers  of  a mechanical  or  material  turn  of  mind ; 
while  the  romantically  inclined  will  find  food  for  enthusiasm 
in  the  river  and  mountain  view,  and  the  lovers  of  history  in 
the  thought  that  here  in  Newburg,  Washington  had  one  of 
his  numerous  headquarters, — this  one  in  a stone  house  over 
the  heights,  where  he  wintered  in  1783 — and  perhaps  will 
land  and  pay  a pilgrimage  thither,  as  to  a second  Mecca.  New- 
burgh is  an  exceedingly  sightly  and  handsome  city,  has  15,000 
inhabitants,  an  immense  coal  and  lumber  trade,  and  is  con- 
nected by  ferry  with  Fishkill  Landing,  on  the  east  shore,  the 
western  terminus  of  the  New  York  and  New  England  rail- 
road, from  Boston,  via  Hartford  and  Waterbury,  if  it  shall 
ever  be  completed.  The  Duchess  and  Columbia  Division, 
now  runs  to  Millerton,  where  connection  is  made  via  Con- 
necticut Western,  with  Hartford,  but  the  link  between  Water- 
bury and  this  Western  Division  is  still  missing.  A few  miles 
north,  and  on  the  west  bank,  is  a level  rocky  plateau,  called 
by  Hendrick  Hudson,  who  witnessed  there  a midnight  orgie 
of  the  Indians,  “the  Devil’s  Dance  Chamber.”  Within  the 
next  few  miles  we  pass  Hampton,  Marlborough  and  Milton, 
small  and  uninspiring  villages  on  the  left,  and  New  Hamburg 


TO  UR  IS  7\T  HA  NDBOOK. 


49 


and  Barnegat  on  the  right,  and  next  arrive  at  Poughkeepsie, 
75  miles  from  New  York,  and  the  largest  city  between  the 
metropolis  and  Albany.  Poughkeepsie,  on  the  east  side,  is  a 
thriving  and  prosperous  city  of  20,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the 
western  terminus  of  another  proposed  line  of  railroad  from 
Boston,  to  connect  with  an  arm  put  forth  from  the  West  by 
the  great  Pennsylvania  railroad.  Vassar  College,  with  its 
400  young  lady  students,  its  splendid  buildings  and  its  un- 
rivalled educational  facilities,  is  about  two  miles  from  the 
city,  and  is  an  enduring  monument  to  the  benevolence  of  old 
Matthew  Vassar.  Besides  this  famous  institution,  there  are  the 
Poughkeepsie  Female  Academy,  the  Collegiate  Institute,  the 
Military  Institute,  ex-Mayor  Eastman’s  National  Business  Col- 
lege, St.  Peter’s  Academy,  Cottage  Hill  Seminary,  the  River- 
view  Military  School,  and  other  educational  establishments  of 
a high  grade,  from  which  learning  exudes,  as  it  were,  to  bene- 
fit the  whole  country.  There  is  also  the  State  Hospital  for 
the  Insane,  with  its  extensive  grounds.  The  Poughkeepsie 
and  Eastern  Railroad  runs  east  to  Millerton,  where  it  connects 
with  the  roads  above  named,  and  the  Harlem  from  New  York 
city,  while  the  Hudson  River  Railroad,  which  has  all  along 
followed  our  course,  on  the  right  bank,  passes  through  the 
city.  The  situation  of  Poughkeepsie  is  imposing  and  sightly. 
It  is  mainly  built  on  an  elevated  plateau,  far  above  the  river, 
and  its  many  fine  edifices  show  off  to  good  advantage  as  we 
approach  and  pass  by. 

The  River  Villages,  and  Hudson  City. 

Opposite  Poughkeepsie  is  New  Paltz,  a landing  connected 
with  the  city  by  a ferry;  six  miles  above  is  the  beautiful  vil- 
lage of  Hyde  Park,  near  which  point  the  river  curves  and 
narrows  between  high  cliffs.  This  curve  was  appropriately 
named  “ Crooked  Elbow”  (Krom  Elboge),  by  the  ancient 
Dutch,  and  bears  the  name  to  this  day.  From  this  point,  for 
a few  miles,  the  scene  is  one  of  quiet  beauty.  Fertile  mead- 
ows stretch  on  either  hand,  the  river  placidly  expands,  while 
3 


so 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


the  blue  peaks  of  the  distant  Katskills  form  a pleasing  back- 
ground. Staatsburg,  Rondout  and  Port  Ewen,  staid  old  vil- 
lages, rich  in  history  and  tradition,  are  next  passed  Rondout 
is  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek  of  the  same  name,  by  which  the 
Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  makes  its  way  to  the  Hudson. 
Kingston,  two  miles  from  the  river,  on  the  beautiful  Esopus 
Creek,  which  has  furnished  the  subject  for  many  fine  pictures, 
is  a verj'-  old  village,  in  which  the  first  constitution  of  New 
York  was  framed,  at  a legislative  session  in  1777.  It  is  now 
a place  of  some  7,000  inhabitants,  and  is  reached  by  horse- 
cars  from  Rondout.  Across  the  Hudson  lies  Rhinebeck, 
with  a ferry  connection,  the  main  village  being  two  miles 
inland.  On  a high  bluff  near  by  is  an  old  fortress  mansion, 
as  manor  houses  were  built  in  those  days ; the  house  of  the 
Beekman  family  in  the  17th  century.  Tarrytown,  Tivoli, 
Saugerties,  Clermont  and  Malden,  river  landings,  are  suc- 
cessively passed,  each  having  something  of  interest  in  its 
history.  Above  Tarrytown  is  Annandale,  the  estate  of  John 
Bard,  who  has  ereeted  thereon  St.  Stephen’s  College,  a fine 
stone  Gothic  building,  for  the  education  of  young  men  for 
the  Episcopal  ministry;  also  the  fine  church  of  the  Holy 
Innocents.  Saugerties  is  at  the  mouth  of  Esopus  Creek, 
marking  the  one  hundredth  mile  from  New  York;  Clermont 
is  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Livingston  family,  founded  by  the 
chancellor  of  that  name,  and  Malden  is  the  great  shipping 
point  of  the  North  River  flagging-stone.  Passing  Katskill 
Landing,  the  mountains  of  that  name  tower  above  it  on  the 
left  bank,  with  the  Mountain  House  plainly  visible  near  one 
of  the  summits.  From  the  landing  stages  convey  tourists  to 
the  celebrated  resort.  On  the  way,  the  road  leads  through 
Sleepy  Hollow,  the  scene  of  Rip  Van  Winkle’s  fabled  20 
years’  nap.  On  the  east  bank  of  the  river,  four  miles  above 
Katskill,  is  Hudson,  the  capital  of  Columbia  county,  a city 
of  about  10,000  inhabitants.  Here  is  the  head  of  ship  navi- 
gation on  the  Hudson,  and  hence  the  Hudson  and  Boston 
Railroad  runs  to  Chatham,  connecting  there  with  the  Bos- 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK, 


51 


ton  and  Albanv.  A few  miles  northeast  are  the  Columbia 
Springs,  often  visited,  and  the  views  of  the  river,  the  Kats- 
kills,  llelderbergs,  Shawangunks,  Highlands,  and  other 
mountains  from  Prospect  Hill  are  very  fine.  Opposite  Hud- 
son is  Athens,  the  shipping  point  of  immense  quantities 
of  hay,  ice,  brick,  etc.  Here  the  New  York  Central  Rail- 
road has  a great  freight  terminus.  A short  distance  above  is 
Coxsackie  and  then  Stuyvesant  Landing,  New  Baltimore, 
Schodack  and  Beeren  Islands,  Coeymans,  Schodack,  Castle- 
ton,  Staats  Island  and  Overslaugh  are  passed,  and  the 
steamer  rounds  to  at  the  dock  at  Albany. 

Albany,  Its  History  and  Its  Attractions. 

In  1614  the  adventurous  Dutch,  who  had  even  then  sailed 
far  up  the  Hudson  and  explored  the  magnificent  country  on 
its  banks,  deemed  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Albany  emin- 
ently fit  for  a settlement,  and  accordingly  they  settled.  Nine 
years  later  they  built  Fort  Orange,  and  called  the  little  town 
Beaverwyck,  owing  to  the  numbers  of  beaver  found  here.  In 
1664  the  British  took  the  place  and  named  it  Albany  in  honor 
of  James  II,  then  crown  prince,  Duke  of  York  and  Albany. 
In  1686  a city  charter  was  granted,  and  in  1798  it  became  the 
capital  of  the  State.  Albany,  and  indeed  nearly  all  the  county, 
and  those  of  Rensselaer  and  Columbia,  were  embraced  in  the 
patent  of  1150  square  miles  granted  to  Killian  Van  Rensselaer, 
by  the  Dutch  East  India  Company  in  1637  as  Patroon  of  Rens- 
selaerwyck,  and  here  he  and  his  descendants  ruled  in  feudal 
state  until  the  anti-rent  troubles  in  1846,  when  the  state  troops 
were  obliged  to  interfere  to  put  down  the  insurrectionary 
tenants,  and  since  that  time,  the  vestiges  of  the  old  system 
have  disappeared,  though  the  family  still  remains  wealthy 
and  famous.  So  much  for  history.  The  Albany  of  the 
present  day  is  a thriving  manufacturing  and  commercial  city, 
doing  an  immense  business  by  means  of  the  Erie  Canal,  which 
here  has  its  vast  eastern  terminal  basin,  with  its  breakwater  80 
feet  wide  and  4,300  feet  long,  and  by  its  railroad  connections. 


52 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


It  is  also  the  center  of  a great  brewing  interest,  and  Albany 
XXX  ale  is  known  the  country  over.  The  river  is  bridged 
for  the  passage  of  the  Boston  and  Albany  railroad,  by  a struc- 
ture of  stone  and  iron  costing  $1,150,000.  Besides  this  rail- 
road, which  runs  201  miles  east  to  Boston,  the  Hudson  River 
142  miles  south  to  New  York,  the  New  York  Central  298  miles 
west  to  Buffalo,  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  94  miles  north- 
east to  Rutland,  Vt.,  and  the  Albany  and  Susquehanna,  142 
miles  south-west,  to  Binghamton,  where  it  connects  with  the 
Erie  Railway,  center  here.  The  city  has  some  80,000  inhab- 
itants and  many  fine  public  buildings.  The  most  magnificent 
among  these  will  be  the  new  capitol,  second  only  to  its  Federal 
namesake  at  Washington,  if  it  is  ever  finished.  It  has  been 
in  progress  many  years,  and  has  cost  some  $10,000,000.  It 
is  of  light  colored  stone,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  of  which  it 
is  considered  the  finest  example  in  the  country.  The  water 
supply  is  drawn  from  Rensselaer  Lake,  five  miles  west, 
through  a system  of  works  costing  $1,000,000.  The  marble 
State  Hall,  the  City  Hall,  the  Catholic  Cathedral  of  the  Im- 
maculate Conception,  St.  Joseph’s  church,  and  St.  Peter’s 
(Episcopal),  with  its  silver  service  given  by  Queen  Anne, to 
the  Onondaga  Indians,  are  all  worthy  of  attention,  as  are  the 
several  educational  institutions.  But  perhaps  the  most  inter- 
esting building  in  the  city  is  the  old  Van  Rensselaer  manor 
house,  surrounded  by  its  park,  near  Broadway,  on  the  site  of 
the  original  dwelling  of  the  first  Patroon  of  the  name.  This 
manor  house  is  very  ancient,  and  an  interesting  relic  of  the 
architecture  of  the  feudal  days  of  Albany.  Here  too  is  the 
old  Schuyler  mansion,  built  some  two  centuries  ago,  by  the 
head  of  that  distinguished  and  wealthy  family. 

A pleasant  stopping-place  in  Albany,  and  one  much  frequen- 
ted and  enjoyed  by  tourists,  is  the  famous  hotel.  Congress  Hall, 
of  which  Mr.  Adam  Blake  is  the  justly  popular  proprietor. 
Its  location  on  the  high  land  opposite  the  State  House  and  the 
new  Capitol ; away  from  smoke  and  dust  and  noise  of  rail- 
road trains^  and  the  business  streets,  makes  it  especially  de- 


TOURISTS^  iTANDBOOKt 


sirable  to  those  fond  of  quiet,  while  comfortable,  well 
furnished  rooms,  a sumptuous  table  and  all  the  conveniences- 
of  a hotel  leave  little  to  be  desired. 

From  Albany  to  Saratoga. 

Continuing  on  our  pilgrimage  to  the  Springs  however,  we 
must  drop  the  beauties  and  the  traditions  of  Albany,  and  take 
the  cars  of  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad  northward. 
Passing  the  Rural  Cemetery,  a little  out  of  the  city,  we  soon 
reach  West  Troy,  the  site  of  the  Watervliet  National  Arsenal, 
with  its  hundred  acres  of  enclosure,  and  its  many  substantial 
buildings.  Across  the  river  to  our  right,  we  see  the  city  of 
Troy,  with  its  fine  buildings  and  its  hosts  of  foundries.  We 
soon  reach  Cohoes,  a busy  factory  city  of  16,000  inhabitants, 
at  the  great  falls  of  the  Mohawk  river.  Here  is  a costly  dam 
built  by  the  State,  and  by  means  of  great  hydraulic  canals, 
water-power  is  derived  equal  to  the  task  of  manufacturing 
$10,000,000  worth  of  goods  annually.  Three  miles  above 
Cohoes,  the  Erie  canal  crosses  the  Mohawk  in  an  aqueduct  of 
stone  with  27  arches,  the  whole  structure  being  over  1100  feet 
ong.  We  cross  the  Mohawk  river  at  Cohoes,  and  soon 
passing  through  Waterford,  a manufacturing  village,  fol- 
low the  left  bank  of  the  Hudson  — a small  stream  above  the 
confluence  of  the  Mohawk,  and  shorn  of  all  its  grandeur  — 
and  traverse  a long  and  fertile  meadow  between  the  river  and  the 
Champlain  canal.  Then  we  pass  Mechanicsville,  where  are 
numerous  thread  factories.  Round  Lake,  where  the  Metho- 
dists have  a famous  camp-meeting  in  “the  season,”  and  soon 
draw  up  at  the  station  at  Ballston  Spa.  This  resort,  though 
now  less  famous  than  its  more  northern  rival,  Saratoga,  was 
in  the  past  the  great  fashionable  watering  place  of  the  coun- 
try and  still  retains  traditions  of  .its  former  grandeur.  It  is 
now  visited  in  the  summer  by  many  people,  who  desire  a quiet 
and  select,  rather  than  a brilliant  and  showy  company,  and 
comfortable  accommodations.  There  are  several  fine  and 
famous  springs  here,  among  which  the  Sans  Souci,  in  the 


S4 


TOURISTS*  HA  NO  BOO  JR, 


grounds  of  the  famous  old  hotel  of  the  same  name,  is  the  most 
widely  known.  It  is  a spouting  spring,  and  very  rich  in  mine- 
ral virtues,  containing  986J  grains  of  mineral  matter  to  each 
gallon,  572  being  chloride  of  sodium  (called  salt  by  some  pro- 
saic and  vulgar  people,)  and  274  being  bi-carbonates  of  lime 
and  magnesia.  The  Artesian  Lithia  spring,  bored  in  1868,  is 
considered  a wonderful  specific  for  rheumatism,  gout,  gravel 
and  kindred  diseases.  It  fiows  from  a depth  of  650  feet,  and 
contains  nearly  8 grains  to  the  gallon  of  the  bi-carbonate  of 
lithia,  and  enough  other  mineral  ingredients  to  aggregate 
1,2345  grains  per  gallon,  making  it  probably  the  most  strongly 
mineral  water  in  the  valley.  The  Ballston  Springs  are  in  the 
southern  portion  of  the  same  valley  with  those  of  Saratoga, 
which  seems  to  justify,  in  the  wonderful  efficacy,  variety  and 
quantity  of  its  medicinal  waters,  the  Indian  superstition  that 
here  was  the  laboratory  of  the  Great  Spirit,  where  his  children 
should  come  to  be  cured  of  their  diseases.  Ballston  is  the 
capital  of  Saratoga  county,  has  several  factories  and  a popu- 
lation of  about  5000.  From  Ballston  to  Schenectady  a branch 
runs  southwest,  the  distance  being  17  miles.  Continuing  on 
our  northern  course  seven  miles,  we  sweep  by  several  grand 
hotels,  forming  the  centre  of  a handsome  and  populous  vil- 
lage, draw  alongside  an  immense  covered  platform,  and  alight 
at  Saratoga  Springs. 

Other  Koutes  to  Saratoga. 

As  already  intimated  there  are  several  other  routes  which 
may  be  traversed  on  our  way  to  Saratoga,  but  through  lack 
of  directness  or  the  long  time  consumed,  some  special  reason 
would  be  required  for  travelling  them.  One  may  go  by 
Providence  and  thence  by  Hartford,  Providence  and  Fishkill 
to  Hartford,  thence  by  steamer  to  New  York;  or  by  New 
York  and  Boston  Air  Line,  via  Putnam,  Willimantic,  Mid- 
dletown and  New  Haven ; or  by  steamer  from  Providence,  or 
Saybrook,  or  New  Haven,  or  even  Bridgeport  to  New  York; 
or  by  a dozen  other  routes  or  parts  of  routes ; but,  as  already 


TO  UR  IS HANDBOOK. 


55 


said,  special  reasons  would  be  required  to  justify  such  a 
departure  from  the  ordinary  course  of  travellers.  Some  peo- 
ple, also,  take  the  Hudson  River  Railroad  from  New  York  to 
Albany,  but  such  people  lose  in  great  measure  the  enjoyment 
of  the  splendid  scenery  of  the  Hudson.  But  by  whichever 
route  we  come,  we  will  suppose  ourselves  to  have  landed 
safely  under  the  long  roof  which  covers  the  platforms  and 
tracks  at  “ the  Springs,”  and  to  be  receiving  the  congratula- 
tions and  pressing  invitations  of  the  legion  of  delighted  port- 
ers and  drivers,  who  are  unfeigned ly  glad  to  see  us  and 
anxious  to  take  us  to  their  respective  hotels. 

The  Fitchburg,  Rutland  and  Saratoga  Line. 

We  will,  however,  describe  one  or  two  of  the  prominent 
all-rail  routes  thither.  And  first,  we  will  premise  that  the 
tourist  has  purchased  his  tickets  and  obtained  the  necessary 
information  as  to  routes,  stopping-places,  connections  and 
time  tables,  both  which  desirable  consummations  can  be 
reached  by  a call  upon,  or  a letter  to  the  office  of  the  Fitch- 
burg, Rutland  and  Saratoga  Line,  at  No.  228  Washington 
street.  The  railway  station  on  Causeway  street,  is  the  start- 
ing point  for  two  routes,  that  via  Fitchburg  and  Rutland 
coming  first  under  our  notice.  Elegant  and  comfortable  or- 
dinary cars  are  furnished  by  this  line,  in  which  any  one  can 
ride  as  easily  and  with  as  little  discomfort  as  on  any  road  in 
the  country.  In  addition,  the  famous  Pullman  cars  are  run 
on  the  through  trains,  in  which  those  who  are  willing  to  pay 
for  a little  extra  luxury  and  the  attention  of  a special  con- 
ductor can  enjoy  the  acme  of  comfort  in  railway  travel.  As 
we  leave  the  city  and  cross  Charles  River  to  Charlestown,  the 
tall  form  of  Bunker  Hill  monument  towers  above  us  on  the 
right,  and  nearer  by  we  see  the  grim  walls  of  the  State  Prison. 
We  barely  skirt  the  edge  of  Charlestown,  and  then  cross 
the  Miller’s  river,  pass  through  Somerville,  Cambridge,  Bel- 
mont and  Waltham,  at  which  latter  place  we  see  the  immense 
works  of  the  American  Watch  Company;  Lincoln,  in  which 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


56 

town  are  the  famous  Walden  woods  and  ponds,  made  famous 
by  Thoreau’s  hermit  life,  and  now  the  favorite  scene  of  picnics; 
and  soon  we  enter  Concord,  which  was  the  scene  of  anything 
but  concord  one  hundred  years  ago.  On  the  19th  of  April, 
1775,  history  tells  us,  800  British  troops  under  Major  Pitcairn, 
who  had  dispersed  the  patriots  at  Lexington  the  nigh  before, 
were  met  at  the  North  bridge  across  the  Concord  river  by  a 
little  band  of  “ embattled  farmers,”  who  “ fired  the  shot  heard 
round  the  world,”  and  in  so  doing  routed  the  proud  hosts  of 
the  invader  and  sent  them  in  disorder  out  of  town.  Here, 
upon  the  19th  of  April,  1875,  the  centennial  was  celebrated 
with  great  pomp,  a crowd  of  20,000  people  attending,  the 
President  and  his  Cabinet  being  present,  an  oration  by  George 
William  Curtis,  an  address  by  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  and 
several  other  speeches  being  delivered,  and  the  fine  bronze 
monument  of  the  Minute  Man  being  dedicated  on  the  old 
battle  ground.  But  this  is  not  a historical  work  of  fiction ; 
anyone  who  craves  more  history  can  consult  the  text  books 
in  the  public  schools.  South  Acton  is  the  next  station.  It  is 
chiefly  noted  as  the  point  of  departure  of  the  Marlboro’ 
Branch,  13  miles  long.  At  Ayer  (formerly  Groton  Junction) 
railroads  from  Worcester,  Nashua,  Lowell,  Clinton  and  Peter- 
boro’,  N.  H.,  intersect,  and  here  we  are  quite  sure  to  receive 
accessions  to  our  numbers  from  some  or  all  of  these  places. 

Fitchburg  and  its  Environs. 

Soon  we  reach  Fitchburg,  distant  50  miles  (an  hour  and  a 
half’s  ride)  from  Boston,  and  here  we  find  another  prosper- 
ous manufacturing  town,  an  important  railroad  centre,  and  a 
delightful  spot  in  summer  to  spend  a few  days  or  weeks.  A 
good  sized  hill  near  the  town  bears  the  resounding  title  of 
Rollstone  Mountain,  and  the  brawling  brook  which  courses 
through  the  village,  supplying  25  water  privileges  and  creat- 
ing a necessity  for  several  railroad  bridges,  is  known  as  the 
Nashua  river.  From  Fitchburg  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  Line 
branches  off  to  the  west,  the  Fitchburg  and  Worcester  road 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


57 


nms  nearly  south  to  Worcester,  and  the  Cheshire  railroad 
proceeds  (and  we  with  and  upon  it)  northwesterly  to  Keene, 
N.  II.  We  pass  through  the  towns  of  Westminster  and 
Ashburnham,  for  the  first  few  miles  having  fine  views  from 
the  windows  on  the  left  of  Wachusett  Mountain,  2,018  feet 
high,  in  the  northern  part  of  Princeton,  and  passing  in  Ash- 
burnham a number  of  clear,  wooded  ponds,  which  at  this 
season  are  carpeted  over  with  water-lily  pads,  and  starred 
with  their  fragrant  and  snowy  blossoms.  Next  we  come  to 
Wincliendon,  68  miles  from  Boston,  a large  manufacturing 
town  on  Miller’s  river.  This  is  the  great  hive  of  industry 
from  which  are  produced  myriads  of  Avooden  vessels,  utensils 
and  conveniences.  It  is  no  sign  of  illness  in  this  town  to 
turn  a little  pail,  or  a large  one  either,  for  hundreds  of  work- 
men are  daily  turning  them,  and  “kicking  the  bucket”  does 
not  necessarily  imply  death.  One  of  the  largest  of  these  fac- 
tories, where  everything  wooden  from  a clothes-pin  to  a rock- 
ing-horse is  turned  out,  is  that  of  Captain  E.  Murdock,  Jr., 
and  it  will  be  worth  anyone’s  while  to  stop  here  and  visit  if. 
And  they  need  not  stop  for  that  alone,  for  hence  the  Monad- 
nock  Branch  makes  ofif  to  Rindge,  JafFrey  and  Peterborough, 
N.  H.,  and  many  people  transfer  themselves  to  this  road  for 
a trip  to  Mount  Monadnock,  of  which  more  will  be  said  here- 
after. Others  go  by  carriage  from  Winchendon,  and,  indeed, 
in  all  the  neighboring  country  it  is  the  custom  to  get  up  pic- 
nic parties  to  the  top  of  Monadnock,  for  the  benefit  of 
sojourners  from  the  cities. 

Mount  Monadnock. 

This  most  celebrated  peak  of  the  vicinity  is  located  in  the 
town  of  Jaftrey,  N.  H.,  and  is  full  in  view  from  the  car  win- 
dows for  several  miles  as  we  pass  into  the  Granite  State, 
either  on  the  main  line  or  the  Monadnock  Branch.  It  is  a 
bold,  rugged  peak,  3450  feet  high,  nearly  conical,  and  of  great 
beauty  when  its  harsh  lines  are  softened  by  the  distance. 
Near  to,  it  shows  wooded  sides  reaching  nearly  to  the  sum- 
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TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


S8 

mit,  though  broken  by  perpendicular  ledges  of  rock,  and  a 
crest  of  solid  jagged  rock,  bare  and  bleak  as  that  of  Mount 
Washington  itself.  It  is  comparatively  easy  of  ascent,  and 
one  can  leave  Boston  at  7.30  A.  m.,  visit  Jaffrey,  ascend  the 
mountain,  and  reach  home  at  7 p.  m.,  after  a most  delightful 
and  invigorating  trip.  From  the  summit  of  Monadnock,  a 
view,  grand,  beautiful  and  varied  is  spread  out  before  the  visi- 
tor. Southern  New  Hampshire  and  Northern  Massachusetts 
are  at  his  foot,  and  though  he  does  not  see  all  the  kingdoms 
of  the  world  and  the  glory  of  them,  yet  he  gets  a larger  idea 
of  the  greatness  of  this  portion  of  New  England  than  he  can 
from  level  ground.  There  are  said  to  be  30  lakes  embraced 
within  the  range  of  vision,  on  one  of  the  prettiest  of  which, 
Contoocook,  a small  excursion  steamer  has  been  placed.  The 
Monadnock  Mountain  House,  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain,  is 
much  frequented  by  visitors.  Returning  to  the  main  line,  we 
pass  through  State  Line,  71  miles  from  Boston,  Fitzwilliam, 
77  miles,  Troy,  82  miles,  and  Marlboro,  86  miles,  little  towns 
nestled  among  the  hills,  and  favorite  resorts  for  those  who 
were  born  under  the  last  sign  of  the  Zodiac.  Then  through 
South  Keene,  80  miles  from  Boston,  a small  station  in  the 
southern  part  of  Keene,  and  in  a few  minutes  we  roll  into  the 
fine  depot  of  Keene  proper,  82  miles  from  our  starting  point. 
Keene  is  one  of  the  most  charming  towns  in  New  Hampshire, 
noted  for  manufactures,  the  power  for  which  it  derives  from 
the  Ashuelot  river  and  from  Beaver  Brook,  the  falls  of  which, 
two  miles  north  of  the  village,  are  an  object  of  great  interest 
to  the  tourist.  The  location  of  Keene  is  beautiful,  on  a fine 
meadow  surrounded  by  hills,  and  traversed  by  the  clear  and 
sparkling  river.  It  is  a town  of  6000  inhabitants,  has  seven 
churches  and  the  county  buildings  of  Cheshire  county.  The 
Ashuelot  Railroad  runs  hence  southwest  to  South  Vernon, 
Vermont.  The  streets  of  Keene  are  broad,  well  shaded,  and 
the  business  centre.  Central  Square,  has  fine  stores,  in  which 
a large  trade  with  the  surrounding  country  is  carried  on. 

From  Keene  we  continue  through  the  Westmorelands,  the 


TO  UR  IS  rs'  HA  ND  BOOH. 


59 


first  ICXD  miles  from  Boston,  being  oddly  enough  named  East 
Westmoreland  and  suggesting  the  inquiry  as  to  whether  there 
may  not  be  a North-East-hy-South  Westmoreland,  then  West- 
moreland proper,  104  miles,  Walpole  no  miles.  Cold  River 
1 13  miles,  the  track  following  all  the  way  the  course  of  the 
Connecticut  River,  and  at  the  feet  of  a chain  of  magnificent 
hills,  the  highest  of  which.  Fall  Mountain  — a spur  of  Mount 
Toby  — towers  750  feet  above  our  heads.  Just  beyond  the 
last  named  station  we  roll  through  a bridge  which  crosses  the 
Connecticut  into  Vermont,  giving  us  fleeting  glimpses  of  the 
celebrated  Bellows  Falls,  and  in  a few  moments  we  are  at 
the  Station  of  that  name,  an  important  railroad  junction,  and 
one  of  the  most  flourishing  manufacturing  towns  of  the  Green 
Mountain  State. 


Bellows  Palls,  and  Beyond. 

The  situation  of  this  village  is  romantic  in  the  extreme. 
Looking  to  the  eastward  from  the  platform  of  the  railway 
station.  Mount  Kilburn,  wooded  with  evergreen  to  its  very 
summit,  towers  like  an  emerald  wall  to  the  hight  of  900  feet. 
At  its  foot,  and  almost  at  ours,  the  river  roars  and  foams.  The 
Connecticut  is  here  compressed  into  a channel  less  than  50 
feet  wide,  and  the  rush  of  waters  through  this  narrow  gorge 
and  over  the  huge  rocks,  which  obstructs  it,  is  magnificent, 
especially  during  the  Spring  floods.  Bellows  Falls  is  a most 
enjoyable  place  at  which  to  spend  a week,  so  numerous  and 
so  varied  are  its  objects  of  interest.  To  geologists,  the 
strange  natural  carvings  of  human  faces  in  the  rocks  of  the 
vicinity  will  be  well  worth  seeing;  to  the  lover  of  fishing, 
Warren’s  and  Minard’s  ponds,  Saxton’s  river  and  other  places 
afford  fine  sport,  and  if  one  enjoy  witnessing  the  development 
of  the  finny  tribes,  he  may,  at  J.  D.  Bridgman’s  trout-breeding 
establishment,  | of  a mile  north,  gain  all  needed  information ; 
to  the  invalid  the  Abenaquis  Iron  Springs  offer  their  healing 
waters,  and  to  the  lover  of  fine  natural  scenery  there  are 
numerous  pleasant  drives,  walks  and  climbs  in  the  neighbor- 


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TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


hood.  Bellows  Falls  has  been  mentioned  as  a great  railroad 
centre.  Here,  besides  the  Cheshire  road,  which  forms  a part 
of  the  great  thoroughfare  to  Boston,  the  southern  division  of 
the  Central  Vermont  Railroad  comes  in  from  South  Vernon, 
where  it  connects  with  the  Connecticut  River  Railroad,  for 
Springfield,  Mass.  Here  also,  the  Central  Division  of  the 
same  great  corporation  branches  off  to  White  River  Junction, 
while  we  ourselves  continue  on  northwest,  over  the  Rutland 
Division  of  the  same  railroad.  A ride  of  ten  miles  brings  us 
to  Bartonsville,  123  miles  from  Boston,  where  we  begin  the 
ascent  of  the  Green  Mountains,  though  we  do  not  perceive 
anj  strong  indications  of  our  approach  thereto  before  reach- 
ing Chester,  127  miles  from  Boston,  whence  we  see  from  our 
post  on  the  summit  of  a long  green  slope  to  the  Williams 
river,  a noble  hill  towering  on  our  right.  At  Gassett’s,  133 
miles  from  Boston,  we  can  take  a stage,  if  we  are  so  disposed, 
for  Springfield,  seven  miles  distant,  and  inspect  the  Black 
River  Falls,  which  afford  some  wonderful  illustrations  of  the 
action  of  water  in  wearing  away  rock. 

Ludlow  and  the  “Hog’s  Back.” 

Passing  Cavendish  and  Proctorsville,  which  last  place  is 
noted  for  a quarry  of  splendid  serpentine  marble,  much  used 
for  decorative  purposes,  we  come  to  Ludlow,  141  miles  from 
Boston,  where  we  see  the  wonderful  “Hog’s  Back”  This 
euphonious  designation  is  applied  to  a lofty  ridge,  whose 
formation  has  greatly  puzzled  geologists,  rising  abruptly 
from  the  green  and  fertile  meadows.  It  is  generally  believed 
to  have  been  an  island  in  some  primeval  lake,  before  the 
breaking  down  of  the  eastern  serpentine  ridge  drained  off  its 
waters  and  changed  its  bottom  into  a rich  meadow.  Over 
the  crest  of  this  ridge  runs  the  railroad,  ascending  from  Lud- 
low seven  miles  to  Summit  the  highest  station  on  the  road. 
At  Ludlow  we  wait  for  the  passage  of  the  down  train,  and 
looking  from  our  windows,  up  the  grand  sweep  of  the 
“ Hog’s  Back,”  we  see  the  train  gliding  like  a serpent  along 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


6i 

its  edge,  and  presently,  with  a roar  like  that  of  many  waters, 
it  emerges  from  a shallow  cut  and  dashes  up  to  the  station 
at  a speed  which  requires  all  the  power  of  the  brakes  to 
check.  From  Summit  to  Ludlow  no  steam  is  used;  the  train 
is  run  by  gravity  alone ; the  speed  is  tremendous,  and  the 
sensation  of  riding  over  this  portion  of  the  road  is  exhila- 
rating in  the  extreme.  Ludlow  is  also  famous  for  its  mag- 
netic iron  ore  and  its  fine  beds  of  antique  marble.  Toiling 
up  the  “ Hog’s  Back”  we  next  reach  Healdsville,  147  miles 
from  Boston,  a little  station  surmounting  an  ugly  chasm,  out 
of  whose  rocky  sides  several  charming  little  cascades  trickle 
Summit  comes  next,  one  mile  further,  and  here  the  dividing 
line  between  the  eastern  and  western  slopes  is  reached.  Here 
steam  is  shut  off,  and  we  begin  the  descent  to  Rutland,  18 
miles  distant  and  1,000  feet  below  us,  our  average  descent 
being  55  feet  to  the  mile.  Mount  Holly,  East  Wallingford 
and  Cuttingsville  are  passed  without  comment,  unless  one 
should  chance  to  notice  from  the  windows  Shrewsbury  Peak, 
near  the  latter  station,  a commanding  mountain  4,086  feet 
high. 

Rutland  and  its  Attractions. 

Clarendon,  160  miles  from  Boston  is  the  last  stopping  place 
before  reaching  Rutland,  six  miles  further  on,  where  we  enter 
a large  and  handsome  depot,  and  can,  if  we  desire,  get  an  ex- 
cellent dinner  at  the  restaurant  in  the  station,  or  can  patronize 
one  of  the  hotels  near-by,  whose  merits  are  loudly  eulogized 
by  a host  of  porters,  whose  friendliness  and  desire  for  the 
travelers’  comfort  are  touching  in  the  extreame.  Many  per- 
sons will  desire  to  stop  at  Rutland  for  a time  to  rest  from  the 
fatigues  of  the  journey,  or  to  enjoy  the  fine  scenery  and  the 
many  attractions  in  the  vicinity.  For  those  fond  of  mountain 
climbing,  Shrewsbury  and  Killington  Peaks,  lofty  protuber- 
ances of  the  Green  Mountain  system,  easily  visited,  will  prove 
great  attractions ; Capitol  Rock,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
latter,  being  a noted  curiosity.  For  those  whose  blood  is  out 


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TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK. 


of  order,  and  who  consequently  “enjoy  poor  health,”  there  are 
the  Clarendon  Springs  near-by,  whose  waters,  abounding  in 
nitrogen  gas  in  solution,  sulphate  and  muriate  of  lime,  sul- 
phate of  soda,  sulphate  of  magnesia,  a large  amount  of  car- 
bonic acids  and  perhaps  other  essentials  to  the  prosperity  of 
a well  regulated  drug-store, — are  said  to  be  equal  as  an  alter- 
ative to  those  of  the  German  Spa,  which  they  much  resemble. 
There  are  many  fine  drives  about  Rutland,  to  Sutherland 
Falls,  to  Killington,  Shrewsbury  and  Pico  Peaks,  and  to  West 
Rutland  where  are  some  of  the  largest  marble  quarries  in  the 
world.  Whole  hills  seem  to  be  composed  of  solid  marble, 
of  snowy  whiteness  and  fine  texture,  so  fine,  indeed  that  its 
value  at  the  quarry  is  greater  than  that  of  Italian  marble  deli- 
vered at  New  York.  A visit  to  these  quarries  is  full  of 
interest.  Approaching,  one  sees  first  the  great  mill  where 
gangs  of  saws  are  endlessly  cutting  the  glittering  stone  into 
slabs  of  various  thickenesses ; the  huge  derricks,  used  for 
lifting  the  great  masses  of  stone ; then  the  piles  of  broken 
stone  sloping  away  from  the  mouth  of  the  quarry,  like  the 
piles  of  coal  dust  in  front  of  a Pennsylvania  coal  shaft ; then 
the  gloomy  opening  to  the  mine  itself.  Some  of  these  quar- 
ries have  been  worked  for  many  years,  and  have  completely 
hollowed  out  the  interior  of  considerable  hills,  leaving  only  a 
shell  of  marble  to  support  the  soil  and  preserve  the  form  of 
the  outside.  At  first  the  work  of  quarrying  was  done  by 
hand,  but  now  steam  is  almost  universally  applied.  Diamond 
drills,  channelling  machines  and  other  like  appliances  are  at 
work  down  deep  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  the  deafening 
noise  of  their  action  reverberating  through  the  vaulted  cavern  ; 
the  gleam  of  light  from  the  engine  and  the  sooty  smoke  which 
constantly  arises,  and  has  in  the  lapse  of  years  changed  the 
snowy  purity  of  the  marble  canopy  overhead  to  inky  black- 
ness, make  the  whole  scene  to  the  unaccustomed  visitor  like 
a glimpse  of  Dante’s  Inferno.  Rutland  has  several  fine 
streets,  handsome  stores,  hotels  and  churches,  and  the  court 
house  of  Rutland  County.  The  town  has  about  10,000  inha- 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


63 


bitants  and  is  very  prosperous  and  thrifty.  The  railroads 
which  centre  here  are  the  Rutland  Division,  Central  Vermont, 
from  Bellows  Falls  to  Burlington  and  Essex  Junction  ; the 
Harlem  extension,  running  through  Manchester  and  Ben- 
nington, Vermont,  and  Chatham  Four  Corners,  New  York, 
to  New  York  City;  and  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga,  by  which 
we  take  passage  for  the  Springs, 

The  Road  from  Rutland  to  Saratoga. 

Our  first  station  is  West  Rutland,  where  the  eye  is  attracted 
by  the  immense  quantities  of  marble  awaiting  shipment,  from 
the  great  quarries  already  described.  This  is  also  the  nearest 
station  to  the  Clarendon  Springs,  m^entioned  above,  and  here 
many  visitors  stop  and  take  stages  for  the  famous  resort. 
Castleton,  10  miles  from  Rutland,  176  from  Boston,  a beautiful 
village  of  1,000  inhabitants,  is  our  next  stopping  place.  This 
village  is  peculiarly  favored  by  nature.  It  lies  in  the  very  lap 
of  the  Green  mountains  which  rise  abruptly  on  the  east,  while 
the  rolling  country  to  the  west  stretches  away  to  the  shores  of 
Lake  Champlain.  It  contains  Lake  Bomoseen,  a clear  and 
beautiful  body  of  water  nine  miles  long  by  three  miles  wide, 
dotted  with  islands  and  embosomed  in  lofty  hills ; its  waters 
cold  and  limpid,  the  home  of  myriads  of  fine  fish.  Glen  Lake, 
a tributary  of  Bomoseen,  lies  to  the  west,  and  Castleton  river, 
a transparent,  rapid  stream,  rising  in  the  Green  mountains, 
flows  by  its  southern  extremity  on  its  way  to  join  the  Poultney 
river  at  Fairhaven,  whence  the  combined  stream  makes  its 
way  to  Lake  Champlain  over  three  falls  aggregating  200  feet 
in  hight.  With  such  natural  facilities,  and  the  well  known 
amiability  and  susceptibility  to  the  blandishments  of  the 
angler  of  Vermont  fish,  it  is  no  wonder  that  many  gentlemen 
alight  at  Clarendon,  whose  principal  baggage  consists  of  rods, 
hooks,  creels,  lines  and  flies.  But  not  alone  do  those  of  the 
male  sex  stop  at  Castleton.  Fair  and  fascinating  creatures, 
whom  nothing  less  than  a ‘‘  Saratoga”  or  two  can  pacify  in 
the  way  of  baggage,  are  also  dropping  off  here  by  every  train. 


64 


TOURIStS^  HAND  Book, 


They  say  they  come  to  see  Lake  Bomoseen,  to  climb  Bird, 
Herrick  and  Gilmore  mountains  and  to  visit  the  Falls,  but 
there  is  reason  to  fear  that  they  have  designs  upon  the  hardy 
fisherman  whose  prowess  we  sing;  else  why  those  clothes, 
why  the  scenes  of  gayety  at  the  hotel,  why  the  tales  of  flirta- 
tion that  have  become  tradition  in  the  neighborhoods?  The 
road  by  which  we  came  from  Rutland  lies  through  ‘‘  The 
Gate,”  a narrow  pass  between  the  Bird  and  Gilmore  moun- 
tains, of  which  we  spoke  above,  and  from  Castleton  we  pass 
through  Fairhaven,  where  we  may  stop,  if  so  inclined,  to 
visit  the  Falls  of  the  Castleton  river  or  continue  to  White- 
hall, 26  miles  from  Rutland,  192  from  Boston,  a town  of  6,000 
inhabitants,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake  Champlain. 
During  the  French  and  Indian  wars,  and  the  Revolution, 
Whitehall,  then  called  Skenesborough,  was  a place  of  much 
importance.  The  Champlain  canal  runs  hence  to  Troy,  con- 
necting the  lake  with  the  Hudson  river,  and  on  our  way  to 
Saratoga  the  slowly-moving  boats,  with  their  tugging  horses 
and  efficient  officers  and  crews,  are  in  sight  from  the  car  win- 
dows a good  share  of  the  way.  The  Lake  Champlain  steam- 
ers have  their  southern  terminus  here,  running  hence  to 
Ticonderoga,  Burlington,  Plattsburg,  Rouse’s  Point  and  way 
stations. 


An  Historic  and  Legendary  Legion. 

The  region  upon  which  we  are  now  entering  is  rich  in  his- 
torical and  legendary  lore.  In  the  old  days  the  possession  of 
the  Lake  was  deemed  of  such  importance  by  all  the  powers 
that  contended  for  the  supremacy,  that  this  territory  was 
fought  over  again  and  again,  and  successively  held  by  French, 
Indians,  English  and  Americans.  Every  village,  almost, 
bears  the  name  of  some  fort,  and  has  a crumbling  ruin,  or 
nearly  obliterated  earthwork,  or  at  least  a healthy  tradition,  to 
trot  out  in  support  of  its  claim.  Fort  Ann  is  the  first  of  these 
villages,  and  it  shows  the  remains  of  a redoubt  erected  in 
1756,  during  the  “ Old  French  War,”  to  command  the  head  of 


TO  UR  IS  TS’  HA  NT)  BOOH.  6 5 

boat  navigation  on  Wood  Creek.  Next  comes  Fort  Edward. 
Here  was  another  stronghold,  but  the  chief  features  of  interest 
attaching  to  the  place,  are  the  legends  of  Jane  McCrea  and 
Major  Israel  Putnam.  In  1777  during  Burgojne’s  invasion. 
Miss  McCrea,  the  affianced  bride  of  an  American  royalist  in 
the  invading  army,  was  at  the  house  of  a friend  near  the  fort. 
A party  of  the  Indian  allies  attacked  the  house  and  butchered 
all  the  inmates  save  Miss  McCrea.  They  took  her  with  them 
towards  the  camp,  but  fearing  pursuit,  killed  her  also,  threw 
her  body  into  a sj^ring  and  carried  her  scalp  into  the  presence 
of  Burgoyne,  demanding  the  price  of  a traitor’s  head.  The 
lady’s  lover  was  present  and  recognized  the  beautiful  hair. 
His  reason  forsook  him ; he  deserted  the  army,  and  wandering 
for  a time  he  died  by  his  own  hand.  The  other  legend  is  more 
cheerful.  In  the  winter  of  1757-8,  Israel  Putnam,  then  major, 
was  quartered  here.  The  barracks  took  fire  near  the  magazine, 
where  300  barrels  of  powder  were  stored.  Putnam  mounted 
a ladder  near  the  fire,  ordered  a line  of  men  formed  to  the 
river  and  buckets  of  water  passed  as  rapidly  as  possible  to 
him,  while  he  threw  them  on.  Putnam  stood  there  till  the 
outer  sheathing  of  the  magazine  was  ablaze.  Only  a single 
thickness  of  plank  intervened  between  him  and  death,  but  he 
wouldn’t  heed  the  entreaties  to  save  himself,  and  just  then  the 
barracks  fell  in,  the  danger  was  averted,  the  fire  was  soon 
subdued,  and  peace  and  happiness  reigned  supreme.  There 
is  n’t  much  of  the  fort  left  to  corroborate  the  story,  but  it  is 
doubtless  true.  It  was  just  like  “ Old  Put.”  At  Fort  Edward, 
we  first  touch  the  Hudson  River,  and  here  a branch  leaves  for 
Glen’s  Falls.  Forty  minutes  more  of  riding,  through  a level 
and  uninteresting  country,  and  we  arrive  at  Saratoga,  63 
miles  from  Rutland,  229  from  Boston.  Our  first  intimation 
of  approach  to  the  village  is  the  appearance  of  buildings  on 
the  left;  then  the  most  northerly  of  the  springs  is  seen,  the 
valley  opens  before  us,  and  in  a moment  we  whirl  up  to  an 
immensely  long  covered  platform  at  the  station,  and  step  out. 
We  are  greeted  by  hosts  of  hackmen  and  ’bus  drivers,  who. 


66 


TOLtjRISTS*  handbook. 


though  strangers  to  us,  hail  us  with  a heartiness  and  a fami- 
liarity, which  shows  that  they  expected  us  and  are  delighted 
at  our  arrival. 


The  Boston  and  Albany  Route. 

By  this  route,  we  take  the  cars  at  the  Boston  and  Albany 
depot,  corner  of  Beach  and  Albany  streets,  and  if  we  wish  to 
go  ‘‘through  by  daylight”  and  sleep  in  Saratoga  the  same 
night,  we  shall  take  the  8.30  A.  m.  train.  Should  we  choose 
however,  we  shall  be  amply  repaid  for  stoping  by  the  way  at 
several  points,  where  most  romantic  and  beautiful  scenery  is 
spread  out.  Securing  seats  on  the  right-hand  or  shady  side 
of  the  elegant  cars,  or  a cosily  curtained  section  of  the  Wagner 
palace,  we  trundle  out  through  deep  cuttings  alongside  of  or 
underneath  busy  streets,  until  the  Back  Bay  district  is  reached, 
when  a vast  expanse  of  gravel  stretches  out  like  a gray- 
brown  sea,  over  the  flats  once  covered  by  sparkling  waters, 
where  20  years  ago  or  less  little  boys  sailed  boats,  went  in 
swimming  and  Ashed  for  mummychugs.  A moment’s  halt 
is  made  at  the  “Know-nothing”  crossing  of  the  Provi- 
dence railroad  and  then  we  are  off  again.  Cottage  Farms, 
Allston,  where  are  the  shops  of  the  Boston  and  Albany  rail- 
road and  the  Beacon  race  track;  Brighton,  with  all  its  great 
cattle  yards  and  abattoir;  “all  the  Newtons,”  lovely  subur- 
ban villages,  which  give  to  strangers  some  of  their  plea- 
santest impressions  of  the  vicinity  of  Boston ; Auburndale, 
the  site  of  the  Laselle  female  seminary,  a noted  educational 
institution ; Riverside,  with  its  charming  view  of  meadow  and 
river  and  forest ; Wellesley,  with  its  beautiful  Lake  Wauban 
and  the  splendid  Durant  female  seminary  towering  beyond ; 
Natick,  the  house  of  Vice  President  Wilson,  (whose  modest 
white  house  is  pointed  out  to  visitors  with  as  much  pride  as  is 
the  soldiers’  monument  in  the  little  square  near  the  depot),  a 
town  where  shoes,  hats  and  base-balls  are  manufactured,  and 
in  the  early  days  of  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony,  the  site  of 
Eliot’s  Christian  Indian  community;  Cochituate  Lake  on  the 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


67 


right,  whence  an  aqueduct  of  20  miles  in  length  conveys  the 
water  to  the  city  of  Boston,  are  passed,  and  soon  we  draw  up 
for  a short  halt  at  South  Framingham. 

A Busy  Railroad  Centre. 

At  South  Framingham,  in  addition  to  the  vast  through 
traffic  of  the  Boston  and  Albany,  is  a very  considerable  rail- 
road centre  formed  by  the  junction  here  of  the  several  roads 
composing  the  system  of  lines  under  the  management  of  the 
Boston,  Clinton  and  Fitchburg.  The  main  road  runs  north- 
west through  Framingham  Centre,  a pretty  rural  village,  noted 
chiefly  as  the  site  of  the  State  Normal  School,  where  every  year 
a class  of  “sweet  girl  graduates  with  their  golden  hair”  go  forth 
to  the  easy  conquest  of  the  young  men  and  the  more  difficult 
task  of  teaching  the  young  idea  howto  shoot;  through  South- 
boro,  Marlboro,  Northboro  and  Berlin,  pretty  farming  towns ; 
through  Clinton,  a busy  village  at  the  junction  of  the  Wor- 
cester and  Nashua  railroad ; through  Pratt’s  Junction,  where 
the  Fitchburg  and  Worcester  is  crossed,  and  Leominster,  to 
a junction  with  the  various  northern  lines  at  Fitchburg.  The 
Mansfield  and  Framingham  Division  runs  southeast  18  miles, 
through  Sherborn,  Medfield  Junction,  where  it  connects  with 
the  Woonsocket  Division  of  the  New  York  and  New  England 
road ; Medfield,  Walpole,  where  it  crosses  the  main  line  of 
the  New  York  and  New  England,  South  Walpole,  Foxboro, 
and  Mansfield,  where  it  connects  with  the  Boston  and  Provi- 
dence, and  the  Taunton  Branch,  which  the  line  has  leased  as 
a connection  with  the  New  Bedford  Divison,  over  which 
passengers  and  freight  are  brought  from  the  seaboard  to  the 
mountains.  The  Lowell  and  Framingham  Division  runs 
north  28  miles,  through  Sudbury,  famed  in  colonial  history 
and  romance  especially  for  its  “Wayside  Inn”  of  Longfel- 
low’s poem ; through  West  Concord,  Acton,  Carlisle  and 
Chelmsford,  to  the  great  spindle  city,  where  another  connec- 
tion with  the  great  northern  lines  is  formed. 


68 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK. 


From  South  Framingham  also,  a branch  of  the  Boston  and 
Albany  runs  southward  twelve  miles,  through  Holliston  to 
Milford,  a busy  village.  Near  South  Framingham  is  Har- 
mony Grove,  famous  for  temperance,  woman’s,  spiritualist  and 
all  sorts  of  ‘‘off  color”  mass  meetings;  also  the  Methodist 
camp  ground.  From  South  Framingham  we  pursue  our 
course  westward,  following  the  Sudbury  river  some  distance, 
and  passing  Ashland,  Cordaville,  Southville  and  Westboro, 
(at  which  latter  place  is  the  State  Reform  School,  a water- 
cure  establishment  and  the  headquarters  of  the  sleigh-build- 
ing interest  in  this  State,)  Grafton,  Millbury,  (whence  a 
branch  track  runs  to  the  village  proper  3 miles  south,  a busy 
manufacturing  place,)  and  by'  a sharp  turn  to  the  right  we 
come  in  view  of  the  sparkling  waters  of  Lake  Quinsigamond, 
famed  in  years  gone  by  as  the  course  for  the  Yale-Harvard 
College  regattas,  and  know  that  we  are  approaching  Worcester. 
A few  moment’s  ride,  and  we  trundle  into  the  splendid  union 
depot,  one  of  the  finest,  if  not  the  finest  railroad  station  in 
New  England.  It  is  of  solid  granite  masonry  throughout, 
“ built  to  stand,”  and  is  514  feet  long  by  256  feet  wide,  with  a 
clock  tower  200  feet  high.  Though  built  by  the  Boston  and 
Albany  railroad,  it  accommodates  the  trains  of  the  Worcester 
and  Nashua,  Providence  and  Worcester,  Norwich  and  Wor- 
cester, Boston,  Barre  and  Gardner,  and  Fitchburg  and  Wor- 
cester railroads,  and  effectually  supersedes  the  several  isolated 
stations  hitherto  used  by  the  various  roads.  It  stands  on 
Washington  Square,  a few  rods  north-west  of  the  old  “lower 
depot  ” of  the  Boston  and  Albany,  and  a quarter-mile  south 
of  the  up-town  or  Foster  street  station. 

Worcester  and  its  Attractions. 

Worcester  is  the  second  city  in  Massachusetts  for  wealth 
and  population,  containing  over  50,000  inhabitants,  thirty 
churches,  many  thriving  manufactories  and  a number  of 
academic  institutions.  It  is  built  very  near  to  the  geogra- 
phical center  of  the  State,  and  accordingly  is  the  place  for 


'rOURISTS*  HANDBOOK, 


69 


holding  most  of  the  State  Conventions  of  the  p olitical  par- 
ties. Most  towns  are  located  bj  accident  of  settlement,  by 
reason  of  natural  advantages  or  some  similar  circumstance. 
Worcester  was  not  thus  placed,  but  was  located  and  settled  by 
order  of  the  Colonial  Legislature  of  Massachusetts  Bay  in 
1669,  as  a half-way-house  or  halting  place  between  Boston 
and  the  towns  in  the  Connecticut  Valley.  Thirty  families 
were  located  here  and  built  a stockade  against  the  “heathen,”, 
as  Lo  and  his  relatives  were  then  facetiously  termed,  but  “ye 
salvages  ” made  it  so  warm  for  the  settlers  that  in  a few  years 
the  place  was  abandoned.  In  1713  a new  settlement  was 
formed,  a church  built,  which  was  also  a citadel,  and  whither 
the  male  population  carried  arms  and  ammunition  when  at- 
tending services,  — in  fact,  a genuine  church-militant.  Wor- 
cester was  full  of  patriotism  during  the  Revolution  and  sent 
a good  sized  regiment,  the  Fifteenth  Mass.,  to  the  Continental 
army.  A handsome  monument  to  its  colonel,  Timothy  Bige- 
low, stands  on  the  Common.  It  was  dedicated  April  19,  186I, 
wdth  a speech  by  Judge  Thomas,  the  very  day  of  the  first 
bloodshed  of  the  rebellion,  when  the  Sixth  Massachusetts 
marched  through  Baltimore.  By  a singular  coincidence,  the 
Fifteenth  Massachusetts  regiment,  raised  here,  paraded  and 
received  its  colors  just  84  years  after  its  namesake  of  the  Revo- 
lution. Worcester  sent  several  regiments  and  many  fine  offi- 
cers to  the  Union  army  during  the  late  war.  The  bravery  of 
the  fallen  is  perpetuated  by  a magnificent  monument,  dedica- 
ted last  summer,  consisting  of  a tall  granite  column,  whose 
base  is  flanked  by  colossal  bronze  figures  of  soldiers,  represent- 
ing the  several  arms  of  the  service,  and  its  top  is  crowned  by  a 
globe  sustaining  a beautiful  statue  of  victory.  It  has  been 
mentioned  that  Worcester  was  not  located  by  reason  of  natural 
advantages,  yet  had  it  been,  a finer  site  could  not  have  been 
chosen.  Its  manufactures  have  been  developed  by  the  power 
afforded  by  the  Blackstone  river  which  flows  through  it ; its 
centrality  and  the  conformation  of  its  ground  have  made  it 
a great  railroad  junction,  while  healthfulness  and  attractive- 


70 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


ness  are  combined  in  its  position  among  a group  of  romantic 
hills.  Look  which  way  you  will,  a graceful  eminence  rises 
before  you,  and  generally  it  is  crowned  by  the  buildings  of 
some  college  or  academy.  There  are  the  Roman  Catholic 
College  of  the  Holy  Cross,  the  Oread  Seminary,  for  young 
ladies,  the  State  Normal  School,  the  Classical  and  English 
High  School,  the  Free  Industrial  School,  the  Baptist  Academy, 
•the  Highland  Military  School,  and  one  or  two  others,  all  pro- 
vided with  fine  buildings.  Other  objects  of  note  in  the  way 
of  buildings  are  the  structure  of  the  American  Antiquarian 
Society  on  Lincoln  square,  with  its  library  of  50,000  volumes, 
and  its  ancient  portraits,  its  museum  of  old  MSS.  and  curiosi- 
ties etc. ; the  old  Exchange  tavern,  where  Washington  and 
Lafayette  have  slept,  and  Mechanics’  Hall,  the  largest  in  tlj.e 
State,  where  political  conventions  are  held. 

Westward  from  Worcester. 

Continuing  our  westward  journey,  we  soon  arrive  at  West 
Brookfield,  having  passed  Rochdale,  Charlton,  Spencer,  East 
Brookfield  and  Brookfield,  all  smiling  and  fertile  farming 
towns.  West  Brookfield  is  noted  as  the  scene  of  a most  de- 
termined resistance  in  1675,  by  a little  colony  of  Ipswich 
men,  against  the  Nipmuck  Indians.  Huddled  in  a little  gar- 
rison house,  the  brave  colonists  defended  themselves  for  three 
days.  Then  the  Indians,  loading  a cart  with  flax  and  straw, 
set  fire  to  it,  and  pushed  it  up  against  the  house.  It  had 
already  began  to  blaze  up,  when  a sudden  shower  extin- 
guished the  flames,  and  a gallant  party  of  horsemen  from 
Lancaster,  30  miles  distant,  galloped  up  and  scattered  the 
heathens  like  chaff.  No  wonder  the  old  chroniclers  considered 
that  shower  a miracle  from  Heaven.  The  various  Brookfields 
are  now  noted  for  their  shoe  manufactories,  and  West  Brook- 
field, where  all  trains  stop,  has  a restaurant  in  the  station,  at 
which  the  best  milk  in  New  England  can  be  procured.  From 
West  Brookfield,  our  course  lies  along  the  Chicopee  river. 


ro  URIS  TS*  HA  NDBOOK.  7 I 

which  the  track  crosses  a dozen  times  or  so  before  reaching 
Palmer.  Some  of  the  glimpses  of  the  river  through  the  trees, 
dashing  over  brawling  cascades,  are  very  pretty.  En-route 
to  Palmer,  we  pass  the  Warren,  West  Warren  and  Brimfield 
stations,  notable  only  for  their  manufactures  and  general 
thrift.  Palmer  is  a stirring  town,  especially  since  it  has 
become  a great  railroad  centre.  Here  the  New  London 
Northern  Railroad  crosses  our  track,  running  from  the  Long 
Island  Sound  on  the  south  to  Grout’s  Corner  on  the  north, 
where  it  connects  with  various  northern  and  western  lines. 
Hence  also  diverge  the  Ware  River  Railroad  (leased  to  the 
Boston  and  Albany,  and  the  Athol  and  Enfield.)  Just  across 
the  Chicopee  river,  to  the  south,  we  see  the  huge,  white  build- 
ing of  the  State  Almshouse,  in  the  town  of  Monson.  Pass- 
ing Wilbraham  and  Indian  Orchard,  with  their  factories,  we 
descend  a steep  grade  of  about  four  miles,  and  enter  Spring- 
field. 


Springfield  and  its  Environs. 

Springfield,  98  miles  from  Boston,  104  from  Albany,  and 
135  from  New  York,  forming  the  natural  centre  for  the  roads 
from  those  places,  as  well  as  from  the  several  systems  of  lines 
to  the  north,  via  the  Connecticut  River  Railroad,  is  located 
on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  about  two  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Chicopee,  and  about  the  same  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Agawam,  which  comes  in  from  the  West. 
It  is  a city  of  about  30,000  inhabitants,  and  is  noted  for  its  fine 
scenery,  its  railroad  communications,  its  United  States  Ar- 
mory and  its  manufactories  of  railroad  cars  (Wason  Manufac- 
turing Co.),  of  trunks  and  harness,  of  small  arms,  (Smith 
and  Wesson  Manufacturing  Co.),  etc.  Springfield  was  settled 
in  1638,  by  a company  under  William  Pynchon,  and  burned 
by  the  Indians  in  1675,  while  the  trainbands  were  absent  de- 
fending Hadley.  Only  three  block-houses,  in  which  the 
inhabitants  took  refuge,  remained  standing,  and  one  of  these 


72 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


was  extant  at  a very  recent  date.  During  the  Revolution  a 
shop  for  the  repair  of  muskets,  and  a foundry  for  cannon 
were  established  here,  and  from  this  little  beginning  sprung 
the  great  United  States  Armory,  at  once  the  pride  of  residents 
and  the  wonder  of  visitors.  From  the  depot,  one  may  take  a 
carriage,  the  street  cars  or  omnibuses,  or  may  walk  down 
Main  to  State  street,  thence  eastward  half  a mile,  and  up  a 
rather  steep  ascent  to  the  entrance,  which  is  through  a fine 
large  gate,  breaking  the  monotony  of  a splendid  iron  fence 
which  encloses  a beautiful  natural  park  of  72  acres,  on  Arsenal 
Flill,  a broad,  nearly  level  plateau,  on  which  stands  the  quad- 
rangle of  massive  brick  buildings,  enclosing  a large  and 
handsome  green.  The  works  are  at  present  on  a peace  foot- 
ing, and  employ  only  500  to  700  men,  but  during  the  Rebellion 
the  works  ran  night  and  day,  some  3000  men  found  employ- 
ment and  about  800,000  stand  of  arms  were  manufactured.  In 
the  Arsenal,  a large  square  building  on  the  west  side  of  Union 
Square,  are  stored  175,000  stand  of  arms,  in  solid  squares, 
reaching  from  fioor  to  ceiling  of  the  lofty  rooms.  From  the 
deck  of  the  Arsenal  Tower,  a magnificent  panorama  spreads 
before  us.  On  the  north  are  Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke,  twin 
sentinels  at  the  gateway  of  the  river,  to  the  east  are  the  lofty 
table  lands  of  Willbraham  and  Ludlow,  and  to  the  west  West 
Springfield’s  fertile  farming  lands,  the  sinuous  Agawam  river 
and  the  hills  of  Russell  and  Chester  for  a background.  One 
mile  south  from  the  Armory  proper,  are  the  Water  Shops,  on 
the  Mill  river,  where  the  heavy  forgings  and  castings  are 
made  and  where  the  gun  barrels  are  tested.  There  are  many 
lovely  drives  in  and  around  Springfield.  Crescent  Hill,  with 
the  splendid  residences  of  O.  H.  Greenleaf,  J.  G.  Chase,  Geo. 
B.  Howard  and  many  other  wealthy  citizens.  Long  Hill, 
Round  Hill,  where  is  the  splendid  villa  of  Dr.  William  G. 
Breck ; Brightwood,  with  the  summer  residences  of  Dr.  J.  G. 
Holland  (Timothy  Titcomb)  and  George  M.  Atwater,  and 
many  other  beautiful  spots  can  be  visited  in  a short  circuit. 
The  City  Library  on  State  street,  is  a handsome  structure. 


TO  UK  IS  TS^  HA  HI)  BOOK. 


73 


exceedingly  coiiiincxlious  iind  well  arranged,  from  the  designs 
of  George  Hathorne,  the  architect,  of  New  York,  who  also 
built  the  splendid  villas  of  Dr.  Breck,  O.  II.  Greenleaf  and 
others  mentioned  above,  and  the  fine  buildings  of  the  Spring- 
field  Institution  for  savings,  corner  of  Main  and  State  streets, 
the  most  prominent  corner  in  the  city.  The  new  court  house 
on  Elm  street,  running  through  to  West  State  and  fronting  on 
Court  Square,  is  a massive  granite  structure  costing  $200,000. 
It  has  a tall  clock  tower,  balconies,  etc.,  the  Italian  style.  The 
North  and  South  Congregational  churches  (both  new),  the 
church  of  the  Unity,  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St. 
Michael,  the  Memorial  church  at  the  base  of  Round  Hill  and 
the  new’  State  street  Methodist  church  are  the  finest  religious 
edifices.  The  new  High  School  building  on  State  street, 
opposite  the  City  Library,  is  a large,  fine  and  commodious 
structure  of  brick  with  granite  trimmings,  and  a lofty  tower. 
There  are  two  fine  hotels,  the  Massasoit,  close  by  the  depot, 
long  famous  for  its  table,  and  the  Haynes  House,  corner  of 
Main  and  Pynchon  streets,  down  town,  away  from  the  noise 
and  smoke  of  the  railway,  and  everyway  a first-class  house. 
Its  owner,  Tilly  Haynes,  has  done  as  much  any  one  man  for 
the  growth  and  prosperity  of  Springfield,  and  is  the  owner  of 
the  neat  and  cosy  opera  house  on  the  opposite  corner.  Hamp- 
den Park,  the  famous  scene  of  the  Springfield  races,  lies  on 
the  alluvial  meadow  near  the  river,  north  of  the  city,  and  one 
of  the  finest  courses  in  the  country,  for  a rowing  regatta  is 
that  just  below  the  city.  Two  or  three  miles  north  are  the 
villages  of  Chicopee  and  Chicopee  Falls,  noted  for  their  cot- 
ton manufactures,  and  the  former  as  well  for  the  Ames  Manu- 
facturing Company’s  works,  whence  were  turned  out  thousands 
of  swords  and  hundreds  of  cannon  and  equipments  during 
the  rebellion,  and  where  were  cast  the  superb  bronze  doors 
of  the  Senate  at  Washington,  the  equestrian  statue  of  Wash- 
ington in  the  Boston  Public  Garden,  and  the  statues  of  many 
Soldiers’  monuments. 


4 


74 


TO  UR  IS  TS'  HA  NDBOOK. 


Up  Through  the  Berkshire  Hihs. 

Leaving  Springfield  the  train  crosses  the  Connecticut  river 
on  a splendid  iron  open  bridge  recently  built,  passes  through 
the  southern  portion  of  West  Springfield,  along  the  left  bank 
of  the  Aga^vam  or  Westfield  river,  through  Westfield,  (the 
Indian  Woronoco),  and  famous  for  its  manufactures  of  whips 
(a  quarter  of  million  yearly),  and  genuine  Havana  cigars  (of 
Connecticut  Valley  seed  leaf,  — 10,000,000  to  12,000,000  a 
year).  For  its  State  Normal  School  with  its  200  embryo 
school  ma’ms,  and  its  Soldiers’  Monument,  surmounted  by  a 
bronze  statue  in  heroic  size.  Here  the  New  Haven  and  North- 
ampton Railroad  crosses  our  line,  and  furnishes  another  con- 
nection between  the  mountains  and  the  seaboard.  From 
Westfield  we  ascend  the  valley  of  the  river,  with  Mounts 
Tekoa  and  Pochassic  towering  above  us  on  the  right,  pass 
the  small  stations  of  Russell  and  Huntington,  and  stop  at 
Chester,  a considerable  center  of  communication  and  traffic 
with  the  surrounding  mountain  towns,  and  the  location  of  a 
valuable  emery  mine.  From  Chester,  the  steep  ascent  of  the 
mountains  begin,  and  we  climb  for  thirteen  miles  at  the  rate 
of  80  feet  to  the  mile.  Some  long  stretches  have  gradients  of 
82  feet.  Becket,  Washington,  the  highest  point  on  the  road, 
Hinsdale  and  Dalton,  hill  towns,  famous  for  their  rocks,  ro- 
mantic scenery  and  exhilarating  air,  are  passed,  and  we  arrive 
at  the  elegant  station  tn  Pittsfield. 

Pittsfield  and  its  Beauties. 

Pittsfield,  the  capitol  of  Berkshire  county,  is  one  of  the 
youngest  cities  in  the  State,  with  about  12,000  inhabitants, 
many  noted  manufactories  and  a great  variety  of  beauties, 
natural  and  artificial.  It  is  53  miles  west  of  Springfield,  and 
1 51  from  Boston.  Among  the  former,  must  preeminently  rank 
its  ladies,  the  fame  of  whose  beauty  extends  throughout  the 
Commonwealth.  No  susceptible  bachelor  can  risk  a visit  to 
Pittsfield,  especially  to  the  vicinity  of  Maplewood  Institute,  if 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK, 


75 


he  expects  to  get  home  heart-whole.  In  the  same  class 
(natural  beauties),  must,  of  course,  be  placed  the  mountains 
and  lakes,  which  environ  Pittsfield  on  either  hand.  The  town 
is  built  on  a lofty  plateau,  some  1200  feet  above  the  sea  level, 
and  the  lloosac  mountains  to  the  east,  and  the  Taconies  to 
the  west,  completely  encircle  it.  Lake  Ashley,  whence  comes 
the  abundant  and  crystal  water  supply,  Lake  Onota,  Lake 
Pontoosuc,  Berry  Pond,  West  Pond,  Melville  Lake  or  Lilly 
Bowl,  Silver  Lake,  Sylvan  Lake,  and  several  nameless  lochs 
are  near  the  city,  and  are  frequently  visited.  The  Wahconah 
Falls,  Lulu  Cascade,  South  Mountain  (whence  a magnificent 
view  is  gained),  and  other  hills  and  valleys  are  worthy  of 
visits.  New  Lebanon  Springs,  a popular  watering  place,  lies 
some  15  miles  west,  and  on  the  way  thither  is  the  famous 
Shaker  Village.  Among  the  artificial  beauties  of  Pittsfield 
the  fine  Soldiers’  Monument,  in  the  centre  of  the  old  green, 
attracts  attention  first.  It  bears  a magnificent  bronze  statue 
by  Launt  Thompson,  of  a color  bearer,  standing  on  a massive 
pedestal.  The  dedication,  September  24,  1872,  called  together 
the  largest  crowd  ever  gathered  in  Berkshire  county,  and  was 
the  occasion  of  a grand  celebration.  The  elegant  white  mar- 
ble Court  House,  the  Berkshire  Athenaeum  Building,  the  fine 
white  marble  Cathedral  of  St.  Joseph,  the  Berkshire  Life 
Insurance  Company’s  Building,  and  the  Maplewood  Institute 
(surrounded  by  a magnificent  grove),  are  among  the  finest 
public  buildings.  At  Pittsfield,  the  Ilousatonic  Railroad  rim- 
ing south,  through  Lenox,  Lee,  Stockbridge  and  Great  Bar- 
rington, all  famous  for  their  magnificent  scenery,  enters 
Connecticut,  and  finally  reaches  Long  Island  Sound  at  Bridge- 
port. The  North  Adams  branch  runs  north  from  Pittsfield, 
through  Lanesboro,  Cheshire  and  South  Adams,  and  forms 
a connection  with  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  line. 

Across  the  Line  and  so  to  Albany. 

Passing  to  the  southwest  a few  miles,  we  reach  the  State 
line  and  cross  the  imaginary  barrier  into  New  York  State. 


76 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


From  this  point  we  traverse  Canaan,  which,  though  not  ‘‘  a 
land  flowing  with  milk  and  honey”  exactly,  is  a romantic 
and  mountainous  town  enough,  and  soon  arrive  at  Chatham. 
This  place  is  particularly  notable  as  the  crossing  point  of 
the  Harlem  Extension  Railroad,  from  New  York  City  to 
Bennington  and  Rutland,  Vt.,  and  as  the  point  whence  the 
Hudson  and  Boston  Railroad  (leased  by  the  Boston  and 
Albany)  branches  off  in  a southwesterly  curve  to  Hudson,  a 
thriving  city  on  the  noble  river  of  that  name.  From  Chat- 
ham our  course  is  a little  west  of  north,  through  Kinder- 
hook,  Schodack  and  Clinton,  the  scenery  growing  less  wild 
all  the  way  to  Greenbush,  or  East  Albany,  on  the  Hudson, 
which  we  cross  on  a splendid  open  bridge,  and  are  landed  in 
Albany.  This  city  and  the  route  hence  to  Saratoga  have 
already  been  described. 


CHAPTER  III. 

The  Hoosac  Tunnel  Koute  to  Saratoga. 

from  the  Fitchburg  depo^ 
precisely  as  described  for 
the  Rutland  route,  our 
course  follows  that  till 
we  reach  South  Ash- 
burnham,  6r  miles  from 
Boston,  where  a ‘‘Y” 
sets  us  olf  in  a more 
westerly  direction,  and 
we  are  soon  speeding 
over  the  Vermont  and 
Massachusetts  Division. 
From  Wachusett,  stages 
run  to  Princeton,  a few 
miles  south,  where  is  a 
popular  Summer  resort, 
and  whence  Wachusett  Mountain,  already  mentioned,  is  as- 
cended. Gardner  and  Templeton,  hill  towns,  noted  for  their 
manufactories  of  wooden  ware,  are  passed  within  ten  miles 
distance,  and  we  enter  the  fertile  and  picturesque  valley  of 
Miller’s  River.  The  railroad  is  elevated  on  an  embankment, 
giving  fine  glimpses  of  Monadnock,  the  intermediate  hills  and 
the  river  at  our  feet.  Baldwinville,  Royalston,  Athol,  Orange, 
Wendell  and  Erving  are  passed  in  the  next  20  miles.  All  are 

(77) 


78  TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 

quiet  little  towns,  noted  for  their  rural  beauty  and  for  oc- 
casional bits  of  wild  and  romantic  scenery,  of  which  we  gain 
only  too  brief  views  from  the  car  windows  as  we  fly  past. 
At  Grout’s  Corner,  98  miles  from  Boston,  the  New  London 
Northern  Railroad,  from  Long  Island  Sound,  up  through 
Willimantic,  Conn.,  Palmer  and  Amherst,  Mass.,  crosses  our 
route,  and  continues  northward  through  South  Vernon  to 
Brattleboro,  Vt.  The  road  follows  the  Connecticut  river 
eleven  miles  to  South  Vernon,  a small  and  unimportant  vil- 
lage, and  thence  ten  miles  further  to  Brattleboro,  a thriving 
manufacturing  town,  noted  as  the  birthplace  of  Colonel  James 
Fisk,  Jr.,  and  the  place  of  his  burial.  A splendid  monument 
to  his  memory,  the  work  of  Larkin  G.  Mead,  the  sculptor, 
was  dedicated  with  imposing  ceremonies  on  the  30th  May, 
(Memorial  Day)  1874,  the  Ninth  Regiment  of  New  York 
National  Guard,  which  Colonel  Fisk  commanded,  participat- 
ing. Here  a pleasant  stopping  place  will  be  found  at  the 
Brattleboro  House,  owned  by  Jacob  Estey,  Esq.,  a prominent 
citizen,  and  ably  managed  by  Mr.  H.  A.  Kilburn,  whose  long 
experience  in  hotel  keeping,  insures  the  comfort  of  his  guests. 
The  house  has  been  remodeled  in  excellent  style  and  all  the 
comforts  are  to  be  found  here.  Six  miles  from  Brattleboro 
are  the  famous  Guilford  Springs.  From  Grout’s  Corner  the 
route  leaves  the  Miller’s  River  valley,  and  passing  through 
the  town  of  Montague,  crosses  the  Connecticut  river  on  an 
open  bridge,  which  affords  a fine  view  in  either  direction  of 
the  beautiful  stream  and  the  romantic  scenery  of  its  banks. 
Just  below  this  point,  the  Deerfield  river  empties  into  the 
Connecticut,  from  the  west;  we  cross  it  and  proceed  up  its 
valley  to  Greenfield,  106  miles  from  Boston,  the  county  seat 
of  Franklin  county. 

Greenfield  and  its  Environs. 

Greenfield  is  a beautiful  village,  rural  in  its  appearance 
and  charming  in  its  location,  though  in  its  industries  and  its 


to  UR  IS  ’/'S'  II A NO  B0Ok\ 


79 


population  it  is  a thrifty  and  j)rosperons  town.  It  lies  spread 
out  upon  the  fertile  meadows  which  border  the  Connecticut, 
the  Deerfield  and  the  Green  rivers.  The  latter  gives  its 
name  and  furnishes  the  power  to  the  Russell  cutlery  works, 
which  employ  some  600  men  and  turn  out  immense  quanti- 
ties of  goods  yearly.  Here  are  also  woolen  mills,  tool  facto- 
ries, etc.,  among  the  industries  of  the  place.  The  square  in 
the  centre  of  the  village  is  one  of  the  prettiest  examples  of 
the  rural  New  England  “ plaza;”  its  soldiers’  monument  in 
the  middle  being  fronted  and  overlooked  by  the  Town  Hall, 
the  Court  House,  and  a fine  stone  church,  while  the  sides  of 
the  square  are  filled  in  with  handsome  residences,  stores,  etc. 
There  are,  perhaps,  as  many  objects  of  interest  and  places  of 
favorite  resort  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Greenfield  as  near 
any  other  place  in  New  England.  Not  only  have  the  numer- 
ous rivers  which  course  down  from  the  hills  produced  many 
objects  of  wild  and  romantic  beauty,  but  tradition  and  his- 
tory throw  their  charm  ov^er  the  region,  and  take  us  back  to 
the  early  days  when  the  settlers  took  their  lives  in  their 
hands  and  only  held  on  to  them  by  the  bravery  with  which 
they  fought  the  heathen  until  they  had  driven  them  out. 
Near  this  place  the  Connecticut  makes  a descent  of  36  feet, 
forming  a waterfall,  which  Dr.  Hitchcock  pronounces  the 
most  interesting  in  the  State.  The  Turner’s  Falls  Company 
has  here  built  a huge  curved  dam,  and  established  manufacto- 
ries which  are  expected  to  some  day  rival  Lowell  and  Law- 
rence. Deerfield,  a quiet  farming  town,  lies  five  miles  south 
of  Greenfield.  Coleraine,  Leyden  and  Shelburne  are  towns 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  which  each  has  a gorge  to 
boast;  a dark,  deep,  narrow  chasm,  cut  by  the  waters  of  the 
rivers  which  course  through  them,  adorned  with  cascades 
and  set  in  a framework  of  lofty  hills.  Arthur’s  Seat  and  the 
Poet’s  Seat  are  high  and  romantic  hills  overlooking  the 
neighboring  villages,  the  rich  intervales,  and  the  meander- 
ing streams.  Leaving  Greenfield,  the  road  makes  a detour  to 
the  south  to  avoid  the  disagreeable  alternative  of  climbing 


8o 


To  17J^/S  TS^  HA  NDBOOk', 


over  Arthur’s  Seat,  and  then,  following  the  course  of  the 
Deedield  river,  enters  tfie  dark  and  gloomy  but  majestic 
Deerfield  Gorge,  through  which  the  river  finds  its  way  be- 
tween Shelburne  and  Conway.  So  narrow  is  this  defile  that, 
before  the  construction  of  the  railway,  enthusiastic  natural- 
ists and  lovers  of  the  romantic  could  hardly  pick  their  way 
on  foot  through  it.  At  Shelburne  Falls,  129  miles  from  Bos- 
ton, the  river  leaps  downward  over  a succession  of  giant 
stairs,  which  look  as  if  hewn  in  the  solid  rock,  finding  a new 
level  150  feet  below.  Here  is  a large  cutlery  establishment. 
Passing  through  Buckland,  Charlemont  and  Zoar,  small  hill- 
towns,  noted  for  their  bold  and  rugged  peaks,  their  romantic 
glens,  and  the  flavor  of  tradition  dating  back  to  the  old 
Indian  wars,  we  reach  Hoosac  Tunnel  Station,  136  miles 
from  Boston,  and  get  our  first  view  of  the  world-famous 
mountain  and  the  yawning  entrance  to  the  ‘‘  great  bore.” 

The  Hoosac  Tunnel  and  its  History. 

The  situation  of  the  mountain  (which  is  not  only  the  great 
barrier  betw’een  east  and  west,  but,  as  it  were,  the  centre  of 
attraction  to  visitors  among  the  northern  Berkshire  hills) 
may,  at  the  outset,  need  some  explanation.  The  Hoosac 
Mountain  has  two  crests  with  an  intermediate  valley;  the 
Deerfield  river  washes  the  eastern  base  and  the  Hoosac  the 
western.  Most  tunnels  are  built  on  an  ascending  grade,  as 
some  descent  is  necessary  to  carry  off  the  water;  but  these 
two  rivers  being  at  precisely  the  same  height  above  tide- 
water, the  mountain  had  to  be  entered  at  the  same  point  at 
both  ends,  so  that  the  only  way  to  secure  drainage  was  to 
have  a summit  at  the  centre,  from  which  the  grade  descends 
about  26  feet  in  the  mile  to  either  portal.  The  crest  over- 
looking the  Deerfield  valley  is  about  1,450  feet  above  the 
riverbed;  the  Hoosac  peak  is  1,750  feet,  and  the  lowest  de- 
pression between  these  tops  is  some  800  feet  above  the 
grade. 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


8l 


Description  of  the^Tunnel. 

According  to  tlie  terms  of  the  last  contract,  which  was 
agreed  upon  in  1S69,  and  under  which  the  tunnel  was  com- 
pleted, one  railroad  track  was  to  be  laid  through  its  length, 
and  all  unnecessary  material  removed  by  the  first  day  of 
March,  1874.  The  tunnel  was  not  fully  in  readiness  for  use 
at  the  time  specified  in  the  contract;  but  the  contractors  who 
undertook  the  work  so  faithfully  performed  their  duty  that 
the  State  did  not  insist  upon  too  rigid  a fulfilment  of  the  let- 
ter of  the  agreement.  In  no  better  way  can  the  magnitude  of 
the  undertaking  be  made  manifest,  than  by  giving  a few  sta- 
tistics in  regard  to  the  tunnel.  It  is  25.031  feet  in  length, 
and  nearly  midway  in  its  length  rises  the  central  shaft,  which 
terminates  near  the  top  of  Hoosac  Mountain,  and  is  1,040 
feet  deep.  This  shaft  is  oval  in  form,  the  major  axis  of 
27  feet  being  coincident  with  the  line  of  the  tunnel,  and 
the  minor  axis  being  15  feet.  It  has  been  said  that  the  sec- 
tions on  either  hand  of  the  central  shaft  were  of  nearly 
equal  length.  The  section  opening  at  the  eastern  portal  is 
12,837  while  that  to  the  west  of  the  central  shaft 

is  in  length  12,194  feet. 

The  First  Plan  for  a Tunnel. 

It  was  as  long  ago  as  1825,  that  a Board  of  Commissioners 
was  duly  appointed  to  consider  the  practicability  of  building  a 
canal  from  Boston  to  the  Hudson  river,  having  its  western 
terminus  at  the  place  where  the  great  Erie  Canal,  the  pride  of 
the  time,  emptied  its  waters  into  the  river.  After  a careful 
examination  into  the  various  routes  which  were  proposed, 
with  more  or  less  eagerness  and  zeal,  by  the  rising  politicians 
of  the  Commonwealth  in  that  day,  the  Commissioners  sub- 
mitted a report  in  favor  of  following  the  course  of  the  Deer- 
field and  Hoosac  rivers,  and  of  passing  through  the  Berkshire 
hills  by  means  of  a tunnel  through  the  Hoosac  Mountain. 
4* 


82 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


But  just  as  the  subject  began  to  be  discussed,  the  railroad 
began  to  be  heard  of ; so  that,  in  the  interest  and  enthusiasm 
which  was  felt  for  the  new  mode  of  conveyance,  all  the  labor 
and  all  the  arguments  of  the  Canal  Commission  were  forgot- 
ten. 

The  First  Charter. 

With  the  history  of  the  railroad  in  this  Commonwealth  our 
description  has  to  do  only  so  far  as  it  is  connected  and  inter- 
woven with  the  history  of  the  tunnel ; but  it  may  be  said  that 
the  tunnel  line  had  its  birth  when  the  Vermont  and  Massa- 
chusetts Railroad  Company  was  formed.  One  year  before, 
the  Fitchburg  road  had  been  built  in  a thorough  and  substan- 
tial manner  in  the  short  space  of  less  than  two  years.  Only 
six  years  after  the  completion  of  the  last-named  road,  a 
charter  was  granted  by  the  General  Court,  acting  in  obedi- 
ence to  popular  demand,  to  the  Troy  and  Greenfield  Railroad 
Company,  giving  the  corporation  the  right  to  build  their  line 
from  near  Greenfield  to  the  State  line  at  Williamstown,  and 
there  to  connect  with  a railroad  which  should  be  built  from 
Troy  to  that  point.  There  was  no  mention  made  in  the  char- 
ter of  a tunnel  through  Hoosac  Mountain,  but  it  is  quite  evi- 
dent that  the  tunnel  formed  a part ‘of  the  plan. 

Application  for  State  Aid. 

Subscriptions  to  the  capital  stock  were  few  and  far  between, 
and,  before  a year  had  elapsed,  the  corporation  determined  to 
apply  to  the  General  Court  for  a loan  of  the  State’s  credit ; 
and  it  was  in  the  Legislature  of  18^1  that  the  contest  on  the 
tunnel  began.  There  were  to  be  found  many  who  remon- 
strated against  the  State’s  taking  any  action  in  the  matter ; 
but,  after  mature  deliberation,  the  committee  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  $1,948,557  was  a sum  more  than  enough  to  finish 
the  tunnel,  and  that  allowing  plenty  of  time  for  accidents  and 
hindrances,  1556  working  days  would  amply  suffice  for  the 
accomplishment  of  the  work  if  no  shaft  were  sunk.  With  a 


TO  UR  IS  TS*  11 A ND  BOOK, 


83 


shaft,  the  committee  were  sanguine  enoiigli  to  suppose  that 
the  tunnel  could  be  completed  in  1954  days.  The  discussion 
was  not  very  brisk,  however,  until  the  plan  for  State  aid  had 
been  broached ; and  the  editor  of  every  country  paper  in  the 
Commonwealth  had  then  something  to  say  on  the  subject. 
In  the  Legislature  the  contest  was  slowly  but  fiercely  carried 
on;  and  on  the  12th  of  May  the  project  for  a State  loan  was 
defeated  by  the  strong  vote  of  108  in  favor  to  237  opposed. 
In  1852  the  vexed  subject  was  dropped,  the  managers  of  the 
Troy  line  doubtless  feeling  that  there  was  nothing  to  be  ex- 
pected from  the  General  Court  of  that  year ; but,  in  the  year 
following,  the  corporation  again  appeared  at  the  bar  of  the 
Legislature,  asking  for  a loan  from  the  State.  On  the  26th  of 
April,  in  the  closing  days  of  the  session,  the  bill  was  passed 
to  be  engrossed  by  a vote  of  143  to  96.  But  so  much  opposi- 
tion was  manifested,  not  only  by  some  of  the  most  influential 
journals  of  the  time,  but  by  men  whose  opinion  was  powerful 
in  influencing  the  popular  mind,  that,  when  the  measure 
came  up  for  final  action,  the  loan  bill  was  lost  and  the  tunnel 
postponed  for  still  another  year.  In  the  following  year,  how- 
ever, the  advocates  of  State  aid  renewed  the  contest,  and  had 
the  satisfaction  of  finding  their  labors  at  last  crowned  with 
success. 

The  First  Loan  Granted. 

The  law  providing  for  the  first  Hoosac  Tunnel  loan  was 
drawn  up  with  great  care,  and  even  the  opponents  of  the 
tunnel  conceded  that  no  pains  were  spared  to  keep  the  credit 
of  the  Commonwealth  untarnished  in  the  transaction,  which 
it  was  confidently  predicted  would  make  the  State  bankrupt 
before  20  years.  The  sum  of  $2,000,000  in  sterling  bonds 
was  fixed  upon  as  the  amount  to  be  loaned  by  the  State,  and 
to  be  paid  in  instalments  of  $100,000  each.  In  order  to  pro- 
perly provide  for  the  State’s  credit,  various  regulations  were 
made.  Under  these  restrictions  the  enterprise  did  not  attract 
capital,  and  subscriptions  were  sent  in  with  alarming  infre- 
quency. 


84 


TOURISTS'  handbook. 


The  Earliest  Contracts. 

But  nevertheless  the  contract  for  the  road,  which  had  hither- 
to existed  only  on  paper  and  in  the  imaginations  of  its  pro- 
jectors, was  awarded  in  spite  of  the  scarcity  of  funds ; and  the 
work  of  constructing  the  line,  tunnel  and  all,  was  given  in 
1S55  to  Messrs.  E.  W.  Sewell  & Co.  of  Philadelphia,  for  the 
sum  of  $3,500,000,  which  was  subsequently  annulled.  But 
hardly  had  two  months  elapsed  when  negotiations  were  en- 
tered into  with  the  firm  of  Hermann  Haupt  & Co. ; and  in  July, 
1856,  the  first  contract  was  made  with  those  gentlemen,  who 
seem  to  have  had  great  confidence  in  the  success  of  the  enter- 
prise. By  the  agreement,  Messrs.  Haupt  & Co.  were  to  build 
the  road  and  tunnel  for  the  sum  of  $3,880,000,  the  money  to 
be  obtained  as  follows  : From  the  Commonwealth,  $2,000,- 
000;  in  mortgage  bonds  of  the  company,  $900,000;  in  capital 
stock,  $598,000;  in  cash,  $382,000.  Six  thousand  shares  of 
the  stock  were  to  be  taken  by  Haupt  & Co.,  no  cash  assess- 
ments to  be  laid  thereon,  but  the  amount  due  to  be  paid  in 
work,  as  stock  credits.  After  another  application  for  State 
aid,  in  1857,  Legislature  voted  to  send  a special  committee 
to  the  tunnel  itself,  and  to  make  a report  on  the  condition  of 
matters.  This  was  the  first  of  the  many  official  visits  which 
legislators  have,  from  time  to  time,  paid  to  the  romantic 
neighborhood  of  Hoosac  Mountain.  In  a month’s  time,  the 
committee  made  a report,  showing  that  621  feet  had  been 
pierced  at  the  eastern  portal,  and  185  feet  at  the  west  of  the 
mountain  ; and  thereupon  arose  the  most  famous  controversy 
in  the  history  of  the  Hoosac  Tunnel.  On  the  question  of  modi- 
fying the  requirements  of  the  loan  act,  there  were  presented, 
finally,  two  reports.  The  majority  and  the  minority — the 
last  consisting  of  one  member  — in  the  committee  agreed  that 
the  rigor  of  the  act  should  be  relaxed ; and  all  but  one  obsti- 
nate gentleman  were  willing  to  be  liberal  with  the  company, 
and  give  them  every  reasonable  opportunity  to  complete  the 
work  which  they  had  in  hand.  On  the  14th  of  May,  there- 


TO  UR  IS  TS'  HA  NDBOOK. 


fore,  a bill  was  passed  by  both  houses  of  the  Legislature  by 
heavy  majorities,  and  the  matter  was  vetoed  by  Governor 
Henry  J.  Gardner  of  “Know  Nothing”  fame. 

A Legislative  Investigation. 

In  iS6o,  after  various  vicissitudes,  it  occurred  to  the  Legis- 
lature that  it  would  be  well  for  a committee  to  pay  a visit  to 
Hoosac  and  to  see  how  the  work  was  going  on.  That  there 
was  any  suspicion  that  the  corporation  and  the  contractors 
were  not  doing  all  that  was  required  by  law  there  seems  to  be 
no  evidence.  But  the  committee  found  a state  of  things 
around  Hoosac  Mountain  which  they  little  anticipated.  The 
State  Engineer,  in  his  report  on  the  condition  of  the  road  in 
1858,  said  that  “ the  total  length  of  rails  laid  was  seven  miles, 
138  feet,”  but  when  the  committee  came  to  enquire  into  the 
subject,  it  was  found  that  the  road  was  not  completed  for  that 
distance,  but  that  there  were  several  places  where  the  road 
was  not  passable.  In  January,  i860,  the  third  instalment  of 
scrip  had  been  paid,  it  being  certified  that  the  road  had  been 
graded  three  miles  further.  But  the  committee  found  out 
that  in  this  length  of  three  miles  there  were  fourteen  gaps, 
every  point  where  a bridge,  culvert  or  cutting  was  to  be  made, 
had  been  left  untouched.  This  statement  was  submitted  by 
the  committee  to  the  Legislature,  without  note  or  comment, 
and  the  matter  was  remanded  to  the  special  committee  on  the 
tunnel. 

The  Haupt  Contract  Annulled. 

The  company  struggled  on  with  the  work  during  the  year, 
and  for  nearly  half  the  year  following;  until  in  July,  1861,  the 
State  Engineer,  finding  that  the  contractors  failed  to  do  the 
prescribed  amount  of  work,  refused  to  certify  their  bills,  and 
the  Troy  and  Greenfield  corporation,  after  so  many  years  of 
hard  work,  laid  down  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  enterprise,  and  so 
the  history  of  the  project  under  private  management  came  to 
an  end.  For  two  years  nothing  was  done,  though  Goverpor 


86 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOIC. 


Andrew,  in  his  message  to  the  Legislature,  in  1862,  recom- 
mended the  General  Court  to  take  prompt  action.  The  whole 
subject  was,  earlj  in  the  session,  referred  to  a special  com- 
mittee, who  gave  a patient  hearing  to  all  parties  interested, 
and,  in  March,  presented  a report,  with  whose  conclusions 
each  member  of  the  committee  agreed.  This  report  regarded 
the  faith  of  the  State  as  pledged  to  an  investment  of  at  least 
$2,000,000,  on  account  of  the  tunnel,  and  saw  no  reason  why 
the  State  could  not  undertake  the  work  single-handed.  The 
action  of  the  State  Engineer,  sustained  by  the  opinion  of 
the  Attorney-General,  the  Hon.  Dwight  Foster,  was  declared 
to  have  resulted  from  a misapprehension  of  the  meaning  of 
the  legislative  act  of  i860.  The  committee,  on  the  assump- 
tion that  “no  one  contemplated  aid  from  the  State  to  an 
extent  exceeding  $2,000,000,”  recommended  that  the  road  east 
of  the  tunnel  should  be  completed  by  the  State,  at  an  expense 
not  greater  than  $195,000;  and  that  the  work  of  tunnelling 
should  be  paid  after  a “red-tape”  system,  which  need  not 
here  be  given,  as  the  bill  never  passed  the  Senate,  and  was 
never  heard  of  in  the  House.  The  measure  was  lost  on  the 
2ist  of  April,  by  the  casting  vote  of  ex-Governor  Clifford,  and 
in  its  place  a measure  was  offered  by  the  Hon.  William  D. 
Swan,  of  Dorchester,  which  provided  that  the  State  should 
at  once  possess  itself  of  the  road  and  tunnel,  and  proceed 
to  finish  it,  in  any  way  thought  best;  and,  when  done,  to 
run  it  or  leave  it,  as  might  be  thought  advisable.  The  bill 
passed  both  houses,  with  an  amendment  limiting  the  entire 
expenditure  to  J^e  incurred  by  the  State,  under  this  and  all 
previous  bills,  to  $2,000,000,  and  Governor  Andrew  approved 
the  measure  on  the  28th  of  April. 

State  Commissioners  Appointed. 

The  State  having,  in  spite  of  a vigorous  opinion,  commit- 
ted itself  to  the  completion  of  the  tunnel,  if  the  project  was 
a thing  to  be  accomplished  by  mortals,  three  Commissioners, 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


87 


Messrs.  John  W.  Brooks,  S.  M.  Felton  and  Alexander  Holmes, 
were  appointed,  who  entered  upon  their  work  early  in  May. 
The  directors  of  the  Troy  and  Greenfield  road,  voted  in 
August,  to  surrender  the  property  of  the  corporation  to  the 
State,  and  on  the  13th  of  October,  after  some  necessary  de- 
lays, the  President  of  the  road,  and  the  firm  of  Hermann 
Haupt  & Co.,  submitted  to  the  act  of  the  State  and  relin- 
quished all  right,  title  and  interest  in  the  tunnel.  Nothing 
had  been  done  on  the  tunnel  since  the  Haupt  contract  had 
been  cancelled  in  1861 ; and  the  mountain,  when  the  Com- 
mission resumed  operations  in  August,  1863,  had  been  pierced 
only  at  the  east  end  to  any  extent,  and  there  only  to  a dis- 
tance which  was  less  than  one-tenth  of  the  smallest  estimate 
of  the  length  of  the  shaft  when  completed.  The  five  years 
of  tunnelling,  under  the  State  Commission,  forms  an  interest- 
ing chapter  in  the  history  of  the  great  Hoosac  bore,  and 
makes  a record  of  steady  and  persevering  work,  in  the  face  of 
every  obstacle,  of  which  those  concerned  may  well  feel  an 
honest  pride,  although  they  can  boast  of  but  little  actually 
accomplished. 

Compressed  Air  as  a Motive  Power. 

Up  to  this  time  all  the  actual  work  had  been  accomplished 
by  hand  power.  The  much  vaunted  “boring  machines,” 
which  were  to  run  straight  through  the  mountain,  had  left 
only  their  unpleasant  memories  behind  them.  But  just  at 
this  time  the  use  of  compressed  air  as  a motive  power  began 
to  be  discussed.  In  the  previous  year’s  session,  opinions  had 
been  given  in  favor  of  the  project ; and  the  Commission  now 
thought  in  what  way  such  motor  power  might  be  attained. 
After  much  discussion  it  was  decided  to  dam  the  Deerfield 
River  at  a point  about  three-quarters  of  a mile  from  the  eastern 
portal,  and  bringing  the  water  from  thence  to  the  tunnel  by  a 
canal,  thus  securing  a fall  of  about  30  feet.  The  project  pro- 
voked a storm  of  opposition,  and  was  characterized  as  a great 
and  most  costly  blunder.  But  the  Commissioners  stoutly 


88 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


maintained  its  utility,  and  asserted  that  it  would  not  only 
furnish  a constant  supply  of  compressed  air  at  the  east  end, 
but  that  its  benefits  could  reach  the  central  and  new  west 
shaft  workings,  with  only  the  expense  of  carrying  the  pipes 
over  the  mountain.  The  result  has  at  any  rate  disproved  the 
charge  of  total  inefficiency  which  was  brought  against  the 
Deerfield  dam  project  by  its  many  opponents,  for  sufficient 
power  was  furnished  almost  constantly  for  the  working  at  the 
east  end,  though  the  plan  never  worked  at  the  the  opposite 
side  of  the  mountain. 

The  Results  Accomplished  in  1864. 

Work  went  on  steadily  through  the  Winter  of  1863-64;  and 
in  September  of  the  latter  year  the  following  report  was  writ- 
by  State  Engineer  Doane,  showing  the  progress  of  the  under- 
taking: At  the  west  end,  a new  portal  had  been  chared,  and 
the  machinery  was  in  readiness  to  begin  the  work  of  tunnel- 
ing. At  the  shaft  on  the  west,  where  nearly  60  feet  had  been 
pierced  by  Haupt  & Co.,  the  west  working  had  gone  forward 
45  feet,  and  the  east  working  128  feet.  The  east  end  shaft 
had  not  made  any  progress,  but  the  work  of  enlargement  had 
been  carried  on  with  some  success.  Work  on  the  central 
shaft  had  only  been  fairly  begun ; in  the  following  January, 
1865,  it  had  been  sunk  only  to  the^depth  of  74  feet.  Such  was 
the  record  up  to  the  Spring  of  1865.  In  March  of  that  year, 
the  work  of  cutting  down  the  breast  of  the  work  in  the  tunnel- 
ling from  the  east  was  brought  to  a conclusion,  and  hencefor- 
ward, progress  was  made  from  the  bottom,  instead  of  the  top 
of  the  tunnel.  The  work  had  made  a statisfactory  progress, 
the  gain  in  one  year  being  2394  feet.  At  the  central  shaft 
progress  had  been  made  to  the  depth  of  127  feet,  the  shaft 
being  lighted  by  naphtha  gas  in  October. 

The  Years  1866  and  1867. 

The  year  1866  chronicles  some  important  events  at  the 
tunnel.  In  June,  the  new  machine  drills  for  the  use  of  com- 


TO  UR  IS  rs*  II A NDBOOK. 


89 


pressed  iiir  at  the  eastern  end  were  introduced,  the  machinery 
of  the  water  works  having  been  in  readiness  the  previous 
January.  At  first  the  progress  made  was  less  than  what  had 
been  accomplished  by  hand-power;  but  certain  improvements 
were  soon  made,  which  resulted  in  the  success  of  the  experi- 
ment, so  far  as  the  east  end  was  concerned.  At  the  west 
shaft,  nitro-glycerine  was  introduced,  and  brought  into  use 
everywhere,  except  at  the  east  end.  The  total  amount  pierced 
was  : East  end,  3473 ; west  shaft,  eastward,  1042  ; central 
shaft,  377.  The  total  length  of  headings,  excepting  at  the 
west  end,  was  4813  feet,  of  which  13254  feet  is  to  be  credited 
to  the  work  of  the  13  months  ending  December  i,  1866. 
During  1867  further  improvements  were  made.  The  water 
had  increased  so  much  at  the  west  shaft,  east  heading,  that 
work  was  suspended  until  June,  when  a new  contract  was 
made  with  Mr.  Farren,  for  the  work  on  the  west  end  of  the 
tunnel,  requiring  brick  arching;  and  Messrs.  Dali,  Gowan  & 
Co.  contracted  to  undertake  the  work  at  the  east  end  and 
central  shaft,  during  the  months  of  August,  September  and 
October.  Under  these  gentlemen  the  work  was  carried  on 
throughout  the  year,  with  the  following  result : The  west 
heading,  from  the  west  shaft  was  carried  forward  313  feet, 
while  the  gain  at  the  eastward  heading  was  252  feet;  at  the 
east  end,  an  advance  had  been  made  in  13  months  of  1235  feet, 
and  the  central  shaft  had  been  sunk  to  a depth  of  206  feet 
further  than  a year  before.  Under  Mr.  Farren’s  contract,  the 
brick  tunnel  from  the  west  end  had  been  carried  forward  to  a 
length  of  4144  feet,  with  an  additional  heading  of  297  feet.  A 
summary  of  the  year’s  work,  therefore  indicates  a total  length 
of  tunnel  and  heading  of  73244  feet,  of  which  amount  25114 
feet  were  gained  by  the  labor  of  the  past  13  months. 

1868— A Legislative  Battle. 

But  the  battle  which  was  waged  on  the  subject  in  the  Gene- 
ral Court  of  1868  was  long  and  bitter.  The  enemies  of  the 


90 


TOURISTS^  HANbBOOI^. 


tunnel  project  spared  no  effort  to  induce  the  Legislature  to 
abandon  the  undertaking  on  which  had  been  spent  so  many 
millions  of  dollars.  On  the  15th  May,  the  Special  Committee 
on  the  Tunnel  reported  a bill  appropriating  $250,000  for  the 
completion  of  the  railroad,  $600,000  for  work  on  the  tunnel 
during  the  year,  together  with  $350,000  for  interest  on  debt; 
and,  moreover,  authorizing  the  Governor,  by  and  with  the 
advice  of  the  Council,  to  enter  into  a contract  for  the  com- 
pletion of  the  road  and  tunnel,  and  to  dispose  of  the  State’s 
interest  in  the  enterprise  on  such  terms  as  appeared  advisable. 
On  the  nth  of  June,  after  one  bill  had  been  passed  by  a small 
majority  and  found  to  be  illegal,  a second  supplementary  bill 
prevailed  in  both  houses  and  received  the  Governor’s  signa- 
ture. The  bill  embodied  the  features  of  the  first  section  of 
the  bill  submitted  by  the  Tunnel  Committee,  but  was  amended 
by  Mr.  Packard  so  as  to  authorize  the  making  of  a contract  to 
complete  the  entire  work,  provided  it  could  be  done  in  seven 
years,  at  an  expenditure  of  not  more  than  $5,000,000,  and  to 
preclude  any  expenditure  by  the  State  in  work  not  done  under 
contract  after  October  i.  Other  amendments  made  up  the 
bill  as  it  passed  finally  to  be  a law,  requiring  “ satisfactory 
guarantees”  from  the  contractors,  and  withholding  at  least 
$1,000,000  from  the  contract  price  until  the  enterprise  was 
completed.  The  record  of  work  accomplished  when  opera- 
tions were  entirely  discontinued,  in  October,  shows  that  in 
nine  months  the  east  end  heading  had  advanced  574  feet ; 
amount  pierced  at  the  west  end,  west  shaft  and  well  No.  4 
workings,  1504  feet,  and  in  all  2088.  There  remained  to  be 
completed,  15,693  feet  of  tunnel  and  457  feet  of  depth  in  the 
central  shaft. 


The  Shanley  Contract. 

When  the  proposals  for  the  contract  were  sent  into  the  Gov- 
ernor and  Council,  it  was  found  that  the  estimates  varied 
from  $4,027,780  to  $5,378,354.  Of  the  twelve  bids  which  were 
made,  only  four  were  within  the  limit  of  $5,000,000,  fixed  by 


To  UR  IS  TS'  HA  NDBOOlC. 


9^ 


the  Legislature  to  defray  the  expense  of  tunnelling,  and  to 
liquidate  outstanding  liabilities  which  amounted  to  about 
{l|»25o,ooo.  Messrs.  Francis  and  Walter  Shanley,  of  Canada, 
made  a tender  to  undertake  the  enterprise  at  $4,623,069. 
Although  this  was  next  to  the  highest  bid  made  by  the  four 
whose  proposals  fell  within  the  necessary  limit,  the  Legisla- 
ture had  not  required  that  the  contract  should  be  given  to  the 
lowest  bidder,  and  in  consideration  of  the  deposit  of  public 
securities  to  the  amount  of  $500,000  as  a satisfactory  guaran- 
tee, as  well  as  in  view  of  the  long  experience  and  excellent 
reputation  of  the  firm.  Governor  Bullock  gave  the  contract  to 
the  Messrs.  Shanly,  after  long  consultation  with  the  Council. 
The  contract  was  signed  on  the  19th  of  December,  1868,  but 
work  was  not  actually  begun  until  the  29th  of  March,  in  the 
year  following,  when  operations  were  resumed  at  the  heading 
at  the  east  end.  The  record  of  work  done  up  to  the  close  of 
the  year  showed  that  the  total  length  of  the  east  end  heading 
was  6522  feet,  and  of  the  west  end,  4505;  in  all,  11,027  feet 
out  of  25,031.  In  1870,  steady  progress  was  made,  the  cen- 
tral shaft  completed  to  a depth  of  1028  feet,  two  feet  less  than 
required. by  contract,  and  work  commenced  on  a heading  in 
each  direction.  In  August,  sixteen  feet  had  been  built  in 
either  direction,  exclusive,  of  course,  of  the  width  of  the 
shaft.  The  record  for  the  year  is  to  the  effect  that  1514  feet 
had  been  pierced  at  the  east  end,  1203  the  west  end, 

and  60  and  80  feet  east  and  west  of  the  central  shaft ; thus, 
during  the  year,  2864  feet  of  tunnelling  had  been  pierced, 
leaving  only  11,140  feet  to  be  accomplished.  In  1871,  a large 
flow  of  water  prevented  progress  to  any  great  extent  in  the 
central  shaft,  and  it  was  generally  thought  that  the  contrac- 
tors would  be  unable  to  complete  the  tunnel  in  the  given  time. 
The  aggregate  of  progress  showed  a gain  of  1743  feet  at  the 
east  end,  1380  feet  at  the  west  end,  and  430  feet  east  and  west 
of  the  central  shaft;  in  all,  17,446  feet  accomplished,  and 
divided  as  follows:  east  end,  9779  feet;  central  shaft,  east, 
337  feet;  central  shaft,  west,  240  feet;  west  end,  7090.  The 


92 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


contractors  worked  so  faithfully  during  the  year  1872  that  the 
average  required  by  contract  was  much  exceeded,  excellent 
progress  being  made  in  every  direction  except  at  the  central 
shaft,  west  heading,  where  an  advance  was  made  of  only  119 
feet.  On  December  12th,  a junction  was  made  between  the 
east  end  and  central  shaft  workings.  It  will  be,  perhaps, 
remembered,  that  when  the  lines  met,  a varation  of  but  five- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  could  be  discerned. 

The  Mountain  Pierced. 

In  1873,  work  was  pushed  so  vigorously  that  there  was 
remaining  to  be  done,  November  i,  1873,  242  feet.  The  rec- 
ord thereafter  stands  : 


November  8,  advanced  from  central  shaft,  west,  31 
November  8,  advanced  from  west  end  east,  25 

— 56 

November  15,  advanced  from  central  shaft  west,  42 
November  15,  advanced  from  west  end  east,  33 

— 75 

November  22,  advanced  from  central  shaft  west,  41 
November  22,  advanced  from  west  end  east,  29 

— 70 

Total,  201 

Remaining  to  be  pierced,  November  23,  41 


Leaving,  on  November  23,  forty-one  feet  to  be  completed, 
which  work  was  completed  on  that  day  in  .the  presence  of  a 
large  number  of  State  officials,  railroad  men  and  journalists, 
who  passed  through  the  opening  in  the  wall  of  rock,  and  made 
the  tour  of  the  Hoosac  Mountain,  underground.  From  that 
time  only  the  work  of  blasting  out  the  tunnel  to  its  full  size, 
laying  the  iron  and  completing  the  road  at  either  end,  re- 
mained ; and  though  this  was  in  itself  a considerable  task, 
and  involved  a much  greater  outlay  of  time  and  money  than 
any  of  the  ardent  friends  of  the  enterprise  foresaw,  it  has  all 
been  successfully  accomplished,  and  the  passage  of  the  tunnel 
forms  the  most  notable  feature  of  one  of  the  principal  routes 
from  Boston  to  Saratoga  and  the  West. 


TO  UR  IS  TS'  HA  NO  BOOK. 


93 


Iforth  Adams  and  its  Surroundinj^s. 

Emerging  from  the  gloom  of  the  tunnel,  a short  run  over  a 
descending  grade  and  around  a rather  sharp  curve,  brings  us 
to  the  pretty  village  of  North  Adams,  situated  at  the  forks  of 
the  Iloosac  River,  in  a perfect  amphitheatre  of  hills,  from 
which  views  both  grand  and  charming  are  gained.  Aside 
from  its  importance  as  a railway  junction, — the  Hoosac  Tun- 
nel line  and  a branch  of  the  Boston  and  Albany  here  meeting — 
North  Adams  has  no  inconsiderable  prosperity  as  a manufac- 
turing village.  Here  are  20  cotton  and  woolen  mills,  power 
for  which  is  furnished  by  the  two  branches  of  the  Hoosac, 
which  unite  near  the  centre  of  the  village,  and  several  large 
shoe-factories.  In  one  of  these  latter  the  first  experiment  in 
the  Eastern  States  with  ‘‘Chinese  cheap  labor”  was  tried  by 
Mr.  Sampson  in  1870,  some  75  Mongolians  being  imported 
from  San  Francisco.  The  population  of  North  Adams  is 
about  13,000  of  which  some  5000  souls  are  employed  in  the 
various  factories.  Here  are  several  neat  churches,  a fine  high 
school-house,  many  elegant  residences  and  two  hotels,  the 
Ballou  House  and  the  Berkshire  Hotel.  There  are  many 
points  of  natural  interest  in  and  about  North  Adams.  Ex- 
cursions are  plenty  and  easily  taken,  for  the  ascent  of  Mount 
Greylock,  for  visits  to  the  natural  Bridge — one  mile  east  of 
the  village, — where  Hudson’s  brook  has  worn  a passage  30 
rods  long  and  15  feet  wide  through  the  solid  marble,  which 
stands  an  arch  30  to  60  feet  high  above  — and  where  Haw- 
thorne was  fond  of  straying  and  musing  during  a summer 
spent  at  North  Adams  in  1838 ; to  the  cascade  on  Notch  Brook- 
one  and  a half  miles  from  the  village,  where  the  water  leaps 
down  30  feet;  and  best  of  all,  the  drive  over  the  Hoosac 
Mountain.  The  ride  is  eight  miles  in  length.  The  west 
peak  is  scaled  by  a succession  of  zigzags  constantly  rising, 
and  from  its  summit  is  gained  a splendid  view  of  the  neigh- 
boring villages,  the  Eloosac  Valley,  Greylock  and  the  Ver- 
mont hills.  Then  a swift  descent  brings  us  to  the  “saddleback” 


94 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


or  plateau  between  the  summits,  where  we  pass  the  central 
shaft  of  the  tunnel.  Then  the  eastern  summit  is  climbed,  and 
the  view  presented  is  grand  and  majestic,  justifying  fully 
Hawthorne’s  eloquent  description  : 

A noble  view  is  obtained  from  this  point,  above  the  roman- 
tic gorge  of  the  Deerfield  river  to  Wachusett  Mountain,  and 
beyond  it  the  blue  and  indistinctive  scene  extended  to  the 
east  and  north  for  at  least  sixty  miles.  Beyond  the  hills  it 
looked  almost  as  if  the  blue  ocean  might  be  seen.  Monad- 
nock  was  visible  like  a sapphire  cloud  against  the  sky.  The 
scenery  on  the  east  side  of  the  Green  Mountains  is  incompar- 
ably more  striking  than  on  the  west,  where  the  long  swells 
and  ridges  have  a flatness  of  effect.  But  on  the  eastern  part, 
peaks  one  to  two  thousand  feet  high  rush  up  on  either  bank 
of  the  river  in  ranges,  thrusting  out  their  shoulders  side  by 
side.  Sometimes  the  precipice  rises  with  abruptness  from  the 
immediate  side  of  the  river;  sometime,  there  is  a valley  on 
either  side;  cultivated  long,  and  with  all  the  smoothness  and 
antique  rurality  of  a farm  near  cities,  this  gentle  picture  is 
strongly  set  off  by  the  wild  mountain  frame  around  it.  I 
have  never  driven  through  such  romantic  scenery,  where  there 
was  such  variety  and  boldness  of  mountain  shapes  as  this ; 
and  though  it  was  a sunny  day,  the  mountains  diversified  the 
view  with  sunshine  and  shadow,  and  glory  and  gloom. 

Proceeding  westerly  by  Troy  and  Boston  Railroad  from 
North  Adams,  a ride  of  about  one  mile  brings  us  to  the  cross- 
ing of  the  highway  to  Williamstown  and  the  Hoosac  river. 
Here  a small  elm  can  be  seen  in  a meadow,  only  a few  rods 
from  the  track,  marking  the  site  of  old  Fort  Massachusetts,  one 
of  the  cordon  of  works  built  by  the  colonists  in  1744  to  guard 
the  frontier.  From  this  point,  railroad,  river  and  highway 
run  amicably  side  by  side  through  a narrow  defile  to  Wil- 
liamstown, a lovely  hamlet  nestled  in  the  lap  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  noted  as  the  site  of  Williams  College,  as  wxll  as 
for  its  beautiful  mountain  and  valley  scenery.  South  of  the 
village  is  Mount  Hopkins,  2,800  feet  high,  which  is  often 
ascended  for  the  sake  of  the  view  from  its  summit.  The  Hop- 
per, also  south  from  the  colleges,  is  a vast  gulf  bounded  by 
Greylock  on  the  east,  Prospect  Mountain  on  the  north  and 


TO  UR  IS  TS'  HA  NDBOOK, 


95 


Bald  Mountain  on  the  south,  and  abounding  in  fine  cascades 
and  noble  scenery.  Snow  Glen,  where  snow  always  re- 
mains, and  Flora’s  Glen,  where  in  1812,  William  Cullen  Bry- 
ant, then  18  years  old,  and  a student  at  Williams  College, 
wrote  his  “ Thanatopsis,”  are  places  of  interest  in  the  vicini- 
ty. Two  miles  north  of  Williamstown  is  the  famous  Sand 
Spring,  beneficial  in  cutaneous  diseases,  where  is  located 
Greylock  flail,  a large  new  hotel. 

Into  I^'ew  York  State. 

From  Williamstown,  which  is  the  extreme  northwestern 
town  of  Massachusetts,  our  course  is  northwest,  skirting  the 
rocky  town  of  Pownal,  the  southwest  corner  of  Vermont,  to 
Petersburg,  the  first  town  in  New  York  State.  Thence  passing 
Hoosick  Junction,  where  we  cross  the  Harlem  Extension  rail- 
road, we  are  soon  whirled  into  the  Union  depot  at  Troy,  N.  Y. 
Troy  is  the  capitol  of  Rensselaer  county,  is  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion on  the  Hudson,  has  about  50,000  inhabitants,  is  noted 
for  its  iron  toundries,  stove  manufactories,  bell  foundries, 
prosperity,  Willard  Female  Seminary,  fine  residences,  paper 
collar  works,  breweries,  laundries,  and  several  other  things, 
too  numerous  to  mention.  There  are  several  handsome 
streets,  bordered  by  elegant  residences,  and  many  fine  church- 
es, but  the  chief  glory  of  Troy  is  its  thrift,  springing  from  its 
many  and  varied  industries,  its  commerce  on  the  Hudson,  its 
wide-spread  tributary  country,  and  its  excellent  educational 
advantages.  On  Mount  Ida,  a tall  hill  overlooking  the  city 
on  the  east,  is  St.  Joseph’s  Theological  Seminary,  a Roman 
Catholic  institution  for  the  education  of  priests;  the  Rens- 
selaer Polytechnic  Institute,  founded  in  1824  by  Patroon  Van 
Rensselaer,  has  a world-wide  fame,  while  the  Female  Semi- 
nary, founded  in  1821  by  Mrs.  Emma  Willard,  has  been  pre- 
eminent for  many  years,  and  numbers  over  7000  alumnae. 
West  Troy,  just  across  the  Hudson  river,  which  is  spanned  by 
a steam  ferry,  is  a busy  suburb,  with  its  manufactories,  over 
40  in  number,  and  its  Watervliet  Arsenal,  one  of  the  largest 


96 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


of  Uncle  Sam’s  establishments.  From  Troj,  morning  and 
evening  lines  of  boats  run  to  New  York  city,  stopping  at  Al- 
bany and  other  river  ports ; trains  leave  the  Union  depot  for 
Albany,  New  York  and  the  West  by  New  York  Central  and 
Hudson  River  Railroad ; for  Albany,  Saratoga  and  Rutland 
by  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad,  and  for  Boston  and 
New  England  generally  by  the  route  over  which  we  have 
come.  Leaving  the  Union  depot  by  the  Rensselaer  and  Sara- 
toga train,  a ride  of  six  miles  brings  us  to  Albany  Junction, 
where  a branch  from  Albany,  12  miles  distant,  joins  us,  and 
we  continue  our  course  to  Saratoga  by  rail  as  already  de- 
scribed. 

A Bail  Car  Flirtation. 

The  pleasures  of  a rail  car  ride  to  Saratoga  are  sometimes 
heightened,  and  its  minor  discomforts  alleviated  by  an  inno- 
cent flirtation,  if  opportunity  serves,  as  graphically  described 
in  verse  by  Mr.  J.  Cheever  Goodwin,  of  Boston : 

Laughing  eyes  and  pouting  lips, 

Dainty  waist  and  taper. 

Sat  she  just  across  from  me, 

Reading  morning  paper. 

Golden  hair,  befrizzled,  in 
The  style  that’s  most  in  vogue,  her 

Ticket  in  her  hand  explained 
She  went  to  Saratoga. 

Much  I pondered  as  I sat. 

Scanning  her  with  caution. 

Whether  the  inviting  chance 
I should  welcome  or  shun. 

She  was  all  alone,  you  see ; 

Should  I greet  her  boldly? 

Would  she  welcome  my  approach 
Or  receive  me  coldly? 


TOUR r STS'  HANDBOOK. 


97 


“Nothing  venture,  nothing  have,” 
Think  I,  as  gets  lost  her 

Ticket  on  the  floor, — and  straight 
Find  it  and  accost  her. 

“Travelling  alone?”  I asked, 

“Yes,”  she  answered  sweetly; 

“But  a friend  will  meet  me,  though,” 
Added  she  discreetly. 

Thence  progressed  I rapidly. 

Shared  her  tempting  luncheon. 

She,  though  circumspect,  did  not 
Any  gentle  fun  shun. 

Much  I wished,  as  on  we  sped. 
Toward  our  destination. 

That  the  train  would  practice  some 
Slight  procrastination. 

All  in  vain,  too  soon,  alas ! 

Reached  we  Saratoga ; 

There  was  waiting  for  her, — well. 

Set  him  down  an  ogre. 

All  this  happened  yesterday ; 

Would  you  know  the  sequel? 

Listen  to  a moan,  so  sad. 

Never  was  its  equal. 

I,  to-day,  at  each  hotel. 

Diligently  sought  her. 

Hoping  she  might  prove  to  be 
Some  one’s  only  daughter. 

And  I found  her,  well-a-day ! 

Only  child  she  may  be ; 

Certain  ’tis  she’s  married,  and 
Rejoices  in  a baby. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
Saratoga  and  Its  Attractions. 


HE  village  so  famous  in  the 
annals  of  fashion  is  situated 
in  a valley  running  nearly 
northeast  and  southwest, 
beneath  the  surface  of  which 
is  nature’s  most  potent  labo- 
ratory, whose  preparations 
come  to  the  surface  in  scores 
of  places  within  a few  miles. 
The  Ballston  Spa,  so  famous 
a half  century  ago,  are  in 
the  same  valley  at  its  south- 
ern end.  Yet  though  the 
extent  of  territory  in  which 
these  healing  mineral  springs 
have  been  found  to  exist  is 
quite  limited,  yet  within  its 
extent  and  out  of  its  scores  of  springs,  no  two  alike  are  in 
chemical  analysis  or  in  therapeutic  effects.  And  this  is  the 
greatest  wonder  of  all,  that  such  a wide  diversity  of  compo- 
sition should  exist  in  springs  close  together,  — in  some  cases 
within  the  same  enclosure.  Of  all  the  medicinal  waters  of 
Europe,  the  Spa  of  Belgium,  the  Seidlitz  of  Bohemia,  the 
Selzer,  Baden  Baden  and  Aix  of  Germany,  and  the  Chelten- 


i 


228 

jia^^^ircii 


ISWiAl^ 


/ 


CROul 


WlAJPefT  ®T(  ttAPE 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


99 


ham,  Bath  and  Ilarrowgate  of  England,  all  are  inferior  in 
variety  and  power  to  the  inexhaustible  and  health-giving 
springs  of  Saratoga.  The  site  of  the  village  is  in  the  hear 
of  the  valley,  itself  some  300  feet  above  the  sea,  at  the  foot  of 
the  Kayaderosseras  Mountains,  which  form  the  water-shed 
between  Lake  Champlain  and  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  health- 
fulness of  the  location  and  its  convenience  to  railroad  facili- 
ties have  made  Saratoga  a favorite  Summer  residence  with 
wealthy  people,  who  can  aiford  to  keep  their  own  cottages  or 
villas  here,  and  who  are  yearly  beautifying  the  place  by  the 
fine  buildings  they  are  erecting,  and  the  handsome  grounds 
they  are  laying  out.  The  principal  street  is  Broadway,  which 
nearly  follows  the  course  of  the  valley,  and  on  which  the 
principal  hotels  front.  Broadway  is  a fine,  straight,  wide 
avenue,  and  when  crowded  of  an  afternoon,  with  the  elegant 
equipages  of  Saratoga’s  Summer  residents,  slowly  moving 
up  and  down,  as  if  on  dress  parade  (which  the  ladies  ai'e)., 
the  sight  is  beautiful  and  full  of  life.  Many  of  the  most  noted 
springs  are  on  or  near  Broadway,  and  here  the  chief  business 
of  the  place  is  transacted.  The  first  knowledge  of  the  heal- 
ing qualities  of  the  waters  hereabouts  was  gained  by  the  Indi- 
ans, who  in  i7';7  brought  to  the  valley  on  a litter  Sir  William 
Johnson,  Bart.,  a friend  and  patron  of  the  amiable  red  men, 
and  in  a few  weeks  he  was  restored  to  health.  The  spring  at 
which  this  cure  was  effected  was  the  High  Rock,  which  is  still 
famous,  and  is  distinguished  from  all  other  fountains  by  the 
mound  of  calcareous  tufa,  seven  feet  in  diameter  in  the  base 
and  half  that  distance  in  height,  which  the  waters  have 
deposited  in  the  course  of  centuries.  This  mound  is  in  the 
form  of  a low  cone,  and  from  a hole  some  six  or  eight  inches 
in  diameter,  at  its  centre,  the  clear  and  pleasant  water  bub- 
bles np.  Naturally  the  superstitious  savages  harbored  the 
most  profound  reverence  for  this  healing  spring,  and  the  early 
settlers  shared  in  their  appreciation.  Probably  the-  next  spring 
discovered  was  the  Congress,  which  was  first  observed  by  a 
party  of  hunters,  one  of  whom  was  ex-Congressman  Gilman, 


lOO 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


(in  honor  of  whom  it  was  named  Congress  Spring),  in  1792, 
as  they  were  strolling  along  the  banks  of  the  little  creek,  into 
which  its  waters  trickled.  Subsequently,  being  tubed,  its  flow 
was  greatly  increased,  and  it  now  is  the  most  noted  and  one 
of  the  most  prolific  (if  the  w’ord  be  applicable),  of  the  healing 
waters.  From  time  to  time,  within  the  present  century,  other 
springs  have  been  discovered  or  developed  by  boring,  until 
now,  the  valley  for  several  miles  is  honeycombed  with  the 
tubes  of  mineral  springs,  bearing  all  sorts  of  names  and  pos- 
sessing all  sorts  of  properties.  To  enumerate  them  all  in 
proper  order,  we  must  suppose  ourselves  setting  out  to  drive 
through  the  village,  and  visit  each  in  turn,  and  as  the  most 
natural  course  will  begin  at  the  very  centre  of  the  village, 
where,  within  a few  rods  of  the  three  largest  hotels,  is  the 
beautiful  and  world-famous 

Congress  Park. 

This  public  pleasure  ground,  which  is  always  the  first 
place  of  interest  visited  by  the  newly-arrived,  is  a pretty  en- 
closure of  a few  acres,  of  nearly  triangular  form,  bordered  by 
Broadway,  Union  Avenue  and  South  Circular  street,  natural- 
ly diversified  in  contour,  and  covered  with  a handsome  growth 
of  trees.  The  proprietors,  Congress  and  Empire  Spring 
Company,”  have  laid  out  graveled  walks,  undulating  lawns 
and  secluded  copses,  and  have  placed  statuary  at  various 
points,  besides  stocking  the  park  with  deer,  which  are  very 
tame  and  roam  freely,  and  building  handsome  structures  over 
the  two  springs.  Congress  and  Columbian,  which  stand  jiear 
the  corner  of  Broadway  and  Union  Avenue.  The  Doric  col- 
onade  in  the  left  of  the  illustration  covers  the  Congress,  and 
the  Grecian  dome  to  the  right  surmounts  the  Columbian. 
The  park  is  the  resort  of  thousands  of  people,  residents  and 
visitors,  daily,  and  its  shaded  walks  are  a favorite  stroll. 
Could  the  arching  trees  but  speak,  they  could  tell  many  a ro- 
mantic tale  of  sweet  flirtations  and  delightful  love-making 
which  they  have  witnessed.  Presumably,  most  people  come 


CONGRESS  SPRING  AND  "PARK,  AND  COLUMBIAN  SPRING,  1873. 


102 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


hither  to  drink  the  waters  — some  take  half  a dozen  glasses  at 
a dose, — but  the  winding  paths,  the  sylvan  nooks  and  the 
companionship  of  the  dears  are  so  productive  of  tender  emo- 
tions, that  many  who  come  to  drink  remain  to  “ spoon.” 

The  Congress  Spiing. 

The  properties  of  the  Congress  water,  which  as  well  as  the 
most  celebrated,  is  among  the  most  efficient  of  the  Saratoga 
waters,  and  which,  in  bottles,  can  be  found  almost  the  world 
over,  are  pleasantly,  but  effectively  cathartic.  The  taste  is 
agreeable  to  most  people,  and  the  cool,  sparkling  draught  is 
certainly  one  of  the  “ easiest  to  take”  of  all  medicines.  The 
carbonic  acid  which  causes  its  effervescence  also  imparts  a 
vivacity  to  the  water,  which  resembles  that  of  soda  water.  In 
small  quantities  after  meals,  the  Congress  water  gives  tone* to 
the  stomach  and  clearness  to  the  head,  especially  agreeable  to 
those  whose  business  tends  to  mental  exhaustion  and  physical 
torpidity.  The  water  is  useful  as  a preventive  of  feverish 
and  biliary  disorders,  headaches  and  the  like,  and  is  freely 
drank  by  the  residents.  To  secure  the  fullest  effect  the  water 
should  be  drank  before  breakfast,  in  quantities  easily  regula- 
ted by  experience,  its  effect  being  aperient  without  subsequent 
reaction  or  languor,  and  a gradual  diminution  of  the  quantity 
leaves  the  bowels  regular,  and  the  general  health  and  spirits 
greatly  improved.  As  an  alterative  or  tonic,  the  water  should 
be  taken  sparingly  through  the  day  with  brief  intervals,  and 
the  effect  is  suprisingly  beneficial.  In  cases  of  chronic  dys- 
pepsia, diarrhea,  jaundice  and  diseases  of  the  kidneys,  the 
water  properly  used  will  remove  the  evil  accumulations  from 
the  bowels  and  stimulate  the  organs  to  the  normal  discharge 
of  their  functions.  As  a remedy  for  the  disorders  of  seden- 
tary life,  constipation,  with  all  its  resultant  ills,  and  the  dis- 
orders occasioned  by  “high  living,”  the  water  has  a most 
salutary  effect.  The  operation  of  the  Congress  water,  though 
certain  and  thorough,  is  free  from  griping  pains,  and  its  after 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


103 


effects  pleasantly  dillerent  from  those  of  drastic  purgatives. 
In  submitting  a new  analysis  of  this  water,  which  is  given 
elsewhere,  Professor  C.  F.  Chandler,  Ph.  D.,  of  Columbia 
College,  says  : “ A comparison  of  this  with  the  analysis 

made  by  Dr.  John  H.  Steel  in  1832,  proves  that  Congress 
water  still  retains  its  original  strength,  and  all  the  virtues 
which  established  its  well-merited  reputation.”  It  should  be 
remembered  that  the  water  of  this  spring  is  sold  in  bottles 
o?ily.  What  purports  to  be  Congress  water,  for  sale  on 
draught  in  various  places  throughout  the  country,  is  not  gen- 
uine. The  artificial  preparations  thus  imposed  upon  the 
public  may  have  a certain  resemblance  in  taste  and  appear- 
ance, but  are  frequently  worse  than  worthless  for  medicinal 
purposes. 


The  Columbian  Spring. 


This  spring,  which  is  within  a biscuit-toss  of  the  Congress 
and  owned  by  the  same  company,  was  opened  in  1806  by 
Gideon  Putnam.  The  water  issues  from  the  natural  rock, 
about  seven  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  is  pro- 
tected by  heavy  wooden  tubing.  It  is  the  most  popular  spring 
among  the  residents  of  Saratoga.  The  escaping  bubbles  of 
free  carbonic  acid  gas  give  to  the  fountain  a boiling  motion. 
Large  quantities  of  the  gas  can  easily  be  collected  at  the 
mouth  of  the  spring  at  any  time.  It  is  a fine  chalybeate  or 
iron  water,  possessing  strong  tonic  properties.  It  also  has  a 
diuretic  action,  and  is  extensively  used  for  that  purpose.  The 
water  is  recommended  to  be  drank  in  small  quantites  during 
the  day,  generally  preceded  by  the  use  of  the  cathartic  waters 
taken  before  breakfast.  It  is  put  up  in  half-pint  bottles  by  the 
company,  and  is  especially  valuable  in  liver  complaints,  dys- 
pepsia, erysipelas,  cutaneous  diseases,  chlorosis  and  many 
female  complaints. 


104  TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 

The  Empire  Spring. 

The  same  company  owns  the  Empire  Spring,  which  is 
situated  on  Spring  avenue,  at  the  head  of  Circular  street,  and 


EMPIRE  SPRING  AND  BOTTLING  HOUSE.  SARATOGA. 


TOl/RISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


hear  the  base  of  a high  limestone  bluff,  in  the  northerly  part 
of  the  village,  a few  rods  above  the  Star  Spring,  and  about 
three-fourths  of  a mile  from  the  Congress.  Mineral  water 
was  known  to  trickle  down  the  bank  at  this  point  ever  since 
the  land  was  cleared  of  its  primitive  shrubs.  It  was  not  till 
the  year  1846  that  the  fountain  was  tubed.  Tne  proprietors 
have  surrounded  it  with  shade  trees,  built  a pavilion  over 
it  and  erected  a large  bottling  house  close  at  hand.  The  water 
much  resembles  that  of  the  Congress  Spring,  but  is  more 
active,  owing  to  a greater  amount  of  magnesia.  The  Empire 
is  highly  esteemed  for  the  treatment  of  obscure  and  chronic 
diseases,  requiring  alterative  and  diuretic  remedies.  It  is  also 
valuable  as  a preventive  of  intermittent,  bilious  and  gastric 
fevers,  dysentery  and  liver  complaints,  rheumatism,  gout  and 
cutaneous  disorders,  etc.  The  same  rules  apply  to  its  use  as 
have  been  given  for  the  Congress  water.  Some  systems  take 
more  kindly  to  the  one,  and  some  to  the  other  water,  but  the 
general  effect  is  much  the  same.  Another  celebrated  water  is 
that  of 

The  Star  Spring, 


♦ 


io6 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK. 


which  is  located  near  the  Empire,  on  Spring  avenue;  Star 
Spring  Company,  proprietors,  J.  W.  Dane,  President.  Under 
the  name  of  President  Spring,  and  afterward  Iodine  Spring, 
the  fountain  now  called  the  Star  has  been  known  for  nearly  a 
century.  It  was  first  tubed  in  1835.  1865  the  Star  Spring 

Company  was  formed,  and  in  the  following  year  the  spring 
was  retubed  under  their  direction.  In  1870  they  erected  the 
finest  bottling-house  in  Saratoga.  Great  care  is  taken  to  pre- 
serve the  spring  in  a pure  condition  and  perfect  repair.  The 
water  has  become  immensely  popular  in  New  England,  and 
throughout  the  United  States  and  Canada.  The  proprietors  of 
this  spring,  feeling  the  need  of  some  method  of  transporting 
the  water  in  bulk,  to  avoid  the  heavy  cost  of  bottling,  and  the 
heavy  freight  upon  the  same,  commenced  in  1866  to  send  the 
water  in  barrels  made  of  rock  maple.  This  method  proved  a 
failure,  as  it  was  impossible  to  confine  the  gases  in  wood,  and 
impossible  to  prepare  the  wood  in  a manner  not  to  impart  to 
the  water  its  peculiar  taste.  They  then  prepared  the  tin-lined 
barrels  (patent  dated  November,  1867)  which  proved  a suc- 
cess. These  barrels  are  used  to  convey  the  water  to  all  parts 
of  the  country.  It  is  then  drawn  into  fountains,  and  charged 
lightly  with  gas  to  restore  it  to  its  original  condition,  and  is 
dispensed  by  the  glass,  and  is  as  palatable  and  effective  as 
at  the  natural  fountain.  This  method  has  become  very  popu- 
lar where  known.  For  commercial  use,  the  water  is  sold  in 
cases  of  quarts  and  pints ; and  besides,  owing  to  the  large 
amount  of  gas  which  is  finely  incorporated  with  the  water,  the 
company  are  enabled  to  supply  families  with  it  in  kegs  of 
15  gallons,  in  which  the  water  keeps  as  well  as  in  bottles, 
and  at  one-fourth  to  one-sixth  the  cost.  This  method  seems 
to  give  entire  satisfaction,  and  is  fast  coming  into  general 
use.  The  price  to  druggists,  in  bulk,  is  20  cents  per  gallon ; 
to  families,  four  dollars  per  half  barrel ; to  the  trade,  in  cases, 
at  21  dollars  per  gross  for  pints,  and  30  dollars  per  gross  for 
quarts.  The  large  and  pleasant  office  in  the  bottling-house  is 
adorned  with  flowers,  shrubs  and  rare  exotics  of  great  beauty. 


TO  UR  IS  TS^  HA  NDBOOK.  1 07 

Visitors  will  find  here  ample  accommodations  for  rest  and  re- 
creation,'[as  the  ollicc  is  open  to  all. 

The  Star  water  is  mildly  cathartic;  has  a pleasant,  slightly 
acid  taste,  gentle  and  healthy  in  its  action,  and  yet  powerful 
in  its  elYects.  It  is  far  more  desirable  for  general  use  as  a ca- 
thartic, than  the  preparations  of  the  apothecary.  The  Rev.  Dr. 
Cuyler,  in  one  of  his  peculiarly  charming  letters,  gives  thw 
Star  water  preference  over  all  others  as  an  active  and  efficient 
cathartic.  While  the  immediate  effects  of  the  Star  Spring  are 
cathartic,  its  remote  effects  are  alterative ; and  these,  after  ail, 
should  be  considered  the  most  important,  as  the  water  thus 
reaches  and  changes  the  morbid  condition  of  the  whole  sys- 
tem. In  this  part  of  the  village,  and  near  the  Star,  is  the 
famous  High  Rock  Spring  above  mentioned. 

In  the  same  vicinity  and  under  the  same  proprietorship,  is 
the  Saratoga  “A”  Spring.  In  1865,  Messrs.  Western  & Co. 
purchased  the  property,  and  sunk  a shaft  12  feet  square,  to 
the  depth  of  16  feet.  The  surface  above  the  rock  consists  of 
bluish  mark  similar  to  that  found  all  along  this  mineral  val- 
ley. A tube,  in  the  usual  form,  was  placed  over  the  spring 
and  clay  was  used  as  packing  around  it.  In  the  spring  of 
the  next  year,  the  fountain  was  more  perfectly  secured  by  a 
new  tubing;  and  the  water  was  bottled,  and  shipped  all  over 
the  country.  Near  by  is  the  Red  Spring,  long  known  and 
valuable  in  cutaneous  diseases,  scrofula,  dyspepsia,  and  the 
Seltzer  Springs,  which  produces  a pleasant  beverage,  much 
like  the  imported  seltzer  water,  and  used  extensively  for  mix- 
ing with  still  wines,  etc.  Returning  towards  the  centre  of 
the  village,  we  come  to 

The  Pavilion  Spring. 

This  has  for  more  than  thirty  years  been  favorably  known. 
It  is  central  in  position,  and,  with  the  neat  park  around  it,  is 
a pleasant  place  of  resort.  Church  street  bounds  the  park  on 
the  north.  Spring  avenue  extends  northward,  and  the  elegant 
structure  which  surmounts  the  fountain  is  but  a few  steps 


io8 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


from  the  street  on  either  side.  The  United  States  Spring  is 
under  the  same  colonnade,  and  the  water  is  pleasantly  cathar- 
tic. Passing  the  Pavilion  and  turning  down  Putnam  street, 
we  come  to  the  spring  of  the  same  name,  which  is  chiefly 
used  for  bathing  purposes,  the  water  being  a strong  chaly- 
beate, or  iron  tonic.  The  Hathorn  Spring  comes  next,  on 
Spring  street,  in  rear  of  the  Congress  Hall.  It  was  tubed  in 
1869,  and  is  the  most  active  cathartic  to  be  found  at  Saratoga. 
The  Hon.  H.  H.  Hathorn  is  proprietor,  and  the  water  is  bot- 
tled, as  well  as  extensively  drank  on  the  spot.  The  Hamilton 
Spring,  on  the  opposite  side  of  Spring  street,  is  principally 
diuretic  in  action.  Passing  Congress  Park,  we  come  on  the 
other  side  of  Broadway,  to  the  beautifully  shaded  grounds  of 


the  Clarendon  Hotel,  in  which,  under  a pavilion,  is  the  Wash- 
ington Spring,  often  called  Champagne  Spring,  from  its  pecu- 
liar effervescence.  [It  is[  tonip  and  diuretic  in  its[[[action,  and 


TOltRISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


109 

strongly  impregnated  with  iron.  It  was  tubed  in  1806.  The 
Leland  Spring  is  in  the  same  grounds.  Having  thus  briefly 
noted  the  Springs  near  the  centre  of  the  village,  we  will  next 
take  a trip  to  some  of  the  outlying  fountains.  Of  these,  the 
most  celebrated  is  the  Excelsior  Spring,  about  a mile  east  of 
Broadway,  and  a little  north  of  the  Empire  Spring,  in  a most 
romantic  and  beautiful  dell,  formerly  known  as  “The  Valley 
of  the  Ten  Springs,”  but  which  has  been  christened,  “Excel- 
sior Park.”  In  the  same  vicinity  are  the  Union  (formerly  the 
Jackson),  a mild  cathartic,  the  Minnehaha,  the  White  Sul- 
phur (used  for  bathing),  and  the  Eureka  Springs. 

The  Geyser  Spring. 

This,  with  the  neighboring  Triton  and  Champion  springs, 
are  the  spouting  springs  of  Saratoga,  and  are  about  a mile 
and  a half  south  of  the  village  on  the  Ballstoii  road.  All  are 
artiflcial,  having  been  successively  bored  in  1870,  1872  and 
1871  respectively.  The  Geyser  Spiing  is  in  a building  which 
for  some  years  was  used  as  a bolt  factory,  and  the  proprietors 
of  which  sunk  a shaft  in  hopes  of  finding  water.  The  bor- 
ing is  140  feet  deep,  5^  inches  in  diameter;  sixty  feet  of  the 
distance  bored  was  through  limestone.  A tube  was  fitted  to 
the  boring  and  connected  with  a pipe  so  that  a constant 
stream  is  playing  to  the  height  of  fifteen  or  twenty  teet. 
This  perpetual  fountain  is  much  visited  as  a curiosity.  The 
water  is  singu  arly  cold,  being  only  14^  Fahrenheit  above  the 
freezing  point.  In  mineral  ingredient'^  this  spring  is  the  rich- 
est of  the  Saratoga  waters  that  have  yet  been  analyzed.  As 
a medicinal  agency  its  efiects  are  marveioiis.  Testimonials 
from  all  quarters  are  received  bearing  witness  to  its  wonder- 
ful cures  of  diseases,  especially  in  cutaneous  diseases  or  any 
of  the  various  phases  of  scrofula.  It  is  used  with  telling 
effect  in  kidney  disease,  liver  complaint,  dyspepsia,  bilious- 
ness, rheumatism,  acidity  of  stomach,  constipation  and 
piles.  It  is  a delightful  beverage,  and  when  taken  as  a 


Analysis  of  the  Waters. 


IIO 


TOURISTS^  handbook:. 


RecL 

Spring. 

o N foo  o V) 

. ' , ‘ <J  (J  (J  . . * ’ O O . CJ  o u o . u 

fO'Ortrtrt  mNMrtrtcjrtrjrtrtfOrt 

00  u 

HHH  -HH  HHHh  H 

0 

m 

N 

Cham- 

pion 

Spring.' 

OsO  t^'^C<ONfOrN.NO  ooo 

ro  -<*•  ro  • 't  N 11  i>.oo  oo  m M in  o .t 

N 7*-  'o  N Q "p  P'  ? P P P P 3 O 

N o Vn  b vO  Vo  r>  O (N  O *0  b o O f3 

O )i  M o M -li  ,*1 

[H  M N h f 

N 

GO 

in 

in 

O' 

00 

'O  . 

VC*® 

'^00 

Empire 

Spring. 

O N vo  vO  O r<  »n  fo  o m 00  m 

m 0"0  O 00  N m m • O'  O fo  • m 

•O  JN  O'  o o 0"p  p ^ JC"  p u U 

Co  V b b rt  b O'  b O'  Pi  b b b b ps  b V.  rt 

O ,>i  - O ->1  ->1 

m [H  H H 

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p- 

b 

00 

lO 

p fo 

Union 

Spring. 

O'fOt^O'  mOmro  fO  O'OO  vD  fO 

O'  fO  O ro  .*  O 1 00  O O 'O  M N N m • 

N CO  O 3 ^ P P 8 P"  P 'P  P O PP  U 

oo  00  b o pj  b b"b  Pi  b b b b PI  b b rt 

lO  U HO  O',^ 

rt  ^ H ^ H H 

? 1 

0 

1 NOfo 

Zo 

(»oo 

CO  ^ 

Geyser 

spouting 

well. 

O-^Noo  TfNfONinTj-  O'OO  »n 

p vO^  IN  g o p P p^  fO  2)  ^ P 

b b b b (*  K b O'  b b b b b Pi  fi  b Pi 

•n  H ^ HHH  H 

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inb  m: 
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) 

1- 

Congress 

Spring. 

Tf  O'  O'OO  H m O'  00  0 0''0  0 

m fo  vD  m O'  /,  N '>*•  00  m "I- 

p-  p y>  1 P’  0 P'  PP  0 0 0 0 

b 00  00  b b-  b b Vo  pi  b b b 0 5?  pi  b 

§.  H - -H  HH  H 

m 1 

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b 

0 

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■s  g-^ 

O'  M 

Hathorn 

Spring. 

00  -^00  r^oo  fO'O  t'»oo  nC  10 

sO  O'  fo  O'  /,  -^oo  'O  fo  N • 0 fovo  .* 

O'  m in  H g Tj-  N Tfo  ^ 2;  0 0 ” S 

Qv  'o'  1 b Pi  b V b b Pi  b H rS  0 Pi  b b pj 

0 ViMf^C^ii  J-Il,  V. 

S,  H - -H  H H H 

m 

0 

00 

00 

00 

in 
^ w 
•inO 

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cn 

United 

States 

Spring. 

N n-  Tj-  t>.  tvso  fo  O'OO  O'  vo 

N 'll-  'I-  0 00  M n 0 1 • *1  O'  00  .t 

w p p 0 3p P p p P P 3 ° 0 0 

b 00  b b Pi  b-  V b Vo  0 b b 0 Pi  b Vo  pi 

t'N 

cn 

P 

cn 

cn 

m 
cn  cn 

^8 
m y 

Th  H 

N 

l’avilion| 

Spring. 

foot-'H  '0'^t>.0'  inopir'"  0'»n 

0 vO  00  00  vD  'O  vO  r'.  ro  0 N m 

p'p  O'  0 p-  r>  p n p pi  p 0 « p p " 

O'  0 0 O'  cob  Occ’ONC^OPloVoPl 

in  c-^  N ^>1  ^>1 

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cn  M 
cn 

High 

Eock 

Spring. 

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N rooo  • 'O  00  N CO  n',  O'  0 /,  a')  N 'O  aj 

H O'  C^  p _0'P  O'  t'>  P p>p  ^ p P y 

b 00  b b Pi  b v 1 Pi  b b b rt  b b rt 

8 

in 

b 

cn 

vO 

00  N , 
m o'Ci 
^ 0 

O'.OO 
0 M 1 

n 

Chloride  of  sodiurn 

Chloride  of  potassium 

Bromide  of  sodium 

Iodide  of  sodium 

Fluoride  of  calcium ... 

Bicarbonate  of  lithia 

Bicarbonate  of  soda. 

Bicarbonate  of  magnesia 

Bicarbonate  of  lime  

Bicarbonate  of  strontia  

Bicarbonate  of  baryta 

Bicarbonate  of  iron- 

Sulphate  of  potassa 

Phosphate  of  soda 

Biborate  of  soda 

Alumina 

Silica 

Organic  matter 

Total  per  United  States 

gallon,  231  cubit  inches.. 

Carbonate  acid  gas 

Density 

) 

1 

5 

i 

} 

H 

TOURIStS^  HANDBOOK. 


Ill 


cathartic  leaves  none  of  those  unpleasant  effects  observable 
in  the  use  of  majuy  other  of  the  Saratoga  waters.  Adams  & 
Jones  are  proprietors. 

Having  thus  familiarized  ourselves  with  the  principal 
springs,  we  will,  before  noting  other  objects  of  interest, 
examine  the  appended  analysis  on  opposite  page. 

Bottling  the  Waters. 

The  process  of  bottling  is  similar  at  all  the  springs,  and 
as  the  Congress  bottling-house  is  the  most  famous,  a descrip- 
tion of  it  will  suffice  for  the  whole,  as  given  by  Mr.  C.  C. 
Dawson  of  New  York  : — 

“ Probably  not  one-fifth  part  of  the  waters  of  these 
springs,  which  are  used  medicinally,  are  drank  in  Sara- 
toga. Multitudes,  it  is  true,  flock  here  during  the  summer 
months;  but  their  stay  is  usually  limited  to  a few  brief 
weeks — a time,  in  many  cases,  too  short  for  these  mild  nat- 
ural remedies  to  accomplish  their  perfect  work.  Thousands 
of  visitors,  therefore,  find  it  necessary  to  continue  the  use  of 
the  waters  after  leaving  the  springs;  and  great  numbers  of 
other  sufferers  from  the  various  ills  which  flesh  is  heir  to, 
who  are  not  able  to  visit  Saratoga,  still  find  the  waters  a 
source  of  comfort  and  health.  Thus,  while  the  benefit  of 
these  springs  is  enjoyed  at  Saratoga  only  by  a comparatively 
limited  number  of  persons,  and  principally  during  a brief 
season,  their  blessings  are  carried,  by  means  of  the  bottled 
waters,  all  over  the  world,  and  are  dispensed  to  multiplied 
thousands  without  regard  to  season  or  clime.  A large  and 
important  branch  of  commerce  has  thus  sprung  into  exist- 
ence, involving  a liberal  expenditure  of  capital,  and  furnish- 
ing employment,  directly  or  indirectly,  to  a great  number  of 
persons.  The  bottling  and  packing  is  carried  on  throughout 
the  year;  and,  except  during  the  height  of  the  visiting  sea- 
son, when  so  much  is  consumed  at  the  springs  as  materially 
to  decrease  the  supply  for  bottling,  the  work  is  prosecuted 


1I2 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


night  and  day.  The  arrangements  for  this  purpose  are  the 
most  complete  of  anything  of  the  kind  in  the  country;  and 
all  the  various  operations  are  carried  on  with  care,  skill  and 
perfection  unsurpassed.  In  order  to  increase  their  facilities, 


the  Congress  Spring  Company  have  erected  a glass  factory 
near  the  village,  where  they  not  only  make  all  the  bottles 
required  in  their  own  immense  business,  but  fill  large  orders 


tOlfRIStS^  HANbBOOR:. 


113 

for  all  kinds  of  bottles  for  other  purposes.  Some  eighteen 
or  twenty  neat  cottages  in  the  same  part  of  the  village  have 
been  erected  by  the  company  for  the  use  of  their  factory 
operatives. 

“Each  bottle,  before  being  filled,  is  thoroughly  washed 
and  rinsed  with  both  warm  and  cold  water,  a stream  of  each 
of  w'dch  is  constantly  pouring  into  the  tanks  before  the 
washers.  To  detach  any  impurities  that  cannot  he  removed 
by^  other  mrans,  a small  brass  chain  is  dropjied  into  eacti 
bottle  and  thoroughly  shaken  about.  The  substitution  ( f 
this  simide  and  effective  method  ot  cleansing  for  the  use  ot 
shot  or  pebble  is  an  improvement  which  might  well  be 
adopted  by  every  housewife. 

“ None  but  the  finest  corks  are  used;  the  brands  used  for 
branding  them  are  set  into  a small  table,  their  lettered  faces 
being  nearly  level  with  its  surface.  They  are  kept  hot  by  a 
jet  of  gas  turned  on  them  from  below;  and  the  corks  rece-ve 
their  brand  by  being  rolled  over  the  heated  types — an  expeit 
boy-  performing  the  simple  operation  with  great  rapidity. 

“ rhe  water  is  pumped  from  the  spring  through  pure 
block-tin  pipes  into  a receiver  holding  from  five  to  six  gal- 
lons, from  which  it  is  drawn  into  the  bottles;  the  pipes, 
pump  and  receiver  being  so  constructed  as  to  prevent  any 
escape  of  the  natural  gases.  The  corks,  after  being  soaked 
in  warm  water  until  they  become  so  soft  as  to  be  easily  com- 
pressed, are  dri\en  into  the  bottle  by  machinery,  the  process 
reducing  their  size  before  entering  the  bottles  about  one- 
third.  It,  requires  a strong  bottle  to  stand  the  pressure  of 
their  expansion  after  being  driven  in;  and  even  strong  men 
sometimes  find  it  difficult  to  pull  them  out.  A single  work- 
man will  fill  and  cork  from  fifteen  to  twenty  dozen  bottles 
per  hour. 

“After  being  filled  and  corked,  the  bottles  are  laid  upon 
their  sides  in  large  bins  holding  from  150  to  200  dozen  each, 
where  they  are  allowed  to  remain  four  or  five  days,  or 
longer,  to  test  the  strength  of  the  bottles  by  the  expansion 


114 


TOURISTS^  handbook. 


of  the  gas,  and  also  to  detect  any  corks  that  may  be  leaky 
or  otherwise  imperfect.  The  breakage,  while  in  this  situa- 
tion is  about  five  per  cent  of  the  whole  number  filled,  and 
sometimes  more.  The  bottles  frequently  burst  with  a sharp 
report,  like  the  firing  of  a pistol  or  the  cracking  of  cham- 
pagne bottles.  Every  bottle  that  breaks,  either  while  in  the 
testing-bins  or  in  any  of  the  various  processes  of  washing, 
filling  or  packing,  is  registered  in  the  office  of  the  company 
by  means  of  wires  going  from  different  parts  of  the  estab- 
lishment, and  centring  there  in  an  apparatus  arranged  for 
the  purpose  All  leaky  corks  are  drawn,  and  the  bottles 
refilled  with  water  direct  from  the  spring  While  all  these 
precautions  add  largely  to  the  expense  of  putting  up  the 
waters,  they  render  a leaky,  and  consequently  a bad  bottle 
of  Saratoga  water  almost  impossible;  and  they  also  render 
the  breakage  of  bottles  in  subsequent  handling  a matter  of 
rare  occurrence. 

“ When  the  bottles  and  corks  have  been  thus  thoroughly 
tested,  the  corks  are  securely  wired,  this  operation  being 
performed  with  great  rapidity  by  employees  long  trained  to 
the  work. 

“The  next  process  is  the  packing  in  cases,  which  is  also 
done  with  great  care  and  remarkable  dexterity.  The  neck  of 
each  bottle  is  firmly  wound  with  clean  straw;  and  the  bottles 
are  placed  on  their  sides  in  tiers  of  equal  number,  a parting 
strip  of  straw  being  laid  between  each  bottle  and  its  neighbor 
on  either  side.  A layer  of  straw  is  also  placed  between  the 
tiers  of  bottles,  as  well  as  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  box. 
When  the  box  is  filled,  the  packer  walks  over  the  bottles  for 
the  double  purpose  of  settling  them  properly  in  their  places, 
and  as  a further  test  of  their  strength,  before  the  lid  is  put  in 
its  place  and  nailed  down.” 

The  Hotels  of  Saratoga. 

Saratoga  has  long  been  famed  for  its  grand  hotels,  wherein, 
during  the  season,  the  wealth  and  fashion  of  the  whole  coun- 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


IIS 


try  assemble,  and  where  all  the  luxuries  of  a city  home  or  the 
palace  of  a foreign  nobleman  can  be  found,  wdthin  a minute’s 
walk  of  the  healing  springs.  Of  all  the  great  hostelries 
which  have  existed  at  the  springs,  the  old  United  States  has 
been  one  of  the  most  noted,  but  that  was  burned  several  years 
ago.  pn  its  site,  at  a cost  of  over  $1,000,000,  has  been  erect- 
ed and  in  1874  opened  to  the  public,  the  most  stupendous,  as 
well  as  the  most  elegant  hotel  in  the  country,  if  not  in  the 
world. 

The  United  States  Hotel. 

This  marvel  of  public  houses  is  situated  on  Broadway  and 
Division  streets,  extending  on  the  latter  fully  back  to  the  de- 
pot, with  which  it  communicates  by  a lofty-arched  passage  for 
the  convenience  of  guests  who  arrive  in  rainy  weather.  To 
say  that  the  building  is  immense,  conveys  no  idea  of  its  pro- 
portions ; that  its  internal  arrangements  are  unequalled,  will 
not  describe  them ; that  its  park,  promenades,  ball-room,  and 
wide  verandas  are  beautiful,  lovely,  exquisite  and  delightful, 
cannot  picture  them  as  they  deserve.  The  building  covers 
seven  acres  of  ground,  and  is  arranged  in  the  form  of  an  ir- 
regular pentagon,  having  a frontage  of  232  fedt  on  Broadway, 
503  on  Division  street,  and  153  on  Railroad  place,  extending 
back  through  all  its  length  54  feet.  At  the  south  end  of  the 
“main  front”  commences  the  “ Cottage  Wing,”  and  extends 
back  at  right  angles  to  the  main  building  566  feet.  This  wing 
is  one  of  the  prominent  and  peculiar  features  of  the  building, 
being  intended  to  give  families  and  parties  the  same  quiet  and 
seclusion  which  they  could  get  in  a private  cottage,  with  the 
addition  ofthe  attention  and  conveniences  belonging  to  a first- 
class  hotel.  In  this  wing  the  rooms  are  arranged  in  suites, 
containing  from  one  to  seven  bedrooms,  with  parlor,  bath- 
room, and  water-closet  attached  to  each  suite.  Here  families 
can  dine  at  their  own  table  if  they  choose,  and  be  in  every 
way  as  much  isolated  as  if  in  a private  villa  of  their  own.  In 
the  main  front,  on  Broadway,  is  the  grand  drawing-room? 


UNITED  STATES  HOTEL, 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK'. 


II7 

86  feet  in  length  bj  50  in  breath,  furnished  in  blue,  with  the 
finest  Axminster  carpets,  carved  black  walnut  and  marble 
furniture,  superb  curtains  and  chandeliers.  The  chandeliers 
in  this  room  cost  each  $1000. 

North  of  the  entrance  hall  is  the  ladies’  parlor,  furnished 
with  exquisite  taste.  Next  comes  the  gentlemen’s  reading- 
room,  on  the  corner  of  Broadway  and  Division  streets,  con- 
nected with  the  business  offices,  in  which  is  the  largest 
telegraphic  annunciator  in  the  world,  sixteen  feet  square. 
West  of  this  is  the  grand  dining-hall,  fifty  by  two  hundred 
and  twelve  feet,  also  the  private  dining-parlors,  offices,  wine- 
room,  etc.  The  grand  ballroom  is  situated  in  the  second 
story  of  the  Division-street  wing,  and  is  without  doubt  the 
finest  room  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  Connected  with  it  is  a 
quiet  and  secluded  veranda  overlooking  the  lawn.  This 
retreat,  dimly  lighted,  and  secure  from  inquiring  eyes  as  it  is, 
where  the  strains  of  music  from  the  ballroom  are  faintly 
heard,  mingled  with  the  plashing  of  the  fountain  beneath, 
and  the  murmur  of  the  wind  in  the  tree-tops  which  bend 
above  it,  is  the  most  delightful  spot  imaginable  for  the 
exchange  of  those  sweet  nothings,  which,  far  more  than  the 
music  or  the  intoxication  of  the  dreamy  waltz,  go  to  make  up 
the  fascination  of  the  grand  balls  to  susceptible  young  men 
and  maidens.  All  the  rooms  throughout  the  house  are  fur- 
nished in  the  richest  and  most  tasteful  style,  with  running 
water  in  each.  . The  elevators,  two  in  number,  are  of  the  Otis 
Bros’,  manufacture.  One  is  intended  solely  for  the  use  of 
arriving  and  the  other  for  departing  guests.  The  manage- 
ment is  in  the  hands  of  the  Hon.  J.  M.  Marvin,  the  long-time 
proprietor  of  the  old  hotel.  There  are  many  other  fine  hotels 
in  Saratoga;  but  they  will  not  require  a detailed  description, 
for  they  have  been  long  and  favorably  known  to  the  travelling 
public.  Each  has  some  special  point  of  attraction  ; but  these 
have  been  so  often  enlarged  upon,  that  the  tourist  feels  per- 
fectly acquainted  with  them.  Prominent  among  them  is 


TOURISTS^  //AND BOOK. 


1 18 


The  Grand  Union  Hotel, 

on  Broadway,  a short  distance  south  of  the  United  States, 
this  season  under  the  control  of  Messrs.  J.  H.  Breslin, 
& Co.  It  accommodates  twelve  hundred  guests.  Across  the 
street,  directly  opposite  the  Grand  Union,  is 

Congress  Hall. 

This  structure  is  four  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  in  length, 
and  is  supplied  with  every  thing  that  can  give  pleasure,  and 
add  to  the  comfort  of  guests.  At  each  extremity  there  are 
two  large  wings  that  extend  back  three  hundred  feet,  and 
greatly  enlarge  the  accommodations.  Like  the  Grand  Union, 
it  occupies  an  entire  square,  covering  all  the  space  between 
Spring  and  Congress  streets.  Congress  Hall  occupies  the 
site  of  a former  house  of  the  same  name,  which  was  burned 
in  May,  1866.  The  proprietors  are  Hathorn  & Southgate. 

On  Broadway,  south  of  the  Grand  Union  stood  the  Grand 
Central  Hotel,  which  was  leased  by  Mr.  John  B.  Cozzens, 
but  which  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  November,  1874. 

On  Broadway,  South  of  the  Grand  Union,  is  the 

Columbia  Hotel, 

which  is  owned  and  kept  by  D.  A.' Dodge,  of  Brooklyn  New 
York.  Its  front  forms  one  of  the  chain  of  hotels  reaching 
from  the  west  end  of  the  United  States  to  the  Clarendon,  and 
looks  off  on  Congress  Spring  Park,  one  of  the  prettiest 
plateaus  of  Saratoga.  This  house  is  specially  kept  as  a family 
hotel,  homelike  in  apartments  and  moderate  in  charges,  and 
will  be  found  a pleasant  stopping  place. 

Still  south  of  the  Grand  Central,  we  come  to  another  of  the 
older  Saratoga  hotels,  the  Clarendon  Hotel,  Mr.  Charles  E. 
Leland,  proprietor.  This  house  is  one  of  the  most  aristocratic 
at  the  Springs,  and  is  too  well  known  to  require  other  than 
this  passing  mention. 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


IT9 


The  Holden  House 

is  on  Broadway,  two  doors  north  of  tlie  United  States,  and  is 
owned  and  managed  by  Mr.  C.  H.  Holden,  who  has  just  refur- 
nished, recarpeted,  repapered  and  repainted  it  throughout, 
and  made  it  one  of  the  handsomest  as  well  as  most  comfort- 
able of  the  smaller  hotels  of  Saratoga.  Mr.  Holden  has 
made  many  friends  by  his  long  connection  with  railroad  and 
steamboat  business,  and  the  travelling  public  will  naturally 
gravitate  to  his  hotel.  Everything  is  as  complete  in  its  way 
here,  as  at  the  large  hotels,  the  bill  of  fare  is  good,  the  rooms 
neat  and  well  furnished,  and  the  prices  are  low.  Mr.  Holden 
is  a gentleman  whom  his  guests  like,  and  carriages  and 
porters  meet  every  train  on  arrival  in  Saratoga. 

The  Waverley  House. 

Another  of  the  small  houses  which  deserves  well  of  the 
public  is  the  Waverley,  on  Broadway,  a short  distance  north 
of  the  Town  Hall.  Major  W.  J.  Riggs,  its  proprietor,  is  a 
genial,  whole-souled  man,  and  makes  himself  a favorite  with  his 
guests.  This  house  accommodates  150  guests,  without  over- 
crowding, and  is  as  well  arranged  as  any  of  the  large  hotels  in 
the  place.  The  parlors  and  dining-rooms  are  large  and  airy, 
and  furnished  in  excellent  taste.  The  sleeping-rooms  and 
private  parlors  are  arranged  in  suites  for  the  convenience  of 
families  and  parties,  or  singly ; and  all  communicate  with  the 
balconies,  which  extend  around  the  house,  and  afford  some  of 
the  loveliest  views  of  the  surrounding  country  to  be  obtained 
in  this  place.  Among  the  chief  attractions  which  this  excel- 
lent house  has  for  those  who  prefer  health,  quiet,  and  comfort 
to  heat,  dust,  noise,  and  discomfort,  are  its  large,  airy,  and 
well-arranged  rooms.  A further  advantage  is  its  moderate 
price. 

There  are  a number  of  public  institutions  of  various  kinds 
in  Saratoga,  which  are  patronized  by  visitors,  not  only  during 
the  summer  season,  but  also,  to  a greater  or  less  extent, 
during  the  whole  of  the  year.  One  of  them  is 


120 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


Strong’s  Remedial  Institute, 

on  Circular  street,  a short  distance  from  Broadway  and  all  the 
principal  hotels  and  springs.  Drs.  S.  S.  and  S.  E.  Strong, 
regular  physicians,  graduates  of  the  University  of  New  York, 


are  the  proprietors.  The  institute  was  established  several 
years  ago,  and  has  enjoyed  a superior  reputation  for  its  treat- 
ment of  invalids,  as  well  as  for  its  hotel  and  boarding  accdm- 


STRONG’S  REMEDIAL  INSTITUTE. 


TO  UR  IS  TS*  HA  NDBOOK. 


I2I 


modations.  During  the  spring  of  1871  the  building  was 
greatly  enlarged,  and  now  affords  accommodations  for  200 
guests.  Its  parlors,  dining-halls,  and  bath-rooms  are  fitted 
up  in  the  most  modern  and  elegant  style ; and  the  general 
appointments  are  of  the  first  order.  Being  somewhat  removed 
from  the  bustle  and  confusion  of  the  larger  hotels,  it  affords 
a delightful  retreat  for  persons  of  impaired  health ; while  re- 
fined and  cultivated  people  will  find  its  society  more  congenial 
than  that  of  the  more  public  houses.  Among  its  annual  pa- 
trons are  the  Rev.  Theodore  L.  Cuyler,  D.  D. ; Ex-Gov.  Wells 
of  Virginia ; Mr.  Robert  Carter,  of  the  firm  of  Carter  Brothers, 
publishers,  of  New  York;  and  many  others  of  like  position 
in  society.  The  Institute  is  supplied  with  new  and  the  most 
improved  appliances  now  known  to  medical  science,  among 
which  are  the  Electrothermal,  Sulphur,  Air,  Turkish,  and 
Russian  Baths ; Swedish  movement  cure ; the  Equalizer  or 
Vacuum  Treatment;  Oxygen  Inhalations ; Gymnastics;  and 
other  varieties  of  hydropathy  and  medicine. 

Temple  Grove  Seminary  is  beautifully  situated  in  a grove, 
on  what  was  formerly  called  Temple  Hill ; and  its  grounds 
occupy  the  whole  square  on  Spring  street,  between  Circular 
and  Regent  streets. 

Social  Life  at  the  Springs. 

But  the  natural  advantages  alone  of  Saratoga  would  have 
never  given  it  the  pre-eminence  above  all  other  watering- 
places  which  it  enjoys.  The  results  of  human  art  and  the 
enjoyments  of  social  and  fashionable  life  are  the  chief  claims 
upon  the  favor  of  many  visitors.  Not  even  the  invalids 
come  here  to  drink  the  waters  alone;  they  expect  to  meet 
and  enjoy  the  society  of  other  invalids,  and  the  gayeties  of 
the  season.  Dancing  and  drinking  are  reckoned  by  some  as 
the  chief  employments  of  guests  at  Saratoga,  and  so  far  as 
the  morning  draught  of  two  or  half  a dozen  glasses  of 
spring  water,  and  the  nightly  hop  at  one  of  the — 

6 


122 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


great  hotels  ablaze  with  light, 

Where  youth  and  beauty,  wealth  and  rank, 
Hold  revel  through  the  night,” 


are  concerned,  the  truth  justifies  the  declaration.  But  there 
are  other  and  even  more  entrancing  social  pleasures  at  the 
Springs,  of  which  we  will  enumerate  a few.  First,  there  is 
the  Lake  Drive.  Saratoga  Lake,  a beautiful  sheet  of  water 
nine  miles  long  and  five  miles  wide,  is  four  miles  distant  from 
the  village  by  the  extension  of  Union  Avenue.  The  drive  is 
a continuation  of  East  Congress  Street,  and  has  a row  of 
trees  each  side  and  one  in  the  middle.  A most  gay  and  bril- 
liant scene  is  presented  on  a bright  August  morning  or  after- 
noon, as  the  long  procession  of  carriages,  in  all  the  richest 
styles,  pass  down  on  one  side  of  the  drive  and  back  on  the 
other.  On  a high  bluff,  near  the  outlet  of  the  Lake,  is 
Moon’s  Lake  House,  kept  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
many  visitors  who  every  fine  day  ride  down  from  the  Springs. 
A mile  beyond  the  Lake  House  is  Chapman’s  Hill,  which 
rises  i8o  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  lake;  and  three  miles 
farther  on  is  Wagner’s  Hill,  240  feet  high.  N.  P.  Willis 
relates,  among  his  legends,  the  following  tradition  of  Sara- 
toga Lake:  “There  is,”  he  says,  “an  Indian  superstition 
attached  to  this  lake,  which  probably  has  its  source  in  its 
remarkable  loneliness  and  tranquility.  The  Mohawks  be- 
lieved that  its  stillness  was  sacred  to  the  Great  Spirit,  and 
that,  if  a human  voice  uttered  a sound  upon  its  waters,  the 
canoe  of  the  offender  would  instantly  sink.  A story  is  told 
of  an  Englishwoman,  in  the  early  days  of  the  first  settlers, 
who  had  occasion  to  cross  this  lake  with  a party  of  Indians, 
who,  before  embarking,  warned  her  most  impressively  of  the 
spell.  It  was  a silent,  breathless  day,  and  the  canoe  shot 
over  the  smooth  surface  of  the  lake  like  an  arrow.  About  a 
mile  from  the  shore,  near  the  centre  of  the  lake,  the  woman 
willing  to  convince  the  savages  of  the  weakness  of  their 
superstition,  uttered  a loud  cry.  The  copntenapces  of  the  In- 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


123 


dians  fell  instantly  to  the  deepest  gloom.  After  a moment’s 
pause,  however,  they  redoubled  their  exertions,  and  in  frowns 
ing  silence  drove  the  light  bark  like  an  arrow  over  the  waters 
They  reached  the  shore  in  safety  and  drew  up  the  canoe, 
and  the  woman  rallied  the  chief  on  his  credulity.  ‘The 
Great  Spirit  is  merciful,’  answered  the  scornful  Mohawk; 
‘he  knows  that  a white  woman  cannot  hold  her  tongue.’” 
Whatever  basis  there  may  be  for  this  legend,  certain  it  is  that 
the  Great  Spirit  has  removed  the  prohibition,  if* any  existed, 
upon  talking  and  laughter  upon  the  lake,  as  witness  any 
pleasant  evening,  when  parties  who  have  ridden  out  to 
Moon’s  are  enjoying  the  delight  of  a moonlight  sail  or  row.” 
The  collegiate  regattas  of  1874  and  1875  on  this  lake  have 
attracted  hosts  of  visitors  hither,  and  have  drawn  general 
attention  to  the  merits  of  this  beautiful  sheet  of  water  as  a 
race  course  for  shells. 

Then,  in  the  season,  there  are  the  races.  The  Saratoga 
race  course  is  only  a mile  from  Broadway,  near  Union  Ave- 
nue, and  it  is  always  kept  in  fine  condition.  The  attendance 
at  the  races  embraces  a large  share  of  the  wealth  and  style  of 
the  country,  and  the  grand  stand  is  filled  not  only  with  inter- 
ested turfmen,  owners  of  fleet  horses  and  gentlemen  of 
means,  but  with  hundreds  of  stylish  and  elegantly  dressed 
ladies,  who  appear  to  be  as  much  excited  over  the  contests  as 
their  male  neighbors,  and  who  freely  wager  such  trifles  as  a 
dozen  gloves  or  a bottle  of  wine  on  their  favorites.  Then 
there  are  the  weekly  balls  at  the  principal  hotels.  At  these, 
of  course,  dancing  is  subordinated  to  dress.  All  the  ladies 
from  each  of  the  other  hotels  will,  of  course,  make  it  a point 
to  stroll  over  in  the  course  of  the  evening  and  see  what 
everybody  “has  on,”  and  it  is  of  course  necessary  to  dress  so 
that  their  feelings  will  be  inexpressible.  Hence  the  size  and 
number  of  the  Saratoga  trunks  which  every  lady  finds  a 
necessity  of  her  outfit  for  the  Springs.  Hence,  also,  the 
reports  in  the  Saratoga  and  the  metropolitan  papers  of  the 


124 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK, 


dresses  of  the  belles.  Many  of  these  glowing  descriptions  are 
inserted  by  special  request.  When  we  read  that  “Miss 
Clementina  Van  Tassel  was  much  admired  in  a ju;pon  of 
mauve  matelasse^  with  peignoir  of  satin  tarleta^ie  cut  bias 
and  ruffled  to  the  waist  with  pink  tulle ; corsage  bouffant  and 
panier  decollete  with  point  lace  en  traine^  a la  maitre  de 
hotel;  hair  a la  cus^idore  dressed  with  callas  and  nastur- 
tiums, (the  description  may  not  be  just  right  in  some  of  its 
details,  but  if  so  any  of  our  lady  readers  will  correct  us)  we 
take  it  for  gi'anted  that  she  or  her  escort  has  given  the  details 
to  the  society  reporter,  who  is  always  glad  to  spice  his  de- 
scription of  the  ball  with  these  personal  “ puffs.”  The  scene 
in  the  grand  ball-room  of  the  United  States,  Grand  Union, 
or  Congress  Hall,  on  one  of  the  ball  nights  fully  justifies  this 
glowing  verse  of  Miles  O’Reilley’s  : — 

A fairy  scene  of  colored  light. 

Of  gorgeous  dress  and  magic  changes. 

Where  still  the  gazer’s  dazzled  sight 
From  beauty  to  new  beauty  ranges. 

Now  rings  the  music  clear  and  high. 

Now  seems  to  die ; now  swells  in  clangors ; 

Voluptuous  visions  fill  the  eye 

And  thrill  the  pulse  with  tropic  languors. 

Flirtation  and  its  Concomitants. 

And  last,  but  most  fascinating  of  all,  there  is  — flirtation. 
Without  this  chiefest  of  watering  place  charms,  social  life 
even  at  Saratoga  would  lose  its  attraction.  The  promenade 
on  the  balcony  between  dances ; the  whispered  word  or  the 
sly  glance  over  the  morning  glass  at  the  spring ; the  moon- 
light drive  to  the  Lake,  the  “holding  hands”  on  the  Clar- 
endon piazza  or  on  the  benches  in  the  Park  — all  these 
delights  would  be  blotted  out  and  Saratoga  would  become  to 
the  young  and  impressible,  a dreary  waste,  a howling  wilder- 
ness — that  is,  if  a wilderness  ever  howls.  J.  Cheever  Good- 
win, the  talented  young  poet  and  dramatist  of  Boston,  has 


TO  URIS  TS*  HA  NDBOOK.  1 2 5 

illustrated  in  graceful  verse  the  romance  of  a Saratoga  flirta- 
tion, as  follows  : — 

It  was  up  at  Saratoga  that  I met  her, 

Where  I went  to  drink  the  waters  for  my  health ; 

And  her  stylish  way  (I  never  shall  forget  her) 

Seemed  to  me  a sure  concomitant  of  wealth. 

In  her  figure  and  her  face  she  was  a Venus ; 

Like  the  evanescent  lightning  shone  her  eyes  : 

In  the  dining-room  one  table  was  between  us; 

But  love  such  paltry  distances  defies. 

I smiled  my  adoration  o’er  my  coffee, 

Drank  deep  of  tender  passion  with  my  tea  : 

As  the  waiter  took  my  trout  untasted  off,  he 
Little  thought  it  was  so  typical  of  me. 

I was  caught  as  fast  as  ever  were  the  fishes ; 

And  the  hook  went  deeper  in  with  every  meal : 

But  my  hopes  were  all  as  empty  as  the  dishes ; 

And  my  sorrow  cut  as  deep  as  knife  of  steel. 

’Twas  in  vain  I promenaded  the  piazza : 

She  was  never  in  the  parlor  night  or  day; 

And  I thought,  “ She  is  an  invalid,  and  has  a- 
N injunction  in  her  room  to  always  stay. 

For  I never  find  her  drinking  at  the  Hathorn  ; 

To  the  hops  or  balls  I never  see  her  go ; 

She  is  never  betting  Belmont  or  McGrath  on. 

At  the  races  where  so  many  beauties  show.” 

My  suspicions  were,  alas  ! substantiated  ; 

For  excepting  at  our  meals  we  never  met : 

You ’d  have  surely  thought  I was  a man  she  hated, 
Excepting  for  the  smiles  I used  to  get. 

“ Does  she  ever  think  of  me?  ” I sadly  wonder  : 

“ When  she ’s  seated  at  her  breakfast  or  her  tea. 
Through  the  many  miles  that  keep  us  now  asunder, 

Does  her  memory  ever  send  a thought  to  me?” 

And  I sadly  fear  I ’m  utterly  forgotten. 

That  my  presence  would  not  cause  her  heart  to  stir. 
That  she ’d  give  to  see  me  not  a single  button. 

Though  I ’d  gladly  give  a dozen  to  see  her. 


126 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


Schroon  Lake  and  Neighboring  Hesorts. 

Taking  Saratoga  as  our  point  of  departure,  there  are  several 
excursions  v^hich  vre  can  make  with  ease,  and  by  which  we 
can  visit  many  scenes  of  interest  in  a very  few  days  and  by 
comparatively  very  few  miles  of  travel.  The  Adirondack 
Railroad,  which  is  pushing  its  waj^  northward  from  Saratoga 
into  the  heart  of  the  great  wilderness  only  trodden  by  the 
wild  deer  and  the  Indian  until  within  a few  years,  affords  easy 
communication  with  a number  of  noted  resorts,  embracing 
views  of  Nature  in  all  her  pristine  beauty  and  savage  grandeur, 
within  a few  hours’  ride  of  the  grand  hotels  of  the  Springs. 
A trip  of  fifty  miles  in  the  cars  brings  us  to  Riverside  station, 
but  a few  miles  short  of  the  present  terminus  of  the  railroad 
(North  Creek),  whence  we  take  a stage  for  a six  mile  ride  to 
the  foot  of  Schroon  Lake,  a favorite  and  very  beautiful  resort. 
Schroon  Lake  is  unique  as  a watering-place,  being  in  a semi- 
wilderness,— the  outskirts  of  the  Adirondack  region, — and 
surrounded  by  wild  and  rugged  hills,  yet  as  has  been  shown, 
within  a few  miles  of  the  railroad,  which  is  in  effect  the  same 
as  if  it  were  within  twenty  miles  of  Saratoga  by  stage.  Ac- 
cordingly, we  shall  be  very  apt  to  find  the  cars  well  filled  and 
outside  seats  on  the  stages  in  lively  demand,  if  we  go  to 
Schroon  in  the  Summer  season.  The  Lake  is  nine  miles  long, 
and  averages  about  two  miles  wide,  except  at  the  Narrows, 
which  contract  to  half  a mile  or  less  in  width,  about  midway 
its  length.  At  the  upper  end  is  the  village  of  Schroon  Lake ; 
at  the  lower  end,  where  the  stage  deposits  us,  is  Pottersville. 
The  outlet  is  at  the  latter  point,  and  the  water  finds  its  way 
through  Schroon  river  to  the  Hudson,  near  Warrensburgh, 
20  miles  south.  Schroon  Lake  is  also  reached  by  staging  from 
Lake  George  to  Thurman,  nine  miles  thence  by  rail,  14  miles 
to  Riverside.  At  Pottersville,  the  hotel  kept  by  L.  R.  Locke, 
affords  us  a good  dinner  or  accommodations  for  a longer  stay 
if  we  choose,. teams  for  a trip  into  the  wilderness  or  convey- 
ance to  the  Landing  at  the  foot  of  the  Lake,  where  the  little 
steamer  Effingham  is  in  waiting  to  convey  us  to  Schroon, 


TOlTRISTS^  UANDBOO!^. 


127 


through  the  entire  length  of  the  beautiful  sheet  of  water.  A 
little  to  the  north  of  the  village  a swift  mountain  stream,  on 
its  way  to  the  Lake,  has  worn  a channel  through  the  white 
marble,  which  forms  a natural  arch  above  it,  40  feet  high  and 
247  feet  long.  The  lake,  which  is  really  a widening  of  the 
Schroon  River,  or  northeast  branch  of  the  Hudson,  is  at  a 
level  of  1000  feet  above  tide  water,  and  has  but  a single  island, 
Isola  Bella,  near  the  northern  extremity.  There  have  been 
various  attempts  to  assign  an  Indian  paternity  to  the  name 
Schroon,  but  it  is  far  more  likely  that  the  tradition  which  as- 
signs its  name  to  the  early  French  occupants  of  Crown  Point, 
who  gave  it  the  title  of  “ Scaron,”  after  Madame  deMaintenon 
(Scaron),  the  second  wife  of  Louis  XIV.  From  the  landing, 
the  little  steamer  shoots  across  the  lake  northeasterly,  to  a 
considerable  bay  on  the  east  shore  at  the  head  of  which  Mill 
Brook  empties  into  the  Lake.  Near  its  mouth,  a new  hotel, 
the  Wells  House,  is  attracting  a good  share  of  patronage. 
Thence  in  a long,  sweeping  curve,  we  plow  through  the  Nar- 
rows and  lay  a straight  course  for  the  little  cluster  of  houses 
interspersed  with  hotels  which  form  the  village  of  Schroon, 
passing  on  the  right  Isola  Bella,  with  its  villa  and  gardens. 
Here  is  the  Leland  House,  overlooking  half  the  lake  from  its 
elevated  site  on  a projection  from  the  west  shore  ; nearby  the 
Wickham  House,  new  and  commodious,  and  the  Taylor  House 
and  Ondawa  House  to  the  left  as  the  boat  stands  in.  At  any  of 
these  hotels,  comfortable  rooms,  the  best  of  mountain  fare, 
boats  and  guides  can  be  had  at  reasonable  rates,  and  the 
visitor  can  highly  enjoy  a day’s  or  a month’s  stay,  varied  by 
excursions  down  the  Lake  or  into  the  woods ; the  ascent  of 
Mount  Pharaoh  and  Mount  Severn,  and  the  fishing  in  Pharaoh 
Lake  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  of  the  same  name,  whence 
trout  are  taken  in  great  numbers.  Paradox  Lake,  nine  miles 
north,  is  much  visited.  It  is  a lovely  and  secluded  pond,  with 
romantic  scenery  and  good  fishing  for  its  recommendations 
It  is  one  of  the  feeders  of  Schroon  river,  and  it  derives  its 
name  from  the  fact  that  it  is  so  little  above  the  level  of  the 


128  TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 

stream,  that  in  the  Spring  freshets  the  water  of  the  river  runs 
into  it,  instead  of  out.  Long  Pond,  Pyramid  Pond  and  other 
small  and  nameless  little  tarns  lie  in  its  immediate  vicinity, 
Pratt’s  hotel,  near  the  head  of  Paradox,  being  the  head-quar- 
ters of  visitors  to  the  region. 

Returning  to  Pottersville  by  steamer,  and  thence  by  stage 
lo  Riverside,  we  may  find  it  worth  while  to  stop  at  Charles- 
town, six  miles  from  Pottersville,  and  thence  make  discur- 
sions  to  Brant  Lake,  nestled  among  the  Kayaderosseras  peaks, 
in  the  town  of  Horicon,  and  the  other  points  in  the  vicinity. 
Returning  by  rail  from  Riverside  to  Hadley,  28  miles,  many 
tourists  alight  for  a visit  to  the  village  and  Lake  of  Luzerne 
on  the  opposite,  or  east  bank  of  the  Hudson.  The  lake  is  a 
quiet  and  picturesque  little  body  of  water,  among  the  hills, 
700  feet  above  sea  level,  with  a single  island.  In  the  village 
are  the  Wayside  Hotel,  Rockwell’s  and  the  Wilcox  House,  all 
of  good  repute,  and  here  boats  can  be  procured  for  the  navi- 
gation of  the  lake,  and  teams  for  the  many  fine  drives  in  the 
vicinity.  The  following  lines  by  Percival  find  an  echo  in  the 
feeling  of  visitors  to  this  lovely  little  mountain  mirror : 

The  waves  along  thy  pebbly  shore. 

As  blows  the  north  wind,  heave  their  foam, 

And  curl  around  the  dashing  oar. 

As  late  the  boatman  hies  him  home. 

How  sweet  at  set  of  sun,  to  view 

Thy  golden  mirror,  spreading  wide ; 

And  see  the  mist  of  mantling  blue 

Float  round  the  distant  mountain  side. 

At  midnight  hour,  as  shines  the  moon, 

A sheet  of  silver  spreads  below; 

And  swift  she  cuts,  at  highest  noon. 

Light  clouds  like  wreaths  of  purest  snow. 

On  thy  fair  bosom,  silver  lake, 

O,  I could  ever  sweep  the  oar ; 

When  early  birds  at  morning  wake. 

And  evening  tells  us  toils  are  o’er. 


TOURISl'S^  HANDBOOK. 


129 


The  village  of  Hadley  stands  at  the  junction  of  the  Sacon- 
daga  river  with  the  Hudson.  The  Indians  called  it  Tiosa- 
wonda,  or  the  “Meeting  of  the  Waters.”  Near  by  are  Jes- 
sup’s Little  Falls,  or  Luzerne  Rapids,  where  the  Hudson 
dashes  between  lofty  banks  over  a declivity  of  18  feet.  Jes- 
sup’s Great  Fall,  five  miles  below,  is  70  feet  high,  and  is 
much  visited.  From  Hadley  we  cross  the  Sacondaga  river  on 
a bridge  450  feet  long  and  96  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  river. 

The  Route  to  Lake  George. 

But  by  far  the  greater  proportion  of  visitors  to  Saratoga 
make  their  principal  excursion  thence  to  Lake  George.  This 
far-famed  lake,  which  has  no  rival  in  this  country  so  far,  for 
gradeur  and  beauty  of  scenery,  facility  of  access  and  superb 
accommodations,  is  usually  visited  by  thousands  of  tourists, 
while  many  wealthy  families  from  New  York  and  other  cities 
own  islands  or  seats  on  the  shores  where  they  spend  a portion 
of  each  summer.  Many  of  the  villas  are  of  great  elegance, 
and  the  air  of  the  entire  locality  and  its  visitors  is  that  of 
refinement  and  luxury.  The  lake  is  about  thirty-one  miles  at 
its  nearest  point,  Caldwell,  from  Saratoga,  and  is  reached  by 
taking  the  cars  of  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad  to 
Fort  Edward,  seventeen  miles  northeast,  and  by  the  Glen’s 
Falls  Branch,  five  miles  northwest,  to  Glen’s  Falls,  on  the 
Hudson  river,  two  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth.  This 
village,  which  has  a population  of  about  8,000,  is  one  the  of 
most  thriving  and  certainly  one  of  the  handsomest  of  inland 
towns.  The  Rockwell  House,  fronting  on  the  fine  public 
square — with  its  Soldiers’  Monument  surrounded  by  an  eagle 
and  flanked  by  military  statues ; its  lofty  and  handsome  foun 
tain,  which,  perpetually  playing,  scatters  its  misty  spray  over 
the  broad  street  and  delightfully  cools  the  air ; and  with  its 
tree-shaded  and  neatly  kept  streets  diverging  in  various  direc- 
tions — is  a fine,  commodious  house,  much  frequented.  The 
industries  of  Glen’s  Falls  comprise  its  quarries  of  black  mar- 
ble and  limestone;  its  paper  and  saw  mills  and  its  trade  with 
6* 


130 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


the  country  around.  Its  chief  feature  of  interest  is  the  great 
fall  of  the  Hudson  from  which  its  name  is  derived.  The  sub- 
stratum of  this  region  is  black  limestone,  which  is  crystallized 
in  places,  and  so  regularly  stratified  that  a perpendicular 
section  looks  like  hewn  stones  in  the  wall  of  a building. 
The  action  of  the  water  has  worn  some  of  these  strata  away, 
a few  at  the  top,  and  more  farther  down  the  falls ; so  that  a 
kind  of  irregular  series  of  steps  has  been  formed,  over  which 
the  waters  of  the  river  go  thundering  down  a descent  of 
over  fifty  feet.  Seen  in  the  sunlight,  rainbows  appear 
in  the  clouds  of  spray  that  are  tossed  into  the  air  just  below. 
The  river  has  worn  its  way  deep  into  the  black  limestone, 
which  rises  in  some  places  to  the  height  of  seventy  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  river.  A bridge  six  hundred  feet 
long,  which  rests  on  a marble  island  in  the  centre,  crosses  the 
Hudson  at  this  point,  and  from  it  one  of  the  best  views  of  the 
falls  is  obtained.  By  a private  stairway  that  goes  down  near 
the  bridge,  one  may  reach, two  objects  of  interest,  Indian 
Cave  and  Big  Snake.  The  cave  runs  through  a small  island, 
from  one  channel  to  another.  This  is  said  to  be  the  place  of 
concealment  of  Cora  and  Alice,  Mayor  Hayward  and  the 
singing-master,  characters  familiar  to  the  readers  of  Cooper’s 
“ Last  of  the  Mohicans.”  Here  David  blew  his  pitch-pipe  and 
sang  “ The  Isle  of  Wight  ” to  the  accompaniment  of  the  roar- 
ing waters,  and  here  Uncas  watched  over  the  slumbers  of  the 
fair  sisters.  It  is  a capital  place  to  grow  romantic,  and  after 
a scramble  through  the  rocky  cavern,  one  can  imagine  a 
Mingo  hidden  in  every  bush  on  the  shore,  and  can  hear  the 
scalp-song  in  every  note  of  the  rushing  stream.  “ Big  Snake  ” 
is  the  name  applied  to  the  likeness  of  a serpent  in  a vein  of 
stone  projecting  from  the  smooth  surface  of  a softer  ledge.  In 
the  rocks  near  the  falls  many  trilobites  and  others  of  our  fossil 
ancestors  (according  to  Darwin)  are  entombed,  but  no  one 
seems  to  weep  over  the  tomb  of  his  remote  progenitor.  The 
Darwinian  theory  is  all  very  nice  — for  other  people  — but 
somehow,  no  one  wants  to  take  it  home  to  himself.  Caldwell, 


TOURISTS'  II  AND  boor:  , 


at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  is  nine  miles  from  Glen’s  Falls, 
which  is  reached  by  a romantic  and  view-affording  stage  ride 
by  the  plank  road.  As  we  rattle  out  of  Glen’s  Falls  in  fine 
style,  occupying,  if  the  day  be  fair  and  we  lucky,  seats  “ on 
top  ” of  the  Concord  coach,  drawn  by  its  four  spanking 
roadsters,  through  the  toll-gate,  past  the  fair  grounds  and 
then  over  hill  and  dale  in  a nearly  direct  northeasterly  course 
— by  ponds  starred  with  fragrant  pond  lilies,  through  dense 
woods  whose  arching  branches  unite  over  our  heads  and 
sometimes  almost  scrape  us  off  the  coach  as  we  dash  beneath 
them  — to  the  “ Half  Way  House,”  where  George  Brown,  the 
jovial  host,  is  always  ready  to  get  up  a milk  punch  or  a lemon- 
ade for  each  thirsty  soul.  As  we  traverse  the  region  of  the 
ponds  we  are  waylaid  by  Bedouins,  that  is,  we  suppose  they 
are  Bedouins,  young  Arabs  laden  with  the  white  lilies  tied  up 
in  odorous  bunches,  which  they  shy  into  the  coach  windows, 
and  with  which  they  bombard  the  roof  passengers,  meantime 
trotting  alongside  the  team  in  expectation  of  back-shish  ” 
which  they  generally  get  in  the  form  of  a hail-storm  of  cop- 
pers. Shortly  after  passing  the  Half  Way  House  we  see  the 
Williams  Monument,  a marble  obelisk  eight  feet  high,  stand- 
ing on  a huge  boulder  upon  a side  hill  to  the  left  of  the  road. 
The  inscription  reads  : — 

ERECTED  TO  THE 
MEMORY  OF 

COLONEL  EPHRAIM  WILLIAMS, 

A Native  of  Newton,  Mass., 
who  after 

GALLANTLY  DEFENDING 

the  frontiers  of  His  Native  State, 

SERVED  UNDER  GEN.  JOHNSON 

against  the 

FRENCH  AND  INDIANS, 

and  Nobly  Fell  Near  this  Spot 
in  the  Bloody  Conflict  of 
September  8,  1755, 
in  the  42d  year 


132 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


The  monument  tells  its  own  story,  and  it  is  only  necessary 
to  add  that  Colonel  Williams  was  the  founder  of  the  college 
which  bears  his  name  at  Williamstown,  Mass.,  and  that  the 
monument  was  erected  by  the  students  in  1854,  to  perpetuate 
the  memory  of  a good  man  and  a brave  soldier.  All  this  section 
of  country  has  been  the  theatre  of  conflict  from  the  first  white 
occupation  down  to  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  and  soon  we 
come  in  sight  of  a lovely  little  pond,  now  shaded  by  bending 
trees,  and  dotted  with  snowy  lilies,  which  bears  the  strangely 
inappropriate  name,  as  it  now  seems,  of  Bloody  Pond.  Its 
name  is  derived  from  one  of  those  sanguinary  surprises  of 
the  “ old  French  war,”  when  a party  of  the  French,  cooking 
heir  supper  around  this  little  lakelet,  were  ambuscaded  by  the 
English  and  slaughtered  in  such  numbers  that  their  blood  is 
said  to  have  tinged  the  water  red.  Soon  after,  we  gain  our 
first  views  of  the  “ Horicon  Water,”  gleaming  through  the 
trees  like  a gem  of  lapis  lazuli,  set  in  tlie  emerald  of  the  foli- 
age. From  this  point  the  road  winds  around  the  hillside  and 
down. to  the  lake,  and  we  see  the  white  houses  of  Caldwell 
almost  at  our  feet,  and  ‘‘  catch  the  gleam  of  a passing  sad  ” 
or  the  puff  of  fleecy  smoke  from  one  of  the  little  steamers 
that  ply  on  the  lake.  In  a few  moments  we  turn  up  a grav- 
elled driveway  and  alight  upon  the  long  piazza  of  the  Fort 
William  Henry  Hotel.  Lake  George  is  before  us,  and  the 
mountains  behind  and  about  us. 


CHAPTER  F. 

Lake  George  and  its  Beauties. 


AKE  GEORGE,  loveliest  of  inland 
waters,  no  wonder  the  red  man  named 
thee  Horicon,  “ Silver  Water,” 
~ or  that  the  pious  French  mis- 

sionaries, the  first  white  discov- 
erers, called  thee  Lac 
du  St.  Sacrament,  so 
pure,  so  clear,  so  bril- 
liant are  thy  waters! 
Of  all  the  liquid  jewels 
shining  on  the  earth’s 
brow,  thou  art  the 
fairest  and  the  bright- 
est! Romance,  tradi- 
tion, and  history,  com- 
bine to  invest  thee  with  a poetic  charm  ! Hither  for  yeares  th 
tide  of  summer  travel  has  tended,  and  here  the  pilgrim,  seeking 
what  is  fairest  and  sweetest  in  Nature,  is  content  to  abide,  sure 
that  nothing  can  surpass  the  beauties  around  him.  Lake 


134 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


George  lies  in  a valley  whose  lower  outlet  is  far  at  the  north, 
whose  walls  are  mountains,  and  whose  charms  have  been  the 
inspiration  of  poets  and  painters  for  a century.  This  lovely 
body  of  water  lies  about  300  feet  above  the  sea  level,  and 
stretches  thirty-five  miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south,  with 
a varying  width  of  from  one  to  four  miles.  It  is  supplied  by 
springs  and  mountain  brooks,  and  hence  its  waters  are  clear 
as  crystal  and  cold  as  the  snows  of  Lebanon.  Its  shores  are 
dotted  with  the  villas  of  wealthy  summer  residents,  and  its 
surface  studded  with  verdant  islets,  most  of  which  are  crowned 
with  tasteful  and  romantic  cottages.  Caldwell,  at  its  head,  or 
southern  extremity,  is  a little  hamlet  whose  chief  industry  is 
the  reception  and  accommodation  of  summer  visitors,  and 
which  is  largely  composed  of  hotels,  the  Fort  William  Henry, 
the  Lake  House,  the  Harris  and  the  Central,  while  just  across 
the  Lake,  embowered  in  trees,  stands  Crosbyside,  on  a beau- 
tiful slope  — a quiet  and  unexceptionable  retreat.  The  Fort 
William  Henry  Hotel,  from  whose  broad  piazzas  and  tasteful 
grounds  a splendid  view  of  the  watery  expanse  is  gained, 
is  one  of  the  most  famous,  most  elegant  and  most 
fashionable  of  watering  place  resorts.  It  is  from  four  to  six 
stories  high,  crowned  with  a Mansard  roof  and  two  lofty  Re- 
naissance domes,  and  fronts  334  feet  on  the  lake  side.  A 
piazza  twenty-five  feet  wide,  and  shaded  by  a roof  supported 
on  columns  thirty  feet  high,  extends  along  the  entire  front, 
and  here  of  a summer’s  day  or  evening,  a bewildering  array 
of  dainty  feminine  toilettes  and  astonishing  masculine  finery 
is  spread  out  to  view.  Of  course,  the  animated  contents  of 
the  garments  aforesaid  are  but  a secondary  consideration,  but 
if  one  cares  to  examine  closely,  he  will  find  that  they  comprise 
in  no  small  proportion  the  elite  of  metropolitan  society.  In 
the  evening  the  blaze  of  light  from  the  halls,  parlors  and  the 
central  office,  is  enough  to  dazzle  one ; but  the  gas  jets  are 
eclipsed  in  splendor  by  the  flashing  radiance  of  the  diamonds 
worn  by  the  lady  guests.  Strains  of  delicious  music  float  out 
through  the  open  windows,  and  within,  the  whirl  of  lithe 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK,  135 

forms  and  the  shimmering  of  silks  and  fleecy  fabrics  in  the 
dreamy  waltz  makes  up  a scene  of  gayety  which  is  hardly 
matched  even  at  Saratoga.  In  the  grand  dining  hall,  bril- 
liant with  table  ware,  glass  and  silver,  the  dusky  cohorts 
wheel  and  deploy  in  never  ceasing  action,  obedient  to  the 
wish  of  the  guest  and  the  rules  of  that  mighty  potentate,  the 
head  waiter,  seemingly  engaged  in  a never-ending  endeavor 
to  supply  a never- satisfied  demand  for  Lake  George  trout, 
with  fried  potatoes  and  coffee.”  Above,  are  rooms  for  900 
guests,  and  rarely,  during  the  season,  are  the  accommodations 
sufficient  for  the  crowd  of  visitors.  From  the  front  of  the 
house,  elegant  and  tastefully  ornamented  grounds  slope  to 
the  water,  with  a plashing  fountain  in  the  centre,  making 
music  in  the  little  basin,  on  which  snowy  swans  float  to  and 
fro.  Broad  gravelled  walks  radiate  in  every  direction,  and  the 
dark  shrubbery  is  lit  up  at  night  by  the  radiance  of  gas  lamps 
conveniently  disposed.  The  ruling  spirit  of  this  great  cara- 
vanserai is  Mr.  Roessle,  who  with  his  sons  have  been  the 
proprietors  since  1868,  and  who  has  made  his  name  synony- 
mous with  the  highest  luxury  and  elegance  of  which  a hotel  is 
capable.  There  are  many  points  of  interest  in  the  vicinity; 
visits  to  the  ruins  of  Forts  Williams  Henry  and  George,  the 
ride  to  the  Healing  Springs,  and  that  up  Prospect  Mountain 
being  the  favorite  trips;  but  the  enjoyment  best  of  all  is 
found  in  the  sail  down  the  Lake. 

A Trip  Down  the  Lake. 

From  the  landing  at  the  water-side,  the  little  steamer  Min- 
nehaha steams  daily  to  the  foot  of  the  lake  and  back,  and 
many  tourists  avail  themselves  of  the  opportunity  to  spend  a 
delightful  day  in  the  round  trip.  Swinging  out  from  the 
little  wharf,  the  vessel  glides  out  into  the  lake,  with  French 
Mountain  looming  grandly  on  the  right,  and  Rattlesnake 
Cobble  frowning  behind  us.  We  pass  Tea  Island,  about  a 
mile  from  our  starting  point,  a small,  wooded  islet  near  the 


136 


TOt/RISTS*  HANDBOOJC. 


west  shore,  with  a rustic  cottage,  and  memories  of  a “tea- 
house” kept  there  years  ago  for  the  regalement  of  visitors. 
Diamond  Island,  a mile  and  a half  further,  lies  on  our  right 
hand,  and  derived  its  name  from  the  quantities  of  quartz  cry- 
tals  formerly  found  here.  In  1777,  Burgoyne  fortified  it  as  a 
military  post,  and  the  same  year  it  was  the ' scene  of  an  en- 
counter with  the  Americans.  A mile  further,  on  the  left  bank, 
stands  the  Coolidge  House,  a quiet,  pleasant  resort,  much 
sought  by  fishermen,  who  find  in  its  vicinity  some  of  the  finest 
fishing  on  the  lake.  Nearly  opposite,  out  in  the  lake,  lie  the 
Three  Sisters,  and  still  further  east  Long  Island,  the  largest 
in  Lake  George,  extending  about  a mile  North  and  South, 
and  affording  room  for  a fine  farm  on  its  surface.  A steam- 
boat dock  extends  from  the  east  side,  and  after  touching  here, 
we  round  the  northern  end  of  the  island,  and  bear  westerly  to 
Bolton.  On  our  right,  the  lofty,  rugged  Buck  Mountain 
towers  2000  feet  above  us,  and  just  south  of  it  is  Pilot  Moun- 
tain, only  less  lofty.  Before  reaching  Bolton,  we  pass  Dome 
Island,  the  loftiest  and  one  ot  the  largest  in  the  lake,  oval  in 
form,  and  sufficiently  dome-shaped  to  justify  its  name.  We 
next  pass  Recluse  Island,  owned  by  Rufus  Wattles  of  New 
York,  and  one  of  the  loveliest  gems  ou  the  bosom  of  the  lake. 
It  is  handsomely  wooded,  and  bears  a tasteful  cottage,  with 
outlying  pavilions,  summer  houses,  and  a graceful  bridge 
connects  it  with  the  tiny  Sloop  Island  on  the  ea-t.  Recluse 
Island  became  famous  in  1868  by  a newspaper  hoax,  which 
represented  it  sunk  by  an  earthquake— a statement  which 
proved  “ not  sufficiently  materialized.” 

Bolton,  ten  miles  from  Caldwell,  is  the  second  village  in 
size  upon  Lake  George,  and  pos.-^esses  three  excellent  hotels, 
the  Mohican,  the  Bolton  and  the  Wells  Houses,  all  chiefly 
patronized  by  season  boarders.  Its  site  is  deeply  embayed, 
and  its  view  down  the  lake  includes  the  Narrows,  formed  by 
Tongue  Mountain  on  the  left  and  Shelving  Point  on  the  right ; 
and  Northwest  Bay,  a considerable  indentation  of  the  west 
shore  formed  by  the  projection  of  Tongue  Mountain.  Bol- 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


137 


ton  presents  a most  romantic  appearance  from  the  water,  the 
many  beautiful  cottages,  the  shaded  grounds,  and  the  pretty 
little  church  of  St.  Sacrament,  built  by  the  exertions  of  a 
young  daughter  of  Mr.  Thieviot,  giving  it  the  aspect  of  one 
of  those  picturesque  French  villages  which  painters  delight 
to  put  on  canvass.  Tongue  Mountain  to  the  north,  already 
mentioned,  is  a beautiful  and  shapely  elevation,  whose  con- 
tour indicates  the  derivation  of  its  name.  Green  Island,  near 
the  Bolton  shore,  is  about  half  a mile  long,  and  is  a beautiful 
spot,  and  Crown  Island  near  by  is  one  of  the  gems  of  nature. 
From  Bolton  our  course  is  nearly  east,' to  Fourteen  Mile  Isl- 
and, at  the  extreme  point  of  Shelving  Rock,  which  forms  the 
right  wall  of  the  Narrows.  These  Narrows  are  among  the 
most  lovely  of  the  features  of  Lake  George.  Here  the  shores 
are  less  than  a mile  apart,  and  so  far  do  the  lofty  banks  over- 
lap each  other,  and  so  full  is  the  course  of  islands,  that  from 
the  steamer  it  looks  as  if  the  lake  ended  here.  But  we  touch 
at  the  little  pier  of  Fourteen  Mile  Island,  12  miles  from  Cald- 
well, and  a favorite  resort  for  artists  and  gentlemen  of  a pisca- 
torial turn  of  mind,  and  swinging  out  again  see  clear  water 
beyond.  The  view  through  the  Narrows  during  the  chang- 
ing moods  of  a summer  afternoon,  and  especially  during  a 
summer  shower,  is  inexpressibly  grand.  The  lofty  peaks  on 
either  hand  clothed  in  purple  mists,  the  rolling  vapors  which 
curl  around  their  rugged  sides,  the  drifting  clouds  which  now 
and  then  eclipse  their  summits,  and  above  all,  the  sunshine 
breaking  through  the  rifts  and  glorifying  the  scene — all  make 
up  a picture  which  would  drive  an  artist  frantic  with  the 
knowledge  of  his  inability  to  reproduce  it  on  canvass.  Laying 
our  course  nearly  due  north  from  Fourteen  Mile  Island,  we 
are  soon  passing  Black  Mountain,  the  highest  on  the  lake, 
being  nearly  3000  feet  in  height.  Its  sides  are  clothed  in 
dense  woods,  two-thirds  its  height,  and  above,  the  bare-bleak 
rocks  tower  into  the  clouds.  It  is  often  ascended  with  the 
aid  of  guides,  and  from  its  summit  in  a clear  day,  views  of 
the  entire  lake  and  the  surrounding  country  are  gained.  Next 


138  TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 

beyond  is  Sugar  Loaf,  a spur  of  Black  Mountain  and  a rude, 
lofty  mass  of  rock.  In  the  lake  are  the  Harbor  Islands,  the 
scene  of  a fierce  battle  in  1757,  in  which  some  300  or  400  Eng- 
lish were  worsted  by  a band  of  Montcalm’s  Indian  allies. 
Deer’s  Leap  Mountain  is  on  the  west  bank,  and  gains  its 
name  from  the  fact  that  a deer,  pursued  by  hunters  and 
hounds  “ took  a header”  off  the  beetling  precipice,  and  was 
impaled  on  a sharp  tree  top  below.  On  the  right  shore,  in  a 
smooth  hollow,  sloping  down  to  the  beautiful  Bosom  Bay, 
nestles  the  little  hamlet  of  Dresden,  which  is  reached  from 
Hulett’s  Landing  on  the  point  south  of  the  bay.  Again 
striking  across  the  lake  to  the  west  shore,  we  pass  Sabbath 
Day  Point,  a bold  projection,  tradition  says  named  because 
Abercrombie  halted  his  troops  here  over  Sunday,  on  their 
way  to  attack  Ticonderoga.  Prosaic  history  destroys  the  ro- 
mance of  this  story  by  insisting  that  Abercrombie  landed 
here  on  a Wednesday,  and  leaves  the  origin  of  the  name  still 
in  the  dark.  Bluff  Head  is  the  point  on  the  right  shore,  op- 
posite Sabbath  Day  Point,  and  the  long  ridge  back  of  it  is 
called  Spruce  Mountain.  Six  miles  north  of  Sabbath  Day 
Point,  and  twenty-eight  from  Caldwell,  at  the  head  of  a semi- 
circular bay,  lies  the  village  of  Hague,  with  its  Phoenix  Hotel 
and  its  fine  fishing  grounds  in  the  broad  lake.  Just  above  is 
Friend’s  Point,  off  which  lies  Waltonian  Isle,  named  from  a 
party  which  formerly  camped  there.  On  the  east  shore, 
thirty  miles  from  Caldwell,  is  a huge  projecting  hill,  known 
as  Anthony’s  Nose,  off  which  the  water  is  said  to  be  the  deep- 
est of  any  in  Lake  George.  Two  miles  further  down,  on  the 
west  shore,  is  Rogers’s  Slide,  a smooth,  nearly  perpendicular 
wall  of  rock,  400  feet  high,  whose  base  is  in  the  lake  bottom. 
The  story  whence  its  name  is  derived  is  that  in  the  winter  of 
1758  Major  Rogers,  who  commanded  a company  of  Colonial 
soldiers,  was  scouting  near  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  and  was 
discovered  and  pursued  by  tbe  Indians.  He  came  to  the  high 
bluff,  near  the  summit  of  the  slide,  and  made  his  way  down 
to  the  upper  edge  of  the  inclined  plane ; here  he  unfastened 


TO  UR  IS  TS^  HA  NDBOOK. 


139 


his  snow-shoes,  turned  about  in  them,  and  with  his  toes  to- 
wards the  heels  of  his  shoes,  walked  away  from  the  rock, 
took  a circuit  down  to  the  ice,  and  made  his  escape  to  Fort 
George.  The  Indians  came  to  the  top  of  the  rock,  and,  see- 
ing apparently  the  tracks  of  two  persons  directed  towards  the 
lake,  they  supposed  that  two  men  must  have  slid  down  the 
rock ; this  belief  was  strengthened  by  the  sight  of  the  major 
running  across  the  ice.  The  Indians  were  filled  with  wonder 
that  any  man  could  go  down  this  long  and  steep  descent, 
and  find  himself  alive  afterward;  and  they  felt  sure  the  major 
must  have  been  under  the  protection  of  the  Great  Spirit,  and 
dared  not  further  molest  one  who  had  defied  such  danger. 
There  seems  to  be  no  authority  for  the  story,  but  Rogers  was 
noted  for  his  “ Munchausen  yarns,”  and  very  likely  he  told 
it.  From  this  point  the  banks  grow  lower  and  less  pictu- 
resque, the  water  shoals,  and  we  approach  the  foot  of  the 
lake.  Prisoner's  Island,  near  the  west  shore,  is  so  called  from 
a tradition  that  in  1758,  Abercrombie  confined  a lot  of  French 
prisoners  on  this  island,  whence  they  escaped  by  wading 
ashore.  But  while  we  are  pondering  on  this  remarkable 
statement,  the  boat  nears  the  dock,  a few  bumps,  a grating 
against  the  timbers,  and  we  are  fast  to  the  pier,  near  which 
the  cars  are  waiting  to  convey  us  to  Lake  Champlain. 

The  Geology  and  History  of  Lake  George. 

Where  Lake  George  now  reposes  was  once  a valley,  bounded 
by  low  hills  of  the  primitive  limestone  rock,  but  the  “drift 
period  ” of  the  geologists  fiooded  the  valley  with  a mighty 
deluge,  and  covered  hill  and  dale  with  gravel,  sand  and  soil. 
The  fiood  passed,  and  the  lake  fell  to  its  present  level,  the 
islands  and  hilly  banks  emerging  clothed  with  soil,  and  the 
bed  of  the  lake  being  covered  with  snow  white  sand.  The 
water  is  of  remarkable  purity,  so  that  objects  can  be  seen  at  a 
great  depth.  Travellers  liken  Lake  George  to  Loch  Katrine 
in  Scotland.  The  region  around  the  lake,  has  been  harried 
by  the  movements  of  hostile  armies,  until  nearly  every  point 


140 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


bears  some  historic  or  legendary  repute.  Even  the  islands 
were  the  home  of  brave  and  daring  rangers,  and  some  of 
them  were  even  fortified,  attacked,  defended  and  captured,  as 
military  posts.  Caldwell  stands  near  the  site  of  Fort  Wil- 
liam Henry,  which  was  erected  by  Gen.  Johnson  in  1755,  after 
the  battle  near  Bloody  Pond  already  referred  to.  It  was  at 
this  fort,  in  1757,  that  the  Indian  allies  of  the  French  marquis, 
Montcalm,  fell  upon  the  English,  who  had  surrendered  them- 
selves to  the  French  as  prisoners  of  war,  and  murdered  in 
cold  blood  or  carried  away  captive  fifteen  hundred  men.  The 
ruins  of  Fort  George  are  about  a mile  south-east  from  the 
Fort  William  Henry  Hotel.  All  that  is  now  left  of  the  old 
fort  is  the  ruins  of  the  rectangular  citadel  that  was  built  in- 
side of  the  breastworks.  A part  of  the  old  wall,  nearly  twenty 
feet  high  is  standing. 

In  1609,  Champlain  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  and  crossed 
the  lake  with  which  his  name  is  ever  since  associated,  to  a 
point  near  the  present  site  of  Ticonderoga.  His  Indian  com- 
panions described  Lake  George  to  him  but  he  never  entered 
it.  The  first  white  man  probably  who  saw  the  lake,  was 
Father  Jogues,  the  Jesuit  missionary,  who  in  May,  1846,  attend- 
ed by  Jean  Bourdon,  the  engineer,  of  Qiiebec,  arrived  at  the 
outlet  of  the  lake,  on  the  eve  of  the  festival  of  Corpus  Christi, 
and  in  honor  of  the  day  gave  the  water  the  name  of  Lac  du 
Sacrement,  or  Lake  of  the  Blessed  Sacrament.  During  the 
twenty  years  succeeding,  visits  were  made  to  Lake  St.  Sacra- 
ment by  the  French  from  Canada,  and  in  1691  Major  John 
Schuyler  left  Albany  with  a force  which  scouted  up  and  down 
the  lake.  During  Queen  Anne’s  war,  from  1702  to  1713,  the 
lake  was  used  as  the  route  to  Canada,  as  was  also  the  case 
during  the  war  of  1745 — 1760,  when  the  peaceful  quiet  of  its 
woods  and  waters  was  often  broken  by  the  rude  shock  of 
battle.  In  1755  the  battles  near  Williams  Rock,  in  which 
Colonel  Ephraim  Williams  and  the  old  Mohawk  Chief  Hen- 
drick were  killed ; the  repulse  of  the  French  from  Johnson’s 
camp,  near  the  subsequent  site  of  Fort  George,  and  the  rout 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


I4I 

and  destruction  of  the  French  force  at  Bloody  Pond  followed 
in  rapid  succession,  and  during  the  entire  war,  Lake  George 
was  the  scene  of  carnage  and  disorder.  The  story  of  the 
siege  of  Fort  William  Henry  and  of  the  various  battles  on 
the  lake,  can  be  found  in  any  history  of  this  country.  About 
1770,  peace  having  been  restored,  settlers  began  to  locate  on 
the  shores  of  Lake  George,  and  Forts  George  and  Ticonderoga 
were  substantially  deserted  and  fast  going  to  decay.  In  1775 
the  Revolutionary  excitement  began  to  be  felt  about  Lake 
George,  and  the  capture  of  Ticonderoga  by  Ethan  Allen  gave 
the  possession  of  the  whole  section  into  the  hands  of  the 
colonists.  With  these  events  the  military  history  of  the  lake 
ceases. 


Ticonderoga  and  the  Road  to  Lake  Champlain. 

But  while  we  have  thus  been  reminiscently  engaged,  the 
train  has  been  waiting  for  us  on  the  dock  beside  us,  to  convey 
us  to  Lake  Champlain.  Up  to  the  fall  of  1874,  the  trip  was 
made  on  Baldwin’s  stages,  and  one  of  the  events  of  the  jour- 
ney was  the  oration  delivered  by  the  proprietor,  who  always 
accompanied  them,  on  reaching  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Ti. 
But  now,  a branch  railroad  from  the  New  York  and  Canada, 
which  IS  slowly  eating  its  way  through  the  lime-stone  cliffs 
on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  which  passes  by  a 
tunnel  underneath  the  promontory  on  which  stand  the  ruins 
of  the  old  fort,  conveys  us  in  a few  moments  from  the  land- 
ing, a few  rods  above  the  old  dock  at  the  foot  of  Lake  George, 
along  the  outlet  to  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  beneath 
Mount  Defiance. 

The  outlet  of  Lake  George  is  by  a small  river  or  large 
creek,  which  describes  almost  a horse  shoe  curve,  and  falls 
240  feet  in  its  course  of  four  miles.  The  Indians  called  it 
Cheonderoga  or  “ Sounding  Water,”  from  its  perpetual  music, 
and  the  present  name  Ticonderoga  is  but  a colonial  corruption 


RUINS  OF  “OLD  FORT  TI, 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


M3 


thereof.  The  French  settlers  called  it  Carillon,  meaning  a 
chime,  from  the  same  cause.  The  course  of  the  creek  is  bro- 
ken by  two  considerable  falls,  and  by  almost  continuous 
rapids.  Our  road  follows  the  left  bank  of  the  stream  quite 
closely  for  a few  rods,  then  crosses  the  creek  and  passes 
through  the  little  village  of  Ticonderoga  which  lies  near  the 
lower  falls.  Then  we  continue  along  the  stream,  round  by  a 
sweeping  curve  to  the  right  the  base  of  the  hill,  which  expands 
into  the  lofty  eminence  known  as  Mount  Defiance,  and  bring 
up  at  the  dock  on  Lake  Champlain.  Just  across  the  bay  into 
which  the  “ outlet”  widens,  stands  the  Ticonderoga  of  history. 
We  may  if  we  choose,  ascend  Mount  Defiance,  and  from  its 
summit  gain  a wide  and  interesting  view  of  the  points  so  re. 
nowned  in  the  old  wars  which  were  waged  in  this  vicinity. 

Historical  and  Descriptive. 

Ticonderoga  as  we  have  seen,  is  an  elevated  point  of  land, 
with  water  on  three  sides,  and  is  well  adapted  for  defense. 
The  first  fortification  was  built  in  1691  by  Colonel  Philip 
Schuyler,  when  he  was  on  his  way  to  attack  the  French  at 
Laprairie.  In  1755,  the  French  works  begun  25  j'ears  before 
at  Crown  Point  being  still  weak  and  insufficient,  Montcalm 
decided  to  build  a new  fort  at  Carillon,  and  up  to  1759  the 
construction  of  works  on  this  peninsula  was  actively  pushed 
by  the  French.  In  the  last  named  year  they  were  evacuated 
and  partially  blown  up,  and  Colonel  Eyre  planned  a new 
work,  but  it  was  never  completed,  and  in  1773  the  fort  was  in 
a ruinous  condition.  May  10,  1775,  Ethan  Allen,  Benedict 
Arnold,  and  85  Vermont  and  Massachusetts  men  surprised 
and  captured  the  fort,  which  they  held  till  July.  In  that 
month,  the  British  having  erected  batteries  on  Mount  Defi- 
ance, General  St.  Clair  was  forced  to  evacuate  the  position, 
and  Ticonderoga  again  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  British. 
In  1777,  after  Burgoyne’s  defeat,  it  was  dismantled,  and  though 
the  British  again  occupied  the  position  in  1780,  it  never  be- 
came of  value  as  a fortress.  After  the  Revolution,  the  work 


144 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


were  allowed  to  crumble  and  decay,  and  now  the  fortifications 
built  at  such  fabulous  expense  are  but  a collection  of  pictu- 
resque ruins.  The  illustration  conveys  a better  impression 
than  can  any  description  of  their  appearance.  The  outlines 
of  the  walls  and  ramparts  can  be  traced,  the  walls  of  the  offi- 
cers’ quarters  are  still  comparatively  sound,  and . a vaulted 
chamber,  variously  called  the  bakery  or  the  powder-magazine, 
is  still  a-ccessible.  But  when  it  is  remembered  that  up  to  a 
few  years  ago,  the  cut  stone  and  brick  of  the  fortifications 
and  barracks  were  carried  away  by  the  vessel-load,  to  build 
new  villages  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Champlain,  it  is  easy  to 
see  that  only  the  most  vivid  imagination  can  reconstruct  any 
considerable  portion  of  “ Old  Fort  Ti.” 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  J ourney  down  Lake  Champlain. 

OR  beauty  of  scenery,  Lake 
Champlain  is  little,  if  at  all, 
inferior  to  Lake  George. 
Everything  is  on  a larger 
scale,  and  though  there  is 
nothing  to  compare  with  the 
lovely  views  through  the 
Narrows  or  among  the  isl- 
ands of  the  smaller  lake, 
there  is  more  of  grandeur 
and  expansiveness,  and  the 
combinations  of  mountain 
and  water  view  afforded  at 
various  points  on  Lake 
Champlain  are  among  the 
finest  of  American  natural 
pictures. 

This  lake,  discovered  and 
named  in  1609  by  Samuel  de  Champlain,  lies  between  the 
States  of  Vermont  and  New  York,  and  has  a length  of  130 
miles  from  Whitehall  at  the  southern  extremity,  to  its  north- 
ern outlet.  It  varies  in  breadth  from  half  a mile  to  ten  miles, 
and  in  depth  irom  50  to  280  feet.  Among  the  rivers  that  flow 
into  it  are  the  Chazy,  Saranac,  Ausable,  and  Boquet  on  the 
7 


146 


TO  URIS  rs’  HA  ND  B O OK. 


west ; the  Winooski  and  Missisquoi  on  the  east.  The  lake  dis- 
charges into  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  through  a river  known  b;) 
various  names,  as  the  Sorel,  St.  Johns,  or  more  generally  the 
Richelieu.  The  first  forty  miles  of  the  passage  northward 
from  Whitehall  is  more  like  a ride  upon  a river  than  a lake, 
as  in  this  portion  it  often  narrows  to  less  than  half  a mile  in 
width,  and  in  some  places  to  fifty  or  sixty  rods.  The  boat 
glides  over  the  even  surface  of  the  lake;  the  woods,  hillsides, 
and  farmhouses  are  in  full  view ; a fresh,  balmy  air  floats  from 
the  pastures  and  hilltops  to  the  waters  of  the  lake ; there  is 
none  of  the  monotony  of  a sea  voyage,  none  of  the  pitching 
and  tossing  experienced  on  the  great  western  lakes,  but  per- 
fect comfort,  easy  motion,  reviving  .air,  constant  changes  of 
view,  and  most  enchanting  scenery.  All  these  make  a sail 
from  Whitehall  to  Ticonderoga  more  like  the  motions  of 
fairies  wafted  through  realms  of  beauty,  than  the  ordinary  lo- 
comotion of  mortal  men.  South  Bay  is  on  the  west  side  of 
the  lake,  about  one  mile  from  Whitehall  Landing;  and  near 
here,  at  a bend  in  the  lake,  known  as  the  “Elbow,”  is  “Put’s 
Rock,”  where  Major  Putnam  with  a small  body  of  men  opened 
fire  upon  five  hundred  Indians  who  were  in  their  canoes  upon 
the  lake,  a few  days  before  Putnam  was  taken  prisoner  at 
Fort  Ann.  Arriving  opposite  the  outlet  of  Lake  George,  we 
shall  see  on  our  left  and  towering  above  us.  Mount  Defiance, 
still  crowned  with  the  remains  of  the  works  erected  by  Bur- 
goyne  in  1777,  and  beyond,  across  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  the 
promontory  and  ruins  of  Ticonderoga.  On  the  other  shore 
of  the  lake,  to  our  right,  stands  Mount  Independence, 
where,  in  1777,  St.  Clair  had  works  connected  by  a pontoon 
bridge  with  the  main  position  at  Ticonderoga.  In  a moment 
we  land  at  the  little  pier  beneath  Mount  Defiance,  and  receive 
on  board  the  passengers  from  Lake  George.  Proceeding 
north  from  Ticonderoga,  the  Lake  gradually  spreads  out  and 
becomes  wider,  and  the  scenery  increases  in  grandeur.  To 
the  right  we  have  constantly  before  us  the  green  hills  of  Ver- 
mont, surmounted  by  the  lofty  bulk  of  Mount  Mansfield;  to 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


147 


the  left,  the  rugged  shores  of  New  York,  with  the  purple 
peaks  of  the  Adirondacks  in  the  distance,  and  before  us  the 
blue  waters  of  the  lake,  studded  with  emerald  isles.  Twelve 
miles  above  Ticonderoga  the  lake  narrows  again,  the  shores 
of  Addison  closing  in  on  the  right,  while  Crown  Point  pro- 
jects from  the  left,  leaving  only  half  a mile  of  clear  water  be- 
tween. But  on  rounding  Crown  Point,  the  great  Bulwagga 
Bay  widens  to  the  left,  at  the  head  of  which  is  Port  Henry,  a 
landing  place  for  the  steamers,  whence  the  Crown  Point  of 
history  is  visited. 

Crown  Point  and  Its  History. 

The  importance  of  this  point  to  the  control  of  the  lake  was 
early  recognized  by  the  French,  and  in  1731  the  first  work, 
a pentagonal  star-fort,  with  bastioned  angles,  was  erected  here 
and  named  Fort  St.  Frederic,  in  honor  of  Frederic  Maurepas, 
the  premier  of  France.  The  outer  wall  of  limestone  enclosed 
barracks,  a church,  and  a bomb-proof  tower.  The  French 
designed  to  establish  here  a province  to  be  attached  to  the 
Canadian  domain,  with  Point  de  la  Couronne  as  its  capital. 
In  1759,  after  Lord  Amherst  captured  Ticonderoga,  the  French 
peaceably  abandoned  Fort  St.  Frederic,  which  had  become  un- 
tenable, and  Amherst  began  here  the  construction  of  a first- 
class  fortress,  which  eventually  cost  the  British  government 
ten  millions  of  dollars.  By  a fire  in  1773,  the  works  were 
seriously  damaged,  and  two  years  later,  with  their  armament 
of  1 14  guns,  they  fell  into  the  hands  of  Warner  and  his 
“ Green  Mountain  Boys.”  The  next  year,  the  Americans,  re- 
treating from  the  disastrous  attack  on  Quebec,  wintered  here, 
and  in  1777  Burgoyne  made  this  his  depot  of  supplies.  The 
peninsula  is  a mile  wide,  and  is  a solid  mass  of  limestone, 
thinly  covered  with  earth,  and  the  remains  of  the  works  still 
extant,  show  that  they  must  have  been  of  wonderful  extent 
and  strength.  The  ramparts  were  half  a mile  in  extent,  25 
feet  high  and  of  the  same  thickness,  with  bastions,  ditches, 
curtains  and  glacis  outside,  and  enclosed  a broad  parade  and 


148 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


massive  stone  barracks,  whose  walls  still  stand.  A covered 
way  led  from  the  northeast  angle  to  the  edge  of  the  lake, 
where  a well  ninety  feet  deep  and  eight  in  diameter  is  cut  in 
the  solid  rock.  The  ruined  ramparts  are  now  covered  with 
thorn  apple  bushes,  of  a kind  peculiar  to  this  spot  alone,  and 
said  to  have  been  brought  from  France,  which  in  their  season 
are  aflame  with  crimson  fruit.  The  ruins  of  the  old  French 
Fort,  St.  Frederic,  stand  on  the  steep  precipice  overlooking 
the  lake,  and  200  yards  northeast  of  the  newer  British  works. 
Near  at  hand  are  the  remains  of  the  French  settlement,  which 
history  and  tradition  inform  us,  was  at  one  time  a village  of 
1500  inhabitants,  with  stores,  paved  streets,  gardens  and  vine- 
yards. 

Opposite  Crown  Point  is  Chimney  Point,  where  the  French, 
in  1631,  made  their  first  settlement  in  this  vicinity,  just  100 
years  before  they  began  to  fortify  Crown  Point.  They  named 
it  Point  de  la  Chevelure.  Fort  Henry,  at  the  mouth  of 
Bulwagga  Bay,  north  from  Crown  Point,  is  noted  for  its  ex- 
pensive iron  works,  the  supplies  of  which  come  from  the  vast 
deposits  of  magnetic  ore  in  the  mountains  to  the  northwest. 

Down  the  Lake  to  Burlington. 

From  this  point  northward,  we  keep  the  green  shores  in 
view  on  either  hand,  with  the  mountain  ranges  for  back- 
ground, and  soon  turn  into  Northwest  Bay,  on  the  New  York 
shore,  where  we  land  at  the  little  town  of  Westport,  whence 
stages  run  to  Elizabethtown,  Keene  and  the  Saranac  Lakes. 
Vergennes  is  soon  visible  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  seven 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  Otter  Creek,  which  here  empties  into 
the  lake.  This  town  has  special  advantages  for  shipbuilding; 
and  here  the  flotilla  was  built  and  equipped,  which  captured 
the  British  fleet  at  Plattsburg.  Thirty  miles  north  of  Crown 
Point,  on  the  west  of  the  lake,  is  a geological  curiosity  known 
as  Split  Rock.  Near  the  light-house  a point  runs  out  into  the 
lake,  at  the  end  of  which  there  is  an  island  of  half  an  acre  or 
more  in  extent,  separated  from  the  main  land  by  a fissure 


TOURISTS^  //AND BOOK, 


149 


fifteen  feet  wide.  The  water  flows  through  this  fissure ; and 
in  it  soundings  have  been  made  five  hundred  feet  without 
finding  bottom.  Several  theories  have,  been  broached  to 
account  for  this  formation,  but  none  of  them  are  perfectly 
conclusive.  Just  above  Split  Rock,  is  Essex,  a pleasant  vil- 
lage on  the  west  shore.  At  this  point  the  lake  grows  wider, 
giving  greater  room  for  navigation;  and  eight  or  ten  miles 
above  Split  Rock  the  lake  is  five  miles  wide.  At  the  town  of 
Willsborough,  eight  miles  north  of  Split  Rock,  is  the  mouth 
of  Boquet  River,  a stream  which  rises  in  the  Adirondack 
Mountains,  and  is  the  outlet  of  some  of  the  most  attractive 
ponds  found  in  that  range.  Our  course  bears  hence  to  the 
eastward,  and  soon  we  see  Shelburne  Bay,  on  the  Vermont 
shore,  the  winter  quarters  and  ship-yard  of  the  Champlain 
steamboats.  And  just  here  is  a favorable  point  to  say  some- 
thing about  these  steamers.  One  would  scarcely  expect  to 
find  on  this  little  inland  sea,  boats  comparing  favorably  as  to 
size,  speed  and  luxury,  with  the  floating  palaces  of  the  Hudson 
River,  or  Long  Island  Sound  ; yet  such  is  the  case.  The  boats 
Vermont,  Adirondack  and  Champlain,  with  their  handsome 
saloons,  their  sumptuous  tables,  their  uniformed  officers  and 
crews,  their  broad  expanse  of  open  deck  with  armies  of  cane- 
seat  chairs,  their  comfortable  and  nicely  furnished  state 
rooms,  and  their  elegantly  carpeted  and  richly  furnished 
saloons,  would  do  no  discredit  to  either  of  the  celebrated 
routes  named  above.  As  we  stand  across  the  widening  lake 
to  the  eastern  shore,  we  see  Rock  Dunder,  a sharp  cone, 
thirty  feet  high,  rising  abruptly  out  of  the  water.  It  is  related 
that  in  the  war  of  1812,  a British  man-of-war  fiercely  can- 
nonaded it,  suspecting  it  to  be  a Yankee  infernal  machine. 
Near  the  middle  of  the  lake  are  the  Four  Brothers  islands, 
called  by  the  French  Isles  des  Qiiatres  Vents,  and  soon  we 
see  the  houses  and  spires  of  Burlington,  at  the  head  of  the 
bay  of  tlie  same  name,  on  the  eastern  shore.  A liglithouse  on 
Juniper  Island,  and  a breakwater  that  protects  the  shipping  in 
the  harbor,  are  the  objects  that  are  passed  in  approaching 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


ISO 

the  landing,  and  the  first  thing  that  particularly  attracts  our 
attention  is  the  immense  quantity  of  lumber  piled  in  huge 
masses  along  the  wharves. 

The  City  of  Burlington. 

Burlington  is  the  largest  and  wealthiest  city  in  Vermont, 
and  is  often  called  the  Qj^ieen  City.  Its  location,  on  a long 
sloping  hill,  whose  foot  is  laved  by  Lake  Champlain,  gives  it 
a magnificent  outlook  upon  the  beautiful  water,  stretching 
ten  miles  in  width,  and  beyond  the  range  of  vision  north  and 
south.  From  the  west  windows  of  almost  any  building— so 
regular  is  the  rise  of  the  ground — a fine  view  is  gained,  but 
the  best  is  perhaps  from  the  dome  of  the  University  of  Ver- 
mont. This  institution,  one  mile  from  the  shores  of  the  bay, 
is  370  feet  above  its  level.  The  three  halls  of  the  University 
have  been  united  in  one  building,  surmounted  by  a tin  cov- 
ered dome.  The  panorama  presented  to  the  eye  from  this 
point  is  truly  wonderful,  Lake  Champlain,  the  Green  Moun- 
tains and  the  Adirondacks  being  in  sight,  and  over  sixty 
mountain  peaks  distincth"  visible.  Beautiful  drives  stretch 
away  in  ever)'  direction ; and  ihe  billowy  mountain  ridges, 
swelling  into  countless  pointed  waves,  and  scooped  into  deep 
hollows,  abound  on  every  side.  But  a short  distance  further 
inland,  in  the  rural  cemetery  overlooking  the  Winooski,  or 
Onion  River,  is  the  grave  of  Ethan  Allen.  The  marble  obe- 
lisk, supporting  a heroic  size  statue  of  Allen,  dedicated  July 
4,  1873,  bears  the  inscription  : 

THE 

CORPOREAL  PART 
OF 

GENERAL  ETHAN  ALLEN 

RESTS  BENEATH  THIS  STONE. 

THE  I2TH  DAY  OF  FEBRUARY,  1 789, 

AGED  50  YEARS. 

HIS  SPIRIT  TRIED  THE  MERCIES  OF  HIS  GOD, 

IN  WHOM  ALONE  HE  BELIEVED  AND  STRONGLY  TRUSTED. 


BURLINGTON 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


152 

A short  distance  bej^ond,  in  a deep  valley,  are  the  falls  of 
the  Winooski,  utilized  for  the  propulsion  of  flouring  mills, 
around  which  a lively  village  has  sprung  up.  These  falls  are 
very  romantic  and  striking,  and  in  high  water  quite  majestic 
in  their  proportions.  Mount  Mansfleld,  4279  feet  high,  lies  20 
miles  to  the  northeast  of  Burlington ; and  Camel’s  Hump, 
4183  feet,  the  same  distance  to  the  southeast.  Conveyances 
may  be  obtained  at  Burlington  for  both  these  mountains. 
High  Bridge,  Howard’s  Summit,  and  Point  Rock  Institute 
are  the  places  of  interest  which  all  travellers  who  can  spare 
the  time  want  to  see.  For  this  purpose  many  stop  over 
night,  and  get  a few  hours  in  the  morning  to  drive  about  the 
city  and  the  suburbs.  Excellent  accommodations  for  guests 
are  found  at  the  American  Hotel,  managed  by  Mr.  H.  H. 
Howe,  and  at  the  Van  Ness  House,  kept  by  Barber  & Co.,  a 
new  brick  structure  of  considerable  capacity  and  first  class  in 
its  accommodations. 

A Magnifi-cent  Lake  View. 

The  view  across  the  lake  at  sunset  from  either  of  these 
houses  is  worth  a journey  to  Burlington  in  itself.  The  sun 
sinking  below  the  misty  peaks  of  the  Adirondacks  in 
the  hazy  distance,  sheds  a golden  refulgence  across 
the  sparkling  expanse  of  intervening  water.  The  green 
islets  on  the  bosom  of  the  lake  are  illumined  till  they  gleam 
like  emeralds  in  the  warm  glow;  and  as  tjie  sunlight  fades 
out  and  the  darkness  slowly  settles  down,  the  scene  is  bathed 
in  an  ever-changing  radiance,  turning  from  gold  to  crimson, 
from  crimson  to  purple,  from  purple  to  violet,  and  from  violet 
to  the  bluish-black  of  the  early  evening.  And  then  the 
stars  come  out,  one  by  one,  till  the  firmament  above  is  sprink- 
led as  with  silvery  dust,  and  every  particle  of  this  shining 
dust  is  duplicated  in  the  liquid  mirror  below.  Then  the 
moon  rising  over  the  great  ridge  to  the  east  blazons  a broad 
pathway  of  frosted  silver  across  the  lake,  and  turns  each  pro- 
jecting rock,  each  lone  dead  tree  into  a silver  milestone  to 


TOl/RISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


IS3 

mark  the  way.  Such  a scene  witnessed  once,  can  never  be 
forgotten,  and  its  memory  is  worth  a summer  of  ordinary 
sight-seeing.  The  city  is  neatlj^  built  and  regularly  laid  out, 
with  several  fine  churches,  an  imposing  city  hall,  fronting  on 
a little  green  near  the  centre,  a custom  house  and  post  office 
building,  and  an  elegant  court  house  but  a block  or  two 
awa3^  The  lumber  mills  are  the  city’s  chief  source  of  wealth. 
Some  50,000,000  feet  are  annually  exported,  and  the  business 
is  constantly  increasing. 

Across  the  Lake  to  Plattsburg. 

Leaving  the  wharf  at  Burlington,  we  steam  nearly  straight 
across  the  lake  to  Port  Kent.  South  Hero  — the  largest  island 
in  the  lake,  and  which  with  North  Hero  comprises  the  county 
of  Grand  Isle,  Vermont  — is  seen  right  ahead,  and  passing 
west  of  this  inland,  Valcour  Island  appears  upon  the  left.  Just 
south  of  Valcour  Island  was  the  first  naval  engagement  of  the 
Revolutionary  war,  on  the  nth  of  October,  1776,  between 
the  American  fleet,  commanded  by  Benedict  Arnold,  and  the 
British  under  Gov.  Carleton  and  Capt.  Pringle.  Valcour 
Island  is  one  of  the  largest  and  handsomest  of  the  islands  in 
Lake  Champlain,  excepting  North  and  South  Hero  Islands, 
which  are  like  continents  almost  in  their  extent,  being  laid 
out  in  farms  of  large  extent,  and  having  one  or  two  consider- 
able villages  within  their  limits.  Valcour  is  lofty,  wooded  to 
the  water’s  edge,  and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  deep  water. 
On  the  westerly  side  is  a handsome  stone  lighthouse,  recently 
built  by  the  United  States  government,  as  an  aid  to  the  navi- 
gation of  the  lake.  The  experiment  of  founding  a free-love 
community  was  tried  in  1874  on  Valcour  Island,  and  quite  a 
number  of  colonists  went  into  the  scheme,  but  as  is  usually  the 
case  with  such  experiments,  internal  dissensions  and  quarrels 
over  the  property  involved,  broke  up  the  arrangement.  Port 
Kent  is  a small  village  whence  considerable  iron  ore  is  shipped 
and  whence  stages  run  to  Keeseville,  the  Adi  ondacks  and 
the  Ausable  Chasm.  After  leaving  Port  Kent,  we  pass 
7* 


1^4  TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 

through  the  narrow  but  deep  channel  between  Valcour  Island 
and  the  west  shore  of  the  lake.  The  wreck  of  the  Royal 
Savage,  sunk  in  the  engagement  mentioned  above,  still  lies 
in  the  water  of  the  Island,  and  is  frequently  visited  by  parties 
of  the  youth  of  the  neighboring  shore,  who  dive  to  the  sunken 
hulk  for  ‘‘  relics.”  North  of  Valcour  is  Crab  Island,  on  which 
the  Americans  had  a small  battery  in  the  battle  of  Plattsburg, 
and  where  the  sailors  killed  in  the  fight  were  buried.  Passing 
this  island,  we  turn  to  the  left  and  enter  Cumberland  Bay,  a 
noble  expanse  of  water,  nearly  land-locked  by  Cumberland 
Head,  which  projects  far  out  into  the  lake  and  encloses  the 
bay  on  the  north  and  northeast.  On  its  extreme  point  is  a 
lighthouse,  and  at  the  head  of  the  bay  and  mouth  of  the 
Saranac  river  which  empties  here,  is  the  town  of  Plattsburg. 
A long  mole  or  breakwater,  with  a small  lighthouse  on  either 
end,  protects  the  open  side  of  tne  harbor,  and  within  vessels 
can  safely  lie  at  any  time. 

The  Lower  End  of  the  Lake. 

Leaving  Piattsbuig  and  its  neighboring  attractions  for 
future  mention,  we  will  continue  down  the  lake.  It  seems 
odd  to  any  one  but  a “ native  ” to  speak  of  going  north  as 
“ down  the  lake,”  yet  as  Nature  has  willed  that  Champlain 
should  discharge  its  waters  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  north  is 
‘‘  down  ” and  we  mu>t  submit  to  it.  We  round  Cumberland 
Head  on  our  left  as  we  leave  the  harbor,  and  pass  between 
the  west  shore  and  Grand  Isle.  Fifteen  miles  north.  Isle  La 
Motte,  on  which  the  French  in  1665  built  a fort,  rises  on  our 
right,  and  to  the  east  of  this,  the  peninsula  known  as  Alburgh 
Tongue  makes  down  from  the  north  on  the  eastern  shore, 
enclosing  a large  and  beautiful  expanse  or  arm  of  the  lake, 
known  as  Missisquoi  Bay.  The  large  island  of  North  Hero 
lies  directly  in  its  entrance,  leaving  only  a channel  on  either 
side.  Ten  miles  further  north,  or  twenty-five  from  Platts- 
burg  and  130  from  Whitehall,  we  reach  Rouse’s  Point,  the  end 
of  our  steamboat  voyage.  Rouse’s  Point  is  a small  and  un- 


TOURISTS^  HANt>B00k 


iss 


attractive  village,  noted  only  as  a railroad  centre  and  as  the 
frontier  post,  where  Uncle  Sam’s  custom  officers  inspect  the 
baggage  of  tourists  coming  from  Her  Brittanic  Majesty’s 
dominions.  Here  the  waters  of  the  lake  are  discharged 
through  the  broad  Richelieu  or  St.  Johns  river,  seventy  miles 
long,  which  empties  into  the  St.  Lawrence  below  Montreal. 
Who  Rouse  was,  or  why  he  located  his  point  here,  history 
does  not  inform  us.  It  does  tell  us,  however,  that  the 
fortification  — in  an  unfinivshed  and  decidedly  demoralized 
condition,  a mile  north  of  the  village  — is  Fort  Montgomery, 
and  was  built  to  command  the  Richelieu  river,  with  164  guns. 
After  work  had  progressed  on  it  for  some  time,  it  was  found  to 
stand  on  British  soil,  and  only  a generous  change  of  boundary 
g ive  it  to  the  United  States.  The  Western  Division  ofthe  Cen- 
tral Vermont  Railroad,  diverging  westward  from  the  main 
line  at  St.  Albans,  Vt.,  and  running  thence  to  Ogdensburgh, 
here  crosses  the  river  on  a pile  bridge  a mile  long,  with  a 
floating  draw  300  feet  in  length.  The  water  is  very  clear 
here,  and  from  the  car  windows  droves  of  fish  can  be  seen 
inquisitively  smelling  of  the  bridge  piles,  and  apparently 
waiting  to  be  hooked  from  the  windows  of  the  house  on  the 
bridge,  bui  t for  the  accommodation  of  the  draw  tenders. 


CHAPTER  VIE 

Plattsburgh  and  the  Ausable  Chasm. 

USABLE  is  a word  frequently 
heard  in  and  about  Platts- 
burgh The  river  of  that 
name,  taking  its  rise  among 
the  Adirondacks  empties  into 
the  lake  a few  miles  below 
the  town,  and  the  famous 
chasm  — also  called  ‘‘Walled 
B.mks  of  the  Ausable.”  — is 
one  of  the  most  noted  objects 
of  interest  in  its  vicinity. 
That  it  is  worthy  tenfold  the 
fame  it  now  enjoys,  this  nar- 
rative will  soon  make  evid- 
ent. But  fiist.  we  must  look 
about  Plattsburgh  a little, 
and  make  preparations  for  a trip  to  the  chasm.  The  town 
proper  is  noted  for  two  things,  one  in  the  past,  the  other  in 
the  pre'^ent.  The  first  is  the  battle  which  in  1814  did  so  much 
towards  settling  our  last  open  disagreement  with  the  British 
lion;  the  other  is  Fouquet’s  Hotel,  which  has  done  and, is 
still  doing  so  much  for  the  comfort  of  visitors  to  this  section. 
Taking  the  subjects  in  chronological  order,  we  will  read  up  a 
little  on  the  history  of  the  famous  battle  of  Plattsburgh.  The 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


157 


British,  in  the  war  of  1812,  looked  upon  Lake  Champlain  as 
one  of  the  easiest  as  well  as  most  direct  routes  for  their  inva- 
sion of  the  States  from  their  Canadian  possession.  In 
the  former  assumption  they  were  somewhat  “out,”  as  the 
sequel  shows.  The  Americans  had  resolved  to  contest  the 
supremacy  of  the  lake,  and  both  sides  put  forth  their  utmost 
energies  during  the  Summer  of  1814  in  preparation.  There 
was  the  greatest  despatch  in  getting  vessels  ready  for  defence. 
The  Saratoga,  which  carried  twenty-six  guns,  being  the  larg- 
est American  vessel  on  the  lake,  was  built  at  Vergennes,  and 
launched  on  the  twentieth  day  after  the  first  tree  in  her  frame 
was  brought  from  the  forest.  Capt.  McDonough,  the  com- 
mander of  the  American  fleet,  anchored  in  Cumberland  Bay  on 
the  3d  of  September,  and  waited  for  the  fleet  of  the  enemy. 
His  flotilla  consisted  of  the  Saratoga,  the  Eagle  of  twenty 
guns,  the  Ticonderoga  of  seventeen,  the  Preble  of  seven,  and 
ten  gunboats.  On  the  morning  of  the  8th,  the  British  fleet 
rounded  Cm^berland  Head  and  advanced  to  the  attack.  Com- 
modore Downie  was  in  command,  and  his  vessels  were  the 
Confiance  of  thirty-eight  guns,  the  Linnet  of  sixteen,  the 
Chub  and  Finch  of  eleven  guns  each,  and  twelve  gunboats. 
The  total  strength  of  the  Americans  were  86  guns  and  852 
men,  while  the  invaders  numbered  95  guns  andi095  men.  As 
the  hostile  fleet  approached,  McDonough  knelt  on  the  deck  of 
the  Saratoga,  surrounded  by  his  oflicers  and  men,  and  invoked 
the  aid  of  the  God  of  buttles ; then  gave  the  signal  to  begin 
the  action.  The  Saratoga  and  Eagle  opened,  when  Downie’s 
flagship,  the  Confiance,  closing  in  upon  the  Saratoga,  swept 
her  decks  with  a tremendous  broadside,  and  the  Linnet  by  an 
advantage  of  position  was  enabled  to  rake  her  from  stem  to 
stern.  But  the  brave  McDonough  kept  up  his  fire  till  his 
whole  starboard  battery  was  disabled,  when,  by  a skillful 
manoeuvre,  he  turned  about  and  opened  such  a terrific  fire  from 
his  port  battery  that  he  compelled  both  his  antagonists  to 
strike  their  flags.  Meantime,  the  Eagle  had  captured  the  Chub, 
the  Ticonderoga  had  disabled  the  Finch,  and  after  2J  hours  of 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


158 

steady  cannonading,  the  whole  British  fleet  had  surrendered. 
Commodore  Downie  had  been  killed  and  McDonough  had 
been  disabled  by  two  severe  wounds.  Sir  George  Prevost, 
meanwhile  had  attacked  the  land  position  of  the  Americans 
across  the  peninsula,  between  the  Saranac  and  the  lake,  with 
14,000  veteran  British  troops,  and  had  vainly  attempted  to 
storm  the  rude  earth-works  by  fording  the  river  in  three 
columns.  The  defeat  of  the  naval  forces,  and  fears  of  being 
surrounded  by  the  rapidly  gathering  militia  of  New  York  and 
Vermont,  led  Prevost  to  precipitately  retreat  in  the  night, 
leaving  his  stores  and  wounded  behind.  His  loss  in  this  en- 
gagement was  2000;  that  of  the  Americans  less  than  150. 
General  Macomb,  who  commanded  the  Americans,  had  but 
1500  regulars,  700  New  York  and  2500  Vermont  militia.  The 
exultation  of  the  Yankees  over  their  victory  was  immense; 
McDonough  and  Macomb  were  loaded  with  honors  and  sub- 
stantial rewards,  while  the  chagrin  of  the  British  found  vent 
in  the  degradation  of  Prevost,  which  Downie,  being  dead,  did 
not  partake.  The  scenes  of  the  land  and  naval  engagements 
are  still  pointed  out  to  visitors  to  Plattsburgh,  and  the  site  of 
the  American  batteries  are  still  visible. 

So  much  for  the  memories  of  the  past.  Now  for  the  real- 
ities of  the  present. 

Pouquet’s  Hotel  and  its  Attractions. 

Fouquet’s  Hotel  is  the  present  feature,  par  excellence.^  of 
Plattsburgh  and  has  given  it  more  celebrity  than  any  other 
one  feature.  No  person  visiting  the  Adirondacks  — which  in 
recent  years  have  become  no  less  a fashionable  resort  than  a 
sanitarium  and  a paradise  for  the  sportman  — fails  to  stop  at 
Fouquet’s  going  or  coming,  to  test  the  wonders  of  its  cuisine., 
the  luxury  of  its  cool,  fragrant  bedrooms  and  sleep-wooing 
beds,  and  to  revel  in  the  balmy  enchantments  of  its  delight- 
ful flower-garden.  From  Fouquet’s,  by  teams,  which  can  be 
had  on  application,  from  the  stables,  sight-seers  are  conveyed 
to  all  points  of  interest  in  and  about  Plattsburg.  This  house 


FOUQUET’S  HOTEL. 


i6o 


TOURISTS^  BANDBOOK. 


has  been  known  to  the  travelling  public  for  more  than  seventy 
years.  The  family  of  Mr.  Fouquet  has  met  with  great  suc- 
cess in  hotel  keeping,  having  an  appreciative  sense  of  what 
travellers  want,  and  providing  accordingly.  In  June,  1864, 
the  house  standing  on  the  site  of  the  present  beautiful  struc- 
ture was  burned,  and  the  present  hotel  was  erected  a year  or 
two  later.  The  late  proprietor,  Mr.  Louis  M.  Fouquet  — at 
son  of  Mr.  D.  L.  Fouquet  and  grandson  of  Mr.  John  L. 
Fouquet,  who  in  1798  opened  the  first  public  house  on  this 
site — was  a gentleman  by  instinct  and  practice ; a man  of  intel- 
lect and  culture,  a poet,  an  artist,  and  a lover  of  all  that  is 
beautiful  in  nature  ; to  which  he  added  a never-failing  thought- 
fulness of  the  needs  and  wishes  of  his  guests,  and  a personal 
interest  in  their  comfort.  He  died  May  26,  1875,  and  the 
house  was  purchased  by  Apollos  A.  Smith  & Co.,  now  kept 
by  Messrs.  Smith  & Martin,  well-known  to  Adironack  visitors 
by  their  management  of  ‘‘Paul  Smith’s.” 

The  present  house  accommodates  150  guests,  its  rooms  are 
large,  well  ventilated,  refitted  and  re-furnished,  while  the 
table  i^  famed  for  its  exquisite  cookery  and  its  perfect  attend- 
ance. The  house  has  always  been  the  favorite  resort  of  the 
United  States  officers  stationed  at  the  port,  and  MacDonough, 
Worth,  Wool,  Bonneville,  Magruder,  Hooker,  Kearney, 
Richetts  and  “Stonewall”  Jackson,  have  quartered  here 
during  their  service  at  Plattsburgh. 

The  grounds  and  fragrant  flower  garden  afford  a most  agree- 
able retreat.  The  broad  piazzas  on  two  sides  of  the  house, 
and  the  promenade  upon  the  roof,  give  a wide  view  of  the 
lake,  battle-ground,  the  scene  of  the  naval  engagement,  the 
village,  the  surrounding  country,  and  the  mountains  on  every 
side.  The  house,  by  its  beautiful  and  spacious  grounds,  fur- 
nishes safe  and  pleasant  accommodations  for  ladies  and  chil- 
dren through  the  summer.  There  are  large  brick  stables  on 
the  grounds,  intended  for  the  accommodation  of  guests  who 
bring  their  own  horses  and  carriages,  as  well  as  to  furnish 
teams  for  rides  and  excursions. 


FOUQUET’S  GARDEN. 


t62 


TOUniSTS^  handbook. 


The  Town  of  Plattsburgh. 

The  Plattsburgh  of  the  present  day  is  a thriving  town  whose 
business  prosperity  is  due  to  its  saw-mills  on  the  Saranac 
river  at  the  rapids  near  its  month,  and  to  its  extensive  lake 
commerce.  It  has  about  6,000  inhabitants  and  is  the  capital 
of  Clinton  county.  The  court  house  and  other  county  build- 
ings stand  on  Margaret  street,  near  the  little  park  at  the  centre, 
and  near  by,  on  the  same  street,  are  Trinity  Church  and  the 
Custom  House.  There  are  several  handsome  churches,  and 
many  of  the  streets  leading  from  the  bay  over  the  high  plateau 
back  of  the  business  centre,  are  lined  with  handsome  trees  and 
spacious  grounds,  while  elegant  residences  lookout  from  their 
environment  of  trees.  The  United  States  barracks,  a frontier 
post  of  considerable  importance,  and  during  the  war  a receiv- 
ing depot  for  troops,  are  on  a sandy  bluff  a mile  south  of 
the  village,  and  the  bugle  call  which  announces  reveille,” 
“retreat,”  and  “tattoo,”  is  one  of  the  familiar  sounds  of 
Plattsburgh.  There  are  several  very  pleasant  and  inter- 
esting drives  in  the  vicinity  of  Plattsburgh.  That  around 
Cumberland  Head  affords  splendid  views  of  the  lake  and  the 
scene  of  the  battle  of  1814.  Another  is  to  the  town  of  Danne- 
mora,  sixteen  miles  northwest  of  Plattsburgh,  in  which  is 
situated  the  Clinton  Prison,  as  it  is  called.  Here  is  an  eleva- 
tion 1,700  feet  high;  but  the  ascent  is  so  gradual  that  in 
riding  up  from  Plattsburgh  it  is  scarcely  observed  to  rise  at 
all.  This  is  visited  chiefly  for  the  beautiful  view  that  is 
afforded  of  the  surrounding  country, — the  Green  Mountains 
in  the  east.  Lake  Champlain  stretching  to  the  southeast, 
the  winding  course  of  the  Saranac  to  the  south,  and  the 
high  Adirondack  peaks  to  the  westward.  Five  miles  beyond, 
in  the  town  of  Dannemora,  is  Chazy  Lake,  a little  gem,  set  in 
the  most  picturesque  and  beautiful  surrounding.  This  lake  is 
about  four  miles  long  by  two  wide,  and  is  a favorite  resort  of 
the  sportsman  as  well  as  the  admirer  of  natural  scenery.  This 
lake  is  nowhere  surpassed  as  a place  for  fishing.  Trout 
weighing  twenty  pounds  have  been  taken  from  it.  The  road 


Tounisrs’  iiandbook. 


163 


to  the  lake  was  built  with  great  care,  at  the  expense  of  the 
State,  and  is  in  good  condition.  Near  Chazy  Lake  stands 
Lion  INIountain,  sometimes  called  on  the  maps  Ljnn  Moun- 
tain ; Bradley  Pond  is  two  miles  west  of  Chazy  Lake,  and  west 
of  this  tliere  is  a path  running  three  miles  farther  to  the  Upper 
Chateaugay  Lake.  West  of  the  Upper  Chateaugay  Lake  is 
Ragged  Lake,  six  miles  long  and  half  a mile  wide. 
From  the  town  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ausable,  and  back  along 
the  lake  shore,  is  another  favorite  drive  and  one  of  the  finest 
on  a clear  morning  that  can  anywhere  be  enjoyed.  As  this  is 
a part  of  the  route  to  the  Ausable  Chasm,  and  as  we  have 
been  all  this  time  getting  ready  for  the  trip  hither,  we  will 
suppose  ourselves  stepping  from  the  verandah  of  Fouquet’s 
into  one  of  Ransom’s  easy  carriages,  draw  by  a pair  of  spank- 
ing bays,  in  the  clear,  cool  early  morning,  bound  for  the 
Chasm. 


The  Drive  to  Ausable  Chasm. 

Our  course  leads  us  out  through  the  southern  part  of  the 
town,  across  the  sandy  plain  by  the  barracks,  past  the  Catho- 
lic cemetery  with  its  odd  monuments,  in  sight  of  the  Sara- 
nac river,  with  its  amber  waters  churned  into  foam  as  it  pours 
over  the  rocky  ledges,  and  millions  of  logs,  floated  down  from 
the  Adirondack  woods  and  ponds,  stranded  and  waiting  for 
the  next  freshet  to  send  them  down  to  the  booms  above  the 
Plattsburgh  saw  mills.  A little  further  on  our  road  descends 
to  the  shore  of  the  lake,  which  it  follows  for  several  miles. 
The  panorama  is  both  grand  and  beautiful.  To  the  left  is 
the  clear,  blue  lake,  stretching  away  almost  beyond  the  line 
of  vision,  with  the  Vermont  hills  forming  a low  purple  wall  in 
the  background.  Near  at  hand,  the  liquid  expanse  is  broken 
by  Valcour  Island,  with  its  dense  green  foliage,  and  at  our 
feet  lie  occasional  Ashing  boats,  about  which  are  fishermen 
busy  with  their  nets.  Along  the  lake  shore,  at  the  outer 
edge  of  the  road,  a line  of  poplars,  tall  and  erect,  set  before 
the  war  of  1812,  stand  like  sentinels  watching  the  border. 


164 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


To  our  right  are  smooth,  rolling  farm  lands,  with  solid  stone 
houses  and  mammoth  barns,  telling  of  fertile  acres  and  abun- 
dant crops.  In  the  distance  the  Adirondack  peaks  pierce  the 
clouds,  and  their  grim  wall,  softened  hy  the  distance  to  a 
most  unsubstantial  looking  blue,  shuts  in  the  scene  Before 
us  Mount  Trembleau  stands  like  a grim  giant  to  bar  our  waj, 
and  across  the  lake  a great  mass  like  a lion  couchant  indicates 
and  justifies  the  name  of  Lion  Mountain  which  it  bears.  At 
intervals  of  a few  miles,  old  landings  project  into  the  lake, 
where,  before  the  days  of  the  railroad,  sailing  vessels  and 
steamers  landed,  and  whence  plank  roads  led  back  into  the 
country,  but  which  are  now  obsolete,  and  whose  docks  and 
storehouses  are  falling  to  pieces.  We  ford  the  Ausable  river 
near  its  mouth,  and  opposite  a lovely  butternut  grove,  a 
favorite  picnic  resort  in  summer.  The  river  is  now  but  two 
or  three  feet  deep  at  this  point,  but  in  the  Spring  it  tears  and 
roars  along  all  over  the  surrounding  bottom  lands,  as  shown 
by  the  floodwood  and  gravel  deposited  here  and  there  on  the 
meadows  We  follow  the  general  course  of  this  stream  two 
or  three  miles  up,  till  on  rising  a hill  we  see  a turn  in  the 
road  to  the  right,  a plash  of  falling  water,  a stone  bridge,  and 
on  the  other  side  a gray  stone  house  on  which  is  painted 
“Chism  House.”  Here  our  driver  pulls  up,  and  informs  us 
thabhere  is  the  head  of  the  chasm,  and  that  it  extends  a mile 
or  two  close  beside  the  road  over  which  we  have  come.  All 
we  have  seen  has  been  a dense  thicket,  mostly  cedar — not  a 
sign  of  a glen  or  a stream.  And  no  wonder.  We  might 
have  walked  throug’n  this  thxket,  and  until  we  reached  its 
very  brink,  or  perhaps  stepped  off  into  the  narrow,  vertical 
crevice,  we  should  not  have  seen  the  chasm. 

The  Chasm  and  its  Wonders. 

We  drive  up  to  a small  wooden  building  called  the  Lodge, 
which  we  enter,  leaving  our  wrappings  and  “traps”  in  the 
carriage  to  be  regained  at  the  lower  end  of  the  chasm,  to 
which  our  driver  proceeds,  while  we  make  the  underground 


route  through  the 
I Chasm  described  in  the 
1 adjoining  pages,  begins 
at  the  “ Upper  Entrance  ” 
near  the  bottom  of  the  Map, 
and  continues  upward  to  “The 
Pool”  near  the  upper  right 
hand  corner. 


UILT 


[Taken  by  permission  from  Stod- 
dard’s “Adirondacks/’] 


i66 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


trip  on  foot.  We  pay  half  a dollar  a piece  for  a ticket  of  ad- 
mission, are  shown  to  the  head  of  a flight  of  stairs  on  the 
chasm  side  of  the  house,  and  start  on  our  journey.  There 
are  lOO  steps  in  this  almost  perpendicular  staircase,  and  we 
descend  with  a good  deal  of  trepidation,  and  stand  on  the 
solid  rock  at  the  bottom  with  a sense  of  relief.  Here  we  find 
ourselves  looking  at  two  prodigious  perpendicular  walls,  75 
feet  high,  one  on  either  hand.  Almost  at  our  feet,  the  shelf 
of  smooth  rock  on  which  we  stand  gives  place  to  vacancy. 
Stepping  to  the  edge  we  look  and  see  the  river  roaring  over 
its  rocky  bed  a few  feet  below  us.  We  proceed  up  stream  a 
few  rods,  and  turning  a corner  of  the  rocky  wall  we  are  face 
to  face  with  and  at  the  foot  of  a cataract  very  like  the  Ameri- 
can fall  at  Niagara,  in  all  save  grandeur.  It  is  the  Birming- 
ham Fall,  sixty  feet  high  divided  in  the  centre  by  a tower  of 
solid  rock  on  which  rests  the  pier  of  the  bridge  which  we  have 
seen  from  above,  and  which  spans  the  river  just  at  the  verge  of 
the  fall.  We  gaze  at  the  foamy  cataract  for  a few  moments  and 
then  begin  our  journey  down  stream,  through  the  wonderful 
glen.  For  the  first  few  minutes  we  proceed  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  stream,  along  the  same  rocky  shelf  or  ledge  to  which 
we  first  descended  (past  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  and  the  Horse- 
shoe Falls,  where  the  river  tumbles  over  a semi-circular  ledge 
some  ten  feet  in  height,  and  then  makes  an  abrupt  turn  to  the 
right)  and  then  cross  the  stream  on  a wooden  foot  bridge 
resting  upon  the  ledges  on  either  side  and  a rocky  islet  in 
mid-stream,  whence  we  gain  a splendid  view  of  the  Birming- 
ham and  Horse-shoe  Falls. 

From  this  point,  we  climb  by  a most  trying  flight  of  stairs, 
to  the  summit  of  a lofty  projection  of  the  left  bank  of  the  river, 
which  bars  further  progress  along  the  ledge,  then  crossing  the 
point  on  the  top  of  the  earth,  we  descend  on  the  other  side,  by 
another  flight  of  steps.  This  projecting  tower  bears  the  name 
of  Jacob’s  Ladder.  A minute  description  of  the  rest  of  the 
trip  through  this  wonderful  glen,  would  be  merely  a chronicle' 
of  steps  ascended  and  steps  descended,  some  700  in  all ; of 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


167 


long  galleries  of  plank  anchored  to  the  rocky  wall  traversed, 
by  which  we  continue  our  journey  where  the  ledge  of  rock 
ceases  to  give  a foothold ; of  one  long  stretch  where  the 
waters  in  the  Spring  freshets  have  cut  a passageway  in  the 
stony  sides  of  the  chasm,  barely  wide  and  high  enough  to 
permit  of  our  crawling  like  insects,  while  the  honeycombed 
depressions  in  the  rock,  filled  with  the  cards  and  address  en- 
velopes of  previous  visitors,  give  the  spot  the  fitting  name  of 
“ The  Post  Olfice,”  and  last  and  most  delightful  feature  of  all, 
a glide  down  stream  in  a little  boat,  through  the  famous 
Flume. 

To  generalize  the  tour,  it  is  only  necessary  to  say  that  the 
chasm  is  a rift  in  the  massive  rock  — of  Potsdam  sand-stone, 
— from  ten  to  fifty  feet  wide,  and  from  sixty  to  200  feet  deep. 
Through  the  bottom,  the  Ausable  makes  its  way,  now  pouring 
noisily  over  a little  fall,  now  gliding  rapidly  over  a ledge,  now 
expanding  into  a placid  pool,  and  now  surging  through  a nar- 
row gateway,  where  the  eternal  walls  seems  disposed  to  close, 
and  forbid  entirely  the  passage  of  the  stream.  The  Flume, 
already  mentioned,  is  a long,  smooth  stretch  of  water,  between 
walls  almost  as  smooth  and  straight  as  if  carved  and  polished 
by  the  stone-cutter’s  art.  Here  the  gorge  is  very  narrow ; so 
narrow  that  you  can  almost  touch  the  walls  on  either  hand, 
and  the  water  so  deep  as  to  appear  perfectly  black.  Through 
this  gloomy  pass,  recalling  somehow,  reveries  of  Venetian 
canals,  the  Bridge  of  Sighs  and  the  passage  of  black  gondolas 
with  prisoners  for  the  gloomy  subaqueous  dungeons  of  the 
Doges,  we  smoothly  drift  in  the  small  batteau  to  the  lower 
end,  where  the  walls  expand ; the  grateful  sunlight,  so  long 
excluded,  pours  down  upon  the  water,  the  banks  recede  and 
slope  gently  to  the  river’s  brink  in  a little  sandy  beach,  and 
the  broadening  stream  roars  and  plashes  over  a little  rapid 
just  below.  We  land  on  the  beach,  and  a flight  of  stairs  as- 
cends to  the  top  of  the  bank,  where  our  carriage  waits.  At 
'the  head  of  the  stairs  is  a small  house,  where  mild  refresh- 
ments, as  ginger  pop  and  soda,  are  dispensed,  and  where  ex- 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


1 68 

cellent  photographs  and  stereoscopic  views  of  the  marvellous 
Chasm  are  for  sale,  at  prices  fully  as  low  as  are  charged  for 
similar  articles  in  Boston  or  New  York.  A few  of  the  chief 
objects  of  interest  on  our  way  down  the  Chasm,  are  Jacob’s 
Ladder,  a bold,  projecting  tower,  around  which  the  river 
makes  a sort  of  gooseneck  curve ; the  Leaning  Tower,  the 
Tower  of  Babel,  the  Pyramid,  Point  of  Rocks,  Point  Surprise, 
the  Sentinel  and  the  Broken  Needle,  all  lofty  columnar  forms  ; 
Mystic  Gorge  and  half  a hundred  of  other  nameless  rifts  or 
lateral  fissures,  branching  off  at  right  angles  to  the  main  cleft, 
into  its  solid  walls;  Cathedral  Rocks,  between  which  a flight 
of  210  steps  rises  to  the  bank  above ; 

Cathedral  Rocks. 

Table  Rock,  a broad  flat  plateau  of  stone  at  the  foot  of 
Cathedral  Rocks,  and  no  end  of  attractions  dignified  by  the 
name  of  his  Satanic  Majesty  — the  Devil’s  Oven,  the  Devil’s 
Slide,  the  Devil’s  Chimney,  the  Devil’s  Punchbowl,  the 
Devil’s  Pulpit,  and  Hell  Gate.  The  Devil’s  Oven  is  merely  a 
large  cave  in  the  side  of  the  Chasm,  a little  below  Jacob’s 
Ladder  and  on  the  opposite  side.  It  has  been  formed  evi- 
dently by  the  gradual  disintegration  of  the  layers  of  soft  rock, 
which  have  crumbled  into  little  cubical  blocks  and  fallen 
down,  so  that  there  is  quite  a sloping  pyramid  of  them  leading 
up  to  the  entrance  of  the  oven.  His  Slide  is  one  of  the 
transverse  fissures,  which  extends  in  a regular  slope  from  the 
bottom  of  the  glen  up  to  daylight  above ; his  Pulpit  and  his 
Chimney  are  projections  of  rock  from  the  top  of  the  cliffs, 
resembling  the  objects  named ; and  his  Punchbowl  is  a deep 
pool  formed  by  a turn  in  the  great  cleft  through  which  the 
river  runs,  and  instead  of  punch  it  holds  the  clearest  and 
purest  of  water.  Why  all  these  notable  objects  should  be 
surrendered  to  the  custody  of  the  Prince  of  Darkness  it  is 
hard  to  say,  unless  it  be  to  deter  the  visitor  from  any  contem- 
plated wickedness  by  the  fear  of  drowning  in  the  Punchbowl 
or  roasting  in  the  Oven.  But  travel  where  you  will,  the  most 


TO  UR  fST.V  TTA  NO  BO O K. 


169 


wonderful  and  i^rand  objects  in  nature  are  named,  with  won- 
derful unanimity,  after  the  Devil.  Until  within  a few  years, 
the  Ansahle  Chasm,  thong’ll  a local  wonder,  was  little  known 
to  the  outside  world,  and  few  visits  were  paid  to  it.  About 
1S6S,  the  stairs  at  the  Cathedral  Rocks  were  built,  and  visitors 


CATHEDRAL  ROCKS. 

who  had  hitherto  scrambled  down  as  best  they  could  near  the 
Devil’s  Oven,  were  provided  with  a safe  and  comfortable 
means  of  entering  the  Chasm.  In  1873,  a party  of  Philadel- 
phia capitalists  purchased  the  land  on  the  right  hank  of  the 
glen,  built  the  lodge,  the  stairways,  galleries  and  bridges,  and 
8 


170 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


put  in  the  boat.  They  also  built  in  the  summer  of  1874  a new 
hotel  on  the  high  ground  overlooking  the  lake,  the  river  above 
the  Falls  and  the  surrounding  country.  It  is  called  the  Lake 
View  House,  and  is  a handsome  three-story  structure,  with  a 
tall  tower,  large,  airy,  well  furnished  rooms  lighted  by  gas, 
and  all  the  requisites  of  a first-class  summer  hotel.  With  the 
present  facilities,  the  Ausable  Chasm  is  one  of  the  most 
accessible  and  easily  visited  places,  and  certainly  none  will 
better  repay  the  tourist  for  a day’s  time  and  a few  dollars 
expense. 


library 
or  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS 


CHAPTER  VIII, 


The  Adirondack  Region. 


LATTSBURGH  is  the  most  convenient 
point  from  which  to  penetrate  the  Adirondack 
region  from  this  direction  though  as  we  have 
seen  before,  Port  Kent,  Essex,  Westport,  on 
Lake  Champlain,  and  vari- 
ous points  on  the  y\diron- 
dack  Railroad  are  taken  as 
points  of  departure  bj  tour- 
ists bound  for  the  hunting 
and  fishing  paradise  of  the 
• North  oods.”  During 
the  last  few  years  these 
woods  have  been  invested 
and  infested  with  great 
numbers  of  people  fitly 
called  Murray's  Fools,” 
who  have  rushed  hither  imagining  that  it  was  the  thing  to  do, 
without  the  slightest  intelligent  idea  as  to  the  nature  of  the 
country  or  what  is  required  for  the  proper  enjoyment  of  the 
resort.  They  have  come  hither  attired  in  watering  place 
style,  the  men  with  most  elegant  guns,  rods  and  flies,  expect- 
ing to  shoot  deer  and  catch  trout  from  the  piazza  of  a hotel, 
and  to  wear  their  silk  hats,  white  trousers,  primrose  kids  and 
patent-leather  boots  while  doing  it ; the  ladies  with  beruffied 
and  befriiled  silk  and  muslin  costumes  and  Saratoga  trunks , 


172 


TOUniSTS^  HANDBOOK, 


bent  on  making  a sensation — which  they  generally  do.  These 
silly  people  have  brought  the  Adirondacks  into  disrepute 
by  their  piteous  lamentations  on  their  return  to  civilization 
of  the  discomforts  they  have  endured  and  the  disappointments 
they  have  suffered ; but  they  have  mostly  given  up  trying  to 
be  woodsmen  and  wood  nymphs,  and  have  abandoned  the 
Adirondacks  to  those  who  can  appreciate  and  enjoy  them ; 
the  experienced  and  sensible  lovers  of  Nature  in  her  wildest 
moods,  and  of  the  free  life  of  the  forest.  The  range  of  moun- 
tains known  as  the  Adirondacks  extends  from  the  north-east 
corner  of  New  York  State,  in  a south  south-westerly  direc- 
tion, occupying  portions  of  Clinton,  Essex,  Franklin,  and 
Hamilton  Counties.  It  finds  its  greatest  elevations  in  the 
western  part  of  Essex  County,  which  contains  the  highest 
peaks  of  the  Northern  Appalachian  Chain,  Mount  Washington 
alone  excepted  The  sources  of  some  of  the  streams  which 
flow  in  different  directions  are  often  connected  with  each 
other,  many  of  the  lakes  and  ponds  lying  on  the  same  plane. 
Most  of  these  bodies  of  water  vary  in  height  above  the  sea- 
level  from  1500  feet  to  1731  feet,  the  latter  being  the  elevation 
of  Raquette  Lake.  The  mountains  are  well  covered  with  trees, 
— birch,  beech,  maple,  ash,  hemlock,  spruce,  fir,  ^cedar,  and 
white  pine,  in  the  higher  lands,  and  along  the  courses  of  the 
streams  almost  impenetrable  thickets  of  tamarack,  hemlock, 
and  cedar.  The  pine  affords  the  most  valuable  timber,  which 
is  run  down  the  various  streams  in  the  time  of  the  spring 
freshets.  Masses  of  magnetic  iron  ore  of  enormous  extent 
have  been  found,  which  have  led  to  the  establishing  of  smelt- 
ing works.  The  tour  usually  made  by  the  casual  visitor  em- 
braces the  St.  Regis  and  Saranac  Lakes,  with  Paul  Smith’s 
and  Martin’s  as  the  central  points.  The  St.  Regis  lakes  are 
the  northermost  of  the  chain  which  lies  to  the  west  of  the 
mountain  range.  Taking  an  early  breakfast  at  Fouquet’s  we 
take  the  train  on  the  Whitehall  and  Plattsburgh  Railroad, 
from  the  depot  near  the  hotel,  and  proceed  southwest  twenty 
miles  to  x\usable  Station,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name. 


TOURISTS^  nANDROOK 


173 


whence  Concord  conches  convey  ns  three  miles  over  a plank 
road  to  Ansable  Forks,  an  iron  mining  and  smelting  village, 
with  two  small  taverns,  a telegraph  ohice  and  a few  stores. 
Here  the  north  branch  of  the  Ausable  River,  fed  by  Lake 
Placid  and  other  ponds,  joins  the  south  branch  flowing  up 
from  the  Ausable  Ponds,  and  the  shallow,  brawling  stream, 
thence  pursues  a northeastern  course  till  it  passes  through  the 
marvellous  Chasm,  and  empties  into  Lake  Champlain.  From 
Ausable  Forks  to  Franklin  Falls  is  17  miles  of  hard  mountain 
staging,  and  at  the  last  named  place,  passengers  stop  for  din- 
ner. The  plank  road  ceases  here,  and  the  rest  of  the  journey 
is  made  in  light  mountain  wagons,  over  roads  which  will 
compare  favorably  with  country  roads  elsewhere.  Our  course 
is  nearly  due  west,  and  we  pass  through  the  neat  little  post 
village  of  Bloomingdale,  eight  miles  from  Franklin  Falls, 
whence  we  may  take  our  choice  of  roads — to  Smith’s  10  miles, 
to  Martin’s  10  miles,  and  to  Cox’s  15  miles.  We  will  take  the 
first-named  route,  and  after  traversing  what  seems  to  us  fully 
thirty  miles  of  road,  much  of  it  recently  cut  through  the  vir- 
gin forest,  but  in  very  good  condition,  and  accompanied  all 
the  way  by  a telegraph  line,  we  shall  be  deposited  on  the  long 
piazza  at  “ Paul  Smith’s  ” tired  enough  to  be  contented  with 
the  most  uncomfortable  quarters,  and  hungry  enough  to  de- 
vour without  question  the  least  inviting  of  fare. 

Paul  Smith’s  and  Its  Luxuries. 

But  our  heroism  will  not  be  put  to  any  very  severe  test. 
Those  who  have  paid  previous  visits  here  know,  and  all  who 
come  here  for  the  first  time  are  lost  in  wonder  at  discovering 
that  rooms  as  airy  and  large,  beds  as  comfortable,  table  linen 
as  snowy,  silver  as  bright  and  viands  incomparably  better 
than  those  of  the  fashionable  watering-place  hotels  are  here 
to  be  found.  A supper  of  lake  trout,  venison  steak,  waffles 
and  honey,  with  excellent  tea  or  coffee,  in  Paul  Smith’s  cool, 
airy  dining  room,  and  a night’s  sleep  in  one  of  his  large,  clean 
chambers,  are  calculated  to  make  the  vayfaring  man  feel  at 


174 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


peace  with  himself  and  with  all  mankind.  Apollos  A.  Smith, 
whom  everybody  calls  “ Pol  ” or  “ Paul  ” for  short,  is  one  of 
the  oldest  and  best  known  of  Adirondack  landlords.  He 
settled  here  in  186i  on  the  shores  of  the  Lower  St.  Riges, 
and  soon  his  quiet  cottage  became  locally  famous  as  a resting- 
place  and  headquarters  for  sportsmen  who  penetrated  the 
North  Woods.  The  region  grew  famous,  and  Paul,  having 
that  born  instinct  which  alone  can  make  a successful  hotel- 
keeper,  enlarged  his  borders  from  time  to  time  till  now  he 
has  a fine  three-story  house  with  accommodations  for  lOO 
guests,  large  stables  for  his  own  horses  and  those  of  guests 
who  come  in  their  own  turnouts,  and  a big  boat  house  on  the 
sandy  lake  beach,  a few  rods  from  the  house.  In  this  last 
building  a hundred  of  the  light,  graceful  and  staunch  boats  in 
universal  use  on  these  waters  are  ‘‘  pigeon-holed,”  with  sterns 
to  the  water,  reminding  one  of  the  scene  in  ‘‘  Lucrezia 
Borgia,”  where  that  estimable  lady  displays  her  facilities  in 
the  amateur  undertaking  business.  These  boats  are  all  ident- 
ical in  size  and  build,  are  numbered  from  i up,  and  resemble 
very  much  the  famous  Whitehall  boats,  except  that  they  are 
lighter.  From  the  boat  house  to  the  water’s  edge  a sloping 
platform  of  plank  enables  the  rower  to  slide  his  boat  out  of 
water.  About  the  boat  house  and  the  stables,  will  be  seen  a 
number  of  men  in  rough  serviceable  garb,  many  of  them 
young,  and  all  straight  as  Indians  and  almost  as  brown ; with 
athletic  frames,  brawny  hands  and  open,  frank  countenances ; 
these  are  the  guides.  They  may  be  engaged  for  the  service 
of  parties  desiring  to  camp  in  the  woods  or  on  the  ponds  in 
the  vicinity,  for  fishing  and  hunting  purposes,  or  to  convey 
parties  down  the  lakes  to  Martin’s,  Bartlett’s,  Cox’s  or  else- 
where. A finer  set  of  fellows  one  need  not  seek,  if  he  but 
respect  their  sturdy  independence  and  follow  out  the  Golden 
Rule  in  his  treatment  of  them.  By  far  the  pleasantest  way 
of  reaching  the  points  enumerated  above,  is  by  boat  through 
the  lakes,  though  the  stages  make  daily  trips.  To  gain  the 
best  idea  of  this  wonderful  region  we  will  take  to  the  boats. 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


175 


A Boat  Tiip  Through  the  Lako. 

We  will  take  with  us  only  a light  travelling  bag  each,  with 
a change  of  clothing  and  toilet  articles.  We  shall  have  pro- 
vided ourselves  with  some  old  clothes,  the  ladies  with  flannel 
or  waterproof  travelling  suits;  the  men  with  tweed  or  other 
stout  clothing,  flannel  shirts,  and  all  with  thick  boots  or  shoes. 
Thus  equipped,  with  the  addition  ot  the  necessary  guns  and  fish- 
ing tackle,  we  are  ready  to  set  out.  The  guides  will  provide 
boats  and  oars,  yokes  to  carry  the  boats  over  the  portages, 
and  the  necessary  strength  and  experience  for  managing  them. 
Setting  out  from  Paul  Smith’s,  we  pull  across  the  lower  St. 
Regis,  southwardly,  to  its  outlet,  abroad,  deep  creek,  through 
which  we  glide,  amid  the  fragrance-laden  waterlilies,  which 
almost  impede  our  progress,  so  plentiful  are  they;  past  the 
pine-crowned  points  and  the  tamarack-skirted  lowlands,  out 
into  Spitfire  pond,  whose  waves  are  gaily  dancing  in  the 
morning  light,  to  the  rustling  music  of  a fresh  breeze.  Cross- 
ing this  small  but  sprightly  body  of  water,  our  boats  glide 
through  a narrow  creek  to  the  St.  Regis  Lake,  a beautiful 
sheet,  which  gives  its  name  to  this  entire  northern  chain. 
When  we  touch  its  southern  shore,  our  guides  leap  out  and 
drag  the  boats  ashore.  There  is  a “ carry  *’  or  portage  of  a mile 
and  a half,  by  a crooked  trail,  through  a dense  wood.  Formerly 
the  guides  carried  the  boats  by  means  of  the  yokes,  which 
resemble  those  used  by  maple  sugar  makers  to  carry  the 
buckets  of  sap,  but  now  the  boats  are  dragged  by  horse-power, 
on  a kind  ot  big  sled  or  jumper,  by  which  means  “ old  San- 
guemaire,”  a French  half-breed,  living  on  the  southern  side 
of  the  carry,  earns  an  honest  livelihood.  We  trudge  through 
the  wo<  ds,  perhaps  bagging  a squirrel  or  two  by  the  way,  and 
again  launch  our  skiffs  on  the  waters  of  Big  Clear  Lake,  and 
pull  southward  across  its  dancing  waters.  Soon  we  drift  into 
its  outlet,  a broad  quiet  creek,  now  deep  and  sluggish,  by 
reason  of  a mill  dam  below,  which  soon  compels  our  guides 
to  shoulder  and  carry  the  boats  around  it.  As  they  march  off 


176 


TOURISTS^  HAND  Book. 


in  single  file,  with  the  boats  on  their  backs,  bottom  up,  they 
look  oddly  like  huge  mud  turtles.  Launching  again,  below 
the  mill,  we  soon  emerge  from  the  winding  stream,  into  the 
upper  Saranac  Lake,  the  largest  and  finest  of  the  chain.  We 
pull  across  its  clear  and  lively  waters  to  the  western  shore, 
where  near  the  head,  stands  Cox’s  Upper  Saranac  Lake  House, 
a fine  new  structure,  with  rooms  for  100  guests,  and  a table 
supplied  with  the  best  of  forest  cheer.  Here  we  shall  find  it 
convenient  and  expedient  to  dine,  before  attacking  the  eight 
mile  pull  down  the  Upper  Saranac  Lake.  We  start  afresh 
after  dinner,  and  traverse  the  length  of  the  beautiful  lake  ; past 
shores  of  bold,  precipitous  rock,  fringed  with  evergreens;  past 
sailing  loons,  whose  slim  necks  alone  emerge  from  the  waves, 
and  at  which  we  fire  and  don’t  hit, ; past  bays  and  creeks,  and  all 
the  beauties  of  lake  and  mountain  scenery,  and  emerge  into 
the  Saranac  river,  the  outlet  of  this  lake,  and  soon  reach  Bart- 
lett’s Sportman’s  Home,  a long,  rambling  house,  chiefiy  piazza, 
where  a smoking  supper  and  a night’s  rest  awaits  us.  The 
river  falls  some  60  feet  here,  so  in  the  morning  oUr  boats 
are  carried  around  and  we  again  start  down  the  Saranac 
River,  and  float  out  upon  Round  Lake,  a lovely  sheet  of 
water,  smooth  and  clear  as  glass  in  the  early  morning,  but 
apt  to  be  fretted  by  winds  later  in  the  day.  Our  course 
changes  here,  and  we  pull  across  this  lake,  some  four  miles, 
in  a northerly  direction,  and  again  follow  the  course  of  the 
Saranac  river,  3 miles  to  the  Lower  lake  of  the  same  name.  On 
the  way  we  shoot  a rapid  ofeightfeetfall,  if  we  are  brave  enough 
to  stay  in  our  boats  and  try  it ; if  not,  we  walk  around  and 
see  the  guides  do  it.  If  we  choose  to  stop  and  ‘‘drop  a line” 
here,  we  shall  be  quite  likely  to  catch  some  fine  trout  in  these 
rapids.  As  we  enter  the  Lower  Saranac  Lake,  Ampersand 
Mountain  looms  on  our  right,  south  of  the  lake,  and  Saranac 
mountain  on  our  left.  West;  straight  ahead,  but  afar  off,  old 
Whiteface  towers  aloft,  and  in  the  distance,  to  our  right,  we 
get  occasional  glimpses  of  Mounts  Seward  and  Marcy.  Amper- 
sand mountain  may  be  ascended,  if  we  care  for  a three  hours’ 


7'OURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


177 


climb,  and  the  view  from  its  summit  (embracing  the  lakes  we 
have  traversed,  as  well  as  Long  Lake,  to  the  South,  and  the 
Tupper  Lakes  to  the  West,  the  mountain  peaks  far  and  near, 
the  Saranac  valley,  and  the  beautiful  and  sequestered  Amper- 
sand Pond,  to  the  south  of  the  mountain)  is  worthy  the  ex- 
ertion. We  are  now  passing  a frowning  wall  of  rock,  rising 
150  feet  perpendicularly  out  of  the  water,  and  wooded  at  the 
top,  and  soon  we  see  a guideboard  bearing  the  words  ^‘Jacob’s 
Well.”  Here  is  a splendid  living  spring  of  pure  sweet  water, 
very  refreshing  to  our  throats,  after  our  lively  rowing.  Hence 
we  lay  our  course  down  the  lake,  six  miles  in  length,  to 
Martin’s.  This  lake  is  diversified,  and  most  beautifully,  too, 
by  over  50  islands,  of  which  Eagle  Island  is  the  largest.  We 
skim  lightly  by  the  rocky  headlands,  and  the  tree-studded 
islets,  and  in  due  time  we  draw  alongside  the  little  wharf  in 
a beautiful  bay  at  the  northeastern  extremity  of  the  lake,  and 
directly  in  front  of  Martin’s  Saranac  Lake  House.  Here  we 
meet  cordial  welcome  from  William  F.  Martin,  one  of  the  very 
best  fellows  in  this  wilderness,  and  who,  by  his  enterprise  and 
courtesy  has  reared,  from  the  beginning  made  in  1849,  ^ house 
of  three  stories,  accommodating  200  guests,  and  just  as  com- 
fortable and  well  kept  as  any  other  hotel  in  this  vale  of  tears. 
Martin  is  a thorough  woodsman  and  a genial  host,  and  it  is  a 
treat  to  sit  on  his  piazza  of  an  evening,  looking  out  across  the 
lake,  and  listening  to  hi^  stories  of  the  early  days  of  hotel 
keeping  in  the  Adirondacks, 

Martin’s,  as  has  been  stated,  is  about  the  same  distance  from 
Plattsburg  as  Paul  Smith’s  — 37  miles  — and  is  frequently 
taken  as  thepointof  departure  for  the  tour  of  the  lakes,  instead 
of  Smith’s  ; in  which  case  the  route  we  have  passed  over  will  be 
reversed.  The  tourists  who  propose  to  visit  Tupper,  Long  and 
Raquette  Lakes,  Mounts  Seward  and  Marcy,  and  the  Indian 
Pass,  generally  make  Martin’s  their  rendezvous,  and  start 
thence  with  their  guides  and  supplies  up  the  Saranac  Lake. 
Martin’s  being  on  the  regular  stage  road  and  having  mail  and 
telegraphic  facilities,  the  same  as  those  at  Smith’s,  is  in 
every  way  a desirable  headquarters. 


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TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


A Visit  to  the  Southern  Lakes. 

A reference  to  the  map  will  show  in  the  southwestern  por- 
tion of  the  Adirondack  region,  a cluster  of  large  lakes  con- 
nected by  the  Raquette  river.  These  are  the  Tapper  Lakes, 
Big  and  Little,  Long  Lake,  Forked  Lake,  Raquette  Lake  and 
a little  chain  of  small  ponds  leading  from  the  last  named  and 
terminating  in  Blue  Mountain  Lake.  The  tour  of  all  these 
lakes  is  made  from  Martin’s  by  two  routes,  one  leading  west 
to  the  Tapper  Lakes,  and  the  other  south  to  the  Raquette, 
Long  and  Forked  Lake  chain.  Taking  the  western  route 
first,  we  proceed  up  the  lake  and  across  Round  Lake  to 
Bartlett’s;  thence  two  miles  west  to  the  old  “ Sweenej  Cary” 
now  operated  by  the  Daniels  Brothers,  who  haul  our  boats 
across  a neck  of  land  three  miles  wide,  and  launch  them  in 
the  Raquette  river.  Eleven  miles  of  tortuous  gliding  bring 
us  to  the  outlet  of  Big  Tapper  Lake,  where  Martin  Moody,  an 
old  guide,  has  built  a house  with  accouimodations  for  fifty 
guests,  and  has  a large  congregation  of  sportsmen  each  sum- 
mer. 


Big  Tapper  Lake. 

This  is  a beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by  ridges  of 
mountains  and  by  primeval  forests ; stretching  away  seven 
miles  to  the  south  and  spreading  out  from  one  to  three  miles 
wide,  dotted  with  islands,  bordered  by  beautiful  bays  with 
green  valleys  rising  from  their  heads,  and  with  all  the  placid 
serenity  that  marks  the  quiet  of  this  great  wilderness.  On 
Bluff  Island,  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the  lake,  is  a precipice 
overhanging  the  water,  known  as  the  Devil’s  Pulpit ; and  at 
the  head  of  the  lake.  Bog  river  makes  its  way  to  the  ^ower 
level  by  a fall  resembling  a sheet  of  silver,  over  a rocky  ledge. 
From  Big  Tapper,  a seldom  traversed  route  leads  south, 
through  Round  Pond,  to  Little  Tapper  Lake,  which  is  six 
miles  long,  with  high,  rocky  shores,  numerous  island§k  and 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


179 


beautiful  scenery.  The  Wolf  Pond  route,  so  called,  passss 
from  the  outlet  of  Big  Tupper,  by  a sweeping  curve  to  the 
northeast,  to  Cox’s  on  Upper  Saranac  Lake,  thirty  miles  dis- 
tant, by  way  of  a chain  of  small  ponds.  From  the  same 
point  a twenty  mile  trip,  including  eight  miles  of  carries^ 
brings  us  to  Cranberry  Lake,  one  of  the  largest  of  the  whole 
region,  being  fifteen  miles  long  and  discharging  through  the 
Oswegatchie  river,  and  another  trip  of  fifteen  miles  brings  to 
the  most  desolate  and  lonesome  (but  most  prolific  in  game) 
of  these  waters.  Mud  Lake.  It  is  seven  miles  south  of  Cran- 
berry Lake,  and  is  but  four  miles  in  circumference.  Still 
another  route  is  through  Little  Tupper  and  a chain  of  ponds  to 
Long  Lake.  The  usual  route  to  Long,  Forked  and  Raquette 
lakes,  however,  lies  south  from  Martin’s  via  Saranac  and 
Round  lakes  to  Bartlett’s,  thence  by  the  Indian  Carry  of 
one  mile  to  the  Stony  Creek  ponds,  three  in  number,  con- 
nected by  narrow  passages,  and  thence  through  Stony  Creek, 
a narrow,  tortuous  stream,  for  three  miles  to  its  outlet  into  the 
Raquette  river,  twenty  miles  above  Tupper  Lake.  A striking 
panorama  of  woodland  scenery  is  presented  as  we  ascend  the 
river  to  Raquette’s  Falls,  six  miles,  where  is  a carry  of  a mile 
and  aquarter,  and  where  stands  “ Mother  Johnson’s,”  renowned 
for  pancakes,  and  noted  in  every  tourist’s  description.  The 
old  lady  herself,  after  entertaining  thousands  of  guests  during 
her  stay  in  the  quaint  old  log  cabin,  and  gaining  a fame 
excelled  by  no  one  in  the  region,  died  in  the  early  spring  of 
187s,  and  her  body  was  tenderly  carried  by  the  guides  some 
thirty  miles  down  the  Raquette  and  laid  to  rest. 

Long  Lake  and  Its  Scenery. 

Six  miles  more  pulling  bring  us  to  the  foot  or  northern  ex- 
tremity of  Long  Lake,  which  is  simply  a widening  of  the 
Raquette  river,  or  else  the  river  is  simply  the  thread  on  which 
Long  Lake  is  strung.  It  is  a handsome  body  of  water,  four- 
teen miles  long  and  a mile  wide  at  its  widest  point.  It  has 


i8o 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


several  islands,  one  of  which  supports  a small  inn,  owned  by 
John  Davies,  who  also  keeps  the  famous  “Aunt  Polly” 
tavern  at  Newcomb,  thirteen  miles  southeast.  He  maintains 
communication  between  the  two  houses,  by  a rorfiantic  forest 
route,  through  five  small  ponds  and  Catlin  Lake,  a body  of 
water  three  miles  long,  and  famous  for  its  camping  grounds. 
Long  Lake  is  surrounded  by  mountains.  Owl’s  Head,  Mount 
Kempshall,  Buck  Mountain  and  Blueberry  Mountain,  and  on 
the  east  bank,  three  and  a half  miles  from  the  head  or  south- 
ern end,  is  Long  Lake  Village,  or  “ Gougeville,”  where  is 
Kellogg’s  famous  hostelry,  and  where  several  famili^  of  noted 
guides  reside.  There  is  a little  church,  a school-house,  a 
store  and  post-office  here,  and  many  visitors  to  the  Raquette 
region  make  their  headquarters  at  Kellogg’s.  Round  Island 
lies  about  midway  of  the  lake,  and  is  a beautiful  little  gem  of 
living  green.  Little  Tupper  Lake  is  reached  from  Kellogg’s 
by  a tedious  route  of  lo  or  12  miles,  which  passes  "through 
Slim  and  Mud  Ponds,  and  consumes  a whole  day.  Owl’s 
Head  Mountain  is  ascended  by  the  aid  of  guides,  and  a fine 
view  is  obtained  from  its  summit.  Near  Kellogg’s  is  a float- 
ing bridge  across  the  lake,  and  beneath  a portion  of  it  is 
passage  for  boats.  Four  miles  from  the  village,  the  head  of 
the  lake  is  reached,  and  here  the  Raquette  river  enters  it,  over 
rapids  necessitating  a half-mile  carry.  Then  it  is  fair  paddling 
again  for  a mile  up  stream  to  Buttermilk  Falls,  which  are 
generally  considered  the  original  of  Murray’s  Phantom  Falls. 
The  descent  is  about  20  feet,  over  a rugged  ledge,  with  bould- 
ers which  churn  the  water  into  a froth.  A short  carry  here, 
then  a mile  and  a half  of  boating,  another  carry  of  a mile 
and  a half,  and  we  reach  Forked  Lake.  This  expansion  of 
the  Raquette  river  is  an  irregular  and  very  romantic  pond, 
three  miles  long,  with  wooded  shores  and  some  fin^  scenery. 
It  boasts  an  attachment.  Little  Forked  Lake,  through  which, 
and  a siring  of  ponds  with  intervening  carries,  a twelve-mile 
route  to  Little  Tupper  lies.  This  whole  country  is  so  filled 
with  lakes  and  ponds  that  you  can  go  anywhere  you  choose 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


l8l 

\Vith  a boat,  alternately  carrying  the  boat  and  having  the  boat 
carry  you. 

Raquette  Lake  and  its  Tributaries. 

From  this  body  of  water  a half-mile  portage  brings  us  to 
Raquette  Lake,  twelve  miles  long  and  from  one  to  five  miles 
wide ; one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  Adirondack  waters, 
and  destined  to  be  the  favorite,  when  hotels  and  other  pro- 
ducts of  civilization  shall  shed  their  ameliorating  illumination 
upon  its  dark  waters,  so  to  speak.  Meantime,  only  enthusi- 
astic sportsmen  and  hardy  tourists  find  their  way  hither. 
Cary’s  Hotel,  a rude  and  small  house,  is  the  only  hotel  on  the 
lake,  and  nearly  every  one  who  comes  hither  camps  out. 
Beach’s  Island,  a beautifully  wooded  and  symmetrical  islet; 
Murray’s  Island,  the  camping  ground  of  the  celebrated  preach- 
er, and  the  numerous  points  which  project  from  the  shores 
are  used  for  camping.  The  old  State  road  from  Crown  Point 
to  Carthage,  ^vhich  was  formerly  a travelled  way  through  this 
region,  passes  Cary’s,  and  it  is  only  14  miles  to  Long  Lake 
Viliage,  but  of  late  years  it  is  seldom  used,  and  has  degener- 
ated into  a mere  trail.  The  lake  is  surrounded  by  pictur- 
esque mountains,  and  is  deeply  embayed  on  nearly  every 
side ; Marryatt’s  Bay,  Eagle  Bay,  North  Bay  and  South  Bay 
being  the  principal  arms  of  the  lake.  Little  Tupper  Lake  is 
accessible  from  Raquette  also,  by  an  18  mile  route  embracing 
Beach’s  and  Salmon  Lakes  and  two  or  three  carries.  Shallow 
Lake,  reached  by  an  inlet  from  the  west  shore,  and  a group  of 
neighboring  ponds  are  famous  retreats  for  trout. 

The  John  Brown  Tract. 

A pull  of  four  miles  up  the  Brown  Tract  Inlet,  from  the 
south-west  point  of  Raquette  Lake,  and  a carry  of  a mile  and 
a half  bring  us  to  the  upper  or  eighth  of  the  Fulton  chain  of 
lakes,  which  extend  southwesterly  into  the  “John  Brown 
Tract,”  so-called.  The  ardent  hunter,  who  has  not  yet  gained 
enough  experience  of  the  lakes  and  mountains,  follows  this 


I&2 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


route,  which  brings  him  into  the  Eighth  Lake  first,  passes  by 
portage  to  the  Seventh,  and  can  go  directly  by  boating  into 
the  Sixth.  The  Sixth  and  Fifth  are  quite  small ; and  there  is 
a portage  between  Sixth  and  Fifth,  and  also  one  between 
Fifth  and  Fourth.  Fourth  Lake  is  the  largest  of  the  chain, 
and  has  a number  of  inlands  in  it.  The  shores  are  high,  and 
rise  in  rapid  ascents.  Hemlock  grows  down  to  the  edge  of 
the  water ; and  in  the  undisturbed  repose  of  the  waters  the 
fringes  of  foliage  are  clearly  reflected.  In  the  centre  of  the 
lake  is  a beautiful  group  of  rocks  known  as  Elba*  There  is  a 
passage  for  boats  into  Third  Lake,  close  by  which  Bald  Moun- 
tain frowns  down ; and  the  passage  continues  open  to  Second 
Lake.  Second  is  hardly  distinguishable  from  First,  there  be. 
ing  a mere  sand-bar  separating  them.  The  Adirondack  Rail- 
road will  pass  just  north  of  these  lakes. 

The  southwestern  part  of  the  Adirondack  region,  known  as 
the  John  Brown  Tract,  reaches  into  Lewis  and  Hamilton 
counties,  but  is  mostly  included  in  Herkimer  county.  In 
area  it  is  about  twenty  miles  square,  and  is  supposed  by  many 
to  take  its  name  from  the  hero  of  North  Elba,  but  such  is  not 
the  fact.  John  Brown  was  a merchant  of  Providence,  R.  I., 
and  coming  hither  in  1792,  bought  this  tract,  which  he  divided 
into  eight  townships  named  Industry,  Enterprise,  Persever- 
ance, Unanimity,  Frugality,  Sobriety,  Economy  and  Regular- 
ity. In  1812,  Brown’s  nephew,  Charles  Herreshoff,  tried  to 
found  colonies  in  these  model  townships,  and  incurred  great 
expenses  for  clearings,  mills,  etc.  A large  number  of  people 
from  the  seaboard  attempted  a permanent  settlement,  l)ut 
many  discouragements  appeared  to  thwart  them;  work  upon 
the  tract  was  abandoned ; Herreshoff  suicided  after  a seven 
years’  struggle  with  fate,  and  the  solitude  of  the  unbroken 
wilderness  again  resumed  its  sway.  This  section  is  only 
visited  by  hunters  and  fishermen,  and  they  succeed  in  their 
designs  upon  the  game  and  the  fish. 

The  Eckford  Chain  of  Lakes. 

But  after  this  long  digression,  we  must  get  back  to  Raquette 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK.  183 

Lake,  whence,  by  the  Marion  river,  the  principal  feeder  of  the 
lake,  we  make  our  way  through  Utowanna  and  Eagle  Lakes,  to 
Blue  Mountain  Lake,  the  gem  of  the  southern  Adirondack 
waters.  Austin’s  Hotel,  between  Eagle  and  Blue  Mountain 
lakes,  is  a favorite  resort  of  sportsmen,  and  “ Ned  Buntline  ” 
(E.  Z.  C.  Judson),  has  a lodge  on  the  shore  of  the  former. 
These  pretty  lakelets,  the  Eckford  chain,  as  they  are  some- 
times called,  are  the  headwaters  of  the  Raquette,  and  Mount 
Emmons,  or  Blue  Mountain,  which  overlooks  the  lake  bear- 
ing its  name,  is  ascended  by  a trail  on  its  western  slope.  It 
is  3,595  feet  high,  and  its  summit  having  been  cleared  of  trees 
during  the  State  survey  of  1873,  a magnificent  panorama  is 
spread  out  before  the  visitor  who  stands  on  its  top.  Blue 
Mountain  Lake,  by  the  route  we  have  come,  is  fifty-five  miles 
from  Kellogg’s,  but  as  we  have  described  a deep  loop  in  onr 
journey,  only  five  miles  separates  us  from  Kellogg’s  now. 
The  mountain  divide  and  South  Pond,  with  a mile’s  portage 
are  the  obstacles.  The  mountain  trail  is  arduous,  but  the 
guides  often  attempt  it  in  preference  to  going  back. 

The  Southern  Adirondacks. 

From  Long  Lake  Village  a weekly  mail  stage  or  private 
conveyance  may  be  taken  for  a trip  to  the  deserted  Adirondack 
iron  works.  Mount  Marcy  and  the  Indian  Pass.  Th^  State 
military  road,  previously  mentioned,  runs  due  east  almost  for 
forty-two  miles,  along  a route  alternating  mountain,  forest 
and  lake  scenery,  and  is  sufficiently  rough  to  give  any  one 
a wolfish  appetite  every  five  miles,  to  Root’s,  a famous 
resort  for  sportmen,  with  accommodations  for  forty  or  fifty 
guests.  Thence  the  roads  diverge ; one  to  Ticonderoga, 
twenty-three  miles  southeast,  passing  Paradox  Lake  and 
Long  Pond ; another  to  Crown  Point,  eighteen  miles  north- 
east; a third  south  to  Schroon  Lake,  nine  miles,  and  the 
fourth  north  to  Elizabethtown,  twenty-two  miles.  But  we 
stop  nineteen  miles  short  of  Root’s,  at  Tahawus  or  Lower 
Works.  Here  the  Hudson  or  North  river,  a narrow  creek  at 


184  TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 

this  point,  was  utilized  to  furnish  power  for  the  iron  works, 
and  the  dam  which  once  spanned  it  flooded  the  valley  up  to 
Lake  Sanford,  flve  miles  above,  and  barges  plied  between  the 
Lower  and  the  Upper  Works.  The  road  north  to  the  Upper 
Works  or  Adirondack,  is  picturesque  and  full  of  interest.  The 
distance  is  eleven  miles,  five  of  which  are  along  the  shores  of 
the  mountain-walled  Lake  Sanford.  Reaching  Adirondack, 
a scene  rarely  to  be  witnessed  in  America  is  presented  — a 
ruined  village  — and  it  was  formerly  a manufacturing  village, 
too.  The  tall  chimneys,  the  furnaces,  the  old  school-house, 
the  church  and  the  dwellings  of  the  workmen,  all  are  aban- 
doned. Only  Moore’s,  a small  and  modest  house  of  resort,  is 
occupied.  The  history  of  this  place  is  brief.  In  1826,  an  In- 
dian discovered  immense  deposits  of  iron,  and  a dam  of  almost 
pure  ore  across  the  river  at  this  place,  and  reported  his  find  to 
Messrs.  Henderson,  McMartin  and  Mclntire  who  had  iron 
works  at  North  Elba.  They  secured  the  whole  territory,  built 
forges,  furnaces  and  a road  to  Lake  Champlain  and  began 
operations.  A busy  and  thriving  village  sprung  into  exist- 
ence, but  the  venture  proved  unsuccessful,  the  cost  of  getting 
the  iron  to  market  being  too  heavy,  and  Mr.  Henderson,  the 
head  of  the  firm,  being  accidently  killed  in  1845,  the  Upper 
Works  were  in  1848  abandoned,  and  the  Lower  Works  soon 
after,  since  which  time  the  villages  have  gone  to  decay.  Only 
the  names  of  the  three  unfortunate  speculators  are  perpetu- 
ated in  Mounts  Henderson,  McMartin  and  Mclntire,  and 
Lake  Henderson.  The  Preston  Ponds  lie  two  miles  north- 
west, and  six  miles  further  in  the  same  direction  is  the  grand 
peak  of  Mount  Seward,  4,348  feet  high.  Mount  Marcy  (called 
by  the  Indians  Tahawus,  the  Cloud  Piercer  or  Sky  Splitter), 
the  monarch  of  this  region,  towers  to  the  height  of  5,333  feet, 
to  the  northeast,  and  is  ascended  by  a trail  which  necessitates 
twelve  miles  of  arduous  climbing.  The  ascent  can  only  be 
made  by  strong  and  indomitable  climbers,  by  the  aid  of 
guides.  Six  miles  from  Adirondack,  Lake  Colden,  a moun- 
tain embosomed  pond,  2,851  feet  above  the  tide  is  reached. 


TOURiStS^  HANDBOOK 


185 


and  from  it  foanis  and  dashes  tlie  Opalescent  river.  Far  up 
the  gorge  of  the  same  name  is  seen  Gray  Peak,  on  which  is 
Summit- Water,  a clean  pond  4,293  feet  above  the  sea,  whence 
flows  the  stieam  which  afterwards  becomes  the  mighty  Hud- 
son. One  mile  beyond  Lake  Golden  is  Avalanche  Lake,  sur- 
rounded by  mountain  peaks,  and  soon  the  slopes  of  Tahawus 
tower  above  us.  A steady  climb  brings  us  to  the  summit, 
whence  the  descent  may  be  made  to  Keeene  on  the  east  side 
of  the  mountains. 

The  Adirondack,  or  Indian  Pass. 

Contin  iing  our  journey  northwardly  from  Adirondack,  we 
pass  thr  ugh  the  celebrated  Adirondack  or  Indian  Pass,  a 
great  gorge  between  Mount  Wallface  on  the  left  and  Mount 
Meintire  on  the  right.  Its  highest  point  is  2901  feet  above 
the  sea  level,  and  for  a mile  old  Wallface  rises  in  an  almost 
perpendicular  precipice  over  1300  feet  high.  The  scene  is 
one  of  \^ilT  and  savage  magnificence.  The  path  is  rugged 
and  arduous,  many  times  crossing  the  mountain  torrent  that 
makes  its  way  through  the  pass  Great  jagged  masses  of 
rock  obstruct  the  way,  and  the  climb  upward  to  the  ridge,  or 
“divide,”  is  enough  to  tax  the  stoutest  legs  and  wear  out  the 
stoutest  boots.  The  scene  from  the  divide  is  thus  graphically 
sketched  by  Stoddard  : 

“ At  last  we  near  the  summit  and  stand  on  Lookout  Point; 
close  by  rises  that  grand  wall  a thousand  feet  up  and  extend- 
ing three  hundred  feet  below  us ; reaching  out  north  and 
south,,  maje  tic,  solemn  and  impressive  in  its  nearness ; a 
long  line  of  great  fragments  have  fallen,  year  by  year,  from 
the  cliff  ab  ve,  and  now  lie  at  its  foot;  around  on  everj^  side 
huge  caverns  yawn  and  mighty  rocks  rear  their  heads,  where 
He  who  rules  the  earthquake  cast  them  centuries  ago.  Along 
back,  down  the  gorge  we  look,  to  where,  five  miles  away,  and 
1300  feet  below  us,  is  Lake  Henderson,  a shining  drop  in  the 
bottom. of  a great  emerald  bowl.” 


INDIAN  PASS, 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


187 


Here  we  leave  the  head  waters  of  the  Hudson  behind,  and 
descending  by  a route  similar  to  that  by  which  we  have 
climbed  from  Adirondack,  we  follow  the  course  of  the  Ausa- 
ble,  which  takds  its  rise  in  this  same  notch,  and  passing 
through  a dense  forest,  we  reach,  after  five  miles  of  tramping 
from  the  divide,  the  little  hamlet  of  North  Elba. 

Near  this  point  is  the  farm  of  old  John  Brown,  of  Ossawot- 
tomie,  the  hero  of  Kansas  and  of  Harper’s  Ferry,  and  the 
huge  bowlder  by  which  he  is  buried,  can  be  seen  from  the 
road.  The  farm  is  now  the  property  of  an  association  formed 
by  Miss  Kate  Field.  From  this  point  the  road  runs  northwest 
nine  miles  to  Blood’s,  a tavern  of  some  repute  in  the  Saranac 
valley,  and  one  mile  further,  reaches  Martin’s.  East  from 
North  Elba  two  miles,  is  Scott’s  tavern,  twelve  miles  further, 
over  a most  romantic  route  through  a mountain  pass,  is 
Keene,  and  ten  miles  further  is  Elizabethtown,  a beautiful 
village  eight  miles  northwest  of  Westport,  on  the  Boquet 
River,  and  encircled  by  mountain  peaks. 

Elizabethtown  and  its  Objects  of  Interest. 

This  town,  which  lies  in  the  centre  of  Essex  County,  is  also 
reached  by  stage  from  Point  of  Rocks  on  the  Ausable  River. 
This  is  a favorite  resort  of  quiet  people,  artists,  ladies,  and 
families  who  do  not  wish  to  get  far  from  the  base  of  home 
supplies.  The  hotels  there  are  numerous,  elegant,  and  well 
furnished,  and  naturally  are  well  filled  in  the  summer.  There 
are  two  high  summits  on  the  west,  of  which  the  southermost 
(called  the  giant  of  the-  Valley)  is  one  of  the  highest 
of  the  range.  There  is  a perpendicular  precipice  on  the 
north  side  of  this,  nearly  700  feet  high.  Five  miles  to  the 
northwest  is  Hurricane  Peak,  a pyramid  of  naked  rocks, 
graceful  in  shape,  rising  from  a densely  wooded  base.  Cobble 
Hill,  one  mile  we^^t  of  the  village,  has  a precipice  200 
feet  high  on  the  east  side  of  it.  The  valley  of  the  Bo- 
quet runs  eight  miles  south-west  from  Elizabethtown.  At 
the  head  of  this  valley,  the  Boquet  has  a fall  of  100  feet, 


TOURISTS^  handbook. 


i88 

through  a narrow  gorge,  over  an  inclined  plane  of  rough 
and  broken  rocks.  Black  Pond  is  one  mile  long  and  half  a 
mile  wide;  it  is  six  miles  south-east  of  the  village,  and  well 
stored  with  fish.  On  the  south-east  of  the  town  is  a hill 
200  feet  high,  covering  40  acres,  supposed  to  be  nearly 
ly  a solid  mass  of  iron  ore.  In  the  south-west  the  Ausable 
Ponds  may  be  visited  from  Elizabethtown.  These  ponds,  two 
in  number,  — the  Upper  and  Lower,  — are  in  the  south  part 
of  the  town  of  Keene,  in  the  midst  of  scenery  bold  and  wild. 
Hurricane  Mountain  and  Skylight  are  easily  reached  from 
Ausable  Ponds.  Deep  gorges,  lovely  little  ponds,  and  wild 
cascades  are  found  in  the  vicinity.  About  one-eighth  of  a 
mile  west  of  the  road  leading  from  Keene  Flats  to  Ausable 
Ponds,  are  the  falls  of  the  Ausable  River,  known  as  Russell’s 
Falls.  Here  the  water  darts  through  a crooked  passage 
one-third  of  a mile  long,  in  which  space  it  makes  a de- 
scent of  150  feet,  between  rocky  banks  that  rise  to  the 
height  of  200  feet.  Two  miles  farther  up  the  Ausable, 
are  similar  falls,  known  as  Beaver  Meadow  Falls.  Rain- 
bow Falls  are  one-eighth  of  a mile  north-west  of  the 
Lower  Ausable  Pond,  and  have  125  feet  of  perpendicular 
descent.  Roaring  Brook  Falls,  four  miles  east  of  Rainow, 
bow,  consist  of  two  separate  falls,  — one  over  a vertical 
precipice  into  a deep  gorge,  the  other  250  feet  along  a groove 
worn  into  the  solid  rock.  Chapel  Pond,  the  source  of  Roar- 
ing Brook,  is  about  a mile  east  of  Roaring  Brook  Falls,  in 
a deep  ravine  between  the  Ausable  and  Boquet  Rivers. 

Lake  Placid  and  the  Wilmington  Pass. 

From  North  Elba  nearly  every  sojourner  pays  a visit  to 
Lake  Placid,  one  of  the  loveliest  of  mountain  lakes,  lying 
high  up  among  the  peaks  which  circle  it  on  every  side.  It 
lies  two  miles  north  of  the  village,  and  is  five  miles  long  by 
two  wide.  Three  islands  nearly  divide  it  midway,  and  Mount 
Whiteface  overlooks  it  on  the  northeast.  Sugar  Loaf  towers 
on  the  west  in  dark,  stern  ridges,  and  tall  peaks  stand  senti- 


WHITE  FACE  MOUNTAIN  FROM  LAKE  PLACID. 


1 90  TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK,  . 

nels  on  the  east.  Near  its  southern  shore  stand  the  large 
boarding  houses  of  Nash  and  Brew.ster,  with  accommodations 
for  from  60  to  8o  guests,  and  fishermen  find  in  its  clear  depths 
ample  rewards  for  “ dropping  a line.”  v 

The  Wilmington  Pass  or  Notch  is  the  local  title  of  the  nar- 
row valley  through  which  the  Ausable  pours  the  waters  of  its 
west  fork,  which  takes  its  rise  in  Lake  Placid,  and  through 
which  the  carriage  road  from  Wilmington  to  North  Elba, 
twelve  miles,  has  been  constructed  with  immense  "labor  and 
at  great  expense.  The  scenery  in  the  pass  is  of  wild  and 
savage  magnificence.  The  carriage-road  is  cut  into  the  bank 
on  the  right  side  of  the  Ausable  River ; and  above  it  tower, 
hundreds  of  feet,  the  rugged  and  perpendicular  rocks.  Across 
the  river  looms  up  old  Whiteface,  its  cloud-capped  peak  4200 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  i s sides  clothed  with  evergreen  for  a 
great  part  of  its  heiglit  Midway  of  the  notch  are  the  cele- 
brated Wilmington  Falls,  one  hundred  feet  high,  pouring  over 
a precipice  of  eternal  rock  in  a feathery  cloud,  witn  a roar 
like  that  of  Niagara.  A difficult  and  peril  uis  climb  down 
the  walls  of  the  gorge  to  the  foot  of  the  fa  Is,  is  rewarded  by 
a sight  of  their  savage  magnificence  which  is  indescribably 
grand.  A short  distance  below  is  the  Flume,  where  the 
waters,  compressed  into  a narrow  space  b.  tween  high  and 
smoothly  worn  walls  of  rock,  rush  with  lightning  rapidity 
down  a steep  incline;  and  all  the  way,  the  road,  clinging  to 
the  mountain  side,  presents  at  each  turn  some  new  exhibition 
of  Nature’s  power.  Emerging  from  the  pass,  the  peaceful, 
broad,  and  fertile  valley  of  the  Ausable  stretches  away  for 
miles  in  the  distance ; and  at  our  feet  lies  the  little  village  of 
Wilmington.  The  Whiteface  Mountain  House,  a cozy,  home- 
like structure,  with  facilities  for  entertaining  half  a hundred 
guests,  is  the  only  hostelry  and  here  nearly  every  one  stops 
who  proposes  to  ascend  old  Whiteface. 

The  Ascent  of  Whiteface.! 

From  this  House,  a carriage  road  ascends  the  mountain  on 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK,  Iqi 

its  northeast  side  two  miles;  then  a rugged  bridle  path  is 
traversed  on  horseback  four  miles  to  the  summit.  Three 
quarters  of  a mile  from  the  top  is  a rude  hut,  where  quarters 
maybe  had  for  the  night,  if  one  desire  to  see  the  sunrise  from 
the  peak.  The  mountain  is  4918  feet  high,  and  is  named 
from  the  fact  that  a landslide  years  ago  laid  bare  its  whitish- 
gray  rocks  near  the  summit.  The  ascent  is  attended  with  a 
good  deal  of  difficulty,  but  is  perfectly  safe  and  often  made  by 
ladies,  who  find  the  Turkish  costume  specially  convenient,  as 
they  have  to  follow  the  fashion  of  the  men,  and  ride  on  both 
sides  of  the  animal.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  of  sur- 
passing grandeur,  overlooking  a vast  territory  broken  by 
mountain  peaks,  among  which  shine  the  glassy  surfaces  of 
over  sixty  lakes  and  ponds.  The  Giant  of  the  Valley,  Marcy, 
Wallface,  Mclntire,  Sugar  Loaf  and  Seward  are  easily  dis- 
tinguisiied ; Lake  Placid  nestles  close  to  the  mountain’s  foot, 
and  afar  off  to  the  west  can  be  seen  the  Saranac  Lakes.  To 
the  east  is  the  broad  expanse  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  beyond, 
in  the  dim  distance,  the  outlines  of  the  Green  Mountains 
appear. 

From  Wilmington,  we  resume  our  journey  northeast 
through  Jay  and  Ausable  P'orks,  to  Ausable  station,  where 
we  board  the  train  for  Plattsburgh.  Or  we  may  drive  24 
miles  over  the  plank-road  to  Port  Kent,  where  we  take  the 
steamer  for  Plattsburgh, 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Routes  to  Montreal. 

ROM  several  points  on  our  route  thus  far,  the 
tourist  who  desires  to  visit  Montreal,  and  the 
Canadian  resorts,  will  find  direct  communi- 
cation. From  Boston  i here  are  several  routes 
of  nearly  equal  directness  and  advantages. 
We  may  journey  to  Rutland,  as  already  de- 
scribed. and  thence  via  Burlington.  8t.  Albans, 
and  St.  John’s  to  Montreal,  or  from  Bellows 
Falls  through  White  River  Junction.  Mont- 
pelier, Essex  Junction,  St.  Albans,  and  St. 
John’s  to  Montreal,  or  we  may  take  the 
Boston,  Lowell  and  Nashua  Railroad,  through  Lowell,  Nashua 
and  Manchester  to  Concord,  N.  11. , or  the  Boston  and  Maine 
Railroad  via  Lawrence  and  Manchester  to  Conco  d ; and  I'rom 
the  last  named  city,  several  divergent  routes,  all  leading 
to  Montreal,  lie  before  us. 

Via  Lowell  and  Manchester. 

Taking  the  morning  train  from  the  magnificent  Passenger 
Station  of  the  Boston,  Lowell  and  Nashua  Railroad,  on  Cause- 
way street,  we  are  soon  rolling  out  of  the  city,  across  one  of 
the  many  spile  bridges  that  “ spile  ” the  beauty  of  the  Charles 


TOURlS'rS^  HANDBOOK. 


193 


River  near  the  city,  while  they  serve  to  connect  Boston  with 
the  continent  north  and  to  increase  its  material  prosperity. 
We  pass  the  Btinkcr  Hill  district,  with  its  cosey  and  homelike 
State  Prison  at  our  right;  Somerville,  with  its  several  small 
and  scattered  villages,  and  its  imposing  McLean  Insane  Hos- 
pital ; Medford,  famous  for  New  England  rum,  for  the  Mystic 
Racing  Park  near  the  railroad,  and  for  Tufts  College,  the 
handsome  buildings  of  which  are  in  plain  sight,  on  the  lofty 
hill  overlooking  the  track  on  the  UTt;  Winchester,  famous 
for  its  tanneries;  East  Woburn,  North  Woburn,  Wilmington, 
Billerica  and  North  Billerica,  and  cross  the  Concord  river  to 
Lowell.  This  great  spindle  city,  26  miles  from  Boston,  is 
known  wherever  cotton  cloth  is  worn.  The  va^t  power  of  the 
Merrimack  river,  which  here  descends  33  feet,  over  what  were 
formerly  known  as  Pawtucket  Falls,  is  utilized  by  the  canal, 
originally  built  for  navigation,  which  connects  with  the  Con- 
cord river  below.  Along  this  canal  and  upon  the  Merrimack 
and  Concord  rivers,  stand  long  lines  of  huge  factories,  com- 
prising the  mills  of  the  Lawrence,  Tremont,  Suffolk,  Merri- 
mack, Boott,  Massachusetts,  Middlesex,  Prescott,  Appleton, 
Hamilton  and  other  corporations,  besides  the  print  and  carpet 
factories.  There  are  about  70  mills  in  all,  employing  about 
1,000  women  and  half  as  many  men,  and  some  idea  of  the 
vast  production  may  be  gained  from  the  fact  that  the  Merri- 
mack Mills  alone  turn  out  12,000  miles  of  cotton  cloth  per 
annum.  The  operatives  are  mostly  Irish,  Nova  Scotians  and 
French  Canadians.  Be  sides  the  mills,  a vast  number  of  other 
profitable  industries  aid  the  wealth  of  the  city.  From  Lowell, 
our  route  lies  along  the  Merrimack  river.  Middlesex,  at  the 
head  of  the  Old  Middlesex  canal,  to  Boston,  completed  in 
1808  at  a cost  of  $528,000,  but  abandoned  since  the  era  of 
railways,  is  passed ; then  North  Chelmsford  and  Tyngsboro’ ; 
then  we  cross  the  New  Hampshire  line  to  the  city  of  Nashua, 
40  miles  from  Boston,  which  stands  on  both  sides  the  Nashua 
river,  a tributary  of  the  Merrimack  and  the  source  of  power 
for  the  various  mills.  Nashua  is  a city  of  over  10,000  in- 
9 


194 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


habitants,  which  has  grown  since  1823,  when  the  Nashua 
Manufacturing  Company  was  chartered.  Following  the  river 
Merrimack  still,  but  over  the  line  of  the  Concord  Railroad, 
passing  various  rural  stations,  we  reach  Manchester,  the 
largest  city  in  the  State,  57  miles  from  Boston,  at  the  Amos- 
keag  Falls  of  the  Merrimack.  The  Blodget  canal,  around  the 
falls,  utilizing  the  power  for  the  propulsion  of  various  manu- 
factoiies.  The  city  has  about  25,000  inhabitants  and  is  very 
attractive  in  appearance,  the  streets  being  wide  and  hand- 
somely shaded ; several  public  squares  are  laid  out  and  the 
houses  are  neat  and  many  of  them  elegant.  The  falls,  which 
have  a descent  of  47  feet,  present  a striking  sight  in  high 
water.  Lake  Massabesic,  four  miles  east  of  the  city,  is  a 
favorate  summer  resort.  Continuing  our  northward  journey, 
we  pass  several  little  stations  and  enter  the  capitol  of  the 
State,  the  city  of  Concord,  75  miles  from  Boston,  a beautiful 
town  of  some  15,000  inhabitants.  The  city  stands  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  to  which  the  principal  streets  run 
parallel.  The  State  Capitol  fronts  a small  park  off  Main 
street,  and  is  a stately  structure  of  granite  quarried  near  by. 
The  City  Hall,  Court  House,  and  State  Insane  Asylum, 
founded  in  1842,  are  the  principal  public  buildings.  At  Con- 
cord, the  visitor  who  desires  to  make  a stay  of  a few  days,  will 
find  a pleasant  stopping  place  at  the  Eagle  Hotel,  John  A. 
White,  proprietor.  This  house  has  been  enlarged,  refitted 
and  refurnished,  and  is  a first-class  establishment.  Its  loca- 
tion, opposite  the  Capitol,  gives  it  the  advantage  in  point  of 
site  over  most  other  houses. 

Via  Lawrence  and  Manchester. 

By  the  Boston  and  Maine  line,  leaving  the  commodious 
brick  station  in  Haymarket  square,  Boston,  our  route  is 
northward,  across  the  Charles  river,  through  one  edge  of  the 
Bunker  Hill  District,  Somerville,  Malden,  Melrose,  Stoneham, 
preenwood,  Wakefield,  Wilmington,  Ballardvale,  Andover, 
(the  seat  of  Phillips  Academy,  the  Abbot  Female  Seminary, 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


IQS 

and  the  famous  Congregational  Theological  Seminary),  and 
South  Lawrence,  across  the  Merrimack  and  into  Lawrence, 
25  miles  from  Boston,  one  of  the  great  mill  cities  of  the 
country,  and  one  of  the  three  capitals  of  Essex  Country.  It 
has  about  30,000  inhabitants,  and  both  by  situation  and  the 
wise  foresight  displayed  in  its  building  and  ornamentation,  is 
one  of  the  handsomest  of  manufacturing  towns.  In  1844,  the 
Essex  Company  founded  this  place  and  built  a massive  stone 
dam,  giving  28  feet  fall,  across  the  river.  A canal,  a mile  long 
and  400  feet  from  the  river,  carries  the  water  along  the  line  of 
great  mills,  which  stand  on  the  strip  of  land  between  the  river 
and  the  canal,  which  last  thus  separates  the  mills  from  the 
city.  The  corporation  boarding  houses  are  surrounded  by  a 
wide  green,  which  gives  them  plenty  of  air  and  light,  and  a 
pleasant  outlook.  The  streets  are  broad,  handsomely  shaded, 
and  lined  by  many  costly  and  elegant  buildings,  among  which 
the  City  Hall,  the  Oliver  High  School,  the  County  buildings, 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church  of  the  Immaculate  Conception, 
and  several  other  churches,  are  the  most  notable.  The  Common 
is  a handsome  large  green,  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  on  which 
front  several  of  the  finest  buildings,  and  which  is  shaded  with 
beautiful  trees.  The  principal  factories  are  the  Pemberton, 
Everett,  Washington,  Pacific,  Atlantic,  Arlington,  Lawrence 
Woolen  Company’s  and  Russell  Paper  Company’s  Mills,  em- 
ploying 10,000  hands,  and  manufacturing  millions  of  dollars’ 
worth  of  goods  annually.  The  valuation  of  Lawrence  is 
about  $20,000,000.  The  fearful  accident  in  the  Pemberton 
Mills,  January  10,  i860,  when  the  thin  and  insufficient  walls  were 
shaken  down  by  the  motion  of  the  machinery,  and  the  ruins 
took  fire,  burning  to  death  many  of  the  imprisoned  operatives, 
is  still  fresh  in  the  memory.  By  this  terrible  disaster  325 
persons  were  killed  and  wounded. 

From  Lawrence,  our  route  lies  northwest,  leaving  the  Bos- 
ton and  Maine  for  the  Manchester  and  Lawrence  Railroad, 
which  conveys  us  in  70  minutes  over  the  26  miles  of  inter- 
vening distance.  We  pass  by  the  way,  Methuen,  a flourishing 


196 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


village  at  the  falls  of  the  Spicket  river,  where  hats,  shoes, 
cottons,  etc.,  are  manufactured,  and  cross  the  New  Hamp- 
shire line,  into  the  quiet  farming  town  of  Salem ; thence 
through  Windham,  Drury  and  Londonderry  (settled  by  Irish 
Presbyterians  and  named  after  their  former  home ; renowned 
for  patriotism  in  the  Revolution,  and  for  the  number  of  com- 
manders in  the  continental  army  who  were  born  here),  we 
come  to  Manchester,  whence  our  route  to  Concord  is  the  same 
as  already  described. 

From  Concord  to  Montreal. 

From  Concord  the  principal  lines  are  the  Boston  and  Mon- 
treal Air  Line,  by  the  Boston,  Concord  and  Montreal  Rail- 
road, through  Weirs  and  Plymouth  to  Wells  River,  thence  by 
Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Rivers  Railway  to  Newport,  Vt., 
thence  by  South  Eastern  Railroad  to  St.John’s,  thence  by  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  to  Montreal ; the  Central  Vermont  line,  via 
White  River  Junction,  Montpelier  and  St.  Albans;  or  by  the 
Northern  Railroad  to  White  River  Junction,  Connecticut  and 
Passumpsic  Rivers  Railroad  to  Wells  River,  Montpelier  and 
Wells  River  Railroad  to  Montpelier,  thence  by  the  Central 
Vermont  line;  or  by  Boston,  Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad, 
through  Weirs,  Wells  River,  Littleton  and  Lancaster  (with 
views  of  the  White  Mountains)  to  Northumberland,  and 
thence  by  Grand  Trunk  Railway  through  Richmond  Junction 
and  St.  Lambert  to  Montreal.  This  last  is  the  longest  and 
most  tedious  of  the  routes,  but  gives  one  an  opportunity  to 
see  a good  deal  of  the  mountains  and  the  country  generally. 

The  Air  Line  Route. 

By  the  first  mentioned  or  Air  Line  route,  we  cross  the 
Merrimack  River,  and  pass  through  Canterbury,  82  miles 
from  Boston,  where  is  the  seat  of  a flourishing  Shaker 
community,  whose  good  works  (in  the  form  of  apple  sauce 
and  garden  seeds),  are  known  the  country  over;  through 
Tilton  (the  seat  of  the  New  Hampshire  Seminary  and  Female 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


197 


College),  to  the  shores  of  the  beautiful  Lake  Winnepiseogee 
along  which  we  skirt.  Laconia  has  extensive  manufactories 
of  cloths,  hosiery  and  railroad  cars,  and  is  extensively  popu- 
lated in  the  Summer  by  people  from  the  cities,  who  find  ac- 
commodations at  the  Willard  House,  and  the  various  board- 
ing houses  and  farm  houses  in  the  vicinity.  Laconia  is 
situated  on  the  shores  of  Great  Bay,  also  called  Lake  Winni- 
squam,  a picturesque  and  extensive  sheet  of  water,  and  is  the 
point  of  departure  for  the  ascent  of  Mount  Belknap,  four 
miles  distant.  This  mountain,  commanding  from  its  summit 
a view  of  nearly  the  entire  lake,  is  in  sight  from  the  car  win- 
dows for  several  miles.  Lake  Village,  on  the  shore  of  San- 
bornton  Bay,  is  a thriving  place,  with  several  lumber  and 
paper  mills.  A small  steamer  runs  in  Summer  between  this 
‘‘port”  and  Alton  Bay.  We  now  skirt  the  shores  of  Long 
Bay,  and  stop  at  Weirs,  105  miles  from  Boston,  where  we  gain 
a magnificent  view  up  the  Lake,  and  where  if  we  choose,  we 
may  take  the  steamer  for  Alton  Bay,  Woltboro  and  Centre 
Harbor. 

A Tour  of  Lake  Winnipiseogee. 

Winnipiseogee,  (spelt  also  Winnepesaukee),  is  an  Indian 
word,  variously  interpreted  to  mean,  “The  Smile  of  the 
Great  Spirit,”  and  Pleasant  Water  in  a High  Place.”  Which- 
ever be  the  correct  version,  either  is  applicable  to  this  pure, 
clear,  and  wonderfully  beautiful  mountain  lake.  Edward 
Everett  wrote  of  this  trip  to  a friend  : — 

“I  have  been  something  of  a traveller  in  our  own  country 
— though  less  than  I could  wish — and  in  Europe  have  seen 
all  that  is  most  attractive,  from  the  Highlands  of  Scotland  to 
the  Golden  Horn  of  Constantinople;  from  the  summit  of  the 
Hartz  Mountains  to  the  Fountain  of  Vaucluse,  but  my  eye 
has  yet  to  rest  on  a lovelier  scene  than  that  which  smiles 
around  you  as  you  sail  from  Weir’s  Landing  to  Centre 
Harbor.” 

Starr  King  wrote  : — 

“ Looking  up  to  the  broken  sides  of  the  Ossipee  Mountains 
that  are  rooted  in  the  lake,  over  which  huge  shadows  loiter ; 


i'OiJEISTS’  HANDBOOK. 


198 

or  back  to  the  twin  Belknap  Hills,  which  appeal  to  softer  sen-* 
sibilities  with  their  verdured  symmetry;  or  farther  down  upon 
the  charming  succession  of  mounds  that  hem  the  shores  near 
Wolfboro’ ; or  northward,  where  distant  Chocorua  lifts  his 
bleached  head,  so  tenderly  touched  now  with  gray  and  gold, 
to  defy  the  hottest  sunlight,  as  he  has  defied  for  ages  the 
lightning  and  the  storm,  — does  it  not  seem  as  though  the 
passage  in  the  Psalms  is  fulfilled  before  our  eyes,  — ‘ (Jut  of 
the  perfection  of  beauty,  God  hath  shined.’  ” 

This  magnificent  lake,  the  liquid  gem  of  the  Switzerland  of 
America,  is  25  miles  long  by  7 miles  wide,  at  the  widest,  and 
contains  69  square  miles.  It  is  situated  in  Carroll  and  Bel- 
knap Counties,  New  Hampshire,  and  bordered  by  eight  town- 
ships. Its  shores  are  very  irregular,  expanding  on  every 
side  into  deeply  indented  bays,  while  some  300  islands  break 
its  surface.  Long  Island,  far  out  in  the  lake,  nearly  opposite 
Weirs,  and  Diamond  Island,  several  miles  southeast,  have  small 
hotels,  which  are  much  visited  by  excursion  parties.  Taking 
the  steamer  Lady  of  the  Lake,  or  Mount  Washington,  at 
Weirs,  our  course  lies  through  a tortuous  water  path,  between 
green  and  romantic  islands,  out  upon  the  sparkling  bosom  of 
the  lake.  We  turn  to  the  left  and  gain  a magnificent  view, 
which  fills  every  heart  with  rapture.  Far  away  before  us 
loom  the  Sandwich  Mountains,  in  a long  rank  of  sentinel 
peaks,  the  Ossipee  Mountains  furthest  to  our  right,  and  grim 
Chocorua  towering  above  and  beyond  them;  then  White- 
face,  and  to  our  left.  Red  Hill.  We  steam  up  the  beautiful 
Northwest  bay,  betwi  en  shores  clothed  in  green,  and  fringed 
with  trees,  to  Centre  Harbor,  a village  of  half  a thousand  per- 
manent inhabitants,  and  as  many  more  transient  visitors  in 
the  season,  where  the  Senter  House,  a large  and  pleasant 
hotel,  and  several  smaller  hostelries  provide  for  the  wants  of 
the  guests.  From  Centre  Harbor  there  are  several  pleasant 
drives;  to  Red  Hill,  four  miles  of  carriage  road  and  two  miles 
of  bridle  path  to  the  summit,  2,000  feet  high,  whence  the  view 
is  grand  enough  to  repay  ten  times  the  exertion  of  climbing 
hither.  Far  away,  on  the  northwestern  horizon,  rises  the 
sharp,  rocky  cone  of  Chocorua ; towards  the  north,  the  Sand- 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


199 


wich  range,  with  Raid  Knob  and  Whiteface  as  its  western 
outposts ; to  the  nortli  and  northwest,  the  Squam  Mountains ; 
to  the  west  Squam  Lake,  with  its  placid  waters  and  its  silvery 
beaches  ; to  the  southwest,  30  miles  away,  is  Mount  Kearsarge ; 
to  the  south  stretches  the  winding  shore  of  the  lake,  with  its 
beautiful  islands,  and  beyond  rise  the  twin  peaks  of  Mount 
Belknap  ; while  far  away  to  the  southwest,  stretches  one  of  the 
loveliest  water  panoramas  on  earth,  backed  by  the  domes  of 
Copple  Crown  and  Tumble-Down-Dick. 

Down  the  Lake  to  Wolf  boro’. 

Leaving  Centre  Harbor  for  the  trip  down  the  lake,  we  steer 
southeast,  leaving  the  Ossipee  Mountains  on  our  left,  and 
threading  our  way  through  a labyrinth  of  islands  for  several 
miles.  Emerging  at  length  into  the  clear  water  of  the  centre 
of  the  lake,  we  cast  our  eyes  to  the  eastward,  where  forty 
miles  away  Mount  Washington’s  majestic  peak,  throned  on 
the  hills,  towers  above  his  satellites.  Further  on  we  gain 
shifting  views  of  one  after  another  of  the  magnificent  peaks, 
while  on  the  southern  border  of  the  lake.  Mount  Belknap 
rises  before  us  as  we  advance.  A sail  of  twenty  miles  brings 
us  to  Wolfboro,  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  a village  of 
some  thousands  of  inhabitants,  with  several  hotels,  banks  and 
stores,  lumber  mills  and  a railroad  station.  Here  the  Wolf- 
boro Branch  of  the  Eastern  Railroad  has  its  terminus,  and 
hence,  if  we  choose,  we  can  take  the  Pullman  cars  and  speedily 
be  transported  through  a charming  country  to  Portsmouth, 
N.H.,  and  thence  to  Boston,  106  miles,  in  less  than  five  hours. 

But  we  are  not  ready  for  so  speedy  a return,  and  can  afford 
to  enjoy  for  a time  the  delights  of  Wolfboro.  The  village  is 
beautifully  located  on  the  lakeside  slopes  of  two  gently  rising 
hills,  separated  by  a millstream,  and  from  almost  every  point 
fine  views  across  the  lake,  with  the  majestic  peaks  of  Belknap 
for  a background,  can  be  had.  The  Pavilion  Hotel  has  a 
most  sightly  location,  and  during  the  season  its  broad  veran- 
dahs and  cool  parlors  are  alive  with  city  folk.  Just  by  its 


^00 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


side,  embowered  in  trees,  stands  the  Belvue,  a quiet  and  home- 
like little  house,  much  favored  hy  modest  and  quiet  people, 
and  across  the  street,  overlooking  the  lake,  the  steamboat 
landing  and  the  railway  station,  and  within  a few  rods  of  each, 
stands  the  Glendon  House,  a new  and  spacious  hotel,  with  all 
the  modern  improvements.  From  either  house  boats  are  fur- 
nished for  sailing  vnd  fishing  on  the  lake,  and  teams  for  the 
many  beautiful  and  romantic  drives,  as  well  as  for  the  ascent 
of  Copple  Crown  Mountain,  5 miles  distant  and  2100  feet 
high.  From  its  summit  the  lake  is  visible  for  nearly  its 
entire  length,  while  Mounts  Belknap,  Ossipee,  Chocorua,  and 
Washington  are  the  principal  peaks  in  sight.  In  a clear  day 
a view  of  the  ocean  is  obtained.  “Tumble-down  Dick”  is  a 
neighboring  and  somewhat  smaller  mountain  of  singular  for- 
mation, and  is  also  often  ascended.  The  Devil’s  Den,  a nar- 
row, black  cave,  among  the  rocks  of  a lofty  hill  a lew  miles 
away,  is  visited  by  active  climbers,  and  there  are  Jhany  de- 
lightful short  drives  in  the  vicinity.  But  the  great  joys  of 
the  place  are  the  sails  and  rows  upon  the  lake,  and  picnic  par- 
ties upon  some  of  the  many  islands  within  easy  distance.  An 
apt  poetical  description,  by  Nathan  D.  Urner,  of  the  pleasures 
of  picnicing,  tells  the  story  of  a day’s  sport  in  this  line  : 

A leafy  island,  bowered  by  tall  trees, 

A cove  of  silver,  hushed  from  the  far  breakers ; 

A shallop,  slanting  shoreward  with  the  breeze. 

Brimful  of  merrymakers. 

The  grating  keel,  the  boat-stake  nicelj  missed. 

Young  fellows  laughing* at  each  other’s  error; 

Hoops  disarranged,  curls  fiustered  from  their  twist, 

The  girls  in  pretty  terror. 

The  shore  : — bright  ankles  glancing  up  the  sward, 

The  strong  arms  and  luncheon  coming  blithely  after; 

The  nook  selected,  and  the  breathing  hard. 

The  jest  and  ringing  laughter. 

The  rushing  swing  beneath  the  rustling  limb. 

The  youngsters  pushing  and  the  lasses  soaring; 

Romping  and  frolic  by  the  fountain’s  brim. 

Croquet  and  battledoring. 


TOt/RISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


20t 


Garlands  of  wild  flowers  shading  many  a brow, 

And  garnered  posies  of  wee  blooms  prized  highly; 

Strayed  couples  missed,  and  soft  conjectures  how 
Tliey  slipped  away  so  slyly. 

The  snowy  cloth  upon  the  emerald  sod, 

With  platters  few,  but  viands  in  profusion; 

Ham  and  cold  chicken  — feasting  for  a god. 

With  fear  of  no  intrusion. 

Cool  bottles  dripping  from  the  icy  spring. 

Old  Sherry  bubbling  and  bright  Champagne  popping; 
Youth  and  high  joyance,  in  a jocund  ring, 

Both  thirst  and  hunger  stopping. 

Blanche,  with  her  beauty  heightened  by  a blush. 

Which  hints  some  secret  of  her  recent  ramble ; 

Maud,  all  the  prettier  for  heated  flush. 

Her  skirt  torn  by  a bramble. 

Helen  and  Annie  flirting  with  their  beaux; 

Belle  with  her  apron  stuffed  with  dewy  cresses ; 

Harry,  the  rascal,  struggling  for  the  rose 
In  Edith’s  raven  tresses. 

Back  to  the  cove  : — a group  of  twelve  or  more. 

All  homeward  bent  on  tasks  of  love  and  duty; 

A shallop,  slowly  gliding  from  the  shore. 

Freighted  with  health  and  beauty. 

Near  Wolfboro,  in  a fine  grove  overlooking  the  Lake,  the 
adventists  have  a noted  camp-ground,  and  hither  many  of  the 
sect  yearly  resort,  to  hear  the  prophecies  expounded  and  to 
prepare  for  their  speedy  and  final  departure  from  this  sub- 
lunary sphere.  From  Wolfboro,  by  the  branch  railroad  to 
the  Junction,  12  miles  distant,  and  thence  by  the  Conway 
Division  of  the  Eastern  Railroad,  passengers  can  speedily 
reach  North  Conway  and  thence  the  White  Mountains. 

To  Alton  Bay  and  Back  to  Weirs. 

Our  route  lies  in  the  opposite  direction.  We  resume  our 
steamboat  travel,  steering  nearly  due  South,  into  Alton  Bay. 
9* 


202 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


This  inlet,  Or  frith,  is  of  surpassing  beauty,  bordered  by  lofty 
bluffs,  crowned  by  lofty  trees,  and  the  narrow  water-way  seem- 
ing, at  times,  to  end  abruptly  before  us,  when  rounding  a bold 
point,  we  see  it  expanding  in  another  direction.  We  follow 
it  thus  for  four  or  five  miles,  to  its  head,  where  the  railway 
station  of  the  Boston  and  Maine,  and  the  Bay  View  Hotel 
confront  us.  Alton  Bay  is  one  of  the  principal  approaches 
to  the  lake,  by  the  Boston  and  Maine,  wh’ch  forms  a White 
Mountain  route,  by  the  aid  of  the  steamer,  to  Centre  Harbor, 
and  stages  thence  to  the  mountain.  Returning  to  Weirs,  we 
resume  our  seats  in  the  cars,  for  the  prosecution  of  our  jour- 
ney northward.  But  before  we  leave  the  lovely  lake,  let  us 
read  John  G.  Whittier’s  beautiful  description  of  an  evening 
upon  its  fair  waters. 


Summer  by  the  Lakeside. 

Yon  mountain’s  side  is  black  with  night, 

Whiie,  broad-orbed,  o’er  its  gleaming  crown 

The  moon  slow  rounding  into  sight, 

On  the  hushed  inland  sea  looks  down. 

How  start  to  light  the  clustering  isles. 

Each  silver  hemmed  ! How  sharply  show 

The  shadows  of  their  rocky  piles. 

And  tree-tops  in  the  waves  below ! 

How  far  and  strjmge  the  mountains  seem. 
Dim-looming  through  the  pale,  still  light! 

The  vague,  vast  grouping  of  a dream. 

They  stretch  into  the  solemn  night. 

Beneath,  lake,  wood,  and  peopled  vale. 

Hushed  by  that  pre-'^ence,  grand  and  grave. 

Are  silent,  save  the  cricket’s  wail. 

And  low  response  of  leaf  and  wave. 

Fair  scenes ! whereto  the  Day  and  Night 
Make  rival  love,  I leave  ye  soon. 

What  time  before  the  eastern  light 
The  pale  ghost  of  the  setting  moon 


TOURISTS'  HANDHOOK. 

Shall  hide  behind  jon  rocky  spines, 

And  the  young  Archer,  Morn,  shall  b reak 

Ilis  arrows  on  the  mountain  pines. 

And,  golden-sandalled,  walk  the  Lake ! 

Farewell ! Around  this  smiling  bay 
Gay-hearted  Health,  and  Life  in  bloom. 

With  lighter  steps  than  mine,  may  stray 
In  radiant  summers  yet  to  come. 

But  none  shall  more  regretful  leave 
These  waters  and  these  hills  than  I ; 

Or,  distant,  fonder  dream  how  eve 
Or  dawn  is  painting  wave  and  sky ; 

How  rising  moons  shine  sad  and  mild 
On  wooded  isle  and  silvering  bay; 

Or  setting  suns  beyond  the  piled 
And  purpled  mountains  lead  the  day; 

Nor  laughing  girl,  nor  bearding  boy. 

Nor  full-pulsed  manhood,  lingering  here. 

Shall  add  to  life’s  abounding  joy. 

The  charmed  repose  to  suffering  dear. 

Still  waits  kind  Nature  to  impart 
Her  choicest  gift  to  such  as  gain 

An  entrance  to  her  loving  heart 

Through  the  sharp  discipline  of  pain. 

Forever  from  the  hand  that  takes 
One  blessing  from  us  others  fall ; 

And,  soon  or  late,  our  Father  makes 
His  perfect  recompense  to  all ! 

O,  watched  by  Silence  and  the  Night, 

And  folded  in  the  strong  embrace 

Of  the  great  mountains,  with  the  light 
Of  the  sweet  heavens  upon  thy  face. 

Lake  of  the  Northlands  ! Keep  thy  dower 
Of  beauty  still,  and  while  above 

Thy  solemn  mountains  speak  of  power. 

Be  thou  the  mirror  of  God’s  love  ! 


264 


TOt/EIsTS’  HANDBOOK. 


The  Pemigewasset  Valley,  and  Plymouth. 

Next  we  pass  Meredith,  a pleasant  village  on  the  west  shore 
of  the  lake,  with  which  we  now  part  company,  and  proceed 
northwest,  through  Ashland,  the  point  of  departure  for  the 


beautiful  Squam  Lake,  three  miles  east,  cross  the  Pemige- 
wasset river  near  Bridgewater,  and  round  to  at  the  wharf, — 


THR  PEMIGEWASSET  HOUSE. 


tOl/K/STS*  If  AND  Book, 


no,  beg  pardon,  the  depot  platform,  — at  Plymouth,  123  miles 
from  Boston,  just  in  time  to  hear  the  bell  ringing  for  dinner 
at  the  Pemigewasset  House  close  by.  It  is  a singular  and  in- 
structive coincidence,  that  at  whatever  time  the  train  arrives, 
it  is  always  dinner-time  at  the  Pemigewasset,  and  as  a fine 
table  is  set  and  thirty  minutes  are  allowed  for  dinner,  it  is  also 
a fortunate  circumstance  for  travellers  that  it  is  so.  The  hotel 
has  accommodations  for  about  300  guests,  and  is  a favorite 
resort  of  tired  pilgrims  seeking  rest  among  the  lovely  scenes 
in  this  vicinity. 

Plymouth  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  flourishing  and  at- 
tractive of  mountain  villages,  and  the  inducements  which  it 
holds  out  to  visitors  are  equalled  by  those  of  very  few  Sum- 
mer resorts  in  the  country.  The  ascent  of  Mount  Prospect, 
with  its  splendid  overlook,  the  drives  and  rambles  along  the 
romantic  Pemigewasset,  with  its  broad  and  fertile  intervales, 
the  trips  to  the  mountains,  to  the  fine  Livermore  Falls,  2 
miles  north  of  the  village,  to  Squam  Lake,  six  miles  east,  and 
to  Newfound  Lake,  nine  miles  southwest,  and  the  stage  ride 
to  the  Profile  House,  in  the  Franconia  Notch,  White  Moun- 
tains, 20  miles  distant,  aie  the  principal  features  to  be  “ taken 
in”  during  a stay  here. 

From  Plymouth  we  continue  our  journey  through  Rumney 
and  Wentworth  to  Warren,  a place  much  frequented  by  visit- 
o.sin  Summer.  The  Moosilauke  House  furnishes  comfort- 
ble  accommodations,  and  the  Summit  House  on  the  top  of 
Mount  Moosilauke,  nine  miles  from  the  village  by  a good  car- 
riage road,  (fare  ^4),  also  offers  ‘‘  the  comforts  of  a home”  to 
wayfarers,  who  choose  to  view  the  landscape  o’er  from  the 
mountain  top.  The  hight  of  Moosilauke  is  4600  feet,  and 
standing  isolated  as  it  does,  the  view  from  its  . summit  is  grand 
and  .extended.  Hurricane  Brook,  near  Warren,  has  many 
picturesque  cascades,  and  there  are  many  beautiful  walks  and 
drives  in  the  vicinity.  Passing  through  Haverhill,  the  county 
seat  of  Grafton  county,  we  emerge  from  the  mountain  region 
upon  the  rich  and  fertile  intervales  of  the  Connecticut  river. 


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TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


which  we  soon  cross  and  draw  up  at  the  Wells  River  station, 
165  miles  from  Boston. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Route. 

Hence  the  Boston,  Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad,  which 
runs  parlor  cars  all  the  way  to  the  White  Mountains,  continues 
northeasterly,  recrossing  the  Connecticut  to  Northumber- 
land, 219  miles  from  Boston,  where  it  joins  the  Grand  Trunk 
on  its  way  from  Portland  to  Montreal.  From  this  junction, 
the  Grand  Trunk  runs  in  a general  northern  direction,  through 
the  northwestern  corner  of  New  Hampshire,  and  the  unin- 
teresting and  sparsely  settled  Canadian  townships  to  Rich- 
mond Junction,  whence  branches  diverge  respectively  to 
Quebec,  Three  Rivers  and  Montreal,  the  latter  portion  run- 
ning almost  due  west,  and  traversing  76  miles  in  about  three 
hours.  Midway  is  St.  Hyacinthe,  a pleasant  French  Cana- 
dian city,  with  a fine  cathedral,  and  a college  said  to  be  fully 
equal  to  any  in  Canada.  The  rest  of  the  trip  is  through  a 
fertile  district  of  tillage  land,  occupied  by  inhabitants  who 
preserve  the  manners,  customs,  religion  and  language  of  their 
French  ancestors  to  a remarkable  degree. 

Prom  Wells  River,  via  Newport,  Vt. 

But  the  Air  Line”  so-called,  proceeds  along  the  banks  of 
the  Connecticut  river,  almost  due  north,  oven  the  Connecti- 
cut and  Passumpsic  Rivers  Railroad,  to  St.  Johnsbury,  204 
miles  :rom  Boston.  This  is  a busy  and  handsome  town  of 
some  5000  inhabitants,  picturesquely  located  at  the  falls  of  the 
Pa&sumpsic.  The  manufactory  of  Fairbanks  scales  is  the 
principal  industry,  and  gives  employment  to  500  or  600  men. 
Some  50,000  scales  of  various  kinds  are  yearly  made.  There 
are  also  manufactories  of  mowing  and  threshing  machines 
and  other  agricultural  implements.  St.  Johnsbury  is  the 
shire  town  of  Caledonia  county,  and  has  a fine  court  house  on 
the  hill,  and  in  front  a Soldiers’  Monument  — a pedestal  sur- 
mounted by  a statue  of  America,  by  Mead  — and  near  at  hand 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


207 


the  Atliciijcum,  with  a library  of  some  10,000  volumes.  Be- 
yond St.  Johnsbury  our  i*oute  takes  us  through  the  towns  of 
Lyndon,  in  which  are  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Passumpsic,  and 
Burke,  whence  carriages  may  be  taken  for  Willoughby  Lake, 
six  miles  north.  This  lake  is  one  of  the  most  wonderful  and 
interesting  natural  objects  in  the  State  or  indeed  in  the 
country,  being  situated  between  two  immense  mountains, 
whose  bases  meet  far  below  its  waters.  The  Lake  is  six  miles 
long  two  wide  and  of  unknown  depth,  a lOO-fathom  line  fail- 
ing to  reach  bottom.  Mount  Hor,  1500  feet  above  the  water 
and  2700  above  the  sea  level,  stands  on  the  west,  and  Mount 
Pisgah,  Willoughby  or  Annanance  (as  it  is  variously  named) 
263S  feet  above  the  Lake,  on  the  east  shore.  The  latter  moun- 
tain IS  ascended  by  a pleasant  walk  of  two  miles  up  its  forest 
clothed  slope,  and  a vast  and  panoramic  view  is  obtained  from 
the  summit,  stretching  out  over  the  White  Mountains  on  the 
Southeast ; Owl’s  Head  and  Jay  Peak  in  Canada,  on  the  North- 
west; Mounts  Mansfield,  Cainel’s  Hump  and  Killington  on  the 
Southwest;  Lake  Memphremagog  to  the  North,  while  the 
Connecticut  Valley  stretches  far  away  to  the  South.  The 
western  face  of  the  mountain  is  a perpendicular  cliff  of  gran- 
ite, 600  feet  high  and  two  miles  long.  Rare  flowers  and  plants 
are  found  at  the  “ Flower  Garden  ” at  the  foot  of  the  cliff,  and 
elsewhere  on  Mount  Annanance.  The  Lake  abounds  in  trout 
and  muscalonge.  The  Willoughby  Lake  House  furnishes 
accommodations  for  visitors,  and  hence  carriages  can  be  had 
for  trips  to  other  places  of  interests.  Barton,  234  miles  from 
Boston,  is  a place  of  considerable  attraction  to  the  tourist. 
Crystal  Lake,  with  a house  of  the  same  name,  is  a lovely 
sheet  of  water  near  the  railroad. 

Lake  Memphremagog  and  its  Beauties. 

We  have  now  crossed  the  dividing  ridge  and  are  in  the  St. 
Lawrence  water  shed ; a ride  of  fifeeen  miles  more  brings  us 
to  Newport,  on  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake  Memphre- 
magog,  where  we  shall  find  it  both  pleasant  and  profitable  to 
‘‘  tie  up  ” for  a time  at  the  Mempremagog  House. 


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tOliRlStS^  HANbBOOk, 


This  fine  hotel  (kept  for  several  years  by  Mr.  W.  F.  Bow- 
man, a gentleman  of  long  experience  in  the  business,  and  one 
who  never  fails  to  enjoy  the  friendship  and  esteem  of  his 
guests,  through  his  unvarying  courtesy,  efficiency  and  thought- 
fulness), has  just  been  greatly  enlarged  and  improved,  and 
now  affords  accommodation  for  several  hundred  guests,  with 
all  the  luxuries  and  conveniencies  of  a palace.  Its  delightful 
location  and  healthful  surroundings  make  it  a most  desirable 
summer  residence.  Water,  gas,  steam,  bathing-rooms, 
billiard-halls,  bowling  alleys,  a livery  stable,  pleasure  boats, 
and  a populous  village,  with  everything  that  ministers  to  the 
traveller’s  occasional  necessities,  contribute  to  make  the 
Meniphremagog  all  that  can  be  desired.  One  who  has  ever 
enjoyed  the  gorgeous  sunset  views  from  the  broad  piazzas,  or 
sat  on  a moonlight  evening  while  the  band  played,  and  watched 
the  steamers  and  boats  on  the  lake  ; one  who  has  climbed  Pros- 
pect Hill,  roamed  along  the  Clyde  and  Coventry  Falls,  within 
easy  drive  of  the  house,  and  then  with  sharpened  appetite 
feasted  on  the  speckled  trout,  the  luscious  berries,  and  other 
dainties  of  the  mountain  and  the  lake  with  which  the  tables 
here  are  loaded,  — will  need  no  urgency  to  bring  him  'again  to 
Lake  Memphremagog.  Jay  Peak,  in  the  towns  of  Jay  and 
Westfield,  thirteen  miles  west  of  Newport,  is  visited  from  here  ; 
and  the  ascent  is  effected  by  carriage  road,  — a magnificent 
view  of  the  Green  Mountains,  the  Lake,  the  White  Mount- 
tains,  Lake  Champlain,  and  the  Adirondacks,  repaying  the 
tourist  for  the  trip.  Its  height  is  4018  feet.  The  magnificent 
body  of  water  known  as  Lake  Memphremagog,  often  likened 
by  tourists  to  Loch  Lomond,  Lake  Geneva,  or  Lake  George, 
is  35  miles  long  and  from  2 to  5 miles  wide.  Its  rocky  shores 
are  indented  with  beautiful  bays,  while  wooded  headlands  jut 
boldly  out,  and  picturesque  islands  dot  its  surface  here  and 
there.  Newport  is  a delightful  village,  upon  a hillside  sloping 
down  to  the  clear  water. 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


209  * 


A Trip  down  the  Lake. 

Thus  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  excursions  that  can  be 
made.  The  “Lady  of  the  Lake  ” a beautiful  iron  steamer, 
leaves  the  village  every  morning  for  Magog,  a Canadian  vil- 
lage at  the  northern  outlet,  and  returns  the  same  day.  Indian 
Point,  the  Twin  Sisters,  Province  Island,  Tea  Table  Island, 
Fitch’s  Bay,  and  Whetstone  Island  are  passed ; and  soon  the 
steamer  approaches  ‘‘  Owl’s  Head,”  a conical,  symmetrical 
peak,  rising  3,000  feet  above  the  lake,  whose  waters  lave  its 
foot.  A short  sail  past  Round  Island,  a gracefully  rounded 
and  densely  wooded  islet,  brings  you  to  a landing  almost  at 
the  foot  of  Owl’s  Head,  where  is  located  the  Mountain  House, 
a famous  spot  with  those  who  delight  in  fishing;  the  deep, 
cool  waters  of  the  lake  abounding  in  muscalonge  and  lake 
trout.  The  ascent  of  Owl’s  Head  is  made  from  this  point,  if 
one  tarries  long  enough.  Skinner’s  Island  and  Cave  are  near 
by,  to  the  eastward  of  the  Mountain  House,  and  are  famous  as 
the  haunt  during  the  war  of  1812  of  Uriah  Skinner,  “ the  bold 
smuggler  of  Magog,”  of  whom  a poetic  legend  exists.  In  the 
cave,  it  is  said,  he  took  refuge  from  pursuit  and  there  died. 
Continuing  northward.  Mount  Elephantis  (sugar  Loaf)  and 
the  Hog’s  Rack  are  seen ; and  we  pass  Long  Island,  on  whose 
southern  shore  is  the  famous  ‘‘  Balance  Rock,”  a huge  mass 
of  granite,  poised  on  a narrow  point  at  the  water’s  edge.  This 
island  is  the  summer  home  of  several  wealthy  Canadians, 
whose  beautiful  residences  crown  its  wooded  heights.  Round- 
ing the  bold  Gibraltar  Point,  Mount  Orford  comes  in  full  view, 
— the  loftiest  peak  of  Lower  Canada,  rising  3300  feet,  and 
distant  five  miles  from  the  little  hamlet  of  Magog,  where  the 
boat  stops  a short  time.  From  Magog,  John  Norton’s  stage- 
line conveys  the  visitor  who  desires  to  Sherbrooke,  on  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  a ride  of  sixteen  miles  around  the 
base  of  Mount  Orford.  At  Sherbrooke,  the  Magog  House, 
under  the  management  of  Mr.  H.  S Helpburn,  will  be  found 
a very  desirable  resort.  It  is  one  of  the  best  kept  houses  in 
Canada;  and  the  finest  fishing  can  be  had  in  the  vicinity. 


210 


TO  URI^  TS^  tJA  NDBOOK. 


The  famous  Lakes  Massawippi  and  Meguntic  are  but  a short 
distance  from  the  house,  and  many  visitors  come  hither  to 
capture  the  trout,  pickerel,  bass,  mullet,  pike,  muscalonge 
and  other  fine  fish  with  which  they  swarm.  From  Sher- 
brooke, proceeding  north  to  Richmond  Junction  and  thence 
northeast  to  Point  Levi  on  the  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  but 
a short  ferry  ride  separates  us  from  Quebec ; or,  proceeding 
west  as  already  described,  we  can  reach  Montreal.  By  far  the 
shortest  route,  however,  from  here,  is  that  by  the  Southeastern 
Railroad  from  Newport,  via  Richford  and  St.  John’s  to  Mon- 
treal. Our  route  lies  in  a northwesterly  direction  through 
the  corner  of  Vermont  into  the  realms  of  Queen  Victoria. 
At  Richford  a connection  is  made  with  the  Eastern  Division 
of  the  Central  Vermont  for  St.  Albans,  and  at  West  Farnham, 
65  miles  from  Newport,  with  the  Northern  Division  of  the 
same  road,  to  Waterloo,  29  miles  east.  Fifteen  miles  further 
we  come  to  St.  John’s,  where  we  pass  to  the  track  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  cross  the  fertile  township  of  La 
Prairie  to  St.  Lambert,  and  thence  by  the  magnificent  Victo- 
ria Bridge,  into  Montreal.  The  cost  of  this  gigantic  structure 
was  originally  estimated  at  £1,450,000;  but  this  sum  has 
since  been  reduced,  and  the  present  calculation  of  its  cost  is 
about  £1,250,000.  In  it  250,000  tons  of  stone  and  7,500  tons 
of  iron,  have  been  used.  The  iron  superstructure  is  sup- 
ported by  24  piers  and  two  abutments.  The  centre  span  is 
330  feet:  there  are  12  spans  each  side  of  the  centre,  of  242 
feet  each.  The  extreme  length,  including  abutments,  is  7,000 
feet.  The  height  above  summer  water  level  in  the  centre 
opening  is  60  feet,  descending  to  either  end  at  the  rate  of  one 
in  130.  The  contents  of  the  masonry  is  3,000,000  cubic  feet. 
The  weight  of  iron  in  the  tubes  is  8,000  tons.  The  following 
are  the  dimensions  of  the  tubes  through  which  the  trains 
pass  in  the  middle  span,  viz.,  22  feet  high,  16  feet  wide;  at 
the  extreme  ends,  19  feet  high,  and  16  wide.  The  total  length 
from  the  river  bank  is  10,284  feet,  or  about  50  yards  less  than 
two  English  miles.  About  ten  minutes  is  spent  in  this  dark 


Toi/Ki^Ts^  Handbook. 


2 1 1 

l^iissagc,  and  then  wc  emerge  upon  a lofty  causeway,  over- 
looking the  majestic  St.  Lawrence  and  the  city  of  Montreal, 
which  we  soon  enter  and  in  a few  minutes  draw  up  in  the 
Bonaventure  street  station,  a grim  and  dingy  shed,  unworthy 
the  beautiful  city  and  the  wealthy  and  extensive  Grand  Trunk 
Railway. 

The  Central  Vermont  Route. 

From  Concord  to  Montreal  one  of  the  most  direct  and 
favorite  routes,  especially  for  passengers  desiring  to  stop  at 
any  of  the  Vermont  watering  places  by  the  way,  is  that  by  the 
Northern  Kailroad  to  White  River  Junction,  and  thence  via 
Montpelier  and  St.  Albans  to  St.  John’s.  The  road  passes 
north  from  Concord,  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Merrimack, 
by  the  manufacturing  village  of  Fisherville,  then  crosses  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Contoocock  River  to  Dustin’s  Island, 
and  thence  to  t^  e left  bank.  On  the  island  (which  is  noted  as 
the  spot  where  Hannah  Dustin,  who  was  captured  by  the  In- 
dians, at  the  sacking  of  Haverhill,  Mass  , slew  a number  of 
her  savage  guards  and  escaped)  a gmnite  monument  to  her 
was  dedicated,  with  imposing  cereixidnies,  in  the  Summer  of 
1874,  on  the  spot  of  the  slaughter.  From  this  point  we  tra- 
verse the  rich  lands  of  Boscawen  and  Franklin,  (the  birthplace 
of  Daniel  Webster,  in  1782,  and  now  a thriving  factory  vil- 
lage, whence  a branch  runs  18  miles  up  the  Pemigewasset 
Valley  to  Bristol)  through  the  Andovers  to  Potter  Place, 
whence  stages  run  to  Mount  Kearsarge,  four  miles  south. 
From  its  2461  feet  of  elevation  a fine  view  of  the  Green  Moun- 
tains, Lake  Winipiseogee  and  the  White  Mountains  is  ob- 
tained. The  Kearsarge  House,  near  the  railway  station,  has 
good  accommodations  for  the  visitgr.  Thence  we  proceed  to 
White  River  Junction,  144  miles  from  Boston,  where  we  cross 
the  Connecticut  River  on  an  open  bridge,  affording  a fine  view 
up  and  down,  and  draw  up  alongside  the  broad  platform  of  the 
station.  At  this  Junction  the  Centra,!  Vermont  Railroad  to  St. 
Albans,  Connecticut  Valley  Railroad  from  Bellows  Falls  and 


212 


TOURISTS^  HANDROOK. 


places  south,  the  Passumpsic  and  Connecticut  Rivers  Railroad 
to  ‘Newport,  Vt.,  and  the  road  over  which  we  have  just 
passed,  all  centre.  The  Junction  House  at  this  place  has 
long  been  a favorite  with  the  travelling  public.  It  offers 
special  conveniences  for  those  who  are  travelling  between 
Canada  and  Boston  or  New  York.  Through  trains  arrive  here 
at  all  hours  of  the  day  and  night,  making  sometimes  a long 
stop.  This  house,  which  is  but  a few  steps  from  the  station, 
and  is  everyway  a first-rate  hotel,  gives  to  all  travellers  needed 
rest  and  refreshment.  There  is  also  a large  dining  hall,  well 
supplied,  in  the  station,  and  as  all  trains  stop  long  enough  for 
a good  honest  dinner,  the  passenger  is  sure  of  good  fare  either 
at  the  station  or  hotel.  Both  are  kept  by  the  Messrs.  A.  T.  & 
O.  F.  Barron,  the  famous  hosts  of  the  Crawford  and  Twin 
Mountain  Houses,  in  the  White  Mountains.  We  now  ascend 
the  valley  of  the  picturesque  White  River,  for  about  25  miles, 
to  Roxbury,  the  summit  of  the  pass,  1,000  feet  above  the  sea 
level,  by  which  we  cross  the  Green  Mountain  chain.  Here 
are  quarries  of  splendid  verd  antique  marble,  and  just  across 
a bridge,  400  feet  long  and  70  high,  is  the  town  of  North- 
field,  renowned  for  slate  quarries,  and  the  Norwich  Military 
Institute.  Ten  miles  further,  or  207  from  Boston,  is  Mont- 
pelier Junction,  whence  a branch  of  a mile  leads  to  the  village, 
the  Capital  of  Vermont  Montpelier  is  a pleasant  and  attractive 
place,  on  the  Winooski  or  Onion  River,  which  makes  its  way 
hence  to  Lake  Champlain,  at  Burlington.  The  village  is 
situated  on  a sort  of  plateau  surrounded  by  hills,  and  is  neatly 
and  compactly  built.  The  State  House,  a fine  edifice,  of  light 
granite,  fronts  on  a beautiful  common,  and  standing  on  a con- 
siderable elevation,  is  reached  by  terraces  and  steps  of  granite. 
It  contains  Larkin  G.  Mead’s  marble  statue  of  Ethan  Allen,  and 
trophies  of  Vermont  valor  in  the  several  wars  of  the  nation, 
among  them  2 cannon  captured  from  the  Hessians,  at  Ben- 
nington. The  State  House  is  surmounted  with  a dome  124  feet 
high,  crowned  with  a marble  statue  of  Ceres.  The  country 
about  Montpelier  abounds  in  pleasant  drives.  Beyond  the 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


213 


Junction,  the  main  line  passes  through  Middlesex  to  Water- 
bury,  the  point  of  departure  for  Mount  Mansfield  and  Camel’s 
Hump.  The  latter  is  eight  miles  south,  and  can  be  visited 
from  Waterbury.  On  the  way,  3 miles  from  the  station,  are 
the  romantic  Holton  Falb.  Stowe,  10  miles  north  of  Water- 
bury,  is  the  objective  point  for  visitors  to  Mount  Mansfield, 
and  a drive  of  8 miles  from  Stowe  brings  one  to  the  summit, 
4348  feet  above  the  sea  level. 

Stowe  and  Mount  Mansfield. 

Stowe  is  often  called  “The  Saratoga  of  Vermont,”  from  the 
number  of  summer  visitors  who  fiock  hither,  each  season. 
Here  is  located  the  famous  Mount  Mansfield  Hotel,  accom- 
modating 400  guests,  with  large  airy  rooms,  in  suites  or  pri- 
vate parlors,  brilliantly  lighted  w.th  gas,  supplied  with  livery 
stables,  bowling  alleys,  croquet  grounds,  cafe,  theatre,  and 
billiard  halls.  A telegraph  office  is  near  by;  and  the  table  is 
spread  with  the  choicest  delicacies  of  the  season.  A good  road 
has  been  built  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  over  which  visitors 
can  be  taken  with  safety,  without  change  of  carriages.  The 
summit  is  broken  into  3 peaks,  called  the  forehead,  the  nose, 
and  the  chin,  from  a fancied  resemblance  in  their  outline,  to  a 
human  face  turned  upward.  The  Smuggler’s  Notch  is  a deep 
rocky  pass  between  the  Nose  and  Mt.  Sterling,  and  was  used  in 
the  war  of  1812,  for  smuggling  goods  between  Central  Vermont 
and  Canada.  A small  hotel  stands  in  the  Notch,  near  a great 
spring,  the  source  of  the  Waterbury  river.  Many  other  places 
of  interest  are  found  near  Stowe,  and  its  popularity  as  a Sum- 
mer resort  is  well  deserved.  Continuing  our  journey,  the 
country  growing  more  open  and  fertile,  and  the  Winooski 
River  being  often  in  view,  with  its  many  falls  and  rapids, 
Essex  junction  is  reached,  240  miles  from  Boston,  whence  a 
branch  runs  eight  miles  west,  to  Burlington,  there  connecting 
with  the  Rutland  Division  of  the  railroad.  We  follow  the 
Winooski  River  closely,  past  the  famous  falls  and  gorges, 
and  is  a romantic  bit  of  travel.  The  main  line  continues  north 


214 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


from  Essex,  crossing  the  Lamoille  river  on  a bridge  450  feet 
long,  and  stops  at  St.  Albans,  264  miles  from  Boston.  In  Mil- 
ton  are  the  great  falls  of  the  Lamoille,  100  feet  high,  affording 
power  for  extensive  lumber  mils.  Several  fine  views  of  the 
lake  are  gained  during  the  last  few  m les. 

St.  Albans  and  its  Advantages. 

St.  Albans  is  blessed  with  one  of  the  most  sightly  locations 
in  the  world,  and  with  the  central  offices  and  works  of  the 
Central  Vermont  Railroad,  two  advantages  not  lightly  to  be 
despised.  It  has  also  much  history  of  warlike  prowess  to 
recount.  It  stands  on  a sort  of  table  land  three  miles  from 
Lake  Champlain,  which  is  spread  out  before  the  eye  of  any 
one  who  will  drive  about  town  and  ascend  Bellevue  or  Aldis 
Hills,  and  such  a pro  pect  is  rarely  gained.  Steamers  cross 
the  lake  daily  from  St.  A1  ans  Bay,  the  nearest  point  on  the 
shore,  to  Plattsburgh,  N.  Y.  St.  Albans  has  about  6000  in- 
habitants and  one  first-class  hotel,  the  Weldon  House.  The 
great  railway  s.tation  of  brick,  with  its  commodious  offices  and 
its  many  tracks,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  New  England,  and  the 
great  car  shops  nearby  furnish  employment  for  several  hun- 
dred men.  This  is  the  great  butter  and  cheese  market  of  New 
England,  and  St.  Albans  quotations  rule  the  countrv  in  dairy 
products.  In  1864,  the  famous  raid  of  22  armed  Confederates 
from  Canada  occurred,  resulting  in  the  plundering  of  the 
banks  of  $208,000  in  cash,  the  shooting  of  several  citizens, 
one  fatally,  and  a safe  retreat  into  Canada.  In  June,  1866,  a 
Fenian  army  assembled  here,  made  a raid  across  the  line,  re- 
tired, and  was  disarmed  by  United  States  troops.  In  April, 
1870,  the  same  thing  was  repeated  in  every  detail.  Thus, 
though  there  has  been  little  actual  fighting  here,  St.  Albans 
has  been  the  scene  of  some  very  extensive  wars  on  a small 
scale. 

The  Vermont  Mineral  Springs. 

Ten  miles  from  St.  Albans,  the  Eastern  Division  of  the 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


2IS 


milrolui  — to  Richford  as  previously  noted  — passes  through 
Sheldon  Springs,  where  are  the  famous  Missisquoi,  Sheldon, 
Vermont,  Continental  and  Central  Springs.  The  Missisquoi 
Falls,  1 19  feet  high,  are  near  the  Sheldon  Spring,  which  is  a 
mile  from  the  Missisquoi,  and  the  Central  Spring  is  two  miles 
east.  Near  the  Missisquoi  stands  the  Missisquoi  House,  a 
large  and  first-class  summer  hotel;  near  the  Sheldon  Spring 
is  Congress  Hall,  another  fine  house ; and  near  the  Central 
Spring  are  many  hotels  and  boarding  houses,  going  to  make 
up  Sheldon  Village.  The  waters  of  these  springs  are  cele- 
brated for  their  cures  of  cutaneous  disorders  — dyspepsia  and 
liver  complaints,  cancer,  etc.  They  are  extensively  bottled, 
and  also  used  for  bathing. 

On  the  main  line  north  from  St.  Albans,  a ride  of  nine 
miles  past  Swanton  Junction  and  East  Swanton,  brings  us  to 
Highgate  Springs,  (where  the  Franklin  House  accom- 
modates some  200  guests  in  the  season).  Two  miles  south- 
east, Highgate  Falls  on  the  Missisquoi  river  has  another 
spring  — the  Champlain — and  two  hotels,  the  Champlain 
and  Green  Mountain.  John  G.  Saxe,  the  poet,  was  born 
here,  and  this  is  the  border  town  of  Vermont,  the  train  soon 
crossing  the  line  into  Her  Majesty’s  Dominion  of  Canada,  a 
fact  which  fails  to  impress  us  if  we  don’t  happen  to  know 
where  it  occurs.  We  now  traverse  several  Canadian  town- 
ships on  the  banks  of  the  Richelieu,  with  the  isolated  peaks 
of  Beloeil  and  Rougemont^isible  on  the  right,  and  soon  reach 
St.  Alexandre,  307  miles  from  Boston,  where  we  cross  the 
Richelieu  to  St.  Johns,  whence  we  proceed  to  Montreal  as 
already  described. 

Another  route  from  St.  Albans  diverges  from  that  last 
mentioned  at  Swanton  Junction,  whence  we  pass  Alburgh 
Springs,  16  miles  from  St.  Albans  and  291  from  Boston. 
Here  are  famous  mineral  waters  used  in  cutaneous  disorders, 
and  a fine  hotel,  the  Alburgh  Springs  House.  There  are  fine 
drives  on  the  lake  shore,  and  excellent  boating  and  fishing. 
Passing  Alburgh  and  West  Alburgh,  our  train  crosses  the 


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TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


outlet  of  Lake  Champlain  on  a long  trestle  bridge,  to  Rouse’s 
Point,  N.  Y.,  whence  the  Western  Division  of  the  Central 
Vermont,  over  which  we  have  just  come,  continues  northwest 
to  Ogdensburgh  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  141  miles  from  St.  Al- 
bans and  406  from  Boston.  The  Champlain  Division  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  conveys  us  hence,  along  the  left  bank 
of  the  Richelieu,  23  miles  to  St.  John’s. 

Yet  another  Route. 

At  White  River  Junction,  if  we  choose,  instead  of  proceed- 
ing northwest  by  the  Central  Vermont,  we  may  follow  the 
Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Rivers  Railroad  through  Nor- 
wich, whence  stages  run  to  Hanover,  about  a mile  southeast, 
the  seat  of  Dartmouth  College,  to  Wells  River,  184  miles  from 
Boston,  whence  the  Montpelier  and  Wells  River  Railroad, 
opened  in  1874,  makes  close  connections  for  Montpelier,  38 
miles  distant.  The  line  passes  by  a sweeping  curve,  up 
through  ^Ryegate,  Groton,  Peacham,  Marshfield  and  Plain- 
field  to  the  capital,  where  we  connect  with  the  Central  Ver- 
mont for  St.  Albans,  by  the  route  already  described. 

Prom  Rutland  to  Montreal. 

If  it  be  desired  to  proceed  direct  from  Rutland  to  Montreal, 
the  Rutland  Division  of  the  Central  Vermont,  by  which  onr 
route  lay  from  Bellows  Falls,  will  be  adhered  to,  and  we  shall 
continue  north  to  Burlington,  234  mile*  from  Boston,  68  from 
Rutland.  This  route  is  very  direct,  and  carries  one  through 
several  places  of  considerable  interest.  At  Sutherland  Falls, 
a splendid  view  is  presented  from  the  car  windows.  A deep 
gorge,  curtained  by  tall  trees  which  almost  obscure  the  vision 
of  the  falling  waters,  flashing  through  the  rifts  in  the  foliage 
as  the  branches  are  swayed  in  the  wind,  opens  on  the  one 
side ; while  to  the  other  it  spreads  out  into  a lovely  intervale, 
with  smooth,  green  meadows  and  smiling  farms,  while  an 
amphitheatre  of  majestic  mountains  forms  the  background. 
As  we  journey  onward,  we  see  all  along  green  and  fertile 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK, 


217 


meadows,  mirror-like  streams,  and  the  grand  array  of  moun- 
tains. Sixteen  miles  north  of  Rutland  is  Brandon.  This 
town  contains  two  singular  caverns  in  limestone,  eighteen  feet 
square,  entered  by  going  down  twenty  feet  from  the  surface. 
There  is  a marble  quarry  in  the  place;  and  minerals  of  differ- 
ent kinds  abound.  One  of  the  notable  curiosities  and  won- 
ders of  Brandon  is  to  be  found  in  the  works  of  the  Brandon 
Manufacturing  Company.  Howe’s  standard  scales  are  made 
here,  arid  have  made  their  name  familiar  with  all  the  dealers 
in  goods  sold  by  weight.  At  this  place  the  Brandon  House 
affords  pleasant  accommodations  to  those  desiring  to  spend  a 
few  days  in  the  vicinity  and  visit  the  numerous  points  of  in- 
terest, or  to  those  whose  business  brings  them  hither,  of 
whom  many  every  year  avail  themselves  of  its  comfortable, 
homelike  arrangements.  At  Pittsford,  midway  between 
Brandon  and  Rutland,  is  located  a fine  medicinal  spring,  its 
qualities  being  similar  to  those  of  the  famous  Clarendon 
Spring  at  Saratoga;  and  there  is,  besides,  the  best  of  trout- 
fishing in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The  drives  are  delightful; 
and  the  marble  quarries,  like  those  of  Rutland  and  Brandon, 
are  of  great  interest  to  strangers.  For  their  comfort  the  Otter 
Creek  House  affords  a pleasant  stopping-place. 

Nine  miles  from  Brandon  by  stage,  and  eight  miles  from 
Middlebury,  is  Lake  Dunmore,  a sheet  of  water  nine  miles 
long  and  three  wide.  It  is  surrounded  by  a pleasant  variety 
of  high  bluffs,  and  green,  sloping  hillsides.  The  bracing 
mountain  air  and  the  fishing  in  the  vicinity  have  made  this 
quite  a popular  resort.  The  Lake  Dunmore  House  is  fitted 
up  with  special  reference  to  the  wants  of  visitors  at  the  lake, 
and  is  well  adapted  to  its  purpose.  Middlebury,  fifteen  miles 
north  of  Brandon,  is  on  the  Otter  Creek,  and  has  on  every 
side  most  beautiful  wild  mountain  scenery.  White  and  va- 
riegated marble  is  found  near  by,  and  is  exported  in  large 
quantities.  This  place  is  the  seat  of  Middlebury  College. 
Good  fare  and  rest  for  travellers  is  furnished  at  the  Addison 
House.  From  this  centre  the  distance  is  short  to  Lakes 
10 


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TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


George,  Dunmore  and  Champlain,  Grand  View  Mountain, 
and  Belden  Falls.  Soon  the  road  approaches  the  shore  of 
Lake  Champlain,  and  we  catch  fleeting  glimpses,  through  the 
openings  in  the  trees,  of  its  glittering,  sheeny  surface. 
Stretching  away  in  the  distance,  its  dancing  waves,  capped 
occasionally  by  a flitting  sail,  seem  the  embodiment  of  liquid 
life;  while  in  the  distance,  looming  hazy  and  only  half  sub- 
stantial in  their  purple  bloom,  we  see  the  peaks  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  far  beyond  the  clear  expanse  of  waters. 

Vergennes,  fourteen  miles  north  of  Middlebury,  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  Otter  Creek,  is  the  oldest  city  of  Vermont. 
There  is  an  United  States  arsenal  there ; and  much  of  the 
ship-building  for  Lake  Champlain  has  been  done  at  the  place. 
Otter  Creek  is  here  500  feet  wide,  and  is  navigable  for  the 
largest  craft  on  the  lake.  At  Vergennes,  also,  many  visitors 
stop  for  a few  days  to  enjoy  the  view  of  the  falls,  the  sail 
down  Otter  Creek  and  upon  Lake  Champlain,  and  the  de- 
lightful drives  in  the  neighborhood.  For  all  such  tourists 
the  Stevens  House  affords  a desirable  stopping-place.  A 
steamer  connects  Vergennes  with  Port  Henry  on  the  west 
side  of  Lake  Champlain,  landing  at  Fort  Cassin,  Basin  Har- 
bor, and  Westport,  thus  giving  one  of  the  direct  routes  to  the 
Adirondack  Mountains.  The  Otter  Creek  Falls,  at  Vergennes, 
are  divided  by  an  island,  on  both  sides  of  which  the  water 
makes  a descent  of  35  feet.  At  Ferrisburg  a dam,  with  its 
flashing  sheet  of  water,  forms  the  foreground  of  as  delightful 
a scene  as  a painter  would  wish  to  put  on  canvas ; while  to 
the  left,  across  the  meadows,  opens  a picture  of  a quiet  brook, 
and  the  neatly-kept  grounds  and  cottage  of  some  thrifty  far- 
mer. Near  Shelburne  we  get  a lovely  view  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain ; and  a little  above,  the  cars  pass  very  near  to  the  water 
side,  and  we  see  the  field  of  liquid  azure  stretching  away  from 
our  very  feet,  with  its  emerald  isles  nestled  cosily  on  the 
broad  bosom  of  the  lake.  The  purple  peaks  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks  are  in  full  view;  and,  with  the  soft  haze  which  covers 
their  rugged  sides,  they  seem  the  enchanted  mountains  of  our 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


219 


dreams.  Soon  the  bright  picture  fades ; the  shores  of  the 
lake  recede ; and  the  train  dashes  through  tracts  of  woodland 
obscuring  the  view,  and  giving  only  transient  glimpses  of  the 
scenes  we  have  so  admired,  and  21  miles  from  Vergennes,  we 
emerge  upon  the  very  shore  of  the  lake,  between  immense 
piles  of  lumber,  skirt  a long  row  of  wharves  and  stop  in  the 
large  station  at  Burlington.  Thence  our  route  to  Essex 
Junction  and  St.  Albans  and  so  to  Montreal  has  been  already 
described. 


Prom  Plattsburgh,  to  Montreal. 

From  Plattsburgh  there  are  three  routes  to  Montreal, 
neither  of  which  requires  long  description.  We  may  take  the 
steamer  to  Rouse’s  Point  and  the  railroad  thence  to  St. 
John’s  as  already  described ; or  we  may  take  the  cars  over  the 
New  York  and  Canada  Railroad,  to  Mooer’s,  through  an  in- 
teresting country,  newly  cleared,  flat  and  swampy,  and  thence 
to  Rouse’s  Point.  Or,  if  novelty  be  desired  and  time  be  no 
object,  we  may  continue  on  the  New  York  and  Canada  to 
Province  Line,  then  change  to  the  cars  of  the  Grand  Trunk 
which  here  connects,  and  solemnly  meander  northward,  past 
the  little  Canadian  villages  — consisting  chiefly  of  log  cabins 
and  tin  roofed  churches  — of  Hemmingford,  La  Pigeoniere, 
St.  Remi  and  St.  Isidore  to  the  Indian  Village  of  Caughna- 
waga  on  the  south  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Here  a squalid 
ferry-boat  is  taken  for  the  transit  across  the  river  to  Lachine, 
where  we  disembark,  and  in  due  time  — it  may  be  flve  min- 
utes or  it  may  be  an  hour  — take  another  train  for  Montreal, 
8 miles  distant.  The  trip  embraces  only  63  miles  from  Platts- 
burgh, but  it  consumes  four  hours.  At  each  of  the  stations 
the  trains  stops  ten  minutes  or  so,  while  the  conductor  and 
other  train  hands  and  such  of  the  passengers  as  can  talk 
the  French  Canadian  ^patois  go  ashore  ” and  swap  jokes  with 
the  loungers  about  the  little  depots.  The  loungers  embrace 
pretty  much  the  entire  able-bodied  population  of  each  village, 
and  they  turn-out  e7i  masse  and  stroll^down  to  the  station 


220 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


when  the  train  comes,  for  their  daily  feast  of  gossip.  This 
cannot  be  called  an  enlivening  journey,  but  if  one  have  a taste 
for  the  odd  things  of  travel  and  plenty  of  time,  it  is  worth 
trying.  As  ‘‘all  roads  lead  to  Rome”  so  each  of  the  routes 
described  will  bring  the  wayfarer  to  Montreal,  if  that  be  the 
object  of  desire. 


CHAPTER  X. 


Niagara  Falls. 

lAGARA  Falls  can  be 
easily  reached  from 
Saratoga,  by  resuming 
the  cars  of  the  Rens- 
selaer and  Saratoga 
Railroad,  via  Ballston 
to  Schenectady,  23  miles 
southwest,  and  252  miles 
from  Boston.  Schenec- 
tady is  noted  as  the  seat 
of  Union  College,  which 
stands  on  the  heights, 
overlooking  the  city. 
The  buildings  consist  of 
two  large  halls,  with  a 
beautiful  stone  library 
between,  and  the  Uni- 
versity bears  a high 
reputation.  Schenectady 
stands  on  a broad  plain, 
near  the  Mohawk,  and  is  a city  of  12,000  inhabitants;  its  iron 
works  are  the  chief  industries.  Here  we  transfer  ourselves  to 
the  dingy  and  comfortless  wooden  shed,  dignified  with  the 
name  of  depot,  and  wait  the  arrival  of  the  train  over  the  New 
York  Central  Railroad,  from  Albany,  bound  for  Niagara.  For 


222 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


nearly  loo  miles  the  road  follows  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk; 
and  much  of  the  time  the  river  is  in  sight.  At  Fonda,  279 
miles  from  Boston,  a road  diverges  to  Johnstown  and  Glovers- 
ville,  10  miles  north,  the  principal  manufactories  of  buckskin 
gloves  and  mittens  in  the  country.  At  Little  Falls,  309  miles 
from  Boston,  the  Mohawk  descends  45  feet,  furnishing  power 
for  many  factories.  This  town  and  Herkimer,  seven  miles 
further,  are  famous  for  the  shipment  of  the  rich  cheese  pro- 
duced in  the  fertile  country  hereabout.  Ilion,  two  miles 
beyond  Herkimer,  is  a town  of  some  4000  inhabitants,  where 
the  famous  Remington  Arms  Factory  employs  1000  men. 
Twelve  miles  further  the  train  crosses  the  Mohawk,  on  an 
iron  bridge,  and  enters  Utica,  330  miles  from  Boston,  a city  of 
30,000  inhabitants,  and  the  business  centre  of  a rich  and  exten- 
sive farming  country.  The  Erie  Canal  passes  through  Utica, 
and  is  joined  by  the  Chenango  Canal  to  Binghamton,  97  miles 
South.  Utica  is  the  seat  of  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  and  several 
well  reputed  educational  institutions,  and  is  a beautiful  and 
pleasant  place  of  residence.  The  Black  River  and  Utica  Rail- 
road runs  northwest  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  Clayton,  and  other 
railroad  connections  are  made  Southward  to  Norwich  and 
Binghamton.  By  the  Black  River  road,  an  excursion  is 
made  in  40  minutes  to  Trenton  Falls,  17  miles  North,  on  the 
West  Canada  Creek,  a tributary  of  the  Mohawk.  The  water 
descends  200  feet,  by  five  cascades,  plunging  down  into  a deep 
chasm  in  the  limestone  rock,  with  perpendicular  walls,  from 
70  to  200  feet  high.  Tlie  water  is  of  a dark  amber  hue,  and 
the  various  colors  given  out  as  it  flashes  over  the  rocks,  and 
is  lighted  by  the  sun’s  rays,  are  very  novel  and  beautiful. 
The  Sherman,  High,  Milldam,  Alhambra,  and  Prospect  Falls 
are  successively  reached  by  ascending  the  canon  from  Moore’s 
Trenton  Falls  House,  and  vary  in  height  from  a few  feet  to 
80  (the  High  Falls.)  The  Alhambra,  near  the  fall  of  the  same 
name,  is  a broad  stone  platform,  walled  by  the  gorge.  Rome, 
344  miles  from  Boston,  is  quite  a railroad  centre  for  this  region. 
It  is  a city  of  11,000  inhabitants,  with  a United  States  Arsenal 


TotTRisTs^  Handbook, 


2^3 


for  its  principal  object  of  note,  and  the  Rome,  Watertown  and 
Ogdensburgh  Railroad,  sweeping  in  a bold  curve  which  follows 
the  general  outline  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  the  upper  St.  Law- 
rence, through  Watertown,  to  Ogdensburgh  and  Potsdam, 
with  branches  to  Sackett’s  Harbor,  as  its  great  artery  of  trade 
and  travel.  From  Rome,  we  proceed  southwest,  by  Verona,' 
whose  springs,  saturated  with  muriate  of  soda  and  sulphuretted 
hydrogen  gas,  are  strongly  medicinal,  and  resemble  the  Eng- 
lish Harrowgate  springs,  to  Oneida,  a village  of  4,000  popula- 
tion, near  the  lake  of  the  same,  which  we  skirt  on  the  South, 
at  a few  miles  distance.  Here  the  New  York  and  Oswego 
Midland  Railroad  crosses  the  New  York  Central,  running 
northwest  to  Oswego,  on  Lake  Ontario,  57  miles.  Near 
Oneida  is  the  celebrated  Free  Love  Commuity.  Chittenango, 
II  miles  from  Oneida,  is  the  location  of  several  medicinal 
springs,  similar  to  the  White  Sulphur  of  Virginia.  Kirkville 
and  Manlius  are  passed,  near  which  are  other  sulphuretted 
waters,  and  we  arrive  at  Syracuse,  383  miles  from  Boston,  the 
great  salt  manufactory  of  the  country.  Syracuse  is  a city  of 
55,000  inhabitants,  located  very  near  the  geographical  and 
railroad  centre  of  the  State,  and  hence  is  the  meeting  place 
of  many  conventions.  Besides  the  New  York  Central,  rail- 
roads run  to  Oswego  and  Sandy  Creek  on  the  north  and 
northeast,  to  Burlington  south,  and  to  Norwich  southeast. 
There  are  here  many  fine  buildings,  the  Court  House  of  Onon- 
daga county,  the  Penitentiary,  three  Orphan  Asylums,  the 
State  Idiot  Asylum,  City  Hall,  Syracuse  University,  two  Con- 
vents and  many  churches  being  the  chief. 

The  gray  and  imposing  Renwick  Castle  near  the  University 
is  seen  over  the  trees,  and  produces  a fine  effect.  The  great 
curiosity,  as  well  as  the  principal  source  of  wealth  of  Syra- 
cuse, is  the  salt  manufactory,  which  lies  near  Onondaga  Lake, 
a little  northwest  of  the  city.  Here  great  natural  salt  springs 
or  wells  yield  in  unlimited  quantities  a brine  so  strong  that 
35  gallons  yield  a bushel  of  salt.  Some  5000  laborers,  40,000 
solar  vats  and  20  kettles  are  employed,  and  200,000  tons  of 


224 


^outiiSTS^  handbook. 


coal  annually  burned.  The  production  since  1797,  when  the 
State  took  control,  has  been  some  230,000,000  bushels,  and  is 
now  at  the  rate  of  8,000,000  to  9,000,000  bushels.  Horse  cars 
convey  the  visitor  to  these  works.  Onondaga  Lake,  near 
which  the  Indian  tribe  of  the  same  name  used  to  have  its 
fortress,  is  six  miles  long  by  one  mile  wide,  and  is  traversed 
by  small  steamers  and  pleasure  boats.  From  Syracuse  to 
Rochester,  the  New  York  Central  has  two  routes,  — the  old, 
through  Auburn,  Geneva  and  Canandaigua,  passing  near  the 
northern  ends  of  the  Skaneateles,  Owasco,  Cayuga,  Seneca 
and  Canandaigua  Lakes,  which  look  on  the  map  like  so  many 
sweet  potatoes  laid  side  by  side,  and  at  Canandaigua  turns 
northwest  and  proceeds  to  Rochester,  making  the  distance 
from  Syracuse  102  miles ; and  the  new  or  northern  route, 
which  passes  in  nearly  a straight  line  through  Port  Byron, 
Lyons  and  Palmyra  to  Rochester,  in  81  miles,  or  464  from 
Boston.  The  through  trains  take  the  latter  course.  There  is 
nothing  of  special  interest  to  note  until  we  reach  Clyde,  but 
at  the  latter  village,  36  miles  from  Syracuse,  we  enter  the 
paradise  of  mint  juleps,  the  grand  storehouse  of  peppermint 
in  its  crude  form.  Here  are  thousands  of  acres  of  mint  on 
every  side,  one-third  of  all  used  in  the  country  being  grown 
hereabouts.  It  is  cut  and  distilled,  yielding  20  pounds  or  so 
of  oil  to  the  acre  of  herb.  We  now  follow  the  Erie  Canal, 
and  catch  frequent  glimpses  of  the  noble  craft  plowing  the 
waters,  under  the  impetus  afforded  by  the  gentle  mule  on  the 
tow-path.  To  be  the  captain  of  one  of  these  magnificent 
floating  palaces,  with  its  freight  of  grain  and  hops  and  hap- 
piness and  hop-poles  is  indeed  a proud  ambition.  Palmyra, 
56  miles  from  Syracuse,  is  the  place  where  Joseph  Smith,  the 
Mormon  prophet,  pretended  to  And  the  golden  plates  of  the 
Book  of  Mormon. 

Rochester  and  its  Attractions. 

Still  following  the  Erie  Canal,  through  a number  of  unim- 
portant townships,  we  enter  the  beautiful  outskirts  of  Roches- 


tOURISfS*  HANDBOOiC, 


22S 


ter,  cross  the  Gencssee  River  just  above  its  famous  falls,  and 
reach  the  railway  station  near  the  centre  of  the  city.  Roch- 
ester is  a handsome  city  of  70,000  inhabitants,  built  on  both 
sides  of  the  Genesee  River,  seven  miles  from  its  mouth  at 
Lake  Ontario.  It  is  the  capitol  of  Monroe  County,  and  the 
fine  county  buildings  are  located  here.  The  City  Hall,  the 
University  of  Rochester,  some  60  churches,  several  hospitals 
and  asylums,  numerous  schools  and  business  blocks,  are  also 
handsome  and  costly  structures.  The  Powers  Building  is  the 
most  notable  thing  in  the  architectural  line  which  Rochester 
has  to  show.  It  stands  on  the  corner  of  Buffalo  and  State 
streets,  and  is  probably  without  an  equal  in  this  country  as  a 
business  structure.  It  fronts  175  feet  on  each  street,  and  is 
seven  stories  high  besides  the  basement,  which  is  of  New 
Hampshire  granite,  and  a full  story  in  height.  The  rest  of 
the  block  is  of  Ohio  stone  and  iron.  The  whole  is  surmount- 
ed by  a square  tower  30  by  24  feet,  which  rises  five  stories 
higher,  the  tiled  “sky  floor”  being  163  feet  above  the  street. 
The  building  is  quadrangular  in  form,  and  tubular  in  con- 
struction, having  an  open  area  in  the  centre  for  the  purpose 
of  light.  The  ground  floor  contains  a bank  and  fifteen  stores, 
and  the  upper  stories  contain  220  rooms,  used  for  purposes  of 
business  of  all  sorts,  and  for  lodgings.  Indeed,  the  block  is  a 
city  in  itself,  and  a person  could  live,  carry  on  business,  at- 
tend amusements,  make  calls,  and  view  a good  deal  of  the 
country  without  ever  leaving  the  building.  The  halls  are  a 1 
tiled  with  marble,  the  stairways  are  of  iron,  and  all  the  floors 
are  supported  on  iron  girders  and  brick  arches,  the  partitions 
are  of  brick  and  the  window  frames  of  iron.  Each  main  wall 
rests  on  the  solid  bed  rock.  The  grand  staircase  cost  $20,000, 
and  contains  fifty  tons  of  iron.  1 he  entire  building  is  heated 
by  steam.  There  are  about  1000  tenants,  and  the  building 
would  hold  80  000  people  on  its  ten  acres  of  flooring.  Two 
powerful  elevators  ascend  the  building,  the  car  of  one  of 
which  is  the  finest  in  the  country.  The  view  from  the  top  of 
the  tower,  400  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  is  magnificent 


226 


TOURISTS’  HANDBOOK. 


in  its  breadth  and  variety.  In  a clear  day  the  Ganadiail 
shore  is  visible,  and  the  commerce  of  the  lake  flitting  by  adds 
the  element  of  life  to  the  fair  picture. 

Another  of  the  curiosities  of  Rochester  is  the  great  aqueduct 
by  which  the  Erie  Canal  crosses  the  Genesee  river.  This  was 
considered  an  impossible  undertaking  when  the  canal  was 
projected,  and  its  completion  was  deemed  a wonderful  triumph 
of  engineering  skill.  The  aqueduct  is  of  cut  stone  supported 
on  massive  piers.  The  Genesee  Valley  Canal  here  joins  the 
Erie,  after  descending  978  feet  by  97  locks,  in  its  125  miles  of 
length,  from  the  Pennsylvania  mountains.  The  Genesee 
River,  which  flows  through  the  heart  of  the  city,  is  bridged 
by  Main  street,  which  is  built  so  solidly  that  one  would  never 
suspect  a river  flowed  beneath,  the  buildings  standing  on 
stone  arches  through  which  the  water  passes.  The  Genesee 
and  its  famous  falls  have  been  the  cause  of  Rochester’s  pros- 
perity. The  immense  water  power  afforded  by  the  falls  has 
been  utilized  for  the  propulsion  of  many  flowing  mills,  the 
wheat  coming  from  the  rich  country  near  at  hand.  These 
falls  are  but  a short  distance  from  the  center  of  the  city,  and 
are  best  seen  from  an  enclosure,  known  as  ‘‘  Falls  Field,”  with 
a small  admission  fee.  The  river  here  pours  over  a ledge  of 
solid  rock,  96  feet  high,  down  into  a walled  gorge.  The  fall 
is  very  picturesque  and  only  less  majestic  than  Niagara.  Here 
Sam  Patch  made  his  fatal  leap.  Nearly  two  miles  below,  the 
middle  falls,  25  feet  high,  are  reached  by  horse  cars,  and  a little 
further  on  are  the  lower  falls,  84  feet  high,  much  the  most 
picturesque  of  the  three.  Rochester  is  also  famed  for  its  nur- 
series of  fruit  trees  and  shrubs,  for  its  flower  seed  establishments 
and  for  its  beautiful  streets,  shaded  by  fine  trees  and  bordered 
by  handsome  residences.  From  Rochester  railroads  diverge 
to  Charlotte,  seven  miles  North,  where  steamers  touch  on  their 
way  between  Oswego  and  Toronto  ; to  Buffalo,  69  miles  West  at 
the  eastern  extremity  of  Lake  Erie,  passing  through  the 
prosperous  village  of  Batavia,  the  capital  of  Genesee  county; 
to  Cooming,  95  miles  Southeast,  the  junction  of  the  Erie  Rail- 


tOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


227 

\vaj;  Southwest  to  Caledonia,  where  the  Canandaigua  and 
Niagara  Fall  Railroad  is  joined,  and  West  77  miles  to  Niagara 
Falls. 

Rochester  to  the  Suspension  Bridge. 

From  Rochester  our  route  lies  in  a generally  almost  due 
westerly  direction,  passing  through  Medina  (near  which  are 
the  Oak  Orchard  Acid  Springs),  and  Lockport,  where  the 
Erie  Canal  descends  from  the  “Erie  Level”  to  the  “Genesee 
Level,”  66  feet,  by  ten  double  locks  of  solid  cut  stone. 
These  locks  may  be  seen  from  the  train,  and  give  their  name 
to  the  city.  When  viewed  in  the  evening,  with  the  long  lines 
of  lights  on  either  side  the  canal  and  on  the  boats  in  the  locks 
at  the  different  levels,  the  scene  is  romantic  and  fairy-like. 
The  canal  also  furnishes  a large  surplus  of  water  which  is  used 
for  driving  flouring  mills  and  factories.  Here  we  cross  the 
canal,  with  which  we  henceforth  part  company.  From  Lock- 
port,  a branch  railroad  runs  southwest  to  Buffalo,  26  miles. 
Nineteen  miles  further  brings  us  to  Suspension  Bridge,  where 
the  first  view  of  the  mighty  falls  is  gained,  and  whence  a ride 
of  two  miles  along  the  eastern  or  right  bank  of  the  river, 
brings  us  to  the  village  of  Niagara  Falls. 

Niagara  Village  and  its  Hotels. 

If  we  are  to  see  the  American  side  first,  and  the  points 
accessible  therefrom,  we  will  continue  on  to  the  station 
above,  in  the  village  directly  beside  the  Falls.  There  are 
several  hotels  near  the  station.  The  Monteagle  House  will 
compare  favorably  with  any  which  the  tourist  will  visit  at  any 
place.  It  has  a fine  location  which  affords  a view  of  the  two 
Suspension  Bridges,  two  miles  of  the  River,  the  entire 
Falls  and  the  Whirlpool.  The  rooms  are  large,  airy,  and 
handsomely  furnished,  many  of  them  overlooking  the 
Rapids,  Goat  Island,  and  the  Falls;  the  table  is  unex- 
ceptionable, being  supplied  with  all  the  substantial  and 
luxuries  of  the  season ; the  attendance  is  excellent,  the 
prices  reasonable,  and  everything  about  the  house  is  home- 


228 


Toi/i^/sTS’  Hand  Book, 


like  and  enjoyable.  The  proximity  of  the  house  to  the  mighty 
rapids  (by  many  considered  the  most  pleasing  feature  of 
Niagara),  the  views  of  Goat,  Bath  and  other  islands,  and  the 
ease  with  which  one  can  visit  every  point  of  interest,  have 
made  this  house  justly  a favorite.  As  for  many  years,  the  Mon- 
teagle  House  is  under  the  management  of  Alexander  and 
Terrill,  which  is  sufficient  guarantee  of  its  continued  popular- 
ity. The  International,  Spencer  and  other  houses  are  in  the 
village  of  Niagara  Falls,  and  the  Clifton  House  on  the  Cana- 
dian shore. 


The  Tour  of  the  Islands. 

The  bridge  to  Bath  Island  has  been  mentioned.  It  is  a sub- 
stantial iron  structure,  crossing  the  river  in  the  midst  of 
the  Rapids  to  Bath  Island,  on  which  there  is  a paper  mill  and 
several  small  buildings.  A similar  but  smaller  bridge  crosses 
to  Goat  Island.  The  payment  oi  50  cents  enables  one  to  make 
the  entire  tour  of  the  islands,  or  $ i pays  for  a season  ticket. 
Goat  Island  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  Niagara.  It  would  be  a 
most  charming  and  picturesque  island  anywhere,  with  its 
noble  growth  of  forest  trees,  its  sylvan  dells,  its  fertile,  sunny 
openings,  and  its  delightful  shade.  But  here,  surrounded  by 
the  mighty  river  rushing  onward  to  its  stupendous  plunge, 
the  island  seems  to  gain  additional  beauty;  and  new  wonders 
develop  themselves  at  every  visit.  At  the  upper  end  is  the 
vast  expanse  of  the  Rapids ; on  either  side  the  marvellous 
Falls,  separated  by  the  island  itself,  which,  on  its  lower  end, 
between  the  Falls,  is  a bare  precipice  of  rock,  rising  sheer 
from  the  bed  ot  the  river  over  150  feet  in  height.  From  Goat 
Island  a small  bridge  crosses  over  the  Central  Fall,  a lovely 
sheet  of  water,  to  Luna  Island, — a tiny  islet  perched  on  the 
very  verge  of  the  precipice,  and  laved  on  either  side  by  the 
Central  and  American  Falls.  At  nearly  the  opposite  extrem- 
ity of  Goat  Island,  a bridge  is  thrown  across  a small  portion 
of  the  Rapids,  to  the  first  of  three  little  islands,  densely 
wooded,  and  known  as  the  Three  Sisters,  other  bridges  con- 


fOURIStS^  HANDBOOK, 


229 


nccting  with  the  two  remaining  islets.  From  these  a splendid 
view  of  the  mighty  rapids  down  to  the  edge  of  the  great 
Canadian  Fall,  and  the  outline  of  its  bold  sweep,  are  gained. 
At  the  edge  almost  of  this  tremendons  cataract  another  small 
foot-bridge  is  thrown  across  a slender  channel  of  water,  to  a 
rocky  prominence  in  the  very  edge  of  the  Fall  itself.  Here 
stood  Terrapin  Tower,  a circular  structure  of  stone  45 
feet  high,  famous  for  many  years,  from  the  top  of  which 
visitors  could  see  the  entire  Falls,  and  even  peer  into  the 
depths  of  the  foaming  abyss  below.  But  in  1873,  being  deemed 
unsafe,  it  was  blown  up,  and  a new  and  more  substantial 
structure  is  to  take  its  place.  Even  the  view  of  the  Rapids 
from  this  point,  or  indeed  from  any  point  on  the  islands, 
would  repay  a visit.  The  river,  with  its  mighty  volume  of 
water,  pours  over  the  rocky  bottom,  which  has  a rapid  descent, 
— over  50  feet  in  three-quarters  of  a mile,  — causing  a succes- 
sion of  small  cascades,  boiling  whirpools,  and  rushing  chan- 
nels. 

The  Biddle  Stairs,  |ind  Cave  of  the  Winds. 

On  the  face  of  the  vertical  precipice  between  the  falls,  a 
wooden  tower,  encasing  a spiral  staircase,  leads  down  to  the 
bank  of  broken  rock  and  debris^  which  has  evidently  fallen 
from  the  cliffs  above,  and  forms  a narrow  dyke,  sloping  to  the 
waters  of  the  river.  At  the  foot  of  these  “Biddle  Stairs”  a 
person  can  emerge  and  walk  for  some  distance  beneath  the 
cliff,  almost  to  the  foot  of  the  great  Canadian  Fall,  and,  by  a 
succession  of  wooden  foot-bridges  guarded  by  railings,  into  the 
“ Cave  of  the  Winds,”  as  the  space  between  the  overhanging 
precipice  and  the  sheet  of  water  forming  the  Central  Fall  is 
called.  In  this  cave  the  visitor,  clad  in  rubber  clothing,  and 
wearing  canvas  overshoes  to  prevent  slipping,  is  drenched 
with  the  spray  which  the  currents  of  air,  drawn  in  by  the 
motion  of  the  water,  and  meeting  in  the  centre,  are  constantly 
whirling  in  every  direction,  while  the  tremendous  roar  of  the 
vast  body  of  water,  beating  on  the  rocks  below,  makes  every 


CENTRAL  FALLS,  (Cave  of  the  Winds.) 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK 


23 1 

other  sound  inaudible,  and  nearly  deafens  the  tourist.  From  a 
visit  to  the  “ Cave  of  the  Winds”  a person  can  gain  an  idea 
of  the  immense  volume  of  'water  constantly  pouring  over  the 
Falls,  this  Central  Fall  being  but  a slender  rivulet  compared 
'with  the  lofty  American  Fall,  itself  small  in  comparison  'with 
the  great  Canadian  Fall.  Near  the  Biddle  Stairs  is  sho'wn  the 
spot  'where  Sam  Patch  is  said  to  have  leaped  from  a projecting 
staging,  do'wn  into  the  deep  'water  belo'w  the  Fall,  and  to  have 
come  out  in  safety.  Goat  Island  is  visited  by  thousands  every 
year,  the  circuit  of  the  island  being  made  by  carriages,  and  an 
opportunity  given  for  the  occupants  to  dismount  at  each  point 
of  interest. 

Prospect  Park  and  its  Attractions. 

Returning  to  the  American  shore  from  the  tour  of  the 
islands,  "we  proceed  do'wn  the  river  bank  a short  distance  to  a 
lofty  gate’way  inscribed  “Prospect  Park.”  Here  25  cents 
admits  a foot  passenger.  Of  this  Prospect  Park  much  non- 
sense has  been  'written  in  the  past  year  or  t'wo,  about  “fen- 
cing in  the  Falls,”  etc.,  and  much  denunciation  of  the  O'wners 
of  the  land  for  their  greed.  No  doubt  the  State  of  Ne'w  York, 
years  ago,  ought  to  have  reserved  the  lands  lying  along  the 
Falls,  as  a part  of  the  public  domain,  and  made  of  them  a free 
pleasure  park;  but  the  State  did  nothing  of  the  kind.  It  sold 
grants  of  land  to  the  settlers ; and  they  have  had  to  do  the 
best  they  could.  When  Niagara  first  became  a famous  'water- 
ing place,  there  'were  no  improvements.  Goat  Island  'was 
almost  inaccessible.  There  'were  no  means  of  visiting  the 
spots  'where  no'wthe  most  enjoyment  is  found.  By  degrees  the 
islands  have  been  opened  to  visitors,  the  ferry  across  the  river 
established,  the  suspension  bridges  constructed.  But  Prospect 
Point  — the  projection  of  land  directly  abreast  the  American 
Fall,  and  from  'which  one  could  toss  a chip  or  even  dip  his  hand 
into  the  very  cataract  — remained  unimproved.  It  'was  a rough, 
rocky,  scrubby  cliff,  covered  'with  loose  stones  and  gnarly  trees, 
'with  no  'wall  or  railing  even  at  the  brink,  to  prevent  the  un- 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


232 

wary  from  falling  over;  infested  by  peddlers,  Indians,  and 
vagabonds,  and  having  no  conveniences  for  the  visitors.  The 
land  could  not  be  made  productive  to  the  owners;  for  the  hosts 
of  visitors  would  constantly  overrun  it.  So  the  owners  asso- 
ciated themselves,  and  at  the  expense  of  several  thovisand 
dollars,  have  enclosed  the  Point,  built  a solid  and  safe  wall 
along  the  edge  of  the  precipice  and  on  the  side  towards  the 
Fall,  so  that  visitors,  even  children,  can  sit  with  perfect  safety 
directly  over  the  rushing  torrent,  and  gaze  into  its  foamy 
depths ; built  a safe  and  rapid  inclined  railway  (in  a tunnel 
through  the  solid  rock)  to  the  water’s  edge  below  the  fall, 
built  summer  houses,  cleared  and  beautified  the  grounds, 
supplied  them  with  seats,  etc. 

Across  the  River  to  the  Canadian  Pall. 

A small  fee  pays  for  the  descent  of  the  inclined  railway, 
and  the  ferry  passage  across  the  river  to  the  Canadian  shore. 
On  this  trip,  which  is  made  in  a barge,  one  has  a magnificent 
view  of  the  whole  of  the  falls  at  once,  looking  up  from  the 
river  below  them,  which  is  here  not  broad  but  very  deep,  so 
deep  in  fact  that  the  water  appears  a dark  green.  Reaching 
the  Canadian  shore,  one  can  ascend  a road  to  the  bank  above, 
or  can  scramble  (if  he  be  so  minded,  and  have  thick  boots) 
over  the  stones  along  the  water's  edge  to  the  foot  of  the  great 
Canadian  Fall,  and  ascend  the  stot  e stairs  just  below  Table 
Rock.  Then,  having  viewed  the  falls  from  the  Canadian 
side,  a ^hort  walk  down  the  river  brings  us  to  the  ‘‘  New  Sus- 
pension Bridge”  (for  carriag  s and  foot  passengers  ->^fiy) 
which  crosses  1800  feet  below  the  American  Fall  and  by  vhich 
we  can  return  to  this  side.  The  towers  of  this  bridge  on  the 
Canadian  side  are  120  feet  high,  and  on  the  American  side 
106  feet. 

Near  Table  Rock  stands  a small  museum,  from  the  roof  of 
which  a fine  general  overlook  of  the  falls  is  gained,  and  where 
a collection  of  curiosities,  insignificant  enough  beside  the 
great  curiosity  of  the  world,  the  falls,  is  shown.  Here  guides 


Tourists^  handbook. 


and  rubber  suits  may  be  procured  for  a trip  under  the  edge  of 
Horse-shoe  Fall.  Either  tower  of  the  Suspension  Bridge  may 
be  ascended ; that  on  the  American  side  by  stairs,  that  on  the 
Canadian  side  by  an  elevator,  and  from  either  a majestic  view 
of  the  Falls  and  the  deep  narrow  gorge  below  is  gained.  Near 
the  bridge,  on  the  American  side,  is  the  beautiful  Bridal  Veil 
Fall,  an  artificial  sheet  of  water,  pouring  over  the  perpendicu- 
lar clift',  at  the  lower  end  of  the  hydraulic  canal,  which  fur- 
nishes the  power  for  some  shops  and  for  the  hotels,  and 
returns  it  to  the  river  here. 

The  Great  Suspension  Bridge,  and  the  View  Thence. 

But  the  Suspension  Bridge,  known  the  world  over  as  one  of 
the  greatest  achievements  of  engineering  skill,  is  two  miles 
below  the  Falls.  Its  length  is  800  feet,  and  its  height  above 
the  water  268  feet.  The  towers  are  66  feet  high  ; and  each  of 
the  four  main  cables  supporting- the.  bridge  is  nine  inches  in 
diameter,  and  composed  of  800  wires.  There  is  a carriage 
and  foot  way  28  feet  below  the  railroad  track.  Its  cost 
was  $500,000.  Over  it  run,  or  rather  crawl  the  trains  of  the 
Great  Western  Railway,  for  Hamilton  and  the  far  West.  One 
mile  below  the  Suspension  Bridge  the  river  widens,  and  gives 
a sudden  turn,  so  that  the  waters  are  forced  along  in  an  im- 
mense seething,  heaving  whirlpool.  A mile  below  the  Whirl- 
pool is  tlie  Devil’s  Hole,  150  feet  deep,  and  two  acres  in  extent. 
The  carriage  road  runs  right  up  to  the  margin  of  the  abyss, 
so  that  without  leaving  a carriage  one  may  look  down  into  it. 
From  the  Suspension  Bridge  a splendid  view  of  the  entire 
Falls  is  gained.  It  is  like  a panorama  or  a bird’s-eye  view,  so 
complete,  yet  so  reduced  by  distance;  and  many  think  it  the 
finest  view  that  can  be  anywhere  gained  of  the  great  wonder, 
Niagara.  At  the  Suspension  Bridge,  the  waters  of  the  river 
are  compressed  into  a narrow  gorge,  with  high  perpendicular 
cliff’s  for  banks.  From  their  top  one  can  look  down  240  feet 
to  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  bottom  of  the  stream  is  pro- 
bably as  much  farther  down ; at  any  rate,  the  water  from  its 


234 


TOURISTS^  handbook. 


immense  depth,  looks  as  darkly  green  as  the  ocean  itself. 
Just  below,  the  river  nairows  to  400  feet,  one-tenth  its  width 
at  the  Falls,  and  here  the  water,  from  being  so  closely  com- 
pressed, rushes  through  the  gorge  in  the  most  terrible  rapids, 
which  toss  and  heave  white  masses  in  the  center  of  the  river 
to  the  height  of  30  or  40  feet.  A vertical  railway  leads  to  the 
water’s  edge  at  these  famous  Whirlpool  Rapids.  On  the 
American  side,  at  the  Suspension  Bridge,  is  Niagara  City, 
(mostly  on  paper  at  present)  nicely  laid  out  in  squares,  with 
a large  and  pleasant  hotel,  the  Monteagle.  On  the  Canadian 
side  is  the  village  of  Clifton. 

Niagara  Swindles,  So-called. 

Much  denunciation  has  been  wasted  on  Niagara  hotel-keep- 
ers, Niagara  hackmen,  and  Niagara  swindles  generally;  and 
it  is  mainly  based  on  ignorance  or  injustice.  The  hotel 
charges  are  no  higher  than  at  any  other  prominent  summer 
resort;  there  are  no  more  ‘‘extras;  ” the  fees  for  seeing  the 
wonders  are  — as  we  have  seen  — very  reasonable,  considering 
the  attractions ; and  the  charges  of  the  hack-drivers  are  quite 
moderate,  if  one  be  not  over-flush  with  his  money  at  the  out- 
set. The  hackmen  are  all  licensed  by  the  corporation  of  the 
village ; and  any  complaint  of  over-charge  or  incivility,  will 
secure  the  revocation  of  a license.  For  $2  (and  the  gate- fees) 
a good  carriage  can  be  had  to  take  one  around  the  islands  and 
through  Prospect  Park ; for  $5  two  persons  can  ride  all  the 
forenoon.  Of  course  there  are  petty  swindles  in  the  shops 
for  the  sale  of  “Table-rock  jewelry,”  Indian  bead-work, 
feather  fans,  etc. ; but  no  one  is  obliged  to  buy  them.  And  ex- 
cellent stereoscopic  views  of  the  Falls,  which  are  decidedy  the 
prettiest  and  most  useful  mementoes  to  bring  away,  can  be 
bought  as  cheaply  as  the  same  class  of  goods  in  New  York  or 
Boston.  Of  course  tfe  class  of  persons  who  go  to  Niagara 
merely  to  say  that  they  have  been  there,  and  have  seen  all  the 
sights,  can  also  generally  have  it  to  say  that  they  were  out- 
rageously swindled  while  there ; but  a sensible  person,  who 


TOltRlSTS'  HANDBOOK. 


23S 


goes  to  see  the  greiit  wonders,  fully  and  judiciously,  can  get 
a dollar’s  worth  for  every  dollar  he  expends,  as  well  as  in  New 
York  or  Boston.  The  neighborhood  is  full  of  historic  associa- 
tions connected  with  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain.  Fort 
Erie,  Chippewa,  Lundy’s  Lane,  and  many  other  scenes  of 
hard-fought  battles,  are  near.  Lewiston  and  Queenstown  are 
on  opposite  sides  of  the  river,  seven  miles  below  the  Falls,  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  Lake  Ontario. 

Daniel  Webster’s  Famous  Description. 

Daniel  Webster’s  description  of  Niagara  Falls,  written  in 
1825,  and  found  in  vol.  ii.,  p.  385,  of  his  correspondence,  has 
been  often  quoted ; and  some  passages  from  it  are  worthy  of 
reproduction  here,  though  many  things  which  he  describes 
are  changed  since  1825  : — 

“ Lake  Erie  is  330  feet  higher  than  Lake  Ontario;  but,  in 
decending  the  river  from  Lake  Erie,  one  perceives  no  very 
great  descent,  although  the  current  is  all  the  way  rapid,  till 
we  get  nearly  down  to  the  Falls.  A little  below  the  village  of 
Black  Rock,  perhaps  about  five  miies  from  Lake  Erie,  the 
river  divides  into  two  channels,  forming  a large  island  in  the 
centre  called  Grand  Isle,  about  12  miles  long,  and  in  some 
places  six  or  seven  broad.  This  island  terminates,  and  the 
two  channels  unite  again,  just  at  the  head  of  what  is  called 
the  Rapids,  a mile  or  a mile  and  a half  above  the  great  Falls. 
These  rapids  are  a succession  of  cascades  spreading  over  the 
whole  river,  of  different  and.  various  heights  and  appear- 
ances, rendering  the  whole  breadth  of  the  stream,  (which  is 
here  not  less  than  two  miles)  white  with  foam.  They  would 
form  a fine  object,  if  there  were  nothing  near  to  call  the  at- 
tention another  way.  Midway  of  these  rapids  is  Goat  Island, 
which  divides  the  river  into  two  unequal  parts,  about  one- 
third  in  breadth  being  on  the  eastern  or  American  side,  and 
two-thirds  on  the  British.  The  island  runs  down  to  the  very 
brink  of  the  Falls,  and  there  terminates  in  a perpendicular 
precipice  (a  wall  of  rock),  which  is  part  of  the  same  great 
declivity  over  which  the  river  pours.  This  island  thus  divides 
the  river,  so  that  it  falls  over  the  precipice  in  two  sheets.  The 
length  of  the  fall  on  the  American  side  is  estimated  at  380 
yards ; the  distance  across  the  end  of  Goat  Island  330  j^ards ; 
the  length  of  the  fall  on  the  British  side  700  yards.  The  fall 


236 


TOURISTS^  handbook. 


is  thought  to  be  the  highest  on  the  American  side,  being  there 
165  feet,  and  on  the  British  side  150.  Vastly » he  greatest  portion 
of  water  (three- fourths,  or  even  more)  runs  on  the  British  side. 
As  you  descend  the  river  from  Lake  Erie  and  approach  the 
Falls,  the  river  seems  to  fall  away  from  your  feet,  and  to  pitch 
right  down  into  the  earth.  Many  miles  before  you  reach  the 
Falls  you  see  the  mist  or  spray  rising  like  a cloud;  but  this 
does  not  seem  to  be  rising  from  the  earth  into  the  air  as  much 
as  from  the  centre  of  the  earth  to  the  surface : it  appears  to 
be  coming  from  the  ground.  From  the  bottom  of  the  Falls 
to  Lewiston,  seven  miles,  the  whole  channel  of  the  river  is 
one  great  trough,  100  or  150  feet  deep,  with  sides  of  perpen- 
dicular rock.  This  has  given  currency  to  the  opinion  that  the 
Falls  were  once  seven  miles  lower  down  than  they  now  are, 
and  that  the  force  of  the  water  in  time  has  worn  away  the 
rocks,  and  forced  the  Falls  back  to  their  present  position.  As 
we  stood  to-day  at  noon,  on  the  projecting  point  at  Table 
Rock,  we  looked  over  into  the  abyss ; and,  far  beneath  our 
feet,  arched  over  this  tremendous  aggregate  of  water,  we  saw 
a perfect  and  radiant  rainbow.  This  ornament  of  heaven 
does  not  seem  out  of  place  in  being  half  way  up  the  sheet 
of  the  glorious  cataract;  it  looked  as  if  the  skies  them- 
selves paid  homage  to  this  stupendous  work  of  nature. 
From  Table  Rock,  or  a •little  further  down,  a winding  stair- 
case is  constructed,  down  which  we  descend  from  the  level 
of  Table  Rock,  95  feet.  This  brings  us  to  the  bottom  of 
the  perpendicular  rock ; and  from  this  place  we  descend 
50  or  60  feet  further,  over  large  fragments  of  rock,  and  other 
substance,  down  to  the  edge  of  the  river.  If  at  the  bottom 
of  the  staircase  (instead  of  descending  further)  we  choose  to 
turn  to  the  right  and  go  up  the  stream,  keeping  close  at  the 
foot  of  Table  Rock  or  the  perpendicular  bank,  we  soon  get  to 
the  foot  of  the  fall,  and  approach  the  end  of  the  falling  mass. 
It  is  easy  to  get  in  behind  for  a liitle  distance  between  the  fal- 
ling water  and  the  rock  over  which  it  is  precipitated.  This 
cannot  be  done,  however,  without  being  entirely  wet.  From 
within  this  cavern  there  issues  a wind,  occasionally  very  strong, 
and  bringing  with  it  such  showers  and  torrents  of  spiay,  that 
we  are  soon  as  wet  as  if  we  had  come  over  the  Falls  with  the 
water.  As  near  to  the  fall  in  this  place  as  you  can  well  come, 
is  perhaps  the  spot  on  which  the  mind  is  most  deeply  impressed 
with  the  whole  scene.  Over  our  heads  hangs  a fearful  rock, 
projecting  like  an  unsupported  piazza.  Before  us  is  a hurly- 
burly  of  waters  too  deep  to  be  fathomed,  too  irregular  to  be 
described,  shrouded  in  too  much  mist  to  be  clearly  seen  ; water. 


TOURISTS*  1/ A HD  BO  OK. 


237 


vapor,  foam,  and  atmosphere  are  all  mixed  up  together  is  sub- 
lime confusion.  By  our  side,  down  comes  this  world  of  green 
and  white  waters,  and  pours  into  the  invisible  abyss.  A 
steady,  unvarying,  low-toned  roar  thunders  incessantly  upon 
our  ears.  As  we  look  up  we  think  some  sudden  disaster  has 
opened  the  seas,  and  that  all  their  floods  are  coming  down 
upon  us  at  once  ; but  we  soon  recollect  that  what  we  see  is  not 
a sudden  or  violent  exhibition,  but  the  permanent  and  uniform 
character  of  the  object  which  we  contemplate.  There  the 
grand  spectacle  has  stood  for  centuries  — from  the  creation,  as 
far  as  we  know,  without  change  From  the  beginning  it  has 
shaken  as  it  now  does  the  earth  and  the  air;  and  its  unvarying 
thunder  existed  before  there  were  human  ears  to  hear  it.  Re- 
flections like  these  on  the  duration  and  permanency  of  this 
grand  object  naturally  arise,  and  contribute  much  to  the  deep 
feeling  which  the  whole  scene  produces.  We  cannot  help  be- 
ing struck  with  a sense  of  the  insignificance  of  man  and  all 
his  works,  compared  with  what  is  before  us.” 

Excursions  from  Niagara. 

From  Niagara,  trips  may  be  made  by  carriage  to  the  battle- 
fields of  Lundy’s  Lane  and  Chippewa,  and  to  the  Burning 
Spring,  (which  is  kept  in  constant  ebullition  by  a stream  of 
sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas,  which  ignites  and  burns^  with  an 
intermittent  blue  flame  and  the  odor  of  aged  eggs},  all  on  the 
Canada  side.  By  rail,  one  may  proceed  to  the  Suspension 
Bridge,  two  miles,  or  to  Lewiston  seven  miles  down  the 
river  on  the  American  shore,  and  back,  a rapid  and  inexpen- 
sive excursion. 

Lake  Ontario  and  the  Upper  St.  Lawrence. 

A most  delightful  trip  is  that  from  Niagara  down  Lake  On- 
tario and  the  Upper  St.  Lawrence,  to  Montreal.  Two  routes 
may  be  chosen  — one  by  rail  to  Kingston  or  Prescott,  thence 
by  steamer  down  the  St.  Lawrence ; the  other  by  boat  across 
Lake  Ontario,  and  down  the  river.  Those  who  desire,  or 
are  compelled  by  urgency  of  time,  can  make  an  all-rail  trip 
from  Toronto  to  Montreal;  but  they  will  lose  the  charming 
scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Thousand  Islands.  In 
either  case  we  visit  Toronto ; and  to  get  there  take  a seven- 


238 


TOC/R/STS^  HANDBOOK, 


mile  railroad  ride  down  the  Niagara  River,  overlooking  the 
stream  much  of  the  way,  to  Lewiston,  which  is  situated  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  lower  Niagara,  and  is  a pleasant, 
well  built  village.  Queenston  is  a village  of  about  200  in- 
habitants on  the  Canadian  side,  nearly  opposite  Lewiston, 
and  was  the  scene  of  a battle  in  the  war  of  1812.  Near  this 
point  the  river  becomes  more  tranquil,  the  shores  less  broken 
and  wild,  and  the  scenery  changes  from  rugged  grandeur  to 
beauty.  On  Queenston  Heights,  the  scene  of  the  battle, 
stands  Brock’s  monument,  erected  in  honor  of  the  British 
general  who  so  gallantly  defended  the  place. 

Taking  the  little  steamer  ‘‘City  of  Toronto”  at  Lewiston, 
we  are  soon  steaming  down  the  Niagara  river,  on  both  banks 
of  which  are  points  of  historic  interest,  dating  from  the  days 
of  the  ‘‘  Old  French  War,”  as  well  as  the  last  war  between  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain.  Fort  Niagara  stands  at  the 
river’s  mouth,  on  the  American  side.  There  are  many  inter- 
esting associations  connected  with  the  spot,  as,  during  the 
earliest  part  of  the  past  century,  it  was  a scene  of  many  severe 
conflicts  between  the  whites  and  the  Indians,  and  subse 
quently  between  the  English  and  the  French.  The  village 
adjacent  to  the  Fort  is  called  Youngstown,  in  honor  of  its 
founder,  the  late  John  Young,  Esq.  Niagara  is  one  of  the 
oldest  towns  in  Upper  Canada,  and  was  formerly  the  capital 
of  the  province. 

Across  the  Lake  to  Toronto. 

Leaving  Niagara,  we  steam  across  the  western  end  of  Lake 
Ontario,  and  soon  arrive  at  Toronto,  the  capital  city  of  Upper 
Canada,  which  is  situated  on  an  arm  of  Lake  Ontario,  36 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  Niagara  river.  Toronto  Bay  is  a 
beautiful  inlet  separated  from  the  main  body  of  Lake  Ontario, 
except  at  its  entrance,  by  a long,  narrow,  sandy  beach.  The 
southwestern  extremity  is  called  Gibraltar  Point.  The  popu- 
lation in  1817  was  1,200,  but  at  the  present  time  it  amounts  to 
about  60,000.  Among  the  principal  buildings  of  Toronto  are 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


239 


Trinity  College,  University  of  Toronto,  and  St.  James  Cathe- 
dral. One  of  the  ecclesiastical  edifices  deserves  especial 
notice,  — the  Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  a handsome 
structure,  erected  by  a donation  of  £5,000  from  some  liberal 
person  from  England,  on  condition  that  the  whole  of  the 
seats  should  be  free.  The  Elgin  Association,  for  improving 
the  moral  and  religious  condition  of  the  colored  popula- 
tion, is  among  the  most  useful  institutions  of  the  place. 
That  stupendous  undertaking,  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  of 
Canada,  passes  through  Toronto,  and  promises  a splendid 
future  for  Toronto  and  its  sister  cities. 

. Down  Lake  Ontario  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

From  Toronto,  where  we  transfer  ourselves  to  a much 
larger  and  finer  steamer,  — the  “ Corinthian,”  “ Corsican,” 
•‘Spartan,”  “Algerian,”  or  “Bohemian,”  of  the  Canadian 
Transportation  Company,  — we  proceed  eastward,  straight 
down  Lake  Ontario,  keeping  within  a few  miles  of  the  north- 
ern shore.  On  this  side.  Port  Hope,  a pretty  town  containing 
about  2200  inhabitants,  is  located  in  the  valley  of  a small 
stream  emptying  into  the  lake,  with  a fine  range  of  hills  ris- 
ing to  the  westward.  Coburg  lies  seven  miles  below  Port 
Hope.  It  contains  4000  inhabitants,  seven  churches,  two 
banks,  and  the  largest  cloth-factory  in  the  province.  It  is 
also  the  seat  of  Victoria  College  and  a theological  insti- 
tute. Kingston,  the  original  capital  of  Canada,  is  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Cataraqui  River,  and  just  at  the  foot  of  Lake 
Ontario,  whence  runs  the  St.  Lawrence.  As  early  as  1672, 
the  French  under  De  Courcelles  began  a settlement  here,  and 
built  a fort,  which  was  named  Fort  Frontenac,  in  honor  of  the 
French  count  of  that  name.  In  1762  the  English  took  pos- 
session, and  called  the  place  Kingston.  It  is  one  of  the  im- 
portant military  posts  of  Canada,  and  has  about  11,000 
inhabitants.  The  harbor  is  very  fine.  The  land  projects  out 
on  the  east  side  of  the  bay,  forming  Point  Frederic  or  Navy 
Point,  east  of  which  is  a deep  basin  called  Haldimand  Cove, 


240 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


where  are  found  the  royal  dock  yard,  and  much  of  the  ship- 
ping of  the  navy.  The  city  is  built  chiefly  of  blue  limestone  ; 
and  wells  of  mineral  water  have  been  found  by  boring  to  dif- 
ferent depths,  from  75  to  1145  feet.  Among  the  noticeable 
buildings  here,  are  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  the  build- 
ings of  Queen’s  College  (Presbyterian),  Regispole’s  College 
(Roman  Catholic'),  and  the  Provincial  Penitentiary.  The 
extremity  of  the  Rideau  Canal,  which  connects  Lake  On- 
tario with  the  Rideau  River  — one  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
Ottawa  — is  near  Kingston,  and  adds  much  to  the  business  of 
the  place.  On  the  American  side  of  the  lake  are  Charlotte, 
Oswego  and  Sackett’s  Harbor. 

The  Thousand  Islands. 

About  six  miles  below  Kingston  the  river  widens,  and  em- 
bosoms the  loveliest  group  of  islands  imaginable,  — the  far- 
famed  Thousand  Islands.  They  are  in  an  expansion  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Ontario ; and  the  broad 
river  in  which  they  lie  partakes  so  much  of  the  character  of 
a lake,  that  it  is  often  called  “The  Lake  of  the  Thousand 
Isles.”  For  40  miles  down  the  river  this  beautiful  scene  con- 
tinues, the  boat  which  leaves  Kingston  at  early  dawn  gliding 
among  no  less  than  1800  of  these  “emerald  gems  in  the  ring 
of  the  wave  ” of  all  sizes,  from  the  islet  a few  yards  square  to 
miles  in  length,  and  covered  with  a heavy  growth  of  trees. 
This  group  is  constantly  attracting  the  attention  of  sportsmen 
and  pleasure- seekers.  Fish  so  large  as  to  make  angling  tire- 
some, and  wild-fowl  of  all  kinds,  are  everywhere  abundant. 
President  Grant  has  been  a guest  here  of  Mr.  George  M.  Pull- 
man, President  of  the  Pullman  Palace  Car  Company,  who 
owns  a villa  on  one  of  these  islands.  These  islands,  too,  have 
been  the  scene  of  most  exciting  romance.  From  their  great 
number,  and  the  labyrinth-like  channels  among  them,  they 
afforded  an  admirable  retreat  for  the  insurgents  in  the  last 
Canadian  insurrection,  and  for  the  American  sympthizers  with 
them.  Among  these  was  one  man,  who  from  his  daring  and 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK, 


241 


ability,  became  an  object  of  anxious  pursuit  to  the  Canadian 
authorities;  and  he  found  a safe  asylum  in  these  watery  in- 
tricacies, through  the  devotedness  and  courage  of  his  daughter, 
whose  inimitable  management  of  her  canoe  was  such  that, 
through  hosts  of  pursurers,  she  baffled  their  efforts  at  capture, 
while  she  supplied  him  with  provisions  in  these  solitary  re- 
treats, rowing  him  from  one  place  of  concealment  to  another, 
under  shadow  of  the  night.  But,  in  truth,  all  the  islands, 
which  are  so  numerously  studded  through  the  whole  chain  of 
those  magnificent  lakes,  abound  with  materials  for  romance 
and  poetry.  Opposite  the  Thousand  Isles,  on  the  American 
side  of  the  river,  is  Clayton,  well  known  as.  a lumber  station. 
Here  the  rafts  are  made  up  for  their  long  voyage  down  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  look  like  floating  villages  with  the  huts  that 
are  built  on  them  for  the  protection  of  the  raftsmen.  Alexan- 
dria Bay  is  the  next  port  after  leaving  Clayton.  It  is  built  upon 
a massive  pile  of  rocks  ; and  its  situation  is  romantic  and  highly 
picturesque.  It  is  a place  of  resort  for  sportmen,  and  during  the 
past  two  or  three  seasons  has  become  a popular  and  fashion- 
able watering-place.  Here  the  Thousand  Island  House,  a fine 
hotel,  built  in  1873,  furnishes  palatial  accommodations  for  600 
guests.  The  verandah  connecting  with  the  long  hall  of  the 
first  floor,  gives  a promenade  624  feet  in  length,  the  verandah 
portion  being  374  feet  and  the  hall  250  feet.  The  whole  house 
is  supplied  with  water,  and  lighted  with  gas.  The  view  over 
the  islands  from  the  lofty  tower  is  exceedingly  fine.  Alexan- 
dria Bay  is  30  miles  from  Cape  Vincent,  and  36  miles  from 
Ogdensburgh,  both  northern  termini  of  the  Rome,  Water- 
town  and  Ogdensburgh  Railroad.  From  both  places,  steamers 
ply  to  the  bay.  Some  two  or  three  miles  below  the  village, 
is  a position  from  whence  100  islands  can  be  seen  at  one  view. 
This  place  also  is  celebrated  for  its  fishing  and  shooting. 
The  beauty  of  the  islands  in  this  vicinity,  for  several  miles 
up  and  down  the  river,  can  hardly  be  imagined  without  a 
personal  visit.  Here  many  of  those  splendid  fish,  the  mus- 
calonge,  are  killed  : they  are  of  large  size,  many  of  them 


II 


242 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


weighing  40  or  even  70  pounds  each.  They  are  taken  with 
trolling  lines;  and  it  requires  a skilful  angler  to  land  one 
safely.  Sportsmen  consider  the  taking  of  these  fish  equal  to 
salmon-fishing.  During  the  past  few  seasons  many  of  these 
beautiful  islands  have  been  bought  by  wealthy  people  for 
Summer  residences.  Hart’s  island,  directly  opposite,  and  very 
near  to  the  village,  is  said  to  be  the  spot  where  Thomas 
Moore,  the  Irish  poet,  wrote  early  in  the  century  his  famous 

' Canadian  Boat  Song, 

Faintly,  as  tolls  the  evening  chime. 

Our  voices  keep  tune,  and  our  oars  keep  time ; 

Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim. 

We  ’ll  sing  at  St.  Ann’s  our  parting  hymn. 

Row,  brothers,  row,  the  stream  runs  fast. 

The  rapids  are  near  and  the  daylight’s  past. 

Why  should  we  yet  our  sails  unfurl? 

There  is  not  a breath  the  blue  wave  to  curl ! 

But,  when  the  wind  blows  off  the  shore, 

Oh  ! sweetly  we  ’ll  rest  on  our  weary  oar. 

^ Blow,  breezes,  blow,  the  stream  runs  fast, 

The  rapids  are  near  and  the  daylight’s  past! 

Utawa’s  tide!  this  trembling  moon. 

Shall  see  us  float  over  thy  surges  soon  : 

Saint  of  this  green  isle  ! hear  our  prayers. 

Oh!  grant  us  cool  heavens  and  favoring  airs. 

Blow,  breezes,  blow,  the  stream  runs  fast. 

The  rapids  are  near  and  the  daylight’s  past! 

On  the  Canada  side,  fifteen  miles  below  Alexandria,  is 
Brockville,  one  of  the  most  attractive  towns  on  the  river, 
named  in  honor  of  Gen.  Brock,  who  fell  at  Queenston  in 
1812.  Here  is  the  Junction  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad 
with  Brockville  and  Ottawa  Railroad,  which  extends  north- 
ward to  the  Ottawa  River. 

Ogdensburg  and  its  Railway  Facilities. 

On  the  American  side  of  the  river  is  Ogdensburg,  a town  of 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


243 


about  9,000  population.  This  is  the  western  terminus  of  the 
Ogdensburg  and  Lake  Champlain  Railroad  (now  under  con- 
trol of  the  Central  Vermont),  which  connects  Ogdensburg 
with  Rouse’s  Point  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  so  opens  the 
route  to  Boston  and  New  York.  The  Central  Vermont  Com- 
pany has  here  a freight  and  passenger  station  305  feet  by  84, 
and  numerous  other  buildings  for  business  on  a grand  scale. 
The  extensive  elevators  of  the  Central  Vermont  line  are 
located  here,  at  which  vessels  laden  with  grain  on  the  lakes 
discharge  their  cargoes.  Opposite  Ogdensburg  is  Prescott; 
and  a mile  belpw  is  Windmill  Point,  where  the  ruins  of  an 
old  windmill  are  seen,  in  which  Von  Schultz  took  refuge  with 
the  Polish  patriots  in  1837.  Five  miles  below,  at  the  first 
rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  Chimney  Island,  where  the 
remains  of  an  old  French  fortification  are  seen. 

Excursion  to  Ottawa. 

At  Prescott,  passengers  can  take  the  cars  for  Ottawa,  and 
then  descend  the  Ottawa  river  to  Montreal.  The  distance 
from  Prescott  to  Ottawa,  over  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa 
Railroad  is  51  miles,  Ottawa  is  the  capital  of  the  new  do- 
minion of  Canada,  and  is  situated  on  the  Ottawa  river,  a 
stream  800  miles  long,  which  enters  the  St.  Lawrence  on 
both  sides  of  the  island  of  Montreal,  130  miles  below  the  city 
of  Ottawa.  The  city  is  divided  into  three  parts  — Lower, 
Central  and  Upper  Town.  The  Government  Buildings, 
when  completed,  will  be  among  the  finest  on  the  American 
continent.  These  buildings,  with  the  government  offices  and 
Queen’s  Printing-house,  occupy  three  sides  of  a square  on  the 
summit  of  Barrack  Hill,  which  rises  almost  perpendicularly 
from  the  river  to  the  height  of  350  feet.  Rideau  Falls,  in  the 
eastern  part  of  the  city,  two  in  number,  are  very  attractive, 
but  are  far  surpassed  by  the  Chaudiere  Falls  in  the  western 
portion  of  the  city.  They  are  40  feet  high  and  over  200  feet 
wide.  A suspension  bridge  just  below  the  falls  crosses  the 
river,  and  gives  a splendid  view  of  the  falls,  the  caldron  below 


244 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


them,  and  the  rapids.  The  lumber  shoots  which  are  built 
here  for  running  down  the  lumber,  and  save  it  from  breaking 
to  pieces  in  going  over  the  falls,  are  objects  of  exciting  in- 
terest. The  passage  may  be  made  from  Ot'awa  to  Montreal 
by  steamer  down  the  Ottawa  river.  Picturesque  and  thickly 
wooded  banks  rise  on  each  side  much  of  the  way.  Two  miles 
below  Ottawa  is  the  mouth  of  the  Gatineau,  a stream  more 
than  400  miles  long,  which  drains  a vast  unexplored  region. 

The  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

But  a most  exciting  as  well  as  one  of  the  mo^t  delightful 
portions  of  our  trip,  is  at  hand,  — the  passage  of  the  rapids  of 
the  St.  Lawrence.  At  Chimney  Island,  previously  mentioned, 
the  first  of  these  rapids,  and  one  of  the  smallest  and  mildest, 
— the  Galop  Rapid  — is  reached.  Next  comes  the  Long  Sault, 
a continuous  rapid  of  nine  miles,  divided  in  the  centre  by  an 
island.  The  usual  passage  for  steamers  is  on  the  south  side. 
The  passage  is  very  narrow;  and  such  is  the  velocity  of 
the  current,  that  a raft  it  is  said,  will  drift  the  nine  miles  in 
forty  minutes.  This  is  the  most  exciting  part  of  the  whole 
passage  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  rapids  of  the  “ Long  Sault.” 
rush  along  at  the  rate  of  something  like  20  miles  an  hour. 
When  the  vessel  enters  within  their  influence,  the  steam  is 
shut  off,  and  she  is  carried  onwards  by  the  force  of  the  stream 
alone.  The  surging  waters  present  all  the  angry  appearance 
of  the  ocean  in  a storm;  the  noble  boat  strains  and  labors; 
but,  unlike  the  ordinary  pitching  and  tossing  at  sea,  this  going 
down  hill  by  water  produces  a highly  novel  sensation,  and  is, 
in  fact,  a service  of  some  danger,  the  imminence  of  which  is 
enhanced  to  the  imagination  by  the  tremendous  roar  of  the 
headlong  boiling  current.  Great  nerve  and  force  and  pre- 
cision are  here  required  in  piloting,  so  as  the  keep  the  vessel’s 
head  straight  with  the  course  of  the  rapid  ; for  if  she  diverges 
in  the  least,  presenting  her  side  to  the  current,  or  “ broached 
to,”  as  the  nautical  phrase  is,  she  would  be  instantly  run 
aground.  Hence  the  necessity  of  enormous  power  over  her 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK-. 


^45 


inidder;  and  for  this  purpose  the  mode  of  steering  affords 
great  facility;  for  the  wheel  that  governs  the  rudder  is  placed 
ahead,  and  by  means  of  chain  and  pulley  sways  it.  But,  in 
descending  the  rapids,  a tiller  is  placed  astern  to  the  rudder 
itself,  so  that  the  tiller  can  be  manned  as  well  as  the  wheel. 
Some  idea  may  be  entertained  of  the  peril  of  descending  a 
rapid,  when  it  requires  four  men  at  the  wheel  and  two  at  the 
tiller,  to  insure  safe  steering.  Here  is  the  region  of  the  dar- 
ing raftsmen,  at  whose  hands  are  demanded  infinite  courage 
and  skill.  There  is,  however,  but  little  danger  to  life,  as  it  fre- 
quently happens  that  a steamer  strikes  and  sinks ; but  a few 
minutes  puts  her  safely  in  shoal  water.  The  Canadian 
Navigation  Company  has  never  lost  any  lives  by  accidents  of 
this  kind  in  descending  the  rapids.  Of  course  it  is  impossible 
for  steamers  to  ascend  these  rapids ; so  canals  are  constructed 
around  them,  with  locks,  by  which  the  boats  are  enabled  to 
make  the  return  passage.  The  splendid  boats  of  the  Canadian 
Navigation  Company  leave  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario  in  the 
morning,  and  reach  Montreal  at  night.  The  Government  is 
about  to  deepen  the  channel  through  all  the  rapids  to  lo  feet. 
Cornwall,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  rapids,  is  near  the  boundary 
line  between  the  United  States  and  Canada.  St.  Regis  is  an 
old  Indian  village,  and  lies  a little  below  Cornwall,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  It  contains  a Catholic  Church, 
which  was  built  about  the  year  1700.  While  the  building 
was  in  progress,  the  Indians  were  told  by  their  priest  that  a bell 
was  indispensable  in  their  house  of  worship,  and  they  were 
ordered  to  collect  furs  sufficient  to  purchase  one.  The  furs 
were  collected,  the  money  was  sent  to  France,  and  the  bell 
was  bought  and  shipped  for  Canada.  But  the  vessel  which 
contained  it  was  captured  by  an  English  cruiser,  and  taken 
into  Salem,  Mass.  The  bell  was  afterwards  purchased  for  the 
church  at  Deerfield.  The  priest  of  St.  Regis  having  heard  of 
its  destination,  excited  the  Indians  to  a general  crusade,  for 
its  lecovery.  They  joined  the  expedition  fitted  out  by  the 
governor,  against  the  New  England  Colonists,  and  proceeded 


246 


TOURISTS^  BAKBBOOK. 


through  the  then  long,  trackless  wilderness,  to  Deerfield, 
which  they  attacked  in  the  night.  The  inhabitants  un- 
suspicious of  danger,  were  aroused  from  sleep  only  to  meet 
the  tomahawk  and  scalping-knife  of  the  savage.  Forty- 
seven  were  killed,  and  112  taken  captive;  among  whom  were 
Mr.  Williams,  the  pastor,  and  his  family.  Mrs.  Williamsbeing 
feeble  at  the  time  and  not  able  to  travel  with  her  husband  and 
family,  was  killed  by  the  Indians.  Mr.  Williams  and  part  of 
his  surviving  family  afterwards  returned  to  Deerfield,  but  the 
others  remained  with  the  Indians,  and  became  connected  with 
the  tribe.  The  Indians  having  recovered  the  bell,  carried  it 
slung  to  a pole,  through  the  forest;  and  it  now  hangs  in  the 
church  steeple  at  St.  Regis. 

Lake  St.  Francis 

is  the  name  given  to  the  St.  Lawrence  for  a distance  of  40 
miles,  between  Cornwall  and  Coteau  du  Lac,  where  it  widens 
considerably,  and  is  interspersed  with  a large  number  of 
islands.  At  Coteau  du  Lac  the  river  grows  narrower  again; 
and  the  Coteau  Rapids  (two  miles  long),  the  Cedars  (three 
miles),  the  Split  Rock,  and  Cascade  Rapids  are  passed,  the 
river  descending  824  feet  in  ii  miles.  There  is  a canal  ii 
miles  long  around  these  rapids,  at  the  lower  end  of  which  is 
the  village  of  Beauharnois.  In  the  expedition  of  Gen  Am- 
herst, a detachment  of  300  men,  that  were  sent  to  attack  Mon- 
treal, were  lost  in  the  rapids  near  this  place.  The  passage 
through  these  rapids  is  very  exciting.  There  is  a peculiar 
motion  of  the  vessel,  which  in  descending  seems  like  settling 
down,  as  she  glides  from  one  ledge  to  another.  In  passing 
the  rapids  of  the  Split  Rock,  a person  unacquainted  with  the 
navigation  of  these  rapids  will  almost  involuntarily  hold  his 
breath  until  this  ledge  of  rocks,  which  is  distinctly  seen  from 
the  deck  of  the  steamer,  is  passed.  Near  Beauharnois,  on 
the  north  bank,  a branch  of  the  Ottawa  enters  into  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  river  again  widens  into  a lake  called  St. 
Louis.  From  this  place  a view  is  had  of  Montreal  Mountain, 


TOURISTS^  HAND  nook. 


247 


iiearly  thirty  miles  distant.  In  this  lake  is  Nun’s  Island, 
which  is  beautifully  cultivated,  and  belongs  to  the  Grey  Nun- 
nery at  Montreal.  There  are  many  islands  in  the  vicinity  of 
Montreal  belonging  to  the  different  nunneries,  and  from  which 
they  derive  large  revenues.  At  Lachine,  nine  miles  above 
Montreal,  the  celebrated  Lachine  Rapids,  short,  but  the  rough- 
est and  most  dangerous  on  the  river,  begin.  The  descent  is 
444  feet  in  eight  miles.  Here  the  passengers  crowd  forward, 
and  peer  anxiously  ahead  and  on  every  side,  for  the  first 
glimpse  of  the  long-expected,  half-feared  rapids.  Just  at  the 
head  of  these  rapids,  a little  Indian  village,  Caughnawaga,  is 
seen  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  Here  steam  is  shut  off, 
and  the  boat  comes  nearly  to  a stand-still.  A birch  canoe 
puts  out  from  the  shore,  with  two  men  in  it.  It  comes  along- 
side; and  a brawny,  dark-skinned  old  man,  in  a picturesque 
garb,  comes  aboard.  It  is  old  Baptiste,  the  Indian  pilot,  who 
has  for  over  40  years  piloted  steamers  through  these  rapids. 
He  takes  his  place  at  the  wheel,  rings  the  bell  to  go  ahead, 
and,  aided  by  four  or  five  powerful  men,  he  steers  the  boat 
through  the  foaming,  boiling  surges,  and  past  the  ugly  ledges 
that  threaten  to  wreck  her.  The  rapids  safely  passed,  we 
shoot  under  the  Victoria  Bridge,  and  are  soon  moored  to  the 
magnificent  pier  at  Montreal,  'fhese  extensive  piers,  quays 
and  walls  of  gray  limestone,  which  border  the  entire  river 
front,  are  among  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  we  gain  a fair 
view  of  them  as  we  land  from  the  steamer.  Passengers  for 
Quebec  and  other  points  down  the  river  are  transferred  direct 
to  one  of  the  fine  steamers  about  starting,  and  then  our 
steamer  is  warped  into  the  locks  at  the  foot  of  the  Lachine 
canal,  raised  to  the  upper  level,  admitted  to  the  basin,  and  we 
land  on  the  broad  quay,  where  a host  of  cabs,  omnibuses  and 
other  vehicles  are  in  waiting  to  convey  us  to  our  hotel. 


CHAPTER'  XL 

Montreal  and  Its  Environs. 

ONTREAL,  the  Queen  city  of  Canada,  is 
built  upon  the  island  of  the  same  name, 
formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  two 
mouths  of  the  Ottawa  river  with  the  St. 
Lawrence,  which  is  here  a mile  and  a 
half  wide.  The  island  of  Montreal  con- 
tains 197  square  miles,  and  from  its  ferti- 
lity and  beauty  is  called  “the  garden  of 
Canada.”  The  city  takes  its  name  from 
the  mountain  which  towers  behind  it, 
and  which  Jacques  Cartier,  in  1535, 
named  Mount  Royal.  At  that  time  the  site  of  the  city  was 
occupied  by  a walled  Indian  Village  called  Hochelaga.  In 
1603,  Champlain  brought  hither  a small  colony  of  Frenchmen 
who  settled  here.  In  1642,  M.  de  Maissonneuve  and  his  asso- 
ciates having  bought  the  island,  and  dedicated  it  to  the  Holy 
Family,  landed  here  and  named  the  city,  “Ville  Marie  de 
Montreal.”  It  has  now  a population  of  about  150.000,  is  one 
of  the  principal  commercial  cities  of  the  Dominion,  and  by 
far  the  most  attractive  on  the  scores  of  natural  beauty  and 
elegance  of  its  buildings.  The  streets  are  straight,  intersect 
generally  at  right  angles,  and  present  all  the  characteristics 
of  streets  in  the  great  American  cities.  Along  McGill,  Great 


tOURISrS'  HANDBOdK, 


249 


St.  James,  and  Notre  Dame  streets,  the  principal  retail  busi- 
ness thoroughfares,  are  many  fine  stores  which  make  attrac- 
tive displays  of  goods,  while  on  Dorchester,  St.  Catherine 
and  Sherbrooke  streets,  (the  latter  the  Beacon  street  or  Fifth 
avenue  of  Montreal),  are  numbers  of  princely  residences. 
No  city  affords  more  comfortable,  handy  and  cheap  facilities 
for  seeing  the  sights  than  Montreal.  Hundreds  of  light,  com- 
modious and  attractive  one-horse  hacks,  which  convey  four 
persons  with  ease  and  speed,  stand  on  the  streets  waiting  for 
fares,  and  the  prices  charged  by  the  hour  or  the  trip  are  very 
reasonable.  If  a driver,  who  can  talk  English  and  who  is  dis- 
posed to  point  out  places  of  interest,  be  secured,  which  can 
easily  be  done,  a drive  about  the  city,  for  half  a day,  will  be 
found  most  delightful  as  well  as  instructive.  But  before 
minutely  considering  the  objects  of  interest,  we  shall  desire 
to  find  out  a good  hotel  for  our  stopping  place,  and  we  cannot 
do  better  than  to  take  the  omnibus  of  the  Ottawa  Hotel,  or  to 
call  a cab  and  tell  the  driver  to  land  us  there.  This  house 
having  been  enlarged  and  improved,  will  now  accommodate 
over  350  guests.  The  Ottawa  Hotel  covers  the  entire  space 
of  ground  between  St.  James  and  Notre  Dame  streets,  and  has 
two  beautiful  fronts.  The  house  has  been  thoroughly  refitted^ 
and  furnished  with  every  regard  to  comfort  and  luxury;  has 
hot  and  cold  water  with  baths  and  closets  on  each  floor.  The 
aim  has  been  to  make  this  the  most  unexceptionable  first-class 
hotel  in  Montreal.  Messrs.  Browne  & Perley,  the  proprietors, 
have  had  long  experience  in  first-class  hotels  in  the  United 
States  and  Canada ; and  guests  can  be  sure  of  every  attention 
and  comfort.  The  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  corner  of  St.  James 
and  St.  Francois  Xavier  streets,  is  a large  hotel  much  affected 
by  English  tourists,  and  the  St.  James,  on  the  street  of  the 
same  name,  fronting  Victoria  square,  is  a quiet  and  comfort- 
able house.  But  the  Ottawa  will  be  most  satisfactory  to 
Americans,  being  kept  in  the  style  of  hotels  in  “ the  States,” 
and  provided  with  all  modern  conveniences. 


II 


250 


TOURISTS^  HAJ^DBOOK, 


Public  Squares  and  Buildings. 

Victoria  square,  in  the  center  of  the  city,  at  the  intersection 
of  McGill  and  St.  James  streets,  is  a pretty  enclosure  with  a 
fountain  in  the  center,  and  fronting  St.  James  street,  stands  a 
bronze  statue  of  Her  Majesty.  This  admirable  work  of 
art,  was  erected  on  the  21st  of  November,  1872,  and  pre- 
sented to  the  City  by  His  Excellency  the  Governor  General. 
The  cost  of  the  statue,  including  that  of  the  pedestal, — the 
gift  of  the  Corporation, —was  $13,000.  The  Place  d’Armes, 
a pretty  little  garden  enclosed  with  an  iron  fence,  fills  a square 
between  St.  James  and  Notre  Dame  streets,  and  upon  it,  (on 
the  latter  street),  fronts  the  magnificent  cathedral  of  Notre 
Dame.  The  Champ  de  Mars,  on  Craig  street,  at  the  end  of 
St.  James,  is  a famous  promenade  for  citizens  and  strangers, 
being  the  general  parade  and  review  ground  of  the  military, 
and  is  frequently  enlivened  during  the  summer  evenings  by 
music  from  the  fine  bands  of  the  regiments.  Viger  Square 
near  the  Champ  de  Mars,  is  beautifully  laid  out  into  a garden, 
with  conservatory,  fountains.  The  Place  Jacques  Cartier,  a 
broad,  steep  street,  running  from  Notre  Dame  to  the  Bonsecour 
pier,  is  surmounted  at  its  highest  point  by  a tall  column 
known  as  the  Nelson  monument,  which  was  originally  quite 
pretentious,  but  is  now  in  a rather  dilapidated  condition. 
Among  the  public  buildings  worthy  of  especial  note,  are  the 
new  Court  House,  on  Notre  Dame  Street,  and  directly  oppo- 
site to  Nelson’s  Monument,  of  elegant  cut  stone,  in  the  Gre- 
cian-Ionic style ; the  Post-Office,  on  St.  James  Street,  a beau- 
tiful cut-stone  building;  the  Merchants’  Exchange,  on  St. 
Sacrament  Street ; the  Mechanics’  Institute,  a very  fine  build- 
ing, situated  on  St.  James  Street,  of  cut  stone,  three  stories 
high,  built  in  the  Italian  style;  the  Mercantile  Library  Asso- 
ciation Building,  Bonaventure  Street;  the  Bank  of  Montreal, 
Place  d’Armes,  St.  James  Street,  opposite  the  Cathedral,  an 
elegatit  cut-stone  building  of  the  Corinthian  order ; the  City 
Bank,  next  to  the  above,  in  the  Grecian  style  of  cut  stone ; 
the  bank  of  British  North  America,  St.  James  Street,  next  to 


tourists*  handbook. 


^51 

the  Post  Office,  a handsome  building  of  cut  stone,  in  the 
Composite  style  of  architecture ; Molson’s  Bank,  St.  James 
Street,  a handsome  structure ; the  Bonsecours  Market,  on  St. 
Paul  and  Water  Streets,  a magnificent  edifice  in  the  Grecian- 
Doric  style,  cost  about  $300,000,  and  contains  the  various 
offices  of  the  city;  the  McGill  College,  an  institution  of  very 
high  repute,  founded  by  the  Hon.  James  McGill,  who  be- 
queathed a valuable  estate  and  £10,000  for  its  endowment; 
the  Old  Government  House,  Notre  Dame  Street,  now  occu- 
pied as  the  Normal  School ; the  Barracks  ; the  Custom  House, 
St.  Paul  Street;  Hotel-Dieu  Hospital,  Sherbrooke  Street; 
and  many  others.  The  Lachine  Canal  is  among  the  public 
works  of  which  the  city  may  feel  proud. 

Churches  and  Religious  Institutions. 

Of  these  there  are  many  and  notable.  The  French  Cathe- 
dral of  Notre  Dame,  fronting  on  the  Place  d’  Armes  is  per- 
haps the  one  which  first  attracts  the  visitor.  It  is  the  largest 
on  this  continent,  seating  10,000  persons.  It  is  255  feet  long 
by  144  wide  and  has  two  towers  on  its  front,  each  220  feet 
high.  From  the  top  of  one  of  these  towers,  to  ascend  which 
a fee  of  25  cents  entitles  the  visitor,  a magnificent  view  is 
gained  of  the  city,  the  river,  spanned  by  the  Victoria  bridge, 
and  alive  with  shipping,  the  islands  and  the  American  shore. 
In  this  tower  hangs  the  bell  Gros  Bourdon,”  the  largest  in 
America,  weighing  15  tons,  and  in  the  other  tower  is  a fine 
chime  of  bells.  The  Church  of  the  Gesu,  or  Jesuit  church, 
on  Bleury  street,  is  famed  for  the  magnificence  of  its  interior 
decorations,  especially  its  frescoes,  portraits  of  saints  and 
altar-pieces.  The  nave  is  75  feet  high  and  the  roof  is  sus- 
tained by  rich  composite  columns.  St.  Patrick’s  church  on 
Lagauchetiere  street,  is  240  by  90  feet,  with  a spire  225  feet 
high.  Christ  Church  Cathedral  (English)  a splendid  Gothic 
church  on  Catherine  street,  is  cruciform,  with  a stone  spire 
224  feet  high  from  the  centre  of  the  cross.  It  is  of  Caen  and 
Montreal  stone,  and  is  lighted  by  stained  glass  windows,  sev- 


2^2  TOXimsTS^  nAi^DBOOK, 

eral  of  which  are  very  beautiful  memorial  offerings.  The  roof 
is  sustained  by  elegantly  carved  Caen  stone  pillars.  In  the 
vestry  is  a bust  of  Bishop  Fulford  and  a painting  of  the  Rev. 
John  Bethune,  for  many  years  rector.  In  the  enclosure  out- 
side, is  a fine  monument  to  Bishop  Fulford.  Adjoining  is  a 
chapter-house  and  library.  There  are  besides  almost  innu- 
merable churches  — Episcopal,  Catholic  and  Presbyterian 
predominating,  all  of  stone  and  all  costly  and  handsome.  On 
Dorchester  street,  an  immense  new  Catholic  cathedral,  to  be 
a copy  ot  St.  Peter’s  at  Rome,  but  smaller,  is  slowly  building, 
and  near  by  is  the  Bishop’s  Palace.  Of  the  nunneries,  that 
of  the  Grey  Nuns  on  Guy  street,  near  Dorchester,  is  most 
visited.  It  is  customary  to  be  here  a few  minutes  before  noon 
and  take  seats  in  the  chapel,  where,  at  the  stroke  of  12  the 
nuns  enter  in  procession,  kneel  and  chant  the  prescribed 
prayers,  in  a subdued,  sing-song  tone  of  voice  that  is  unspeak- 
ably depressing.  Afterwards,  visitors  are  conducted  over  the 
immense  building,  along  acres  of  halls  with  floors  scoured  to 
the  whiteness  of  snow,  into  the  departments  of  the  paupers, 
imbeciles  and  foundlings,  through  the  artificial  flower  rooms, 
the  laundry  and  other  departments. 

The  Drive  Around  the  Mountain. 

By  far  the  most  delightful  excursion  is  that  around  Mount 
Royal,  over  a splendid  macadamized  road,  making  a trip  of 
nine  miles.  Ascending  on  the  east  side  and  passing  around 
to  the  north  and  west,  a magnificent  view  is  gained  of  the 
valley  of  the  Ottawa,  the  hamlet  of  Charleroi  with  its  convent 
and  church,  with  other  villages  nestling  in  the  fertile  valley, 
and  the  beautiful  villas  here  and  there  dotting  the  mountain 
side.  On  the  back  side  of  the  mountain  are  several  tanneries, 
around  which  quite  a little  French  hamlet  has  sprung  up,  and 
near  by  is  the  Half-Way  House,  where  your  driver  will  not, 
probably,  refuse  to  take  a glass  of  ‘‘’alf  and  ’alf,”  or  ‘‘  shandy 
gaff”  at  your  expense.  [N.  B.  — If  you  ever  “ take  anything,” 
yourself,  you  will  find  it  good.]  On  the  W’ay  towards  town 


TOURISTS'  HAND  BOOR'. 


253  . 


on  the  west  side,  the  entrance  to  Mount  Royal  Cemetery,  the 
French  burying  ground,  is  passed,  and  it  is  often  visited  by 
strangers.  The  sight  of  a procession  of  hearses,  which  have 
come  here  with  as  many  funerals,  racing  on  their  way  back  to 
town,  seems  odd  to  any  one  but  a native,  yet  it  is  often  seen. 
The  hearses  for  children  are  here  very  handsome  — snow 
white  with  figures  of  angels  at  the  corners  and  profusely  orna- 
mented. A little  further  down,  the  carriage  stops  and  you 
step  out  upon  a broad  platform,  whence  the  outlook  upon  the 
broad  St.  Lawrence,  with  Nun’s  Island  rising  far  away  in 
the  distance,  is  very  fine.  To  the  south,  lie  the  blue  hills  of 
Vermont,  and  at  our  very  feet  nestle  the  imposing  buildings 
of  Montreal.  Returning  to  the  city,  it  will  be  worth  while  to 
drive  through  Sherbrooke  street  and  admire  them  any  beauti- 
ful residences  with  their  extensive  grounds.  Those  of  Mr. 
Brydges,  Mr.  Redpath  and  Sir  Hugh  Allan,  (the  last  far  up 
the  mountain  side  and  reached  by  a long  private  avenue),  are 
among  the  finest  in  this  vicinity.  Still  further  down  town, 
Dorchester  street  has  many  splendid  mansions,  — that  of  Mr. 
Harrison  Stevens,  the  owner  of  the  Ottawa  Hotel  property, 
being  perhaps  the  finest.  The  house  is  completely  surrounded 
by  a lovely  park,  with  dense  folliage,  shady  walks,  clumps 
and  mounds  of  flowers,  statuary,  fountains,  etc.  On  the 
corner  of  University  street  is  the  St.  James  Club,  a large  and 
elegant  establishment.  In  the  winter,  when  the  mountain 
roads  are  deeply  covered  with  snow,  and  when  the  fences  are 
invisible  beneath  the  icy  crust,  a favorite  sport  is  ‘‘  snow- 
shoeing.”  Clubs  of  young  men  with  their  snow  shoes  start 
out  of  a moonlight  evening  for  a tramp  of  a dozen  or  fifteen 
miles,  and  return  with  tired  limbs,  flushed  cheeks  and  pro- 
digious appetites.  Coasting  down  the  mountain  on  sleds  is 
also  a favorite  Montreal  amusement,  as  is  skating. 

Next  in  interest  to  the  drive  around  the  mountain  is  that  on 
the  Lachine  road,  leading  to  the  village  of  that  name,  nine 
miles  from  the  city.  The  road  is  directly  along  the  banks  of 
the  river,  presenting  scenery  of  unsurpassed  beauty  and 


2S4 


rOl/RISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


grandeur.  It  is  a lovely  drive.  If  the  proper  hour  is 
selected,  a view  may  be  had  of  the  descent  of  the  steamer 
over  the  rapids.  Another  favorite  drive  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  is  to  Longue  Pointe,  being  in  an  opposite  direction 
from  the  last,  and  down  the  bank  of  the  river. 

The  River  Commerce  of  Montreal. 

An  immense  volume  of  wealth  pours  into  Montreal,  through 
the  St.  Lawrence,  that  great  funnel  with  its  mouth  to  the 
northeast,  and  its  outlet  in  Lake  Ontario.  Besides  the  lines  of 
steamers  above  Montreal,  there  are  the  Richelieu  Company’s 
steamers  “Quebec”  and  “Montreal,”  for  Quebec,  daily;  the 
Union  Steamboat  Company’s  steamers  “Abyssinian”  and 
“ Athenian  ” for  the  same  point ; the  Ottawa  River  Navigation 
Company’s  boats  “Peerless,”  “Prince  of  Wales,”  “Qiieen 
Victoria,”  and  “ Princess,”  for  Ottawa,  twice  daily;  the  Allan 
Line  Ocean  Steamships  for  Quebec,  Liverpool  and  Glasgow, 
twice  each  week;  the  Dominion  Line  Steamships  for  Quebec 
and  Liverpool,  weekly,  and  the  Temperley  Line  of  Steam- 
ships for  Quebec  and  London,  every  two  weeks.  The  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  radiating  in  every  direction  except  north, 
affords  land  communication  with  the  western  cities,  Boston, 
New  York  and  Quebec. 

Down  the  River  to  Quebec. 

By  far  the  most  delightful  voyage  from  Montreal  is  that  down 
the  St.  Lawrence  to  Quebec,  and  if  we  wish  a good  night’s 
rest,  and  fine  views  of  the  river  at  either  end  of  it,  (the  night’s 
rest,  not  the  river,)  , and  a sight  of  Quebec,  by  sunrise,  we  will 
embark,  in  the  afternoon,  on  either  of  the  Richelieu  or  Union 
steamers  named  above,  and  continue  down  the  river,  the  first 
place  passed  being  Longueil,  a small  village  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  river,  3 miles  below  Montreal.  Fifteen  miles  below 
Montreal  is  Varennes,  situated  between  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
Richelieu  Rivers.  It  is  connected  with  Montreal  by  a line  of 
steamers,  and  is  attracting  attention  on  account  of  its  mineral 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


2SS 


springs.  The  first  stopping  place  is  at  Sorcl,  forty-five  miles 
below  Montreal,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Richelieu,  having  in  the 
vicinity  good  fishing,  and  snipe-shooting.  Just  below,  the 
river  expands  into  Lake  St.  Peter,  25  miles  long,  and  9 miles 
wide.  Half  way  between  Montreal  and  Quebec  is  the  town  of 
Trois  Rivieres,  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Maurice.  This  is  one  of 
the  oldest  towns  in  Canada,  is  the  residence  of  a Catholic 
bishop,  and  has  a cathedral  and  convent.  Thirty  miles  from 
Trois  Rivieres  is  the  mouth  of  the  Shawenegan  River;  and 
a little  above,  on  the  St.  Maurice  River,  are  the  Shawenegan 
Falls,  where  the  water  leaps  down  150  feet  perpendicularly. 
The  last  place  at  which  steamers  stop  before  reaching  Quebec 
is  Batiscan.  In  passing  down  the  St.  Lawrence  from  Mon- 
treal, the  country  upon  its  banks  presents  a sameness  in  its 
general  scenery,  until  we  approach  the  vicinity  of  Quebec. 
The  villages  and  hamlets  are  decidedly  French  in  character, 
and  are  generally  made  up  of  small  buildings,  the  better  class 
of  which  are  painted  white,  or  whitewashed,  with  red  roofs. 
Prominent  in  the  distance  appear  the  tin-covered  spires  of  the 
Catholic  churches,  which  form  the  central  figures  of  each  of 
the  villages.  As  we  near  Quebec,  we  see  the  banks  of  the 
north  shore  of  the  river  become  more  bold  and  finally  pre- 
cipitous, and  the  houses  nestle  at  the  foot  of  the  bluffs  at  the 
edge.  The  rafts  of  timber  afford  a highly-interesting  feature 
on  the  river.  On  each  a shed  is  built  for  the  raftsmen,  some 
of  whom  rig  out  their  huge,  unwieldy  craft  with  gay  stream- 
ers, which  flutter  from  the  tops  of  poles.  Thus,  when  several 
of  these  rafts  are  grappled  together,  forming,  as  it  were,  a 
floating  island  of  timber,  half  a mile  wide  and  a mile  long, 
the  sight  is  extremely  picturesque.  Myriads  of  these  rafts 
may  be  seen  lying  in  the  coves  at  Quebec,  ready  to  be  shipped 
to  the  different  parts  of  the  world.  In  the  early  morning,  we 
look  out  upon  a wall  of  rock  rising  above  us  on  the  left  bank, 
like  a mountain  range,  and  at  its  base  acres  of  these  rafts  are 
moored.  Soon  we  round  a lofty  bluff  to  the  left;  we  catch  a 
glimpse  of  a mighty  cliff,  capped  by  a noble  fortress,  and  in  a 


256 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


moment  Quebec  is  before  us.  In  five  minutes  more  we  land 
on  the  quay. 


The  City  of  Quebec  and  its  History. 

Quebec,  the  great  historic  fortress  of  North  America,  what 
associations  of  romance  and  tradition  throng  the  mind  of  the 
visitor  who  first  gazes  upon  “ the  walled  city!  ” Even  in  that 
name,  “walled  city,”  there  is  something  so  mediaeval,  so  old- 
worldish,  that  it  seems  more  a dream  than  a reality  that  it  is 
before  us.  The  first  view  of  the  historic  city,  in  the  radiance 
of  early  morning,  is  most  inspiring  and  brilliant.  The  bold, 
massive  headland  of  Cape  Diamond  juts  a wall  of  eternal 
rock  into  the  river.  Perched  on  its  summit  is  the  gray  old 
citadel,  frowning  down  upon  the  river  and  the  town,  which 
latter  clings  to  the  sides  of  the  mountain  and  clusters  round 
its  base,  as  if  ever  vainly  trying  to  creep  to  the  top,  and  ever 
slipping  down.  The  roofs  and  steeples,  sheathed  in  glittering 
tin,  shine  in  the  sun  as  if  of  burnished  gold,  while  the  green 
slopes  of  the  glacis  leading  up  to  the  citadel  look  like  a velvet 
curtain  ready  to  be  drawn  over  the  dazzling  show.  With  the 
landing  at  the  quay  all  the  romance  vanishes.  You  awake  to 
the  fact  of  narrow,  dirty  streets,  importunate  cabmen  and 
shaky  calashes,  which  make  one  seasick  to  look  at,  and  nearly 
shake  one  into  an  omelet  to  ride  in.  By  a street  only  less 
steep  than  the  roofs  of  the  houses,  you  are  conveyed  part  way 
up  the  cliff,  to  the  “upper  town,”  which  hangs  midway  be- 
tween the  citadel  and  the  river,  and  which  only  the  most  per- 
sistent belaboring  and  a shocking  waste  of  artistic  profanity 
(in  French  Canadian  patois)  can  induce  the  horses  to  sur- 
mount. It  is  evident  there  is  no  S.  for  the  P.  of  C.  to  A.  in 
Quebec.  You  reach  your  hotel,  the  St.  Louis,  on  the  street  of 
the  same  name,  or  the  Russell  House  on  Garden  street,  both 
kept  by  Willis  Russell,  Esq.,  and  excellent  houses;  and  after 
a hearty  breakfast,  are  ready  for  a tour  of  the  city  or  a drive 
into  the  environs.  You  will  have  plenty  of  offers  of  calashes, 
coaches  and  cabs,  but  the  best  plan  is  to  select  a nice  looking. 


Tot/Risrs^  HANDBOOiC. 


^57 


English-speaking  driver,  with  a clean  one-horse  hack,  and 
make  a solemn  compact  with  him  to  drive  you  wherever  you 
want  to  go  and  be  as  long  as  you  desire  about  it,  for  so  much 
an  hour.  You  can  make  the  terms  easy  and  can  afford  a long 
drive. 

A Short  Chapter  of  History. 

The  city  of  Qiiebec  was  founded  by  Samuel  de  Champlain, 
in  1608.  In  1622  the  population  was  reduced  to  fifty  souls.  In 
June,  1759,  the  English  army  under  General  Wolfe  landed 
upon  the  Island  of  Orleans.  On  the  12th  September  took 
place  the  celebrated  battle  of  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  which 
resulted  in  the  death  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  and  defeat  of 
the  French  army.  A force  of  five  thousand  English  troops 
under  Gen.  Murray  was  left  to  garrison  the  fort,  and  in  April 
following  was  besieged  by  the  Chevalier  de  Levis  and  his  re- 
organized French  army.  In  a sortie  of  Murray,  he  lost  1000 
men  and  20  cannon,  and  had  to  retire  again  within  the  walls. 
The  coming  of  an  English  fleet  raised  the  siege,  and  the 
Treaty  of  Paris  gave  Quebec  to  England.  On  New  Year's 
Eve,  December  31,  1775,  Generals  Montgomery  and  Arnold, 
with  a force  of  New  England  and  Cgntinential  troops,  at- 
tempted to  storm  Quebec,  but  Montgomery  fell  at  the  head  of 
the  forlorn  hope,  (a  sign  on  the  rock  above  points  out  the 
spot)  and  Arnold’s  men  were  hemmed  in  and  a part  of  them 
captured.  Since  then  the  city  has  dwelt  in  peace,  though  its 
magnificent  fortifications  have  been  preserved  and  stregth- 
ened  until  within  a few  years,  the  home  government  has  with- 
drawn the  regular  troops,  and  the  wall  has  been  partially  dis- 
mantled. 

The  Walls  and  Fortifications. 

Quebec  is  nearly  triangular  in  form,  built  upon  the  crest 
and  around  the  base  of  Cape  Diamond,  a lofty  headland  ris- 
ing from  the  intersection  of  the  St.  Charles  and  St.  Lawrence 
rivers,  in  an  almost  perpendicular  cliff  from  100  to  200  feet 
high.  On  the  brow  of  this  cliff  the  walls  are  built  of  solid 


258 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


hewn  stone,  bastioned  and  loopholed,  and  at  the  angles  and 
salient  points,  batteries  of  artillery  are  placed.  Two  sides  of 
the  triangle  of  Cape  Diamond  are  thus  guarded.  On  the 
landward  side,  far  up  above  the  city  proper,  the  triangle  is 
completed  by  a line  of  wonderfully  strong  works,  consisting 
of  ramparts,  ditches  and  outworks,  while  at  the  corner,  near- 
est the  St.  Lawrence  and  on  the  very  apex  of  Cape  Diamond, 
350  feet  above  the  river,  stands  the  Citadel.  Since  the  regu- 
lars were  withdrawn,  a small  body  of  Dominion  artillery 
garrisons  the  Citadel,  and  visitors  are  shown  over  it.  From 
the  northerly  bastion  the  view  of  the  river,  the  new  fortifica- 
tions at  Pointe  Levis  on  the  south  shore ; of  the  city  and 
suburbs  and  the  valley  of  the  St.  Charles,  is  magnificent.  The 
works  of  the  citadel  are  the  wonder  of  engineers  and  military 
men.  Underneath  the  ramparts  on  which  we  stand  are  case- 
mates, now  used  as  barracks,  and  beneath  them  yet  another  tier ; 
at  each  angle  is  an  Armstrong  hundred  pounder,  and  all  around 
heavy  ordnance  frowns  through  dark  embrasure.  The  pro- 
visions for  the  storage  of  ammunition  and  supplies  are  won- 
derful, and  the  number  of  men  which  can  here  be  accommo- 
dated and  utilized  as  a garrison  seems  incredible  to  any  but 
military  visitors.  Outside  the  Citadel  are  the  ‘‘old  French 
works,”  now  in  ruins,  and  a line  of  martello  towers,  four  in 
number.  These  extend  across  the  peninsula,  and  are  con- 
nected by  underground  passages  with  the  Citadel.  Originally, 
access  from  any  direction  to  the  “ Upper  Town,”  as  the  enclo- 
sure inside  the  walls  is  called,  was  through  five  gates, — mas- 
sive stone  arches,  with  iron  doors,  protected  by  powerful 
works  and  armaments.  Of  these,  the  St.  Louis  gate,  near 
the  covered  way  communicating  with  the  Citadel,  was  the 
entrance  from  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  by  the  Grande  Allee ; 
the  St.  John’s  Gate,  on  the  street  of  the  same  name,  towards 
the  St.  Charles,  was  the  entrance  way  of  the  St.  Foy  road; 
the  Palace  Gate,  on  the  street  of  the  same  name,  led  down 
into  the  Lower  Town  near  the  St.  Charles ; the  Hope  Gate, 
on  St.  Famille  street,  900  feet  east  of  the  Palace  Gate,  led  to 


TOt/RISTS'  HANt)B00lC 


259 


the  wharves  of  the  liarbor,  and  the  Prescott  Gate,  on  Moun- 
tain street,  barred  the  waj  tip  from  the  Lower  Town  market 
and  the  steamboat  piers.  All  these  gates,  except  the  St. 
John’s,  which  was  rebuilt  in  1867,  have  been  removed  on  ac- 
count of  their  obstruction  of  business.  The  walls  have  also 
been  lowered,  and  a portion  of  the  armament  removed. 

The  Public  Buildings  of  Quebec. 

The  Parliament  House,  where  sits  the  Provincial  Legisla- 
ture, is  a large  old  building,  overlooking  the  former  site  of 
the  Prescott  Gate.  On  the  ramparts  in  front  of  this  building 
is  the  Grand  Battery  of  (22)  32-pounders.  But  a short  dis- 
tance south,  is  the  Durham  Terrace,  a broad,  level  platform 
of  wood,  with  an  iron  railing  on  the  river  side,  which  rests  on 
massive  cut  stone,  on  the  very  verge  of  the  cliff.  These  foun- 
dations were  those  of  the  Chateau  St.  Louis,  the  first  building 
in  Quebec,  of  which  Champlain  laid  the  corner  stone  May  6, 
1624.  January  23,  1834,  the  castle  was  burned,  and  by  Lord 
Durham’s  order  the  ruins  were  cleared  away  and  this  terrace 
built.  It  is  the  fashionable  promenade,  and  in  the  evening 
the  views  of  the  river  are  very  fine.  From  the  terrace  we 
may  look  down  into  the  houses  in  the  Lower  Town,  and 
might  almost  toss  a stone  into  their  back  windows.  The 
Governor’s  Garden  is  near  by.  It  is  a rather  neglected  little 
park,  with  gravel  walks  and  a few  benches.  Its  principal 
feature  is  a plain,  tall  obelisk,  known  as  the  “ Wolfe  and 
Montcalm’s  Monument,”  the  foundation  stone  of  which  was 
laid  by  Lord  Dalhousie,  with  imposing  ceremonies,  on 
Thursday,  November  15,  1827.  The  monument  is  from  a 
design  by  Major  Young  of  the  Seventy-Ninth,  and  cost  up- 
wards of  £700.  Being  65  feet  in  height,  it  is  a striking  object 
from  the  river,  rising  as  it  does  clear  from  the  garden.  It 
bears  two  inscriptions ; one  of  them  by  Dr.  J.  Charlton 
Fisher,  as  follows:  — 

‘‘Mortem  Virtus  Communem 
Famam  Historia, 

Monumentum  posteritas 
Debit.” 


260 


TOURISTS*  handbook. 


The  Lower  Governor's  Garden  is  separated  from  the  one 
just  described  by  Rue  des  Carrieres,  and  has  a masked  battery 
for  its  principal  feature.  The  Place  d’Armes  is  a neat  little 
garden,  with  a fountain,  near  the  Durham  Terrace,  and  the 
Anglican  Cathedral,  a large,  plain  old  structure  of  stone,  in 
which  are  the  tomb  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  who  died 
while  Governor  General  of  Canada,  in  1819,  and  the  monu- 
ment of  Bishop  Mountain.  The  church  has  a fine  communion 
service  presented  by  George  III,  and  a chime  of  bells,  which 
the  “ artist”  in  charge  jangles  most  horribly  on  Sundays.  It 
contains  many  memorial  tablets,  mostly  to  British  officers 
who  have  died  while  on  duty  here.  The  Catholic  Cathedral 
of  the  Immaculate  Conception  fronts  the  Market  Square  near 
by,  and  is  a fine  old  structure  with  some  valuable  pictures, 
among  which  one  of  Christ  by  Van  Dyck  is  the  finest.  The 
Seminary,  founded  by  Bishop  Laval,  and  the  University  which 
bears  his  name,  join  the  Cathedral  on  the  northeast.  The 
University  has  a library  of  50,000  volumes  and  a splendid 
museum,  and  the  Seminary  has  a quaint  old  chapel  with  some 
fine  paintings.  There  are  about  400  students,  who  wear  a 
peculiar  uniform.  The  market  square  is  worth  visiting  on 
market  days,  for  the  quaint,  old  country  pictures  it  presents. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  square  are  the  Jesuit  Barracks,  so 
called,  originally  built  for  a college  in  1646,  but  since  1759 
used  as  quarters  for  troops.  On  Garden  street,  near  by,  is 
the  Ursuline  Convent,  which  with  its  gardens  covers  seven 
acres.  In  the  chapel  rest  the  remains  of  Montcalm. 

The  Suburbs  of  Quebec. 

Passing  out  through  the  St.  John  Gate,  we  traverse  the 
suburb  of  St.John,  much  the  most  modern  and  thriving  look- 
ing part  of  the  city.  It  lies  on  the  high  ground  outside  the 
walls,  and  contains  many  fine  dwellings,  stores  and  modern 
churches.  Steep  streets  lead  down  to  the  suburb  of  St.  Rochs, 
where  are  the  Marine  and  General  Hospitals,  imposing  and 
extensive  institutions.  This  part  of  the  city  was  ravaged  by 
fire  and  almost  annihilated  some  years  ago. 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


261 


By  the  Grande  Alice,  we  traverse  the  historic  Plains  of 
Abraham,  a lofty  plateau  on  the  landward  slope  of  Cape  Dia- 
mond, outside  the  citadel.  At  the  time  of  the  great  battle 
identified  with  the  name,  the  whole  heights,  or  plains  as  they 
are  indifferently  called,  extended  from  the  walls  to  the  woods 
of  Sillery  and  St.  Foy,  and  were  bounded  on  one  side  by  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  on  the  other  by  the  St.  Charles.  Since 
then,  great  encroachments  have  been  made;  the  suburbs  of 
St.  Louis  and  St.  John  occupy  great  portions ; and  the  name 
Plains  has  for  a numberof  years  been  confined  to  an  enclosed 
place,  which  is  now  a race-course.  Sic  transit!  Near  by  is  the 
jail,  a substantial,  cosey  looking  structure,  and  near  that,  the 
Wolfe  monument  — a plain  circular  column,  rising  from  a 
square  pedestal,  and  surmounted  by  a sword  and  helmet.  On 
the  one  side  of  the  pedestal  is  an  inscription,  as  follows : 

HERE  DIED 

WOLFE 

VICTORIOUS 

Sept.  13 
1759* 

And  on  the  other  side 

THIS  PILLAR 
WAS  ERECTED  BY  THE 

BRITISH  ARMY 

IN  CANADA,  1849. 

HIS  EXCELLENCY 
LIEUTENANT  GENERAL 

SIR  BENJAMIN  D’URBAIN 

G.  C.  B.,  K.  C.  H.,  K.  C.  T.  S.,  ETC. 

COMMANDER  OF  THE  FORCES. 

TQ  REPLACE  THAT  ERECTED  BY 
GOVERNOR  GENERAL  LORD  AYLMER,  G.  C.  B., 

IN  1832, 

WHICH  WAS  BROKEN  AND  DEFACED, 

AND  IS  DEPOSITED  BENEATH. 

The  Cap  Rouge  road,  on  which  we  now  enter,  is  a pleasant 
drive,  bordered  by  fine  villas.  Spencer  Wood,  a magnificent 
park,  with  concrete  driveways  half  a mile  long,  lighted  all  the 
way  by  street  lamps,  and  with  all  the  pomp  of  a feudal  domain 


262 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


about  it,  is  the  residence  of  the  Provincial  Lieutenant  Governor. 
Knowing  this,  it  is  a disappointment  to  find  that  his  mansion 
is  an  old,  yellow  barrack,  with  no  pretensions  to  beauty,  out- 
wardly, at  least.  Visitors  often  cross  from  this  point  to  St.  Foy 
road  and  return  to  the  city  by  the  St.  John’s  Gate,  passing  on 
the  left  the  ‘‘Monument  aux  Braves,”  a tall  column,  sur- 
mounted by  a statue  of  Bellona,  presented  by  Prince  Napo- 
leon. This  monument  marks  the  scene  of  the  second  battle 
of  the  Plains,  where  Murray  was  defeated  by  De  Levis  as 
already  described,  and  was  erected  in  1854  by  the  French  resi- 
dents, over  the  remains  of  hundreds  of  their  blood  who  fell 
in  that  conflict. 

The  Indian  village  of  Lorette,  near  the  falls  of  the  same 
name,  nine  miles  inland,  is  often  visited ; so  also  are  the 
Chaudiere  Falls,  350  feet  wide  and  150  feet  high,  18  miles 
from  Pointe  Levis,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river. 

The  Palls  of  Montmorenci. 

But  the  most  interesting  of  the  wonders  near  Quebec,  are 
the  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  eight  miles  from  the  city  by  the 
Beauport  road.  Crossing  the  St.  Charles,  we  follow  the  bank 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  at  some  distance,  passing  several  hand- 
some villas  and  chateux,  and  an  old  mansion  house,  now  in 
ruins,  where  Montcalm  had  his  head-quarters  at  one  time. 
Beauport  is  a long  village,  on  both  sides  the  road,  with  no 
particular  beginning  nor  ending,  and  notable  for  its  French- 
ness in  cottages,  people  and  dialect;  also  for  the  crowds  of 
children  who  run  beside  your  carriage,  with  bunches  of  flow- , 
ers  which  they  expect  you  to  accept  — in  return  for  small 
siver  coin.  The  Falls  are  seen  by  dismounting  and  traversing 
a field  a short  distance  to  a pavilion,  which  brings  us  face  to 
face  with  the  cataract.  Here  the  Montmorenci  river  plunges 
down  a perpendicular  precipice  250  feet  high,  into  a tre- 
mendous yawning  gorge,  with  a roar  that  is  heard  for  a 
long  distance.  So  abrupt  is  the  fall  that  the  water  is  beaten 
into  perfect  foam,  and  looks  more  like  a sheet  of  wool  hung 


rouKisrs'  handbook. 


263 


on  the  face  of  the  rock  than  a cataract  of  water.  Just  above 
the  Falls  are  the  towers  of  a suspension  bridge,  which  spanned 
the  river,  but  soon  fell  and  pitched  three  persons  into  the 
chasm  below.  They  were  killed. 

Ste.  Anne,  24  miles  below  Qiiebec,  is  visited  by  steamer  if 
one  chooses  to  make  the  excursion.  Its  objects  of  interest 
are  several  picturesque  falls,  lofty  mountains  and  a pretty  little 
pilgrimage-church,  where  the  relics  of  Ste.  Anne  are  exhibited, 
and  whereby  many  wonderful  cures  of  the  sick  are  reported. 
There  are  also  many  other  excursions  from  Quebec,  if  we 
have  time  and  inclination.  They  will  be  suggested  by  the 
driver. 


The  Ijower  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Saguenay. 

The  tour  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Saguenay  is 
made*  from  Quebec  by  the  steamers  of  the  Saguenay  Com- 
pany, whose  office  is  on  St.  Louis  street.  Opposite  the  hotel, 
Stevenson  and  Leve,  agents.  The  clerk  in  charge,  Mr. 
Stocking,  is  an  American  and  a white  man,  which  is  praise 
enough.  The  boats  leave  every  morning  except  Sunday  and 
Monday,  and  make  the  round  trip  in  48  hours.  Or  we  may 
take  the  Grand  Trunk  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  then  go 
up  by  steamer  to  Grand  Bay  (or  Ha,  Ha ! Bay,  as  it  is  also 
called.)  The  Saguenay  river  is  formed  by  a junction  of  two 
outlets  of  the  St.  John  Lake,  a body  of  water  covering  500 
square  miles,  and  lying  in  the  wilderness  125  miles  northwest 
of  Tadousac.  Up  towards  the  lake  there  are  magnificent  cas- 
cades, where  the  water  dashes  along  between  banks  of  solid 
rock  from  100  to  1,000  feet  high.  Ha-ha  Bay,  which  is  60 
miles  from  its  mouth,  affords  the  first  landing  and  anchorage 
for  steamers.  The  Saguenay  boats.  Union,  St.  Lawrence  and 
Saguenay,  are  small,  but  comfortable  and  well  found  boats, 
and  the  fare  is  excellent.  From  Quebec  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Saguenay,  the  scenery  of  the  lower  St.  Lawrence  is  magnifi- 
cent. On  a late  summer’s  day,  when  the  sun  shines  brightly, 
owing  to  some  peculiarly  atmospheric  condition,  the  land- 


264 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


scape  is  overspread  with  a soft  haze,  and  the  view  across  the 
glassy  water,  to  the  rolling  hills  and  gentle  slopes  of  the 
southern  bank  strikingly  resembles,  in  its  mellow,  dreamy 
softness,  an  Italian  landscape.  On  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  which  the  boat  hugs  most  of  the  way,  the  scenery 
is  grand  and  rugged,  a lofty,  precipitous  mountain  range 
extending  all  along;  the  cliffs,  rising  abruptly  from  the  water’s 
edge,  being  generally  densely  wooded  with  evergreens,  and 
frequently  threaded  with  sparkling  waterfalls.  At  St.  Paul’s 
Bay,  we  make  a stop  alongside  a fishing  schooner,  anchored 
in  deep  water  — the  shoals  inshore  prohibiting  a nearear  ap- 
proach — exchange  mails,  land  a passenger  or  two,  and  are 
off  again.  At  Eboulements  and  Murray  Bay,  stops  are  also 
made.  Then  we  dart  across  the  river  to  Riviere  du  Loup,  on 
the  south  shore,  where  is  a popular  Canadian  watering-place, 
and  which  also  serves  as  the  landing  for  Cacouna,  the  New- 
port of  the  Dominion.  Here  we  meet  the  other  boat  of  the 
line,  on  her  return  trip  from  the  Saguenay.  Again,  crossing 
the  river  abruptly,  we  are  soon  alongside  a little  pier  at 
Tadousac,  just  within  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  and  the 
captain  gives  us  an  hour’s  “ leave  on  shore.”  If  Cacouna  be 
the  Newport,  Tadousac  is  the  Long  Branch  of  the  Dominion. 
Here  Lord  Dufferin,  the  Governor-General,  has  a summer 
home,  emulating  the  Chief  Magistrate  of  the  States  in  the 
choice  of  a summer  capital,  by  the  sounding  sea.  The  St. 
Lawrence,  at  this  point,  is  quite  a sea  in  size,  and,  as  its 
waters  are  salt,  and  the  tides  flow  and  ebb,  “ sea  bathing”  is 
one  of  the  advertised  attractions.  There  is  a fine  hotel  at  the 
head  of  a crescent-shaped  bay  on  the  St.  Lawrence  side  of  a 
jutting  point,  and  quite  a group  of  Summer  cottages  on  the 
bluff  above. 


The  Mysterious  River. 

But  we  have  come  to  see  the  Saguenay  and  not  to  revel  in 
the  enjoyments  of  Tadousac,  and  soon  we  are  speeding  up 
that  mysterious  river,  just  as  the  sun  is  sinking  behind  the 


SAGUENAY  RIVER,  TADOUSAC 


13 


266 


TOURISTS’  HANDBOOK. 


grand  and  gloomy  cliffs  which  confine  it.  We  have  noticed, 
even  before  our  landing  atTadousac,  that  the  water  has  grown 
as  black  as  ink,  almost,  and  we  find  it  to  rival  Day  & Martin, 
as  soon  as  we  are  fairly  inside  the  point.  This  peculiarity, 
they  tell  us,  is  due  to  the  river’s  flowing  through  hemlock  and 
tamarack  swamps.  We  observe  that  the  churning  of  our  pad- 
dle wheels  produces,  not  white  froth,  but  something  resem- 
bling coffee  cream.  We  have  been  prepared  for  a wild  and 
startling  panorama,  for  fathomless  waters  and  precipitous, 
overhanging  walls  of  rock,  but  the  reality  surpasses  the  de- 
scription, and,  when  the  moon  comes  out  and  throws  her 
silver  radiance  across  the  gloomy  depths  beneath  us,  and 
tinges  with  pale  splendor  the  bare,  gray  cliffs  above,  the  effect 
is  strangely  weird  and  unreal.  The  banks  present  a continual 
succession  of  pictured  rocks  and  towering  precipices,  ‘‘It  is 
as  if  the  mountain  range  had  been  cleft  asunder,  leaving  a 
horrid  gulf  6o  miles  long  and  4000  feet  deep  through  the  gray 
mica  schist.”  Among  the  points  of  greatest  note  on  the 
Saguenay,  may  be  named  Statue  Point,  an  immense  perpen- 
dicular rock  below  Ha-ha  Bay,  which  rises  600  feet,  with  sides 
as  smooth  as  if  polished  by  a skillful  workman.  “ Statue 
Point  has  a huge  Gothic  arch,  opening  into  a vast  cave,  which 
it  is  said,  the  foot  of  man  never  trod.  Before  the  entrance  to 
this  black  aperture  a gigantic  rock,  like  the  statue  of  some 
dead  Titan,  once  stood.  A few  years  ago,  during  the  winter, 
it  gave  way;  and  the  monstrous  figure  came  crushing  down 
through  the  ice  of  the  Saguenay,  and  left  bare  to  view  the  en- 
trance to  the  cavern  it  had  guarded  perhaps  for  ages.”  Be- 
yond this  is  the  vast  Tableau  Rock,  a sheet  of  dark- colored 
limestone,  some  600  feet  high  by  300  wide,  as  straight  and  al- 
most as  smooth  as  a mirror. 

Ha,  Ha ! Bay 

About  midnight  we  arrive  at  Ha,  Ha!  Bay  and  take  on 
wood,  which  generally  occupies  the  rest  of  the  night,  as  the 
French  deck  hands  are  not  used  to  hurrying,  and  besides,  the 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


267 


passengcr-s  want  to  see  the  bay  by  early  morning  light.  Ila, 
Ha ! Bay  is  a broad  expanse  of  snrjooth  water,  shut  in  on  all 
sides  save  one  by  rugged  and  almost  inaccessible  cliffs.  This 
bay  is  a pocket,  opening  from  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  and 
is  said  to  be  seven  miles  deep.  At  the  bottom  of  the  pocket 
is  a strip  of  low  land,  which  has  been  improved  by  the  loca- 
tion of  two  little  hamlets,  named  respectively  St  Alphonse 
and  St.  Alexis.  The  latter  is  the  larger,  but  the  landing  is  at 
the  former.  Each  is  a cluster  of  little  cabins,  in  the  centre  of 
which  is  a small  church.  About  a mile  from  the  landing  is  a 
salmon  river,  where  in  the  season  the  salmon  may  be  seen  by 
scores,  leaping,  like  animated  bars  of  silver,  to  the  height  of 
several  feet,  in  the  attempt  to  surmount  the  falls.  This  sal- 
mon river,  like  most  in  the  Dominion,  is  rented  out  by  Gov- 
ernment, the  lessee  being  a Mr.  Price,  who  owns  a vast  lum- 
ber territory,  up  this  way,  and  seems  to  number  nearly  all  the 
inhabitants  among  his  employes.  About  all  the  pay  they  get 
comes  in  the  form  of  provisions  and  clothing  from  his  stores. 

To  the  Head  of  Navigation  and  Back  Again. 

Starting  on  our  way  again  we  proceed  out  of  the  bay  and  up 
the  river,  through  a tortuous  and  difficult  channel,  to  Chicou- 
timi, the  head  of  navigation.  Above  Ha,  Ha ! Bay,  the  shores 
of  the  river  are  less  abrupt,  frequent  fertile  slopes  and  green 
valleys  appear,  and  there  are  many  habitations.  Chicoutimi 
is  the  metropolis  of  this  region.  Here  is  Mr.  Price’s  lumber 
entrefot^  and  here  he  has  two  of  his  stores.  Large  barques  lie 
at  anchor  in  the  channel,  loading  with  the  staple  commodity 
sawn  at  the  mills  on  the  Chicoutimi  river,  which  here  empties 
into  the  Saguenay.  Chicoutimi  consists  of  a long,  straggling 
street,  lined  with  small  houses,  mostly  of  logs,  a barn-like 
frame  church,  a nunnery,  I he  residence  of  the  priest  and  those 
of  Mr.  Price  and  his  brother ; the  last  three  being  quite  com- 
fortable houses.  It  is  a most  lonesome  and  desolate  metro- 
polis, and  its  most  lonesome  and  desolate  feature  is  the  little 
graveyard  beside  the  church,  with  its  wooden  headboards,  bear- 


268 


TOURISTS*  HANDBOOK. 


ing  French  inscriptions  in  black  paint.  Upon  the  most  sightly 
prominence  overlooking  the  river,  are  rising  the  walls  of  a 
large  stone  building,  which  we  are  told  is  to  be  a Catholic  col- 
lege. Fancy  a college  in  these  wilds!  After  an  hour  or  two 
spent  in  seeing  the  sights  of  Chicoutimi,  we  start  on  our  return. 
Its  incidents  are  not  worth  record  till  about  2 p.  m.,  when  we 
reach  the  wonder  of  the  region,  the  great  object  which  we 
have  borne  in  mind  during  the  whole  trip,  but  which  we  have 
not  before  seen,  as  we  passed  it  in  the  night  on  our  up  trip  — 
Eternity  Bay. 

The  Wonder  of  Wonders. 

As  we  near  this  spot,  the  overhanging  cliffs  grow  higher, 
the  whole  panorama  wilder,  and  by  degrees  our  eyes  are  edu- 
cated to  a proper  appreciation  of  the  great  marvel.  We  are 
sailing  in  fathomless  waters  between  walls  of  rock,  towering 
hundreds  of  feet  above  us,  and  gradually  increasing  to  near 
2,000  feet  from  the  water’s  edge,  when  just  in  the  highest  part 
the  wall  is  cleft  asunder,  and  a broad  inlet  makes  into  the 
land.  That  is  Eternity  Bay.  The  steam  is  shut  off,  the 
vessel’s  head  turned  to  the  right,  and  slowly  she  drifts  into 
the  bay.  To  our  right  is  a Titanic  cliff,  at  first  descending  in 
three  gigantic  steps  to  the  water’s  edge,  but,  as  we  round  the 
point,  its  face  becomes  one  sheer,  perpendicular  surface  of 
rock,  veined  and  streaked  with  red  and  black,  as  if  the  solid 
mountain  had  been  split  asunder,  and  the  very  heart  of  the 
rock  exposed.  Its  upper  edge  bears  the  shape  of  three  domes, 
set  side  by  side,  justifying  the  title  of  Cape  Trinity.  Here  we 
drift  along,  while  the  steamer’s  whistle  is  blown  and  a small 
cannon  fired,  the  blasts  and  the  report  coming  back  to  us  in 
marvellously  distinct  echoes.  A box  of  small  stones  is  brought 
out,  and  we  try  to  throw  a pebble  across  the  apparently  insig- 
nificant expanse  of  water  between  us  and  the  cliff,  but  in  vain. 
Such  is  the  deception  in  distance,  due  to  the  overpowering 
height  of  the  cape,  that  the  strongest  arm  fails  to  compass  it. 
We  could  remain  here  for^hours,  and  every  moment  gain  a 


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269 


better  appreciation  of  the  majesty  of  the  scene,  but  time  fails, 
and  the  steam  is  again  applied,  and  the  boat’s  head  turned 
riverward.  As  we  pass  out  of  the  bay.  Cape  Eternity  looms 
above  us,  the  twin  sentinel  of  the  wonder  we  have  just  left, 
less  rugged  and  harsh,  but  even  more  massive  and  higher  by 
100  feet.  Its  loftiest  wall  towers  1,800  feet  perpendicularly 
above  the  dark  water  of  the  river,  which  is  here  said  to  be  a 
mile  and  a quarter  in  depth.  These  are  the  marvels  of  our 
journey,  and  they  passed,  nothing  remains  to  excite  our  won- 
der. The  rest  of  our  voyage  is  but  a repetition  of  what  we 
have  already  seen.  We  reach  the  mouth  of  the  river  at  night- 
fall, and  the  next  morning  we  again  land  at  Quebec. 

Other  Trips  from  Quebec. 

From  Quebec,  we  may  — if  we  desire  a longer  trip,  and  one 
which  will  give  us  a view  of  the  wild  and  majestic  scenery  of 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  boundless  expanse  of  the 
North  Atlantic  — take  passage  by  one  of  the  splendid  steam- 
ships of  the  Quebec  and  Gulf  Ports  Steamship  Company,  of 
which,  also,  Stevenson  & Leve  are  agents, — the  “ Secret,” 
“ Miramichi,”  or  ‘‘  Georgia,”  — for  Shediac,  Pictou,  or  Char- 
lottetown. On  the  trip  we  shall  see  Perce,  with  its  famous 
arched  rock  rising  from  the  waters,  and  aifording  a passage 
for  the  waves ; the  Isle  of  Orleans;  Father  Point;  Chaleur, 
Miramichi,  and  Gaspe  Bays.  From  Shediac  or  Pictou  we  may 
return  to  Boston  by  Intercolonial,  European  and  North  Amer- 
ican, Maine  Central  and  Eastern  Railways,  passing  through 
St.  John,  N.  B.,  Bangor,  Augusta  and  Portland,  Me.  A 
more  delightful  winding  up  of  a summer  trip  could  not  be 
imagined.  Or  we  may  cross  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Pointe 
Levis,  take  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  cars  and,  passing 
through  Richmond  Junction,  continue  our  journey  to  Port- 
land, Me.,  and  thence  home;  or  to  Newport,  Vt.,  and  thence 
to  the  White  Mountains  or  directly  to  Boston.  Or  we  may 
return  to  Montreal  and  thence  take  one  of  the  already  de- 
scribed routes  to  Boston. 


CHAPTER  XII, 

The  White  Mountains. 

F ROUTES  to  the  White 
Mountains  there  are 
many.  We  have  already 
in  imagination  traversed 
several ; but  we  will  now 
approach  “ the  Switzer- 
land of  America”  from 
the  north,  en  route  to  our 
Boston  homes.  From 
Quebec,  as  we  have  al- 
ready said,  the  trip  is 
made  via  Newport,  Vt., 
but  unless  one  wishes  to 
stay  awhile  at  Lake  Mem- 
phremagog,  this  route  is 
not  convenient,  the  con- 
nections being  uncertain 
and  far  from  ‘‘close.” 
From  Montreal,  there 
are  three  routes  from  which  to  choose : one  by  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  from  St.  Lambert  via  Richmond  Junction  to 
Littleton,  187,  or  Bethlehem,  199  miles  from  Boston;  the 
second,  via  South-eastern  and  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic 


272  TO  Vris  TS^  Ha  nd  book. 

Rivers  Railroads  from  St.  John’s,  down  through  Newport  to 
Wells  River,  Vt.,  and  thence  up  to  Littleton  or  Bethlehem; 
the  third  by  the  main  line,  through  St.  Albans  to  Essex  Junc- 
tion, thence  by  Central  Vermont  down  to  White  River  Junc- 
tion, then  up  through  Wells  River  to  Littleton  or  Bethlehem. 
Arrived  at  the  railway  terminus, — whichever  of  the  two  last- 
named  stations  we  choose  as  our  point  of  approach  to  the 
mountains, — we  transfer  ourselves  to  the  six-horse  stage- 


THE  PROFILE,  OR  “OLD  MAN  OF  THE  MOUNTAIN.” 


coach  which  conveys  us  to  the  Profile  House,  in  the  very  heart 
of  the  Franconia  Notch.  This  hotel  stands  on  a plateau  of 
level  ground  in  the  midst  of  the  great  hills,  and  at  the  very 
foot  of  Eagle  Cliif,  a towering  crag,  which  seems  to  threaten 
the  house  below,  and  takes  its  name  from  the  fact  that  a few 
years  ago  a pair  of  splendid  eagles  made  it  their  home.  The 
view  down  the  Notch,  with  its  sentinel  peaks  on  either  hand, 
is  grand  and  imposing.  Echo  Lake  is  one  of  the  noted  feat- 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK.  273 

iires  of  the  Franconia  Notch,  a diminutive  but  very  deep 
pond,  entirely  environed  by  mountains.  From  its  centre  a 
voice,  the  notes  of  a horn,  or  the  discharge  of  a fire-arm, 
Avill  awake  a perfect  chorus  of  echoes  many  times  repeated. 

Profile  or  Cannon  Mountain  derives  its  names  from  the  re- 
semblance of  a pile  of  rocks  on  its  summit  to  a mounted 
cannon,  2,000  feet  above  the  road,  double  that  height  above 
the  sea  level,  and  directly  opposite  Eagle  Cliff,  forming  the 
western  side  of  the  Notch ; and  from  the  Profile  on  the 
southern  extremity  of  its  crest.  This  “Great  Stone  Face,” 
immortalized'  in  literature  by  Hawthorne,  and  familiar  to  all 
visitors  as  the  “ Old  Man  of  the  Mountain,”  is  eighty  feet  from 
the  point  of  the  chin  to  the  top  of  the  forehead;  and  it  is 
placed  1200  to  1500  feet  above  the  road.  Three  masses  of 
rock  form  this  profile,  which  is  clearly  cut  and  entirely  dis- 
tinct, with  a high,  stern  forehead,  prominent  nose,  lips  just 
parted,  and  a massive  chin.  At  the  foot  of  this  mountain  lies 
the  lovely  little  Profile  Lake,  called  also  the  “ Old  Man’s  Wash 
Bowl.”  Bald  Mountain  is  ascended  from  the  hotel  by  a car- 
riage-road ; and  from  its  summit  a fine  view  is  obtained. 
Mount  Lafayette  is  the  giant  of  this  range,  towering  5,280 
feet  skyward,  and  pyramidal  in  form.  Its  ascent  is  long  and 
tedious,  by  a devious  bridle-path  ; but  the  view  from  its  sum- 
mit, taking  in  the  whole  mountain  range  and  surrounding 
country,  compensates  for  the  fatigue.  Walker’s  Falls,  in  the 
rear  of  the  road,  are  a series  of  mountain  cascades,  leaping 
like  a ribbon  of  silver  down  through  a contracted  gorge. 
The  Basin  is  five  miles  south  of  the  Notch,  and  lies  near  the 
roadside.  It  is  formed  by  the  action  of  the  water  of  the  Pem- 
igewasset,  which  pours  over  a rocky  ledge  into  a hollow  in 
the  solid  granite.  This  hollow,  by  the  incessant  whirling  of 
the  water  and  the  pebbles  which  it  carries  with  it,  has  been 
worn  into  a perfect  bowl,  nearly  circular,  45  feet  in  diameter, 
and  18  feet  deep.  The  clearness  of  the  water  is  such  that  the 
smallest  objects  on  the  bottom  are  clearly  discerned,  though 
its  great  depth  gives  it  a bright  green  tint. 

12* 


274 


TOVRISTS^  HANDBOOK, 


THE  FLUME,  FRANCONIA  NOTCH. 


The  Flume  is  perhaps  the  most  famous,  and  is  certainly  not 
the  least  wonderful,  of  the  curiosities  in  the  Franconia  Moun- 
tains. Imagine  a solid  mass  of  granite,  split  to  the  depth  of 
fifty  feet,  and  the  perpendicular  walls  separated  twenty  feet, 
and  you  have  an  idea  of  the  Flume.  Through  it  pours  a little 
brook ; and  a plank  walk  alongside  enables  the  visitor  to  as- 
cend its  course  several  hundred  feet.  Near  the  upper  end  a 
huge  boulder,  which  evidently  lay  on  the  surface  when  the 
rock  was  riven,  has  fallen  into  the  chasm,  until  the  sides, 
gently  sloping  inward,  have  caught  and  hold  it  suspended  in 
mid-air.  The  Cascade,  below  the  Flume,  is  a waterfall  of 
more  than  600  feet  descent,  gliding  over  the  polished  rock 
like  a sheet  of  molten  silver.  The  Pool  is  an  enlarged  edition 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


27s 


of  the  Basin.  It  is  about  150  feet  wide;  and  the  water  is  40 
feet  deep.  It  is  cut  from  the  solid  granite  bj  the  chisel  of 
Nature.  From  the  top  of  the  rocky  wall  which  surrounds  it, 
its  depth  is  about  150  feet.  The  Harvard  Falls,  also  called 
the  Georgianna  Falls,  are  the  most  remarkable  cascades  in 
the  vicinity.  For  nearly  a mile  they  follow  each  other  down 
the  mountain ; and  the  uppermost  makes  a flying  leap  of  150 
feet  sheer.  Having  thus  ‘‘done”  the  wonders  of  the  Fran- 
conia region,  the  tourist  may  follow  the  valley  of  the  Pemige- 
wasset  down  to  Plymouth,  and  thence  by  rail  to  Lake  Winni- 
piseogee,  or  may  retrace  his  steps  to  Littleton  or  Bethlehem, 
and  thence  by  rail  to  Twin-Mountain  station,  at  the  very  door 
of  the  famous  hotel  of  the  same  name,  203  miles  from  Boston. 

The  Twin  Mountain  House, 

This  first-class  hotel,  built  in  1869-70,  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  a rise  of  ground  on  the  bank  of  the  Ammonoosuc  River, 
commanding  a fine  view  of  the  White  and  Franconia  Moun- 
tains. To  the  right  rises  Mount  Lafayette  in  all  its  grandeur; 
while  to  the  left,  and  distinctly  visible,  is  the  White  Mountain 
range;  and  towering  above  all  is  Mount  Washington.  Being 
centrally  located,  parties  can  visit  many  points  of  interest, 
and  return  the  same  day.  Among  these  are  the  Crawford 
House,  with  its  White  Mountain  Notch,  Mount  Willard,  the 
Willey  House,  and  numerous  cascades.  Mount  Washington 
and  its  railway.  Profile  House,  Littleton,  Waumbek  House, 
and  Bethlehem.  From  this  house  it  is  but  ten  miles  to  the 
Crawford  House  (five  by  rail,  five  by  stage)  ; ten  miles  to 
the  depot  of  the  Mount  Washington  Railway,  where  cars  are 
taken  for  a trip  over  the  famed  rail  line  to  the  crowning  sum- 
mit; 30  miles  to  the  Glen  House,  and  28  miles  to  Gorham,  by 
the  Cherry  Mountain  road.  Parties  visiting  the  mountains 
should  not  fail  of  making  the  ascent  of  Mount  Washington 
by  its  railway,  which  is  a triumph  of  mechanical  skill  and 
engineering.  Thousands  of  persons  are  annually  carried  up 
this  road  with  perfect  ease  and  safety.  Comfortably  seated  in 


TWIN  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE. 


tOtiRIST^^  HANDDdOk. 


^77 


their  cars,  rising  at  the  rate  of  one  foot  in  three,  new  objects 
of  interest  come  before  the  eje.  Villages,  rivers,  lakes,  and 
mountains  continually  burst  upon  the  view  until  the  summit 
is  reached,  when  the  beholder  stands  upon  the  highest  point 
of  land  in  this  country  east  of  the  Mississippi.  Parties  de- 
siring to  descend  the  mountain  on  the  east  side,  by  the  car- 
riage road,  will  find  carriages  in  readiness  for  the  Glen  House 
and  Gorham.  Coaches  run  to  and  from  the  Twin-Mountain 
House  to  all  important  points  about  the  mountains,  and  to 
the  Mount  Washington  Railway.  Leaving  the  house  at  7.30 
in  the  morning,  you  reach  the  summit  at  12  m.  ; returning, 
leave  the  summit  at  3,  p.m.,  and  reach  the  house  at  6.30,  p.m. 
The  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal  Railroad  has  built  a spur- 
track  to  this  house,  with  an  extension  to  the  Fabyan  House. 
Passengers  leaving  Springfield,  Boston,  or  Burlington,  Vt., 
in  the  n^orning,  arrive  at  6.2(5,  p.m.  ; and  those  leaving  Wells 
River  in  the  morning  arrive  here  at  noon.  Passengers  can 
take  the  cars  at  this  house  in  the  morning,  and  reach  Boston, 
New  York,  Newport,  Burlington,  or  Montreal  the  same  day. 
For  the  pleasure  of  the  guests,  the  proprietors  have  provided 
billiards,  bowling,  pleasure-boats,  croquet  grounds,  and  a 
good  band  during  the  season.  Post  and  telegraph  offices  are 
located  in  the  house;  and  horses  and  carriages,  with  ex- 
perienced drivers,  are  furnished  for  parties  when  desired,” 
Those  afflicted  with  “ hay-fever,”  or  “ autumnal  catarrh,”  will 
find  comfort  in  the  fact  that  the  larger  number  of  those  afflicted 
with  this  disease,  who  have  been  here  in  years  past,  bear 
testimony  to  partial,  and  in  most  cases  entire  relief  from  this 
distressing  malady.  Messrs.  A.  T.  and  O.  F.  Barron  are  the 
proprietors.  One  feature  of  the  management  of  the  Messrs. 
Barron  is  worthy  of  note.  A farm  of  twelve  hundred  acres 
near  White  River  Junction,  and  the  old  homestead  farm  at 
Queechee,  Vt.,  supply  vegetables,  milk,  eggs  and  butter  for 
their  houses,  and  guests  may  be  sure  of  always  getting  the 
freshest  and  best  of  farm  and  dairy  products  at  their  table. 


WHITE  MOUNTAIN  RANGE,  FROM  JEFFERSON  HILL. 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


279 


The  Crawford  House. 

The  same  firm  are  also  proprietors  of  the  famous  Crawford 
House,  at  the  head  of  the  White  Mountain  Notch,  the  head- 
quarters of  the  region.  This  splendid  hotel,  newly  furnished, 
and  provided  with  all  the  appliances  of  a modern  resort,  is  so 
placed  as  to  command  from  its  spacious  piazzas  a grand  vista 
down  the  wondrous  White  Mountain  Notch,  and  views  of  the 
summit  of  Mount  Willard,  which  is  reached  by  carriage  road 
from  this  point,  and  of  the  Elephant’s  Head,  a singular  mass 
of  rock,  projecting  from  the  mountain  side,  and  so  perfectly 
formed  that  no  one  needs  to  be  told  what  it  is.  A glistening 
seam  of  white  rock  simulates  the  tusk,  while  the  massive  head, 
pendulous  trunk,  and  huge  ears  are  represented  by  dark  gray 
crags.  From  the  Crawford  House  one  may  ascend  Mount 
Washington  by  bridle-path,  carriage-road,  or  railway,  spend 
the  night  at  the  Mount  Washington,  Summit,  or  Tip  Top 
House,  and  descend  next  day  on  the  other  side  to  the  Glen 
House  ; or  he  may  take  the  stage  coach,  via  Cherry  Mountain, 
over  the  Jefferson  Hills,  from  which  a wonderfully  fine  view 
of  Mount  Washington,  from  a new  standpoint,  is  gained. 
Starr  King’s  most  enthusiastic  descriptions  were  of  this  local- 
ity. From  Jefferson,  a ride  of  20  miles  around  the  base  of 
Mount  Madison  brings  us  to  the  Glen  House ; or,  if  we  pre- 
fer to  make  the  journey  from  the  Crawford  House  by  another 
route,  we  take  the  stage-coach  at  the  door,  and  are  soon 
rattling  down  through  the  world-famous  White  Mountain 
Notch. 

The  White  Mountain  Notch. 

This  is  a gorge,  or  rift,  through  the  mountains,  which 
affords  a water  course  for  the  Saco  river.  On  either  hand 
the  mountains  tower  to  the  height  of  2,000  feet;  and  the  car- 
riage road  is  cut  from  the  very  mountain  side,  clinging  as  it 
were  to  the  verge  of  the  steep  declivity,  while  far  below  the 
river  brawls  and  babbles  over  its  stony  bed.  In  one  place, 
called  the  “ Gateway,”  the  Notch  is  but  22  feet  wide.  An  ex- 


58o 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK. 


tension  of  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburgh  Railroad,  up  through 
this  Notch,  opposite  the  carriage  path,  is  in  progress,  and  will 
probably  be  open  to  travel  during  this  season  (1875.)  On  the 
way  down  the  Notch  we  pass  the  Flume,  a narrow  sluiceway, 
worn  into  the  solid  rock  of  the  mountain’s  side,  down  which 
courses,  with  the  swiftness  of  light,  a mountain  stream.  A 
little  farther  on  we  see  the  Silver  Cascade.  This  is  one  of  the 
most  charming  waterfalls  imaginable,  and  may  be  traced  like 
a thread  of  silver  winding  down  over  the  glassy  rock  from  800 
feet  above  the  road.  Still  farther  down,  between  Mount 


“ GATE  OF  THE  NOTCH/^ 


TOUnrSTS^  itaj^dbooic  281 

Webster  and  the  Willey  Mountain,  we  see  at  the  right  of  the 
road  the  historic  building,  the  Willey  House. 

Here,  on  the  28th  of  August,  1826,  the  Willey  Family,  nine 
in  number,  alarmed  by  the  noise  and  sight  of  a terrific  ava- 
lanche coming  straight  down  the  mountain-side  towards  the 
house,  fled,  but  were  overtaken  and  buried  by  the  rushing 
mass.  A huge  rock  back  of  the  house  divided  the  earth-slide, 


PEABODY  RIVER  AND  MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


and  saved  the  house.  It  has  been  greatly  enlarged,  and  is  now 
a place  of  entertainment.  Sparkling  Cascade  and  Sylvan 
Glade  Cascade  are  pretty  waterfalls  below  the  Willey  House. 


2S2 


TOURISTS'  HANDBOOK, 


Leaving  the  Saco  Valley,  below  Sawyer’s  Rock,  we  turn  to  thd 
east,  and  cross  the  Ellis  River,  getting  a view  of  the  Goodrich 
Falls,  the  most  lofty  and  imposing  cataract  in  the  mountains. 
A mile  farther  on  Jackson  is  reached,  where  are  some  very 
beautiful  cascades  on  Wild-Cat  Brook.  The  views  of  the 
mountains  are  very  grand  from  this  point.  From  Jackson  we 
proceed  nearly  north,  up  the  Ellis  River,  and  through  the 
Pinkham  Notch,  passing  by  the  way  the  beautiful  Glen  Ellis 
Fall,  where  the  water  of  the  river  pours  down  over  a precipice 
85  feet  high,  making  a perfect  arch  of  foamy  spray;  past  the 
lovely  Crystal  Cascade,  about  the  same  height,  and  aptly  de- 
scribed as  an  inverted  plume ; past  the  Emerald  Pool,  with 
its  quiet  beauty;  Thompson’s  Falls,  and  the  Garnet  Pools, 
and  soon  arrive  at  the  Glen  House.  This  is  one  of  the  largest 
hotels  in  New  England,  having  about  400  rooms,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  complete  and  luxurious  in  all  departments. 

From  this  point  teams  are  provided  for  trips  to  the  Crystal 
Cascade,  Glen  Ellis,  Emerald  and  Garnet  Pools,  the  Imp 
Mountain,  Tuckerman’s  Ravine,  — with  its  gloomy  depth  and 
masses  of  eternal  snow, — West  Branch,  Mount  Carter,  and, 
grandest  of  all,  the  ascent  of  Mount  Washington.  The  road, 
which  was  completed  to  the  summit  and  opened  for  travel  in 
1861,  is  a smooth  and  well-built  macadamized  turnpike.  The 
average  grade  is  12  feet  in  100.  There  is  no  difficulty  in  the 
ascent,  and  no  more  discomfort  than  in  the  same  amount  of 
carriage-riding  upon  any  of  the  mountain  roads.  The  car- 
riages are  easy  and  comfortable,  and  have  experienced  drivers 
capable  of  giving  information.  These  carriages  are  accompa- 
nied by  baggage-wagons  ; and  at  the  summit  of  the  Mountain 
we  may  take  the  railroad  down  to  the  White  Mountain  Notch. 

Climbing  the  Mountain. 

Having  passed  through  the  forest  that  covers  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  the  road  emerges  on  the  mountain  side  near  the 
‘‘Ledge.”  Clay,  Jefferson,  Adams,  and  Madison  are  seen  to 
the  best  advantage  from  here ; and  Starr  King  calls  these  moun- 


tOt/RISTS^  HANbBOOk 


283 


tains,  seen  from  this  point,  ‘‘Nature’s  struggle  against  petri- 
fication, the  earth’s  cry  for  air ! ” Rising  from  the  Ledge,  the 
road  overlooks  the  valley  of  the  Ellis  and  Peabody  Rivers,  and 
the  Saco  Valley,  famed  in  song.  Plateau  after  plateau  does  the 
road  reach,  each  one,  as  we  look  up  to  it,  seeming  to  be  the 
last.  Finally,  after  about  three  hours’  ride,  we  reach  the  sum- 
mit, 6,300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

“The  first  effect  upon  standing  on  the  summit  of  Mount 
Washington  is  a bewildering  of  the  senses  at  the  extent  and 
lawlessness  of  the  spectacle.  It  is  as  though  we  were  looking 
upon  a chaos.  The  land  is  tossed  into  a tempest.  But  in  a 
few  moments  we  become  accustomed  to  this,  and  begin  to  feel 
the  joy  of  turning  round  and  sweeping  a horizon  line  that  in 
parts  is  drawn  outside  New  England.  The  diameter  of  this 
circle  is  250  miles;  and  you  are  at  the  central  point.  As  far 
as  you  can  see,  in  every  direction,  are  mountains  holding  up 
their  faces  to  be  kissed  by  the  sun.  There  are  lakes,  rivers, 
villages,  and  roads  no  broader  than  a ribbon,  stretching  away 
so  many  miles  that  it  rhakes  one  tired ; but  the  warm  blue 
mountains,  chain  upon  chain,  are  over  and  above  all.  Upon 
these  things  do  you  look  down  ; and  you  can  look  up  — only 
at  heaven.” 


North  Conway,  and  its  Beauties. 

From  the  Glen  House,  a splendid  drive  down  the  Pinkham 
Notch  and  the  Saco  Valley  brings  us  to  North  Conway, 
long  famed  as  a summer  resort  and  a favorite  haunt  of  ar- 
tists, — the  most  gifted  pencils  in  the  country  having  trans- 
ferred its  charming  scenes  to  their  canvas.  North  Conway 
lies  just  at  the  portal  to  the  mountains,  whose  snow-capped 
peaks  form  the  back-ground  for  the  most  delightful  views. 
The  Conway  Intervale  stretches  away  on  either  hand,  a broad 
expanse  of  richest  green,  threaded  by  the  sparkling  Saco 
River.  The  beautiful  village,  nestled  at  the  foot  of  grand  old 
Kiarsarge,  is  a pleasing  feature,  with  its  neat  white  houses, 
well-kept  roads,  and  general  air  of  thrift.  The  numerous 
hotels  and  large  boarding-houses  are  taxed  to  their  utmost  to 
accommodate  their  crowds  of  summer  visitors  from  the  cities. 
The  principal  hotel  is  the  Kiarsarge  House,  kept  for  many 


284 


TOURISTS^  HANDBOOK. 


seasons  past  by  Thompson  & Sons.  This  long  famous  house 
was  greatly  enlarged  in  1872,  and  fitted  up  in  unsurpassed 
style.  The  Intervale  House,  kept  by  Mudgett  & Son,  is  located 
under  the  slope  of  Mount  Pequaket,  or  Kiarsarge,  is  within  a 


beautiful  enclosure  of  hills  and  surrounded  by  attractive 
points,  easily  reached  by  short  walkt  from  the  hotel  The 
buildings  are  comparatively  new,  and  it  will  be  found  to  be  a 
centre  of  attractions  for  those  who  tarry  at  this  point.  It  has 
about  100  sleeping  rooms ; has  been  newly  painted  through- 


TOURISTS’  HANDBOOK. 


285 


out,  and  partly  new  furnished;  has  a nice  hall  for  parties  and 
hops,  etc.  The  house  is  within  a few  rods  of  the  Intervale 
Station  of  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad,  to  which 
the  Eastern  Road  also  runs  its  cars.  The  other  hotels  in  the 
village  are  the  North  Conway  House,  M.  B.  Mason,  propri- 
etor; the  Sunset  Pavilion,  kept  by  M.  L.  Mason ; Mason’s 
Hotel,  F.  H.  Mason,  proprietor;  McMillan  House,  by  J. 
McMillan;  the  Washington  House,  J.  M.  Gibson,  proprietor; 
the  Eastman  House,  kept  by  C.  E.  Evans.  There  are, 
besides,  many  boarding-houses  for  summer  guests.  The 
‘‘  Ledges,”  bold  granite  blutfs,  nearly  1000  feet  above  the 
Saco,  with  the  deep  chasm  known  as  the  Cathedral ; Di- 
ana’s Bath,  filled  with  limpid  water,  sparkling  like  crystal ; 
Artists’  Falls,  in  a shadowy  glen  of  picturesque  loveli- 
ness ; Echo  Lake,  at  the  foot  of  Mote  Mountain,  and  the 
“White  Horse,”  — are  a few  of  the  objects  of  special  in- 
terest in  the  vicinity  of  North  Conway.  The  queenly  Kiar- 
sarge,  a symmetrical  paramid  2,367  feet  high,  is  seen  to  the 
north-east,  and  to  the  west,  Mote  Mountain,  with  Chocorua’s 
jagged  peak  in  the  distance;  while  the  curves  of  Rattlesnake 
Ridge,  and  the  imperial  domes  of  Mount  Washington  and  the 
adjacent  mountains,  complete  the  framing  of  this  valley,  the 
Mecca  of  thousands  of  pilgrims  everyyear.  Here  is  the  beau- 
tiful station  of  the  Conway  Division  of  the  Eastern  Railroad, 
where  we  may  take  an  express  train  direct  for  Boston,  via 
Great  Falls  and  Portsmouth,  with  Pullman  cars.  The  Port- 
land and  Ogdensburg  Road  also  has  a station  near  by,  whence 
those  who  desire  may  proceed  to  Portland  and  the  East. 


FIRST-CLASS  HOTELS. 


American  House St.  Albans,  Vt. 

H.  PiERCK  & Son,  Proprietors. 

American  House Montpelier,  Vt. 

Chester  Clark,  Proprietor. 

American  House Burlington,  Vt. 

H.  H.  Howe,  Proprietor. 

American  House Fitchburg,  Mass. 

E.  DeWolf  & Co.,  Proprietors. 

American  Hotel Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 

Wm.  Bennett,  Proprietor. 

Bishop’s  Hotel Montpelier,  Vt. 

H.  H.  PisHOP,  Proprietor. 

Berwick  Hotel Rutland,  Vt. 

C.  F.  Richardson,  Proprietor. 

Brattleboro’  House Brattleboro’,  Vt. 

H.  A.  Kilburn,  Manager. 

Congress  Hall Albany,  N.  Y. 

Adam  Blake,  Proprietor. 

Congress  Hall Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 

Hathorn  & Southgate,  Proprietors. 

Clarendon  Hotel Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 

C.  E.  Leland,  Proprietor. 

Columbian  Hotel Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 

D.  A.  Dodge,  Proprietor. 

Clifton  House Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y. 

Colburn  & McOmber,  Proprietors. 

Crawford  House Carroll,  N.  H. 

A.  T.  & O.  F.  Barron,  Proprietors.^ 

Ft.  William  Henry  Hotel.  .Lake  George  (Caldwell),  N.Y. 
T.  Roessle  & Son,  Proprietors. 

1 


HOTELS— Continued. 


FouquEx’s  Hotel Plattsburg,  N.  Y. 

Smith  & Martin,  Proprietor*. 

Grand  Union  Hotel Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 

J.  H.  Brislin  & Co.,  Managers. 

Holden  House Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y 

C.  H.  Holden,  Proprietor. 

International  Hotel Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y. 

Mason’s  Hotel North  Conway,  N.  H. 

F.  H,  Mason,  Proprietor. 

Martin’s  Hotel Saranac  Lake,  Adirondacks,  N.  Y. 

W.  F.  Martin,  Proprietor. 

Monteagle  Hotel Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y. 

Alexander  & Terrill,  Proprietors. 

Magog  House ....Sherbrooke,  P. 

F.  P.  Buck,  Proprietor. 

Alarrin  House Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 

H.  A.  Qdackenbush  & Co.,  Proprietors. 

Ottawa  Hotel Montreal,  P. 

Browne  & Perley,  Proprietors. 

Pavilion  Hotel Wolfeborough,  N.  H. 

A.  L.  Howe,  Proprietor, 

Pemigewasset  House Plymouth,  N.  H. 

C.  M.  Morse,  Proprietor. 

Russell  House East  Milton,  Mass. 

James  M.  Russell,  Proprietor. 

Rockwell  House Glens  Falls,  N.  Y. 

Rockwell  Brothers,  Proprietors. 


Stevens  House Vergennes,  Vt. 

S.  S.  Gaines,  Proprietor. 

St.  Regis  Lake  House.  .St.  Regis  Lake,  Adirondacks,  N.  Y. 
Paul  Smith,  Proprietor. 


St.  Louis  Hotel Quebec,  P. 

W.  Russell  & Son,  Proprietors. 

Twin  Mountain  House .Carroll,  N H. 

A.  T.  & O.  F.  Barron,  Proprietors. 

IJnited  States  Hotel.... .Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 

Hon.  James  M.  Marvin,  Proprietor. 


Union  Hotel Cuttingsville,  Vt. 

H.  Todd,  Proprietor. 

Van  Ness  House Burlington,  Vt. 

Barber  & Ferguson,  Proprietors. 

Weldon  House St.  Albans,  Vt. 

Thomas  Lavender,  Proprietor. 

Waverly  House Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y. 

Major  W.  J.  Riggs,  Proprietor. 


INDEX  TO  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Lake  Shore  and  Michigan  Souflhern  Railway,  . . 4 

Adriondack  Company’s  Railrogid,  ....  5 

Chicago,  Milwaukee  & St.  Paul  Railway,  ...  6 

Michigan  Central  & Great  Western  Railway,  . • 7 

Montreal  & Boston  Air  Line,  . . . . • ^ 

St.  Lawrence  & Saguenay  Line, 9 

Quebec  & Gulf  Ports  Steamship  Co.,  . . . . lo 

Eastern  & Maine  Central  Line,.  . . . • • 

Chicago,  Burlington  & Quincy  Railroad,  . . . i2 

Congress  and  Empire  Springs,  . . . . • ^3 

Ottawa  Hotel,  ^4 

Monteagle  Hotel, ^5 

St.  Louis  Hotel, 

Eagle  Hotel, . . . i7 

Brattleboro  House, 

Bellevue  House, ^9 

Magog  House, 20 

Congress  Hall,  k 21 

Rollstone  House,  f * * 

Boston  Daily  Globe,  .......  22 

Boston,  Concord,  Montreal  & White  Mountains  R R.,  23 

Bray  & Hayes,  1 

Boston  Courier,  ) 


3 


Labe  Sluie  asl  iehip  Soulka  lailway. 

The  Great  DoubleT rack  Route 

Prom  BOSTON  and  NEW  YOEK 

To  CHICAGO,  via  BUPPALO. 


The  only  Line  connecting  with  the 


NEW  YORK  CENTRAL  AND  ERIE  RAILWAYS 


Running  Through  Cars  without  Transfer  of  Baggage. 


Sk  Tmias  1 

ItavG  iiffal 

LV 

DAILY  FOR 

CLEVELAND,  TOLEDO,  CHICAGO  AND  8T.  LOUIS, 

WITHOUT  CHANGE. 


A Ijdke  Shore  Palace  Sleeping  Car  runs  between  Niagara  Falls 
and  Chicago,  via  Fast  ^Buffalo  (daily,  Sundays  excepted),  leaving  Niagara 
Falls  11.33  A.  M.,  and  accompanies  the  Chicago  tram  leaving  East  Bulfalo,  12.15 
P.  M.,  arriving  Chicago,  8.20  A.  M. 


Only  one  Change  of  Cars  between  BUFFALO  and  ST.  JOSEPH, 
KAHSAS  CITY,  LEAVEISTWOBTH,  OMAHA 
and  ALL  POINTS  WEST  and 
SOUTHWEST. 


SECURE  TICKETS  BY  THIS  FAVORITE  ROUTE. 

For  Sale  at  all  Principal  Offices  in  the  East. 

Sections  secured  in  Wagner  Oars,  Boston  to  Chicago,  at  the 
Company’s  Ofidce,  No.  210  Washington  St.,  (Old  State  House,) 
and  on  application  to  Wagner’s  Agents. 

JAS.  S.  SMITH,  Agent,  J.  A.  BURCH,  Gen’l  Eastern  Agent, 

210  Washington  St*,  Boston,  Buffalo,  N,  Y, 

CHAS.  PAINE,  Genaral  Sup’t,  CLEVELAND,  OHIO, 

W.  W.  RUGGLES,  Gen’l  Trav.  Agent  for  Mass,  and  Northern  New  England, 
Boston,  Mass. 

W.  A.  CROMWELL,  Gen’l  Trav.  Ag’t  for  East’n  New  England  and  Provinces^ 
Boston,  Massi 


4 


^(lii'ffiiitafft  <|4m|witjt'4  ltailt|()ai(. 


FEOM  SARATOGA  SPEINGS, 


HADLEY,  (LUZERHE,)  THURMAH,  (Station  for  WAR- 
RENSBURG  and  LAKE  GEORGE,)  RIVERSIDE, 
AKD  NORTH  CREEK, 

rOEMING  THE 

MOST  DIRECT  RAILROAD  ROUTE 

TO  THE 

yALLEY  OF  THE  jJpPEI\_  j^UDSON, 

-And.  tlie  ‘Wilderness. 


Express  Trains  leave  Saratoga  Springs  on  arrival  of  morning  and 
mid-day  (N.  Y.  Special)  trains  from  the  south. 

Connections  are  made  at  TJmrman  'with  a First-Class  Stage 
Line  to  Lake  George. 

The  distance  hy  Stage,  (9  miles),  Through  Fare  and  Time  being  the 
same  as  by  the  old  route  via  Glen’s  Falls.  This  route  affords 

New  and  Far  More  Picturesque  and  Delightful  Scenery 

Than  any  other  route  from  Saratoga. 

Also,  at  Riverside  with  Stages  for  Chester,  Pottersville,  and 
the  Steamboat  on  Schroon  Lake. 

Also,  at  North  Creek  (from  morning  Train)  with  Stages  for 
Warburn’s,  {Indian  Lakei)  Jackson’s,  {Cedar  River i)  Wakeley’s 
{Cedar  Falls,)  and  the  new  Hotel  at  Blue  Mountain  Lake,  29  miles 
distant,  the  most  desirable  rendezvous  and  starting  point  from 
which,  to  reach  Raquette  Lake,  and  the  Heart  of  The  Great 
Forest. 

C.  E.  nUEKEE,  C.  m BJLZLAED, 

General  Ticket  Agent.  Superintendent 


6 


3FI. -A.  I Xi ’1717- A -ST, 


THE  GREAT  THROUGH  LINE  bet^pen 

Chicago,  New  York,  New  England,  the  Canadas, 

AND 

All  Sastern  and  ^outliern  Points, 

AND  THE  GREAT  NORTHWEST. 

Connecting  in  Chicago  with  all  Eastern  and  Southern  Lines. 
Chicago  Depot  Corner  Canal  and  West  Madison  Sts.  Horse 
Cars  and  Stage  Lines  for  all  pants  of  the  City  constantly  passing. 
Chicago  City  Offices  61  and  -63  Clark  Street. 

Milwaukee  Depot  Corner  Reed  and  South  Water  Sts.  Horse 
Cars  and  Omnibus  Lines  running  regularly  therefrom  to  the  principal 
parts  of  the  City. 

City  Ticket  Office  : — 400  Ea^  Water  St.  cor.  Wisconsin  Street. 
— 

TUB  ONLY  TLLROTM^  LINE  BETWEEN 

Chicago,  Milwaukee,  St  Paul  and  Minneapolis. 


It  traverses  a finer  country,  with  grander  scenery,  and  passes 
through  more-  business  centres  and  pleasure  resorts,  than  any  other 
Northwestern  Line. 

The  Only  Railway  Line  along  the  Valley  of 

THE  XJHEEIl  MISSISSIEEI  HIVEH, 
AND  THE  SHORE  OF  LAKE  PEPIN, 

Also  via  Madison,  Prairie  dn  Chien,  McGregor,  Austin  and  Owatonna. 

THROUGH  PALACE  COACHES  AND  ' SLEEPING  CARS  OF  THE  BEST, 

AND  TKACK  PEKFECX. 

B^*Connecting  at  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis,  with  the  several  lines 
centering  at  those  points. 

St.  Paul  Depot  Corner  of  Jackson  and  Levee  Streets. 

City  Office  118  East  Jackson  Street,  corner  of  Third  Street. 

A.  V.  H.  CARPENTER,  Gren.  Pass,  and  Ticket  Agent,  Milwaukee- 

BOSTON  OFFICE:  1 Court  SU,  E.  L.  MILL,  Agent. 


BUFFALO,  SUSPEJYSIOJ^  BRIDGE, 


AND 


4:  Through  Express  Trains  Daily  to  Chioago, 

Pullman  and  Wagner’s  luxurious  Drawing-Room,  Hotel  and  Palace  Sleeping 
Cars  run  on  all  Through  Express  Trains  over  this  Line,  with 

oiiif  aiE  eiAiei  0f  eiBS  f e01  B0Sf0i  m (giieiif. 


THIS  IS  THE 

SHORTEST,  QUICKEST  and  mqsT  DESIRABLE  LINE 

BETWEEN  THE 

NEW  ENGLAND  STATES 

AND 

Chicago,  Milwaukee,  St.  Paul, 

AND  THE  PACIFIC  COAST. 


Passengers  'purchasing  their  tickets  by  this  route  are  allowed  to  stop  off  and 
resume  their  journey  at  pleasure,  thus  affording  them  an  opportunity  of 
witnessing  the  Greatest  Natural  wonder  in  America,  the 

FALLS  AND  SCENELY  OF  NIAGARA. 

Baggage  CHecked.  Tlirongli  to  all  Boints  W^est. 
Be  sure  and  ask  for  Tickets  via 

The  Great  Western  and  Michigan  Central  Railways^ 

Which  are  sold  at  all  principal  offices  east  of  Suspension  Bridge, 

A.  J.  HARLOW,  J.  Q.  A.  BEAN, 

Eastern  Passenger  Agent,  Gen’l  Eastern  Agent, 

201  Washington  St.|  Bo  ton.  349  Broadwayi  New  York. 
7 


THE  GREAT  NORTHERN  ROUTE  FOR  TOURISTS 
AND  PLEASURE  SEEKERS. 


THE  NEW 


—COMPOSED  OF  THE— 

Boston,  Concord  & Montreal  R.  R.,  Concord  to  Wells  River, 

Passumpsic  R.  R.,  Wells  River  to  Newport,  Vt., 

South-Eastern  Railway,  Newport  to  St.  Johns,  P.  Q» 

Will  run  2 FAST  EXPRESS  TRAINS, 

Composed  of  NEW  AND  ELEGANT  CARS  provided  with 
all  modern  improvements, 

From  BOSTON  to  MONTREAL, 

Where  connection  is  made  with  Grand  Trunk  Railway  for  the  West. 


Entire  Trains,  with  Pullman  Cars  attached,  run  from  Boston  to  Montreal 
without  change,  and  only  one  change  to  Chicago.  No  route  from  Boston  presents 
such  magnificent  scenery,  and  Passengers  by  this  Line  travel  through  the  Para- 
dise of  this  Continent, 

A continuous  and  most  charming  Panorama  of  River,  Mountain,  Valley  and 
Lake  Scenery  will  entertain  the  traveler  for  a distance  of  250  miles,  including 
the  grand  views  of 

IjAKB  winnipesavkbe, 

THE  WHITE  MOUNTAIN  EANGE, 

PASSUMPSIC  JtlVEM  VALLEY, 

CMYSTAL  LAKE, 

AND  THE 

ROMANTIC  LAKE  MEMPHREMAGOO. 

o 

Trains  stop  30  minutes  for  meals  at  the  Pemigewasset  House,  Plymouth, 
N.  H.,  and  the  Memphremagog  House,  Newport,  Vt. 

General  Office, 

2-<LO  TT^-A-SHIlNTGrTOTU-  STHEET, 

(Old  Number  94.] 

GUST.  LIVE,  Gen’l  Agent. 

8 


0t.  L(kwi^er\6e  ^k^tLei\ky 

LINE  OF  STEAMERS, 

PLYING  BETWEEN 


— QUEBEC,  ^ 

THE 

S^O-XJELTJ^'Z', 

AND  THE 

'Watering  Places  of  the  lower  St.  Lawrence, 

IS  COMPOSED  OF  THE 

First-Class  Sea-Going  Passenger  Steamers, 

“SAGUENAY',” 

“ST.  LAWIIEAEE,” 

and  “UNION.” 


^ ACCOMMODATIONS  FIRST-CLASS.  ^ 

CHARGES  MODERATE. 

Tickets  for  sale  at  all  Principal  Ticket  Offices  in  tlie  States  and 
Canada;  and  at  the  Office  of  the  Company,  opposite  St.  Louis 
Hotel,  Quebec,  or  St.  Andrews  Wharf. 

For  further  information  apply  to 

STEVENSON  ^5  LEVE,  General  Agents,  A.  CABOUSY, 

BOSTON:  240  Washington  Street.  Secretary. 

MONTBEAL ; 202  St,  James  Street. 


9 


A GREAT  ATTRACTION 

To  Tourists  and  Pleasure  Travelers^ 

IS  THE  EOUTE  OF  THE^ 

Quebec  and  Gidf  Ports 

STEAMSHIP  CO. 

Whose  commodious  Steamers  proceed  from  Quebec  down  the 
majestic  River  and  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  in  sight  of  the  grandest 
scenery  and  many  historical  points,  calling  at  numerous  noted  sea- 
bathing resorts  on  the  south  shore  of  the  Gulf,  giving  the  sports- 
man and  angler  a chance  to  visit  the  most  far-famed  rivers,  bays 
and  inlets,  which  swarm  with  trout  and  salmon. 

The  Steamers  connect  at  Point  du  Chene  (Shediac)  with  the 
Intercolonial  Railroad  for  St.  John,  N.  B.,  thence  by  cars  and 
steamers  to 

FORT  LAMB  AJVD  BOSTON, 

and  at  Pictou  with  Intercolonial  Railroad  for  Halifax,  N.  S., 
connecting  there  with  Railroad  or  Steamer  lines  for  St.  John, 
Portland  and  Boston.  This  is*  the  route  to  CHARLOTTE- 
TOWN and  PiH.^CE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 

. . , Yidket^, 

From  New  York,  Boston,  or  other  points  in  New  England,  to 
Montreal,  Quebec,  thence  via  Gulf  Port  Steamers  to  Shediac,  N.  B., 
Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I.,  Pictou,  S.,  St.  John,  N.  B.,  Halifax, 
N.  S.,  passing  through  all  points  of  interest  in  the  maritime 
provinces,  and  returning  by  either  rail  or  steamer  to  Portland, 
Boston  and  New  York  ; or  vice  versa. 

For  sale  in  New  York,  Boston,  and  principal  points  in  New 
England,  at  all  Offices  selling  Excursion  Tickets. 

Ask  Ticket  Agent  for  Gulf  ports  Steamer  circular,  which  will 
give  you  all  the  particular  information,  and  map  of  route. 

STEVENSON  & LEVE,  Passenger  Ag’ts.  W.  MOORE,  Manager. 


GENERAL  OFFICE,  Opposit;^  St.  Louis  Hotel,  QUEBEC. 

Montreal,  - - SOS  St.  James  St. 

BOSTON, 24:0  {old  ijk^ber,  94)  Washington  Street. 

10 


i ; 


RAILROAD  LINE. 

THE  GEEAT  THEOUGH  EOUTE 

TO  TKCEl 


S)tate  of  Maine  & M ar  it  ime  Provinces, 


ALSO  TtiEJ 

Shortest  and  popular  route  via  the  Sea  Shore,  Hampton  and 
Rye  Beaches,  and  Isles  of  Shoals,  to  Wolfboro,  North  Conway, 
and  White  Mountains. 


The  only  direct  route  to  the  RANGELEYS  and  MOOSEHEAD 
LAKE,  the  GREAT  PISHING  RESORTS. 


CONNECTIONvS  are  also  made  at  Portland  with  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway,  for  Gorham,  the  Canadas,  and  the  West,  also  with 
all  the  Steamboat  Lines  to  Mount  Desert,  the  coast  of  Maine  and 
the  Maritime  Provinces. 


NO  CHANGE  OF  CARS 

Between  Boston  and  North  Conway,  or  Boston  and  Bangor,  and 
but  one  to  St.  John,  N.  B. 

PULLMAN  PALACE  CABS  are  in  nse  on  this  Line, 


No  other  line  offers  such  facilities  or  possesses  such  advantages, 
to  the  great  pleasure  resorts  of  New  England.  All  the  modern 
improvements  are  in  use  on  this  road. 

©EA-TS  or  BEHTHS  TIN  CA.X1S 

Can  be  secured  by  letter  or  telegraph,  at  the 

Boston  Offioe,  280  Washington  Street. 

Before  purchasing  Tickets  refer  to  Maps,  Advertisements,  etc., 
of  this  Company,  to  be  obtained  at  the  Ticket  Offices  in  New  York, 
Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Washington,  Montreal,  Quebec,  and  White 
Mountains,  also  of  the  principal  Ticket  Agents  in  the  United 
States  and  Maritime  Provinces. 

CIKAS.  F.  HATCH,  Geii’l  Haiiag-er. 
aEO.  BACHELDER,  Sup’t  E.  R.  R.  PAYSON  TUCKER,  Sup’t  M.  0.  R.  R. 
0S:0.  F.  FIELH,  GeiPl  Pass.  Ageut. 

11 


THIS  IS  AN  ADVERTISEMENT 

AND  IS  PAID  FOR  AS  SUCH, 


BUT  NOTWITHSTANDING 


It  is  literally^true,  as  thousands  can  and  will 
testify,  that  the 


R A.IIL.IRO  A.!) 

Has  the  SMOOTHEST  AND  BEST  TRACK,  and  the  BEST  AND  MOST 
COMPLETE  EQUIPMENT  of  all  roads  in  the  West,  and  has 
NO  SUPERIOR  in  any  part  of  the  country. 

It  is  the  Favorite  with  the  Traveling  Public, 

It  is  the  only  line  to 

Running  the  justly  Celebrated  and  most  Comfortable 

DININa  nARR=^ 

And  offers  the  very  best  route  to  all  points  in 

KANSAS,  C01.0RAK0, 

NEW  IY1EXI4!0,  IOWA, 

NEBRASKA,  JRISSOIJRI  ANR  TEXAS. 

No  Passenger  will  ever  regret  having  chosen  this  Route. 
TICZETS  via  this  Line  FOB  SALE  AT  ALL  THE  TICEET  OFFICES  m THE  EAST. 
COMPANY’S  OFFICES; 

317  Broadway,  New  York.  222  Washington  St«,  Boston. 

D.  W.  HITCHCOCK,  E.  P.  RIPLEY, 

Gen’l  Pass.  Agent,  CHICAGO.  Gen’l  Eastern  Pass.  Agent,  BOSTON. 
12 


1^90- 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS, 

IVEW  YOUK. 


18^5. 


THE 

CONGRESS  and  EMPIRE 

SPRING  WATERS, 


Si‘e  tl\e  Se^t  i{eii\edie^  known. 


Tliey  are  purely  natural  mineral  waters,  cathartic,  alterative  and 
slightly  stimulating  and  tonic  in  their  effects,  without  producing  the 
debility  that  usually  attends  a course  of  medicine. 

They  are  used  with  marked  success  in  Affections  of  the  Liver  and 
Kidneys ; and  for  Dyspepsia,  Gout,  Chronic  Constipation,  and  Cuta- 
neous Diseases  they  are  unrivalled* 

They  are  especially  beneficial  as  general  preservatives  of  the  tone  of 
the  stomach  and  purity  of  the  blood,  and  are  powerful  preventatives 
of  Fevers  and  Bilious  Complaints. 

These  waters  should  be  taken  in  the  morning  before  breakfast— one 
pint  being  the  usual  draught— and  their  use  may  be  continued  daily 
for  months,  with  the  most  agreeable  results,  and  without  reaction,  or 
any  necessity  of  increasing  the  quantity  taken. 

Congress  Water  being  the  most  popular  of  the  Saratoga  waters, 
is  largely  counterfeited.  Every  genuine  bottle  has  the  letter 
with  the  name  of  the  undersigned  Proprietors,  and  the  words  Con- 
gress Water  raised  upon  the  glass. 

The  genuine  Empire  Water  may  be  similarly  distinguished,  the 
letter  and  words  Empire  Water,  being  substituted  for  those 

above  named. 

Purchasers  should  require  these  brands  and  marks. 

None  Genuine  sold  on  draught. 

Orders  by  mail  receive  prompt  attention.  Address 

CONGRESS  & EMPIRE  SPRING  CO., 

94  CHAMBERS  STREET, 
NBW  YOJtK. 


Or,  SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  N.  Y. 


13 


OTTAWA  HOTEL, 

MO]VTllEA.X^. 


C.  S.  BROWNE,  J.  Q.  PERLEY,  Proprietors. 


THIS  well  known  and  popular  Hotel  is  situated  on  St. 
Tames  Street,  the  principal  business  street  of  the  city,  and  is 
near  the  Post  Office,  Banks,  Theatre,  and  all  the  Public  Build- 
ings, and  has  ample  accommodation  for  400  guests. 

The  Ottawa  Hotel  covers  the  entire  space  of  ground  run- 
ning between  St.  James  and  Notre  Dame  Streets,  and  has  two 
beautiful  fronts.  The  House  has  been  thoroughly  Refitted  and 
Furnished  with  every  regard  to  comfort  and  Luxury — has  hot  and 
cold  water,  with  baths  and  closets  on  each  floor.  The  aim  has 
been  to  make  this  the 

Most  Unexceptional  First-Class  Hotel  in  Montreal. 

The  proprietors  respectfully  assure  their  patrons  that  no 
exertions  will  be  spared  to  make  this  Hotel 

A Comfori^lils  Home  for  tlio  Traveling  FuUic. 

Carriages,  with  attentive  drivers,  may  be  had  at  all  times 
by  application  at  the  office. 

Coaches  will  be  found  at  the  Railway  Depot  and  Steamboat 
Landings,  on  the  arrival  of  the  several  Trains  and  Steamers. 

Montreal  Telegraph  Office  in  the  House. 

14 


Montea^le  House, 


susFEHsi  smi,  mm,  ii.i 


This  House  is  now  open  for  the  reception  of  its  patrons  and 
the  traveling  public,  under  an  entire  new  management.  Having 
been  refitted  and  entirely  renovated  it  commands  the  attention  of 
parties  visiting  Niagara.  The  rooms  command  a fine,  uninterrupt- 
ed view  of  Niagara  Falls,  the  two  Suspension  Bridges,  Whirlpool, 
and  Whirlpool  Rapids.  In  connection  with  the  house  are  Mineral 
Sulpher  Springs  and  Bfaths,  making  it  desirable  for  those  requiring 
tonic  and  cutaneous  treatment. 

Free  Omnibus  to  and  from  all  trains. 

Terms,  ^3.00  per  day. 

Special  inducements  to  parti||S  remaining  any  length  of  time. 
Parties  intending  to  stop  at  th»  Monteagle,  should  have  their  bag- 
gage checked  to  Suspension  Bridge. 

ALEXANDER  & TERRILL,  Proprietors, 

15 


ST.  LOUIS  HOTEJ^ 

ST,  LOUIS  STREET,' 

-^Q,  XJ  E B E O 


WILLIS  ETTSSELL,  - - - - Proprietor. 


This  Hotel,  which  is  unrivalled  for  size,  style  and  locality,  in  Que- 
bec, is  open  through  the  year  for  pleasure  and  business  travel. 

It  is  eligibly  situated  near  to,  and  surrounded  by  the  most  delight- 
ful and  fashionable  promenades,— the  Governor’s  Garden,  the  Citadel, 
the  Esplanade,  the  Place  d’Armes,  and  Durham  Terrace— which  fur- 
nish the  splendid  views  and  magnificent  scenery  for  which  Quebec  is 
so  justly  celebrated,  and  which  is  unsurpassed  in  any  part  of  the 
world. 

The  proprietor,  in  returning  thanks  for  the  very  liberal  patronage 
hitherto  enjoyed,  informs  the  public  that  this  hotel  has  been  enlarged 
and  refitted,  and  can  now  accommodate  five  hundred  visitors ; and 
assures  them  that  nothing  will  be  wanting  on  his  part  that  will  con- 
duce to  the  comfort  and  enjoyment  of  his  guests. 

16 


OFJPOSIXE  TUB  CAFITOL  GrROXJNBS, 


CONCORD,  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


Enlarged,  Refitted,  and  Refurnished. 

TOURISTS 


Wishing  to  make  a stop  on  the  way  to  or  from  the  Mountains  will 
find  accommodations  equal  to  any  in  New  England. 

Free  Carriages  to  and  from  the  Depot, 

JOSjV.  S.  Pfopfietoi^ 

17 


BR ATTLEBORO,  VT. 


H.  A.  KILBURN,  MANAGER. 


18 


BELLEVUE  HOUSE 


H.  BEAN,  - - - - Proprietor. 


The  Bellevue  was  constructed  last  Season,  and  opened  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  public  Dec.  ist,  1873.  It  has  all  Qf  the  modern  improvements,  lighted  by 
gas,  large  pleasant  rooms,  and  for  neatness  and  conveniences  is  unsurpassed  by 
any  house  in  the  State.  Being  situated  at  the  head  of  Lake  Memphremag(^, 
and  at  the  junction  of  the  S.  E.  Railway  with  the  'C.  & P.  R.  & M.  V.  R.  R., 
makes  it  a very  desirable  and  accessable  point  both  for  commercial  and  pleasure 
travellers. 

The  management,  grateful  to  the  public  for  the  favors  extended  to  him  for  the 
past  ten  years,  solicits  a continuance  of  their  patronage,  with  the  assurance  that 
the  Bellevue  shall  be  second  to  none  in  its  comforts  and  accommodations. 

ItATES  FEE  DA?:— For  Commercial  Travellers,  $2.00;  for  Pleasure  Visitors,  $2.50, 

Livery  furnished  for  guests  zft  reasonable  rates. 


Newport,  June  ist,  1875. 


19 


A/TAGOG  HOUSp 

IV J.  SHERBROOKE,  P.  Q. 


At  Newport,  Vt.,  the  traveller  can  take  the  elegant  Steamer 

“ LADY  OP  THE  LAKE,” 

CAPT.  FOGG, 

To  Magog,  and  from  that  point,  John  Norton’s  Stage  Line  to 
Sherbrooke,  where  they  will  find  the 


MAGOG  HOUSE, 


Under  the  management  of  Mr.  H.  S.  Helpburn,  one  of  the  best 
kept  Houses  in  Canada. 

Excellent  Fishing  in  the  Vicinity. 

The  far  famed  Lakes 

MASSAWIPPl  AND  MEGANTIC 

Are  but  a short  distance  from  the  House. 

The  Steamer,  the  Stage  Line,  and  the  House  are  under  the  con- 
trol of  men  who  from  long  experience  are  well  qualified  to  antici- 
pate and  satisfy  the  wishes  of  travellers. 

20 


Congress  hall 

JlLBANY,  JV.  T. 


Situated  on  Capitol  Hill,  adjoining  the  New  Capitol,  and  State 
Library;  fronting  on  the  City  Parks,  and  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  all  the  State 
Buildings. 


WITH  ALL  THE  MODERN  IMPROVEMENTS. 


Pleasure  seekers  will  find  this  the  most  pleasant  Hotel  to  stop 
at  in  the  City. 


ADAM  BLAKE,  Proprietor. 


FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL 


JOLLSTONE  1{;OUSE, 

FITCHBURG,  MASS. 


Wm.  F.  Day, 


Proprietor. 


Formerly  of  Fitchburg  Hotel  and 
American  House. 


Guests  conveyed  to  and  from  the  Deoots  free  of  charge. 

21 


BOSTOlSr 


DAILY  GLOBE, 

FOLDED,  PASTED  AND  CUT 

X,IKE  ^ BOOK. 

PRICE  THREE  CENTS. 


So^toii,  d,  ekl 


AN  D 


mi  uoumiHS  1 1 


Now  open  to  the  Fabyan  House,  White  Mountains,  and  to 
Northumberland  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 


T/ie  Shortest^  Quickest  and  Best  Route 

TO  THE 

White  and  Franconia'Monntains,  Montreal  and  Q,nebec. 

This  is  the  only  line  running  Day  Palace  Cars  and  Express  Trains 
between  Boston,  Providence,  Worcester,  New  London,  Ston- 
ington,  and  the  White  and  Franconia  Mountains.  This 
Line  passing  as  it  does  up  the  valley  of  the  Merrimac 
and  Connecticut  Rivers,  through  the-  Cities  of 
Lowell,  Lawrence,  Nashua,  Manchester,  and 
Concord,  and  along  the  borders  of  Lake 
Winncpesaukee  for  30  miles,  termi- 
nating at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Wash- 
ington, passing  River,  Lake,  and 
Mountain  scenery  unequalled  • in  New 
England,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
principal  Hotels  and  summer  Boarding  Houses 
in  the  Northern  part  of  the  State,  makes  it 
the  popular  travellers  route  for 
Tourists  visiting  the 

Lake  and  Mountain  Scenery  of  New  Hampshire. 

For  further  information  regarding  time,  connections,  tickets,  &c., 
see  the  principal  R.  R.  Guides,  or  apply  to 

No.  5 State  Street,  or  240  Washington  Street,  Boston, 

And  the  principal  Offices  on  the  Line. 

J.  A.  DODGE,  Sup’t,  Plymouth,  N.  H. 

23 


BRAY  & HAYES, 


99  and  101  Broad  Street,  Boston, 


|ii)il)ottets  Mid 


S.  Kae  & Co/s  Italian  Oils.  Keen’s  English  Mustard. 

French  Prunes,  Sardines,  Salad  Oil,  Olives,  Mushrooms,  Truffles, 
French  Peas,  Capers,  China  Preserved  Ginger,  &c..  True  Castile 
Soap,  White  and  Mottled,  Fine  Toilet  Soaps,  English  Pickles, 
Sauces  and  Catsups,  Worcestershire  Sauce,  Mustard  (tins  and  bot- 
tles), India  Soy,  and  Currie  Powder,  Potted  Ham,  Anchovies,  &c. 
Liebie’s  Food  for  Infants,  Groats  and  Barley  for  Infants,  London 
and  Dublin  Porter,  and  Scotch  Ale,  Scotch  Oatmeal  (lbs.  and  bbls), 
Cox’s  Gelatine  ; French  Gelatine,  Marmalades,  Jellies,  &c.,  Edin- 
burg Albert  Biscuit,  London  Biscuits  (tins  and  bbls.),  Liebig’s 
Extract  of  Beef,  Italian  Macaroni,  &c.,  Chamois  Skins,  &c. 


DAY  & MARTIN’S  LONDON  BLACZINS.  MAY’S  ENGLISH  WASHING  POWDER. 
CROSSE  & BLACKWELL’S  ENGLISH  PICKLES  AND  CONDIMENTS. 


1824. 


This  widely  known  paper  has  been  established  for  half  a century,  and  it  is  be- 
lieved it  has  maintained,  during  this  long  period,  a reputation  unsurpassed  by  any 
other  in  the  United  States.  Within  the  past  year,  and  since  its  enlargement  and 
the  introduction  of  several  new  and  special  features.  The  Courier  has  made  ex- 
traordinary advances  in  public  favor,  and  its  subscribers  and  readers  have  in- 
creased to  an  extent  which  its  proprietors  believe  altogether  unparalleled,  for  so 
short  a time,  in  the  records  of  a newspaper  enterprise  in  New  England.  The 
Courier  is  a paper  to  be  read,  and  its  proprietors  have  ample  means  of  knowing 
that  it  is  carefully  perused  by  great  numbers  of  all  classes  of  persons  throughout 
the  range  of  its  circulation,  and  is  much  sought  for  by  many  leading  minds  in  all 
departments  of  life. 

It  is  obvious  how  important  a medium  of  advertising  such  a paper  must  be,  a 
fact  of  which  we  exhibit  plenty  of  evidence  that  the  intelligent  public  is  conscious; 
and  taking  advantage  of  this  opportunity  to  thank  their  numerous  advertisers  for 
past  favors,  the  proprietors  of  The  Courier  would  respectfully  solicit  from  their 
friends  and  the  public  the  patronage  which  they  may  think  justly  due  to  this  long- 
established  and  well-known  jjaper.  The  favor  with  which  it  is  received  warrants 
us  in  every  effort  to  promote  its  circulation,  and  full  reliance  may  be  felt,  that  it 
will  maintain  its  character,  and  all  pains  will  constantly  be  taken  to  make  the 
paper  in  every  respect  useful  and  entertaining. 

TERMS— One  copy  by  mail,  one  year,  $2.75;  by  carrier,  one  year,  $3.00, 
Payment  to  be  made  invariably  In  advance, 


JOSEPH  F.TRAVjERS,  Publisher, 

299  Washington  Street,  BOSTON. 


21 


■^TV-A-TISUKTSS,  3Xr.  Y, 


OPEN  FOR  GUESTS  FROM  JUNE  1st  UNTIL  NOVEMBER  1st. 


BeaiitifiiUy  situated  on  a7i  eminence  overlook  mg  the  village  and 
Seneca  Lake,  and  bnt five  minutes'  walk  froin  the  won- 
derf'iil  world-reno'iv7ied  Watkins  Glen,  07ie  of  the  7nost 
ro7na7ttic  spots  07i  the  A7nerica7t  Co7itme7it. 


This  House  is  replete  with  every  comfort  and  luxury  demanded  by  the  modern 
tourist,  and  will  accommodate  150  guests.  It  challenges  comparison  with  any 
summer  resort  hotel  in  the  country — large  rooms,  high  ceilings  and  thorough  ven- 
tilation— pure  spring  water  and  gas  throughout — hot  and  cold  baths — telegraph 
office  in  the  house — extensive  grounds  with  groves  and  evergreen  forest  trees, 
and  scenic  attractions  unsurpassed  in  the  country. 


J.  M,  BETTMAN,  Manager. 


W.  X.  I»II)R\IA.]VCK. 


